Track forum general chit chat.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

Core4 got back to me on Monday and was able to add deez nuts to the order.

Excellent!

[slicer]

Originally Posted by e36clubracer

Those running the Core4 hubs are you using the 12 or 14mm studs?

See my pics on earlier post. F8x hubs with M14. Best of all worlds. Lighter and stronger(est).

[M43S7RO]

I figure if you're going through the trouble, get the stronger of the two = 14mm. Be mindful that if you have aftermarket brakes, you may need to bore out the rotor hats to accommodate the 14mm studs.

Originally Posted by e36clubracer

Those running the Core4 hubs are you using the 12 or 14mm studs?

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by dparm

Or just do what's free: minor tire pressure adjustment.

So is everything I mentioned except the alignment (changing rear toe) for the average person.

Tire pressures are definitely another options/tool you can use. Assuming you can lower the rear tire pressure to get more grip, then yes it's an option. If you're already to a minimum tire pressure to prevent rolling over, or optimal tire temps, then lowering rear pressure for more grip isn't an option - that's where other things like I listed can be used. You wouldn't want to raise the front tire pressure as you don't want to take grip away from the front, you just want to increase rear grip.

You want to work on the end that has the issue. I believe the OP only has a front sway bar (might be mixing him up with someone else though) so I listed stiffening the front bar as he doesn't have a rear bar to soften.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by //steve\\

Hate to say so but talking more theory at this point. I'm still pretty new to the car but doesn't mean I can't do some research and then try to stack the deck in my favor. And tire size isn't everything to it either because I know say a 275 100tw tire will certainly provide more grip than say a 295 ps4s or something in that similar summer tire tier.

Car will always stay NA so won't ever see but so much more power than stock.

I know it's a vague question but I'll take any info I can get. I'll also say it will likely never be a track only car. Always needs to stay streetable for nice weather.

To stay along the lines of this understeer bias conversation, I've did a bunch of testing on a specifically setup small AutoX course last year thats about 25 seconds on avg. and among friends we have tons of data logged on multiple different cars. The course is setup the same every time (we had the course permanently spray painted on the lot) and has little room for driver error so it's purely just testing the car and setup.

Best thing I found for the e9x M3 in terms of rear grip and overall handling (and the fastest lap time on the test course) that we did last time we had access to the testing site (sadly its no longer) was increase the rear track width with 10mm spacers on each side to effectively give a pseudo-staggered setup.

At the time the car was on 18x10 square wheels with 285/30 Re71r's. Stock swaybars, stock weight, only KW Clubsports with the shocks tuned before and after adding the spacers to compare. It would be hard for me to dig up the data on it now since its been almost year, but I remember taking very specific notes on the fact that the "staggered" setup improved the car significantly.

I have staggered and square setups now and use both, but really like the staggered setups better. I really only use the square ones due to cost savings and tire availability mainly. Prime example would be that I have access to cheap used slicks and the sizes they come in are best on 18x10 square.
My favorite combo right now on these however is 18x10.5 front and 18x11 rear.

[Shmelgy]

Originally Posted by kayha12

Ah yeah, finished photo of the bumper spats by the way! Ended up using the same material I used for the splitter end plates

What's the distance at the widest point? PM me if you'd be interested in making a set for me and how much you'd want. Thanks!

[Grillpt]

Originally Posted by kayha12

So I didn't try... which I fully regret. I've only heard of bad stories of people launching out of it improperly or splitters/lips getting destroyed so I didn't want to chance it... especially first time out at the track. I do want to give it a shot next time.

Looking at data, my friend ran a 1:41 in his cayman carrying a measly consistent 45 mph in the carousel.. he actually gained +.8 seconds on me in that that turn alone. Since I ended up bleeding down to about 30-ish mph. We had a Miata who ran 1:36.0 carry 55 mph in the carousel. I imagine this will be the next step to gaining easy time at that track!

Sorry to bring this back, been busy with work..

I had to go to my YouTube to find it, but in 2013 I did a 41.8 in my Evo. Probably running Z1 or Z2 star specs if I had to guess..

There's definitely time to gain by using the carousel, you just have to mentally block out the bad scraping sounds. Lol
I've never gone in so hard that it spit me out, u won't either.. you'd just go up top if you thought u were too hot getting in

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by Kelse92

To stay along the lines of this understeer bias conversation, I've did a bunch of testing on a specifically setup small AutoX course last year thats about 25 seconds on avg. and among friends we have tons of data logged on multiple different cars. The course is setup the same every time (we had the course permanently spray painted on the lot) and has little room for driver error so it's purely just testing the car and setup.

Best thing I found for the e9x M3 in terms of rear grip and overall handling (and the fastest lap time on the test course) that we did last time we had access to the testing site (sadly its no longer) was increase the rear track width with 10mm spacers on each side to effectively give a pseudo-staggered setup.

At the time the car was on 18x10 square wheels with 285/30 Re71r's. Stock swaybars, stock weight, only KW Clubsports with the shocks tuned before and after adding the spacers to compare. It would be hard for me to dig up the data on it now since its been almost year, but I remember taking very specific notes on the fact that the "staggered" setup improved the car significantly.

I have staggered and square setups now and use both, but really like the staggered setups better. I really only use the square ones due to cost savings and tire availability mainly. Prime example would be that I have access to cheap used slicks and the sizes they come in are best on 18x10 square.
My favorite combo right now on these however is 18x10.5 front and 18x11 rear.

This has been my experience as well. Tune a little more track width back into the rear with a square setup, and it's pretty nice. Square with no spacers is alittle jumpy mid-corner for me. My car is 99% street driven. I use square ecause I want to be able to rotate, and found a nice happy medium between running staggered 275/295 and killing tires prematurely by using a small rear spacer.

I am sure with track people, the square setup A) pays a lot of dividends in tire life, B) doesn't limit a wide front setup because they're willing to do what's necessary ot get it to fit body/alignment wise and C) if going faster is the goal, it's dumb to not have aero and it's so much easier to add rear downforce than front that a rear tire being "undersized" isn't such a big deal from an overall performance standpoint so long as you can keep enough compliance in the rearend to not suck in slow corners

So yeah, anyway. There's square, and then there's square with an asterisk, I'm an asterisk guy

[Kelse92]

Same here. 18x10 square with a spacer in the rear is my go-to track setup right now since I have access to low-cost Pirelli scrubs locally that fit that wheel size perfectly.

[//steve\\]

Any need adjustable front endlinks? I have a perfectly good set of SPL links that are no good to me because the MCS requires shorter ones.

Seemed like BW was the goto for these, but they are real meh in comparison. Joints on the BW are super loose, no hex or flat spot on the center to hold still with. Overall disappointed.

[VicS5]

The spot for the wrench to hold the threaded section on the BW endlinks is at the base of the threads, between the sway bar and Heim joint. I have the same BW endlink setup for my MCS dampers. 13 or 14 mm thin walled wrench, as I recall. Unless they've changed them...

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by VicS5

The spot for the wrench to hold the threaded section on the BW endlinks is at the base of the threads, between the sway bar and Heim joint. I have the same BW endlink setup for my MCS dampers. 13 or 14 mm thin walled wrench, as I recall. Unless they've changed them...

Mine look exactly like this except they do have a small knurled section in the middle (but it's still round). Maybe I want the lock nut to be much tighter than it needs to be but just about every other option out there has some kind of flat spot/hex body somewhere along the center piece.

[VicS5]

Ahh... I thought you were referring to the nuts attaching to the sway bar. For setting the shaft length, I put a wrench on the flat part of the Heim holding the bearing. If the black central shaft still spun, another wrench on the lock nut on the other end helped. It took 3 hands. If you're concerned it's not tight enough, mark the threads so you can see if it loosens.

[Ximian]

For the Slon pan install, are you supposed to be filling the gap where it looks like a gasket would go with Loctite 574?

I'm planning on filling it in, tightening the screws, then holding it in place with a jack and pad for a day to set/cure. Sounds about right?

[kyippee]

Just picked my car up from the following and have a follow-up appointment as we found a broken bearing in my GC race camber plates. (temp fix in place for now)

What's surprising to me is that the car seems more comfortable (less floaty, but not twitchy at all, slightly more feeling on bumps) with 700/1000 rates now than 550/800 before. Is this normal? They're paired with JRZ NR 1-way dampers at 8 out of 21 clicks for street.

Changed from 550/800 to 700/1000 springs (divorced rear)
Bimmerworld solid rear subframe mounts
Powerflex purple diff mount (front & rear positions)
Revshift poly (black / OEM+) transmission mounts
14 sets of Powerflex purple bushings for the rear end
Replaced driveshaft giubo
Replaced OE muffler hangers, added Revshift hanger inserts
Replaced rear sway bar brackets and bushings
Flushed diff fluid

[rhyary]

Has any one replaced their trailing arms?
I heard that the reason the trailing arms are weak stamped steel is because you want them to fold and break to protect the expensive parts.
.

[//steve\\]

^ I've been curious about the same and those were the same I was considering.

That said, new OE ones are ~$50 a piece so it might be best to just check them after some time and see if they are still true. I imagine if they fatigue it will be very slowly over time.

[dparm]

Does SPL make any? Their shit is just so good, it would take a lot for me to order something else.

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by dparm

Does SPL make any? Their shit is just so good, it would take a lot for me to order something else.

They don't. Not this one part. Only ones I've found are the Revshift and ECS makes one too but it doesn't look as nice IMO.

[kyippee]

I had my rear trailing arms replaced with the ECS part. Took up my friend's recommendation; he said he wouldn't normally buy an ECS-designed part, but this specific one is o.k.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

Go away

You don't track anymore

I'll come back when you can keep up. So like in 20 years? Lolol

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by rhyary

I can go up to 1200 psi
So 50% is 600 psi

600 psi is A LOT of brakes coming into the apex.

Yeah it is. I guess it's subjective to feel to op. I'd say it's more like 20-10%.