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      08-18-2018, 05:58 PM   #111
Saintjah
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Rear Diff fluid

Driftlo, I have recently picked up a 2016 M2... I noticed you recommended the 75w140 Castrol Syntrax in alot of the M3 variants. Given mines also a clutch style lsd (im guessing) would the castrol syntrax 75w140 be optimal when I do a fluid change in the rear diff?

Was also considering the Motul 75/140 but got lost in the details of FM. Guess that would just be up to driver preference with noise levels?
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      08-18-2018, 06:18 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintjah View Post
Driftlo, I have recently picked up a 2016 M2... I noticed you recommended the 75w140 Castrol Syntrax in alot of the M3 variants. Given mines also a clutch style lsd (im guessing) would the castrol syntrax 75w140 be optimal when I do a fluid change in the rear diff?

Was also considering the Motul 75/140 but got lost in the details of FM. Guess that would just be up to driver preference with noise levels?

Friction modifier is there to change the transition between locked and open. If it's a clutch-type LSD, you need FM. The question of "how much" is up for debate. I defer to the OEMs since they tune the car to handle a certain way.

If you think you know the car well enough to adjust it to your tastes, then buy a fluid with no FM and add it in small doses until you get the behavior you want. This is going to be a time-consuming process.


Here's a discussion on it from two years ago that I started on Bob Is The Oil Guy:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum.../against_FM_in

This post by 440Magnum says it best:

I wouldn't say that it "reduces locking." It makes the jump between the static (holding) and static (slipping) coefficients of friction smaller, so you don't get into a vicious grab/release/grab/release cycle that results in chatter. It shouldn't significantly reduce the actual holding capacity of the LSD clutches enough to really matter, and any loss is more than offset by a more controlled onset of locking.
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      08-22-2018, 10:46 AM   #113
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If it helps anyone (might have missed if it was posted), but I purchased this allen key and then had about an inch piece cut off of it. I inserted it into the drain and fill plugs and then put a 14mm ratcheting wrench over the end that stuck out.

I couldn't ever find a 14mm hex socket that was short enough to fit in there

https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-12284...14mm+allen+key
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      08-22-2018, 02:16 PM   #114
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14MM STUBBY DRAIN PLUG SOCKET 3/8 DRIVE
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      08-22-2018, 03:59 PM   #115
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hey would ya look at that
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      08-24-2018, 10:15 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSteve5036 View Post
hey would ya look at that
Yep, your solution is ingenious though
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      08-24-2018, 09:40 PM   #117
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For those who would like a cheap, complete set of allen keys....I bought these when performing the service and had no issues.

https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piec...set-67880.html
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      08-25-2018, 09:35 AM   #118
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Steps 7 and 8 have me a little confused. Why am I lowering then raising the car with the fill plug out?

Wouldn't I just fill as much fluid as possible (some overflows out) then put the fill plug in and be done?
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      08-26-2018, 08:26 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmy23 View Post
Steps 7 and 8 have me a little confused. Why am I lowering then raising the car with the fill plug out?

Wouldn't I just fill as much fluid as possible (some overflows out) then put the fill plug in and be done?
Yeah those steps are a little misguided. You can raise up the driver's side of the car higher than the passenger side to get a little extra of the old fluid out because the drain hole isn't completely flush with the bottom of the housing, but it's unnecessary when filling back up because the max fill should just be up to the fill hole.
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      10-21-2018, 12:38 PM   #120
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2011 BMW 335d  [3.75]
Thank for this post.

The 500ml Castrol MBZ spec bottles work great. No oil pump needed. They fit right up in there and you can walk away while they drain.
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