Went into limp mode today...

[CravingBavaria]

Well boys, only had my car for about 4 weeks and I had my first issue. 2011 E92 with 62k miles.

I was getting onto the freeway and it went all bad real quick. It was still cold so I wasn't giving it aggressive power by any means. The limp mode notification came on and I pulled to the side of the road.

Waited a minute, turned it back on, drove well and the problem happened again.

Gave it one last turn off and on, the limp mode went away, but it's showing service required light and increased emissions notification.

Lucky for me, I was less than 2 miles from the BMW dealer. I didn't want to risk getting stuck by pushing it to a mechanic so I bit the bullet and have them diagnosing for $185.

It sounds like vacuum pump issue, still waiting to hear from dealer.

It's weird because I didn't notice anything wrong with the car. The only "issues" I've seen lately (which could be me overthinking), are it sounds like the engine is whistling at lower rpm and it goes away at higher, and the DCT feels a little clunky at low rpm. No other positive signs of there being any issue.

Anyone else have something similar? I'm waiting for dealer quote, but my main question is, is it safe to drive from the dealer and bring to a mechanic so it's cheaper? Or should I not play with my luck and be thankful I was so close to BMW to begin with....?

Thanks!

[Helmsman]

Recommend you start with getting your own scan tool - for instance Carly - and save yourself the $185 next time. As long as the car drives even in limp mode I would drive it to the shop of my choice.

[kevin @ eas]

Running the codes will tell you everything but if I had to make a guess throttle actuator is common or a bad o2 sensor.

[CravingBavaria]

Thanks for the replies gents. BMW got back to me, vacuum pump... $1,300...

FML! Started talking to some mechanics to get a lower quote. Sucks...

Definitely should get a code reader! Just concerned I won't know how to use it correctly lol

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by CravingBavaria

Thanks for the replies gents. BMW got back to me, vacuum pump... $1,300...

FML! Started talking to some mechanics to get a lower quote. Sucks...

Definitely should get a code reader! Just concerned I won't know how to use it correctly lol

Doesn't seem to be a very common issue but it does exist if you search around. Regardless if you're doing the repair yourself a code scanner points you to what has to be done. That way its easier to avoid being fokked by the dealer....get one mate!

[CravingBavaria]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Doesn't seem to be a very common issue but it does exist if you search around. Regardless if you're doing the repair yourself a code scanner points you to what has to be done. That way its easier to avoid being fokked by the dealer....get one mate!

DEFINITELY going to do this.... could've saved some cash! Oh well, new owner problems lol.

[BimmerRookie]

Originally Posted by CravingBavaria

Thanks for the replies gents. BMW got back to me, vacuum pump... $1,300...

FML! Started talking to some mechanics to get a lower quote. Sucks...

Definitely should get a code reader! Just concerned I won't know how to use it correctly lol

Find a good indy and source your parts/get the OE equivalent from FCP Euro! Save money on the part and with the indy save on labor rate.

[wfdeacon88]

I would 100% get an Indy to diagnose this. I wouldn't trust a BMW dealer with ANYTHING. They could be telling you a vacuum pump, but totally changing something entirely different.. or they will just simply be charging you 2-3x the actual part/labor cost. Do not go to a dealer.. EVER.

[Pig Farmer]

Out of curiosity, what “vacuum pump” are they referring to?

[nyc_dude]

There are reputable BMW M Indy Shops in LA. Avoid all BMW dealerships in CA. Most Service Advisors are crooks and the Techs won't know how to fix an older BMW M if they are new.

AutoTalent, Gardena
EAS, OC
SSR, OC

Read up on your e9x M3. There are many flaws in the S65 V8 that are reasonable to fix at any indy shop. Youtube is your friend.

Mileage is key. Don't pile up 15-20k miles per year as a daily driver. Change the oil every 5-7k miles with Liquid Moly or Castrol 10w60.

Carly is idiot proof and uses a smartphone or tablet. Will save you a small fortune.

Was it limp mode or an emissions error? Look at your invoice for the code. Then search for it here. Probably not a vacuum pump. Secondary blower in the back of the engine under the plenum. Only vacuum pump is for the brakes or in the back by the fuel evac canister.

Enjoy your new //M. One of the greatest cars of the 2010s.They don't make BMWs like that anymore.



Cheers

[Helmsman]

Thread above yours may be of interest: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1672337

[Denk]

Brake vacuum pump failure put me in limp mode too. I took it to my dealer and they said they replaced the pump. I got less than a mile from the dealership and went into limp mode again. i had to limp back to the dealer. I think they actually replaced the pump the second time around. That M3 had 21K miles on it at the time.

[Dpc2u]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Thread above yours may be of interest: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1672337

What he said!

99% of the time it's the sensor, not the actual aux. vacuum pump. It's a $100 diy fix.

[CravingBavaria]

Hello All,

Thanks for the insight. Thought I would provide all that happened here...

So this was my first run-in with limp mode. Being a new owner, I was pretty concerned when it went into limp mode (thinking that limp mode ONLY happens if it's an engine issue). I took it to the closest place to me, the BMW dealer, just to play on the safe side. They diagnosed it as a brake vacuum pump malfunction and as I said, quoted the fix at (not $1,300) but actually $1,384.

I've already had the oil changed by an indy so I deferred to him. Had AAA flat bed my truck for free (shoutout AAA Plus) just to be safe. He charged $750 to change the pump. Sadly already spent $185 at the dealer to diagnose...

He and BMW both found the pump to be faulty and malfunctioning. I was already getting hesitant at what was really going on here, to soon find out that the sensor was really the main reason behind the issues in the first place. The mechanic said it was working intermittently and doesn't need to be replaced right away, but should happen soon. I did A TON of reading over the weekend to see what I was dealing with. At the end of the day, I got the new pump to be safe, trusting BMW and my mechanic.

When I brought it home from the mechanic, the car went into limp mode AGAIN, with the new pump. Shut her down for 5 mins, turned back on and I haven't had issues since. That first day after the new pump I heard it turning on like CRAZY (that buzzing sound that sounds like it's in the dash), way more than it needed to. That made me think well I guess I gotta shell out another $400 for him to replace the sensor... Next day comes, pump is working normally and I barely hear it turning on anymore. Car has been driving like a charm.

That being said, I think it's best to get this faulty sensor changed, but spending another couple hundred on something that is "working" at the moment is just not going to happen.

I want to change it by myself, but have no idea how to do it lol. I'm no mechanic either, but can definitely pick up on how to do it, just haven't seen any youtube videos of what exactly I need to do so I don't mess anything up.

I'm upset that the sensor caused all these issues, but somewhat ok with it considering the pump was going to have to be replaced soon enough anyway.

Help!!!

[Dpc2u]

This may help.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1585870

[BeaterM3]

Originally Posted by CravingBavaria

Hello All,

Thanks for the insight. Thought I would provide all that happened here...

So this was my first run-in with limp mode. Being a new owner, I was pretty concerned when it went into limp mode (thinking that limp mode ONLY happens if it's an engine issue). I took it to the closest place to me, the BMW dealer, just to play on the safe side. They diagnosed it as a brake vacuum pump malfunction and as I said, quoted the fix at (not $1,300) but actually $1,384.

I've already had the oil changed by an indy so I deferred to him. Had AAA flat bed my truck for free (shoutout AAA Plus) just to be safe. He charged $750 to change the pump. Sadly already spent $185 at the dealer to diagnose...

He and BMW both found the pump to be faulty and malfunctioning. I was already getting hesitant at what was really going on here, to soon find out that the sensor was really the main reason behind the issues in the first place. The mechanic said it was working intermittently and doesn't need to be replaced right away, but should happen soon. I did A TON of reading over the weekend to see what I was dealing with. At the end of the day, I got the new pump to be safe, trusting BMW and my mechanic.

When I brought it home from the mechanic, the car went into limp mode AGAIN, with the new pump. Shut her down for 5 mins, turned back on and I haven't had issues since. That first day after the new pump I heard it turning on like CRAZY (that buzzing sound that sounds like it's in the dash), way more than it needed to. That made me think well I guess I gotta shell out another $400 for him to replace the sensor... Next day comes, pump is working normally and I barely hear it turning on anymore. Car has been driving like a charm.

That being said, I think it's best to get this faulty sensor changed, but spending another couple hundred on something that is "working" at the moment is just not going to happen.

I want to change it by myself, but have no idea how to do it lol. I'm no mechanic either, but can definitely pick up on how to do it, just haven't seen any youtube videos of what exactly I need to do so I don't mess anything up.

I'm upset that the sensor caused all these issues, but somewhat ok with it considering the pump was going to have to be replaced soon enough anyway.

Help!!!

I'm surprised they didn't replace the sensor along with the booster vacuum.

I have been lead to believe that the buzzing noise right after start up is normal and has something to do with the catalytic warm up or something like that. My car does this; especially when the weather is cold.

[Helmsman]

Well there you go, indy half price of dealership. Great you've found the issue OP.

[CravingBavaria]

Originally Posted by revengeismine

I'm surprised they didn't replace the sensor along with the booster vacuum.

I have been lead to believe that the buzzing noise right after start up is normal and has something to do with the catalytic warm up or something like that. My car does this; especially when the weather is cold.

He wanted to replace the sensor, but had to order the part. I needed my car for the weekend or I would've left it with him to change that too. Just another few hundred for him to do that too sadly.

[CravingBavaria]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Well there you go, indy half price of dealership. Great you've found the issue OP.

Thanks! Yes indy is the way to go. Glad I have a good guy on top of things.

[GotV8?]

Originally Posted by CravingBavaria

Thanks! Yes indy is the way to go. Glad I have a good guy on top of things.

Sorry to hear about your issue, I would recommend making friends with local mechanics, I had same issue with my car going into limp mode. Get the Carly app for BMW and scan it. I had my Brake Booster Vacuum hose replace .. Parts was $190.00 and labor was a 12 pack of Heineken. lol. my car only had 48 k on the clock at that time. If it is the Throttle Body Actuators...I highly recommend getting them from FCP so that down the road if you plan to own your M long term you have the life time warranty replacement. Good luck and keep us posted.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by GotV8?

If it is the Throttle Body Actuators...I highly recommend getting them from FCP so that down the road if you plan to own your M long term you have the life time warranty replacement. Good luck and keep us posted.

Or Rebuild UK. Also life warranty but < half price...

[deansbimmer]

Rarely do those vacuum pumps fail. More often than not, when a vacuum fault comes up its usually the sensor. Inexperienced mechanics do brake services and overflow the brake fluid reservoir positioned directly above it. The fluid soaking the vacuum sensor causes it to fail. The sensors start to fault occasionally with implausible readings or signal loss which give a CEL and/or limp mode. I haven't yet seen one fail altogether.