Killswitch Install help needed

[turbo_joe]

I need to install a kill switch on my race car for this season and I am having ZERO luck finding wiring diagrams online.

Who here has already done this? I want to install a cartek shut off system

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[warp10]

I have the cartek kill switch in my car. I’ll see if I can get a good pic of it installed.

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by warp10

I have the cartek kill switch in my car. I’ll see if I can get a good pic of it installed.

Thanks, I sent you a DM

[ninekrpm]

Can you post a few pics

[GtiGyver]

What do you guys attach it to?
In series with:
The clutch pedal depression switch?
Fuel pump fuse?

[ninekrpm]

I believe it goes to fuel and ignition, but need confirmation and and exact wire identifiers

[turbo_joe]

I'm going to try and wire into the fuse for the injectors, seems like the simplest solution so far.

[ninekrpm]

keep me posted, thanks...

[ninekrpm]

Any updates?

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by ninekrpm

Any updates?

Wiring it up this coming weekend, will report back when done

[ninekrpm]

Originally Posted by turbo_joe

Wiring it up this coming weekend, will report back when done

thanks...appreciate your help

[mikentosh]

Plan to install my Cartek kill switch soon. Any updates on this would be appreciated!

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by mikentosh

Plan to install my Cartek kill switch soon. Any updates on this would be appreciated!

I ditched it, we tried a ton of different methods to wire it up and it either wouldnt let the car start, or it wouldnt kill the car while in gear.

Ended up doing a switched electronic kill switch. Relocated the oem distribution block (replaced with a different style) and the new switch cuts the power right from the battery. Works perfect every time and way less headache to install.

[mikentosh]

Originally Posted by turbo_joe

I ditched it, we tried a ton of different methods to wire it up and it either wouldnt let the car start, or it wouldnt kill the car while in gear.

Ended up doing a switched electronic kill switch. Relocated the oem distribution block (replaced with a different style) and the new switch cuts the power right from the battery. Works perfect every time and way less headache to install.

Okay interesting! I couldn't see a good way to kill ignition either, but have now been thinking about just cutting the fuel pump module feed instead. Would definitely be easier if I fully swap to an aftermarket distribution block though.

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by mikentosh

Okay interesting! I couldn't see a good way to kill ignition either, but have now been thinking about just cutting the fuel pump module feed instead. Would definitely be easier if I fully swap to an aftermarket distribution block though.

We tried this as well, almost anything that is vital enough to kill the car would either cause issues with how the car ran (ie. it wont even start) or it just wont kill the car. The oem PDM (fuse block) will redistribute power to keep vitals alive when you cut power. We cut power to the injectors and ignition, the car would just keep running after stumbling for a second.

This also seems to only be an issue on DCT cars. As the cartek would work if the car was just started and never shifter out of "park". But once it went into gear the car would find a way to keep itself running. I had a BMW tech at the track trying to help me rewire it and had all the oem wiring diagrams. Never had any luck making it work.

IMO, its not worth the headache and way easier to just do a traditional kill switch.

I am running this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30204

Everything that normally comes off the oem distribution block is fed off the kill switch, battery feeds the kill switch. Then the alternator wire goes direct to the battery as well. I ended up using two "remote" switches wired in line with each other. The kill switch operates off grounding it through a switch. So either of my switches when flipped off cut the ground to the kill switch making it turn off and the car dies. I have one switch within my reach and a second just inside the passenger window in the dash.

[mikentosh]

Originally Posted by turbo_joe

We tried this as well, almost anything that is vital enough to kill the car would either cause issues with how the car ran (ie. it wont even start) or it just wont kill the car. The oem PDM (fuse block) will redistribute power to keep vitals alive when you cut power. We cut power to the injectors and ignition, the car would just keep running after stumbling for a second.

This also seems to only be an issue on DCT cars. As the cartek would work if the car was just started and never shifter out of "park". But once it went into gear the car would find a way to keep itself running. I had a BMW tech at the track trying to help me rewire it and had all the oem wiring diagrams. Never had any luck making it work.

IMO, its not worth the headache and way easier to just do a traditional kill switch.

I am running this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30204

Everything that normally comes off the oem distribution block is fed off the kill switch, battery feeds the kill switch. Then the alternator wire goes direct to the battery as well. I ended up using two "remote" switches wired in line with each other. The kill switch operates off grounding it through a switch. So either of my switches when flipped off cut the ground to the kill switch making it turn off and the car dies. I have one switch within my reach and a second just inside the passenger window in the dash.

Oh that is a nice solution. Guess you aren't having any issues with 250amp max? Have you seen any issues with the battery IBS system (if you are still running it)?

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by mikentosh

Oh that is a nice solution. Guess you aren't having any issues with 250amp max? Have you seen any issues with the battery IBS system (if you are still running it)?

I am still using the OEM ground but the IBS is not even wired up anymore. No issues with the 250amp

[DRLane]

“The new Battery Isolator XR also features a 0.5 sec time delay between transmitting the engine kill signal and disconnecting the battery allowing ECUs time to perform a shutdown sequence before electrical power is lost.”

I think that’s the strongest value to running this vs hard disco of the battery.

It’s a complicated install and requires some work, but it’s definitely possible on our chassis. I believe dogbone has it installed in his e90.

[ninekrpm]

Please see below, it can be definitely be daunting to figure out, but straight forward once you do…this is for the F80, but should be applicable to the E9x M cars…it took me a while to get the diagram (source is confidential). The method uses the fuel pump signal to kill the ignition.

I added 2 switches across the car…