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      01-08-2018, 05:19 PM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
I suppose it depends on how you articulate it.
My guess is that after the second return or so, they'll "articulate" it in whatever manner they need to avoid replacing the part.
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      01-08-2018, 07:29 PM   #200
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Originally Posted by M3 Number 86 View Post
Drill and ziptie. I was looking at the inside of mine and it looks like fiberglass layup. I might add a couple layers on top to make it more sturdy.
It's not fiberglass... The inside layer is some sort of plastic layer over cardboard covered with felt. I was so sick of burning through the leading edge that I wrapped mine (a new set) with several layers kevlar and carbon fiber, then I stripped the plastic out and filled the inside with an inch of epoxy resin. Each of the side undertrays weights about 1.5 lbs, but they are bullet proof. I thought about creating a mold off the finished product, but was so sick of working with the resin that I decided against it.

BTW, the felt/cardboard will soak up a fair amount of resin (even if you do not laminate them with carbon) and help the mounting points from from tearing.
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      01-08-2018, 07:58 PM   #201
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macdude357 do you have a pic of the torn part?
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      01-08-2018, 08:54 PM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Number 86 View Post
Drill and ziptie. I was looking at the inside of mine and it looks like fiberglass layup. I might add a couple layers on top to make it more sturdy.
It's not fiberglass... The inside layer is some sort of plastic layer over cardboard covered with felt. I was so sick of burning through the leading edge that I wrapped mine (a new set) with several layers kevlar and carbon fiber, then I stripped the plastic out and filled the inside with an inch of epoxy resin. Each of the side undertrays weights about 1.5 lbs, but they are bullet proof. I thought about creating a mold off the finished product, but was so sick of working with the resin that I decided against it.

BTW, the felt/cardboard will soak up a fair amount of resin (even if you do not laminate them with carbon) and help the mounting points from from tearing.
Hmm. I might try that too. Thanks
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      01-08-2018, 08:57 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Number 86 View Post
Drill and ziptie. I was looking at the inside of mine and it looks like fiberglass layup. I might add a couple layers on top to make it more sturdy.
It's not fiberglass... The inside layer is some sort of plastic layer over cardboard covered with felt. I was so sick of burning through the leading edge that I wrapped mine (a new set) with several layers kevlar and carbon fiber, then I stripped the plastic out and filled the inside with an inch of epoxy resin. Each of the side undertrays weights about 1.5 lbs, but they are bullet proof. I thought about creating a mold off the finished product, but was so sick of working with the resin that I decided against it.

BTW, the felt/cardboard will soak up a fair amount of resin (even if you do not laminate them with carbon) and help the mounting points from from tearing.
Wait do I can just layup some resin with no material? Can probably just put one layer of 8 gauge glass?
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      01-08-2018, 09:02 PM   #204
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They typically tear at the hole where the metal clip/bolt attaches to the edge of the undertray. I swear BMW changed the size of clips. I could not thread the original bolts into the clips that were attached to the new undertrays that I ordered from BMW.
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      01-08-2018, 09:12 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Number 86 View Post
Wait do I can just layup some resin with no material? Can probably just put one layer of 8 gauge glass?
The felt soaks up a ton of resin, so it definately adds strength. You would obviously be better off with some glass. A good middle ground would be to add a couple strips of glass around the edge where the mounting holes are located. You would just need to cut off the excess and drill out the holes once cured. The edge is hidden by the bumper cover. BTW, I used thin laminating epoxy which is pretty much compatible with most plastics. I don't know how polyester resin would affect the felt. Sometimes polyester resin doesn't play nice with certain types of plastics and foam.

Last edited by Pig Farmer; 01-08-2018 at 09:17 PM.. Reason: I can't spell.
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      01-08-2018, 09:18 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
They typically tear at the hole where the metal clip/bolt attaches to the edge of the undertray. I swear BMW changed the size of clips. I could not thread the original bolts into the clips that were attached to the new undertrays that I ordered from BMW.
Yes. Something changed with the clips. I recently replaced my entire felt and used some other pieces (see pic with part number).

What I was having trouble with was getting the side felt center screw in... it goes through the fender liner and mates the side felt piece to the center felt piece. I had to use a right angled pick tool to pull the pieces down to get them all to line up to start the screw. 1,000% easier to do front felt work with the front wheels off. I'm getting decently good at it.
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      01-08-2018, 09:50 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Number 86 View Post
Wait do I can just layup some resin with no material? Can probably just put one layer of 8 gauge glass?
The felt soaks up a ton of resin, so it definately adds strength. You would obviously be better off with some glass. A good middle ground would be to add a couple strips of glass around the edge where the mounting holes are located. You would just need to cut off the excess and drill out the holes once cured. The edge is hidden by the bumper cover. BTW, I used thin laminating epoxy which is pretty much compatible with most plastics. I don't know how polyester resin would affect the felt. Sometimes polyester resin doesn't play nice with certain types of plastics and foam.
The resin I use is even compatible with the pink panther foam so I think it'll work. Got it from some boating company. I'll try soon
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      01-08-2018, 09:51 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdude357 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
I suppose it depends on how you articulate it.
My guess is that after the second return or so, they'll "articulate" it in whatever manner they need to avoid replacing the part.
They even replace rotors and pads. It must be some laundry machine lol
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      01-09-2018, 10:21 AM   #209
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macdude357 do you have a pic of the torn part?
No, I was still able to mount it, it's just missing one screw. I think I'll try the zip tie thing to make it more secure for now.
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      01-10-2018, 02:54 PM   #210
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i saw something online the other day that reminded me of here. they have some sort of skid plates for these felt things lol.

can we get back to aero talk? ha
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      02-11-2018, 09:04 AM   #211
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Has anyone run these canards thinking about making the purchase?
http://rhrperf.com/e92-canards/#product-tab-description
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      02-11-2018, 11:26 AM   #212
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Has anyone run these canards thinking about making the purchase?
http://rhrperf.com/e92-canards/#product-tab-description
I have AJ Hartman canards and splitter on my E46 M3. Very happy.
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      02-11-2018, 08:04 PM   #213
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Quote:
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Has anyone run these canards thinking about making the purchase?
http://rhrperf.com/e92-canards/#product-tab-description
i believe dogbone is running those with some added structural supports tieing them into the lower splitter.
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      02-11-2018, 08:09 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by XCUSE_M3 View Post
Has anyone run these canards thinking about making the purchase?
http://rhrperf.com/e92-canards/#product-tab-description
i believe dogbone is running those with some added structural supports tieing them into the lower splitter.
Alright. Good to know I'm currently running just a gt4 front splitter. Been looking into adding more aero also been thinking about adding a apr front splitter on the gt4.
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      02-11-2018, 08:23 PM   #215
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I'll be putting these apr spats on soon. Supposed to create downforce by directing air away from the wheels/tires. They mount on the outside.
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      02-12-2018, 12:35 AM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XCUSE_M3 View Post
Alright. Good to know I'm currently running just a gt4 front splitter. Been looking into adding more aero also been thinking about adding a apr front splitter on the gt4.
I like the AJ Hartmann canards.

Just so you know, the carbon is only finished on one side. It's just rough carbon on the other side. (My friend found a spray that that can finish it pretty easily.)

I had Racewerkz build the strap between the canards down to the splitter to make them more solid.

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      02-12-2018, 04:26 AM   #217
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check out this bad boy... like a gt4 lip, but sticks out more.
http://www.raceparts.biz/karbonius-f...-rtrgf172.html
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      02-12-2018, 10:06 AM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
I like the AJ Hartmann canards.

Just so you know, the carbon is only finished on one side. It's just rough carbon on the other side. (My friend found a spray that that can finish it pretty easily.)

I had Racewerkz build the strap between the canards down to the splitter to make them more solid.

Dogone, are you running the ARC-8? Looks like you have the AP Racing 9668 or 9660, I was told the 9668 may not fit the ARC 8. Can you confirm?

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      02-12-2018, 10:24 AM   #219
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Originally Posted by imolam3 View Post
Dogone, are you running the ARC-8? Looks like you have the AP Racing 9668 or 9660, I was told the 9668 may not fit the ARC 8. Can you confirm?

TIA
Yes, what you see in the picture is an Apex ARC-8 10.5" ET27 rim with an Essex 9668 kit (25mm version). It fits without issue. I do run a 3mm spacer because of the tire width, not brake clearance.

I also have some Apex ARC-8 9.5" ET22 rims and they fit fine too over the 9668. The caliper is closer to the spokes, but I've been told 2-3mm clearance is fine and you have that. Since I always have the 3mm spacer in for the fat tires, I would just leave it on there for the 9.5" as well. All good.

There was some conversation about this general topic on my build thread. I talked about some of my initial impressions of the 9668 kit since I just got it. A couple people asked some questions, and Jeff Ritter from Essex even joined in. It starts on this page: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...158445&page=27

And I'll copy and paste what I said before in my thread: there's no need to guess if the Essex kit will fit. Print the templates that Essex has on their site. They are VERY helpful, and gave me no surprises when I mounted my wheels.

Here's the template for the Essex Radi-Cal 25mm front kit: https://www.essexparts.com/storage/w...l_template.pdf

Here's the template for the Essex Radi-Cal 18mm front kit: https://www.essexparts.com/storage/w...l_template.pdf

Make sure your printer prints at 100% size.
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      02-12-2018, 06:42 PM   #220
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Dogbone, appreciate your help, if that's the case I will use my existing ARC-8s 18x9.5 ET used on my e46 M3 for the M2. Probably get 3mm spacers for the front just to be safe.

Looks like you're running the APR front splitter? I had one of those, it flexed and is not as sturdy as the Bimmerworld or Lang Racing splitter. I have a brand new Lang Racing kevlar front splitter if you're interested.

Here are some shots of my car, the used splitter is at the end.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=595785
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