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      07-20-2018, 02:38 PM   #6271
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I also had fall line monoballs, but am currently trying to sell them in favor of going for the SPL fully converted arms

http://www.splparts.com/products/spl...x-e8x-f8x.html
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      07-20-2018, 10:01 PM   #6272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Update: the dealer's Corvette tech who has done all the work on my car looked at the tires and said the wear looks appropriate/consistent with track usage. He seemed okay with the 8 hour lifespan given the car's performance potential and weight/size. He's a pretty no-BS guy so I don't think he was saying that just to avoid doing more work or whatever. He didn't have any specific comments on the flaking/peeling.

I drove 10 minutes to Fall-Line for a second opinion. Although they were busy fixing actual race cars, some eyebrows were raised as soon as I started mentioning the GM "competitive driving" alignment spec, especially with regards to toe. I think I'm going to have them replace the two front tires and realign it to something they feel is appropriate. They won't have the tool to adjust caster but I'm not that worried since it's still basically within spec and doesn't hugely contribute to tire wear (though it can slightly impact camber).


If this doesn't work, it might just be time to bite the bullet and get HREs or Forgelines. The popular setup is 18x11 front and 18x12.5 rears, with Rival S tires in 315/30R18 + 335/30R18. Hoosiers are also available in this size.
Can you get your street tires shaved before running them on track? I'm wondering if you got some tread squirm that overheated the blocks and tore them early on and they finally let go. Wild ass guess but I've torn chunks from full tread depth RA-1s before (PIR banking did them in I think).

Happy to hear about your personal best! Well done.
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      07-20-2018, 11:53 PM   #6273
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Can you get your street tires shaved before running them on track? I'm wondering if you got some tread squirm that overheated the blocks and tore them early on and they finally let go. Wild ass guess but I've torn chunks from full tread depth RA-1s before (PIR banking did them in I think).

Happy to hear about your personal best! Well done.

Tire Rack can shave tires, yes.

The Corvette-specific PSS are shallower than normal ones for that very reason: reducing tread squirm. They're only like 7.2/32" when new versus the typical 9/32".
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      07-21-2018, 01:20 PM   #6274
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Would you guys buy a slightly used tire with this weird gouge in it? No penetration, looks like he maybe ran over something.
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      07-21-2018, 09:43 PM   #6275
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My Pirelli DH take offs had something similar. Gonna send it on 'em. If I don't post in the next month, you'll know why.
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      07-21-2018, 09:47 PM   #6276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Would you guys buy a slightly used tire with this weird gouge in it? No penetration, looks like he maybe ran over something.
Looks like a screw was in it, and removed. Might not have gone through. I've had that before... Likely fine IMO since it looks shallow
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      07-21-2018, 11:24 PM   #6277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3MPH1S View Post
I also had fall line monoballs, but am currently trying to sell them in favor of going for the SPL fully converted arms

http://www.splparts.com/products/spl...x-e8x-f8x.html
What advantage do these offer over the standard arm?

Looking to do the following in one swoop:
Rear solid subframe mounts
Adjustable Rear toe links
2 way suspension
Hotchkis sway bars and adjustable endlinks (corner balancing).
monoballs (leaning towards BW or SPL FKS)

Any other considerations while in there?
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      07-22-2018, 01:20 AM   #6278
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check this thing out... m24 makes a dipstick kit for our cars. it simply replaces the oil level sensor. all you have to do is unbolt the sensor, bolt this thing on, and buy an oem dipstick. i'm not entirely sure what holds the top of the dipstick in place though...
https://www.motorsport24.de/mechanis...uer-s65-motor/
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      07-22-2018, 01:28 PM   #6279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
check this thing out... m24 makes a dipstick kit for our cars. it simply replaces the oil level sensor. all you have to do is unbolt the sensor, bolt this thing on, and buy an oem dipstick. i'm not entirely sure what holds the top of the dipstick in place though...
https://www.motorsport24.de/mechanis...uer-s65-motor/

Its own tension. It might flop around a little bit. I suppose you could fab up an extension tube if that worries you.
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      07-22-2018, 05:40 PM   #6280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
check this thing out... m24 makes a dipstick kit for our cars. it simply replaces the oil level sensor. all you have to do is unbolt the sensor, bolt this thing on, and buy an oem dipstick. i'm not entirely sure what holds the top of the dipstick in place though...
https://www.motorsport24.de/mechanis...uer-s65-motor/
That's kind of a stupid product. Where do you get oil temps from? You'll have to install an external temp sender and you lose the electronic notification while the engine is operating that your oil is low. The dipstick is a redundancy to simply check level at a stop.

The BW solution is far superior.
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      07-22-2018, 06:02 PM   #6281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
check this thing out... m24 makes a dipstick kit for our cars. it simply replaces the oil level sensor. all you have to do is unbolt the sensor, bolt this thing on, and buy an oem dipstick. i'm not entirely sure what holds the top of the dipstick in place though...
https://www.motorsport24.de/mechanis...uer-s65-motor/
That's kind of a stupid product. Where do you get oil temps from? You'll have to install an external temp sender and you lose the electronic notification while the engine is operating that your oil is low. The dipstick is a redundancy to simply check level at a stop.

The BW solution is far superior.
It will not work with stock ecu. I have asked.

Problem with BW solution is it depends on where you install it in the pan on what reading you will get. But yes still a double check.
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      07-22-2018, 06:06 PM   #6282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
check this thing out... m24 makes a dipstick kit for our cars. it simply replaces the oil level sensor. all you have to do is unbolt the sensor, bolt this thing on, and buy an oem dipstick. i'm not entirely sure what holds the top of the dipstick in place though...
https://www.motorsport24.de/mechanis...uer-s65-motor/
That's kind of a stupid product. Where do you get oil temps from? You'll have to install an external temp sender and you lose the electronic notification while the engine is operating that your oil is low. The dipstick is a redundancy to simply check level at a stop.

The BW solution is far superior.
Damn, I didn't think of that.
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      07-23-2018, 06:31 AM   #6283
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Ran a fresh set of Hoosier R7's this weekend at summit point. Never going back to anything else. Grip is unreal once you dial in the right pressure
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      07-23-2018, 06:57 AM   #6284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty_miller View Post
Ran a fresh set of Hoosier R7's this weekend at summit point. Never going back to anything else. Grip is unreal once you dial in the right pressure
What hot pressures did you prefer?
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      07-23-2018, 07:43 AM   #6285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty_miller View Post
Ran a fresh set of Hoosier R7's this weekend at summit point. Never going back to anything else. Grip is unreal once you dial in the right pressure
They are magical. I shoot for 32-35 hot.
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      07-23-2018, 08:20 AM   #6286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmx View Post
What advantage do these offer over the standard arm?

Looking to do the following in one swoop:
Rear solid subframe mounts
Adjustable Rear toe links
2 way suspension
Hotchkis sway bars and adjustable endlinks (corner balancing).
monoballs (leaning towards BW or SPL FKS)

Any other considerations while in there?
No huge advantages, mainly just weight savings and a little bit better ball joint on the other end. A more advanced feature is that they allow for caster adjustment and I'm curious to test and play with that.

If you're doing your rear subframe mounts, I would go ahead and do diff mounts as well because a)you already have your subframe off, and b)it will play nicely with the subframe mounts. I would just go for poly.

And depending on how many miles are on the car, you should consider replacing the diff bolts as well as a preventative maintenance. They are cheap anyway.
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      07-23-2018, 09:13 AM   #6287
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Allegedly, the Fancy Wide rear diffuser for the E92 M3 may be available sometime week.
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      07-23-2018, 09:47 AM   #6288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMoose View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty_miller View Post
Ran a fresh set of Hoosier R7's this weekend at summit point. Never going back to anything else. Grip is unreal once you dial in the right pressure
They are magical. I shoot for 32-35 hot.
I shot yesterday for 35-37 hot. Going to NJMP in like 2 weeks. I'll have to try the 32-35 mark and see how they do
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      07-23-2018, 01:38 PM   #6289
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How often is everyone replacing spark plugs? I think I'll be going down to a 10-15k mile interval. The old plugs which have maybe 25k miles on them don't look fouled or damaged, but the engine is so much smoother now.
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      07-23-2018, 01:44 PM   #6290
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How often is everyone replacing spark plugs? I think I'll be going down to a 10-15k mile interval. The old plugs which have maybe 25k miles on them don't look fouled or damaged, but the engine is so much smoother now.
which spark plugs did you get? my new to me m3 has 26k, i'm sure it'll be helpful to do the job... Not looking forward to it though.
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      07-23-2018, 02:02 PM   #6291
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How often is everyone replacing spark plugs? I think I'll be going down to a 10-15k mile interval. The old plugs which have maybe 25k miles on them don't look fouled or damaged, but the engine is so much smoother now.
I see no reason to stray from the OEM interval of 37k which is already hilariously short for a platinum plug.

Stop relying on the butt dyno. If you want objective information, look for misfires in the ECU and pull the plugs to check the gap. Replacing parts arbitrarily is throwing money down the drain.
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      07-23-2018, 02:21 PM   #6292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
I see no reason to stray from the OEM interval of 37k which is already hilariously short for a platinum plug.

Stop relying on the butt dyno. If you want objective information, look for misfires in the ECU and pull the plugs to check the gap. Replacing parts arbitrarily is throwing money down the drain.
It's not "butt dyno" but an noticeable improvement in the smoothness of the engine. Specifically, the first start in the morning after sitting for a weekend. Also, fuel economy has improved over 1.2 MPG, which isn't insignificant because I was getting less than 19 MPG average.

At $90, it's not that much to throw away every year and a half or so.
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