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      06-30-2018, 10:23 AM   #925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GerrS65 View Post
Yes. for ants.. My phone compresses it to upload... not sure how to fix it. Also, I will be doing the bearings regardless. That's not what I'm asking. I'm still just curious about the zero lead at 79k miles.

0ppm is good, but if the next report showed 1ppm I wouldn't panic. Particle streaking and normal testing variances can cause things to skew slightly.
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      06-30-2018, 10:57 AM   #926
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Not conclusive.
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      06-30-2018, 11:39 AM   #927
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This might look better. Maybe for the big red Ants.
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      06-30-2018, 11:41 AM   #928
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This might look better. Maybe for the big red Ants.
Thank buddy! Glad your phone can handle the task
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      06-30-2018, 12:01 PM   #929
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Quote:
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This might look better. Maybe for the big red Ants.
Thank buddy! Glad your phone can handle the task
Lol, it's not much better but it is legible.
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      06-30-2018, 01:11 PM   #930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOF-M3 View Post
This might look better. Maybe for the big red Ants.
I mean, nothing looks wildly out of spec, but it's just one report.
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      06-30-2018, 01:33 PM   #931
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Have you opened up your filter and check inside?
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      06-30-2018, 01:42 PM   #932
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Have you opened up your filter and check inside?
Sure have. Took the sample out of the bottom of the housing. In theory, I could expect worse results from that
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      06-30-2018, 01:48 PM   #933
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I informed the lab the sample was taken from there as well.
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      06-30-2018, 05:53 PM   #934
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I would have no idea how your rod bearing look from your one sample. If you had a sample from every change since new, that would be helpful. But as long as you feel good, that is fine. The odds are with you. My guess is less than 2% have failed. I changed mine when my extended warranty expired and I recommend anyone who would be seriously pained by a $10k+ repair bill spend the $2k to change them. If such a repair bill would not trouble you and you are not someone into spending money on preventative maintenance then you should self insure and do nothing since the odds are with you.
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      06-30-2018, 06:00 PM   #935
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That's a solid report.
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      06-30-2018, 08:37 PM   #936
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I appreciate everyone's input!
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      07-09-2018, 06:36 PM   #937
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Hello, this was from the previous owner who I bought the car from. Changing oil soon, was wondering if I should just stick with the BMW oil or Liqui Moly. I do autocross it, might track it in the near future. Considering doing rod bearings done soon, just in case. I will report back when I have the new report for the current oil.
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      07-09-2018, 08:19 PM   #938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rochen_00 View Post
Hello everyone, I have been reading a bit all the thread and I find it very interesting.

Soon I have to change the oil and I was thinking about the Valvoline VR1 10w60 or the Motul 8100 X-Power 10w60. Does anyone have experience about them or have they tried them ??

Thank you very much to all

Either one should work fine. Get whichever is cheapest or easiest to buy.

I like the high starting TBN of the Valvoline (12) over the Motul (10.1), but if you aren't doing longer change intervals it probably won't make a huge difference.
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      07-09-2018, 08:21 PM   #939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigermack View Post
Hello, this was from the previous owner who I bought the car from. Changing oil soon, was wondering if I should just stick with the BMW oil or Liqui Moly. I do autocross it, might track it in the near future. Considering doing rod bearings done soon, just in case. I will report back when I have the new report for the current oil.

Nothing looks out of whack, but it's just one report and we don't know much else. Next time, pay the extra $20 for TBN & TAN so you can establish the proper change interval.

I would use whichever of those two oils is cheapest or easiest to get (I say that a lot). Your car won't know the difference.
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      07-10-2018, 03:44 AM   #940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Either one should work fine. Get whichever is cheapest or easiest to buy.

I like the high starting TBN of the Valvoline (12) over the Motul (10.1), but if you aren't doing longer change intervals it probably won't make a huge difference.
Thank's bro!
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      07-10-2018, 05:43 PM   #941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Nothing looks out of whack, but it's just one report and we don't know much else. Next time, pay the extra $20 for TBN & TAN so you can establish the proper change interval.

I would use whichever of those two oils is cheapest or easiest to get (I say that a lot). Your car won't know the difference.
Thank you and will do on the TBN/TAN.

When you say cheapest, does that include Wal-Mart carried brands?
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      07-10-2018, 06:21 PM   #942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigermack View Post
Thank you and will do on the TBN/TAN.

When you say cheapest, does that include Wal-Mart carried brands?

Even the cheaper stuff (SuperTech) is blended by the big companies like XOM or CP and carries many of the same certs.

Wal-Mart carries Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, and other synthetics. I don't think they stock any 10w60s but I've never looked.
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      07-10-2018, 09:45 PM   #943
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Anything worth noting with my latest report? Didn't get much drive time this year, but did idle a bit which could explain the fuel dilution.
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      07-10-2018, 10:13 PM   #944
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Anything worth noting with my latest report? Didn't get much drive time this year, but did idle a bit which could explain the fuel dilution.
Aluminum up slightly but it's probably nothing.

Next time pay for TBN & TAN.
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      07-11-2018, 07:35 AM   #945
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincE92M3 View Post
Anything worth noting with my latest report? Didn't get much drive time this year, but did idle a bit which could explain the fuel dilution.
Aluminum up slightly but it's probably nothing.

Next time pay for TBN & TAN.
Thanks! Pardon my ignorance, but what significance would that analysis provide?
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      07-11-2018, 08:04 AM   #946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincE92M3 View Post
Thanks! Pardon my ignorance, but what significance would that analysis provide?
TBN shows you reserve alkalinity (ability to neutralize acids), and TAN shows you how acidic the oil has become. You want to have those values to establish the proper change interval.
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