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      03-12-2018, 11:02 AM   #1
SpacegrayMe90
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Engine Malfunction Reduced Power

Hi all,

Yesterday, I was heading to dinner with my wife and as I was merging onto the freeway, I accelerated a bit hard and the car got a little sideways but the traction control quickly remedies the sideways action. I then hear the gong of death and see the half engine, DSC light, and the amber brake light is illuminated and so is my SES light. I get off at the next exit and pull over to check control messages. Which were:

Engine Malfunction! Reduced Power
Increased Emissions!
DSC malfunction! Drive carefully
DBC malfunction! Drive carefully
Start- off assistance Inactive

I turned off the car and let it sit for two minutes and restarted same error messages. I decided to head back home. kept it at 50 mph on the highway. In traffic slowdown, the idle was weird as if the car wanted to stall.

I get home and shut down and restart after five minutes and all messages are gone except increased emissions.

I have been getting the increased battery discharge on every startup since mid-November. The car is driven once a week for a decent duration.

Background information:
2010 M3
DCT
55k on the clock
Throttle actuator on bank 1 was changed in 2014.
Original battery

My thoughts are new battery needed or bad throttle actuator or both.

What are your thoughts? I appreciate any insight.
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      03-12-2018, 11:26 AM   #2
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Run the codes with a OBD2 scanner.
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      03-12-2018, 12:33 PM   #3
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just drive normally, I had the same codes when I did my first donut lol
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      03-12-2018, 12:54 PM   #4
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New battery and do the fuse box cable tsb
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      03-12-2018, 01:17 PM   #5
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Likely battery and throttle actuator bank 2. I got same errors last fall when one of my (original) TA's went out after 56K+ miles. Got mine replaced for free under the 7 year emissions warranty. Check if your state is included in that. PA was.
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      03-12-2018, 01:43 PM   #6
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Damn I didn't realize we had so many talented psychic mechanics on the forum!
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      03-12-2018, 02:07 PM   #7
SpacegrayMe90
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Thanks for the feedback fellas. Once I get home I will scan it and hopefully take it for a drive before the snow comes to see if the issues persist. A buddy of mines mentioned my car is not getting driven enough.

Thanks again for your input.
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      03-12-2018, 02:11 PM   #8
kscarrol
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Another psychic here.

Edit: Just found the picture I took of the warnings when my TA went bad, same as OP. Still need to pull the codes though as it could be a number of things...
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      03-12-2018, 06:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogee View Post
Damn I didn't realize we had so many talented psychic mechanics on the forum!
Talented, but not psychic, LOL.

Naw, I'm just going by the fact that I had basically the exact same sequence of events happen to me so I'm just playing the odds here. Definitely still need to pull codes, but as they say in medicine, "when you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras."
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      03-12-2018, 07:31 PM   #10
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Its probably your battery. Battery on these cars are like virus. I hope its not your ABS module. Good luck with it.
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      03-16-2018, 10:24 AM   #11
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Hi guys,

So I'm taking my car to the indy shop tomorrow to get a full diagnostics, should I be ok to drive about 20 miles in the event the car goes into limp mode?
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      03-19-2018, 06:04 PM   #12
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Moral of story...turn DSC off.
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      11-18-2018, 01:36 PM   #13
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you ever figure out what it was? just took mine out for a Sunday drive and the same lights came on. turned it off and back and lights/messges stayed on, idling high about 1k.

just nursed it to a buddies shop, never felt like it was going to stall or anything, just minimal power, I didn’t go faster than 40.
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      11-18-2018, 04:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayocpavao View Post
you ever figure out what it was? just took mine out for a Sunday drive and the same lights came on. turned it off and back and lights/messges stayed on, idling high about 1k.

just nursed it to a buddies shop, never felt like it was going to stall or anything, just minimal power, I didn’t go faster than 40.
A reduced power light usually results in a idle of around 1500 or so


From my time building e92s and owning one

My car got the reduced power light becuz of my own ignorance , after I installed my BBK I topped the fluid to max, and the brake fluid boiled over a dripped in the vacuum pressure sensor below the brake res.
That made the car un drivable , but was a easy fix.


Our race car , throttle actuator went bad , and we replaced both.
Fixed

Then our race car again, got the reduced power light for a bad actuator, but ended up being a bad bank 1 tps sensor


Pull codes and follow up
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      11-18-2018, 05:21 PM   #15
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It's the flux capacitor
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      11-18-2018, 06:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayocpavao View Post
you ever figure out what it was? just took mine out for a Sunday drive and the same lights came on. turned it off and back and lights/messges stayed on, idling high about 1k.

just nursed it to a buddies shop, never felt like it was going to stall or anything, just minimal power, I didn’t go faster than 40.
I vote for TAs.
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      11-19-2018, 07:33 AM   #17
cjpavao
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StripclubDJ View Post
A reduced power light usually results in a idle of around 1500 or so


From my time building e92s and owning one

My car got the reduced power light becuz of my own ignorance , after I installed my BBK I topped the fluid to max, and the brake fluid boiled over a dripped in the vacuum pressure sensor below the brake res.
That made the car un drivable , but was a easy fix.


Our race car , throttle actuator went bad , and we replaced both.
Fixed

Then our race car again, got the reduced power light for a bad actuator, but ended up being a bad bank 1 tps sensor


Pull codes and follow up


bank 1 throttle actuator. just got quoted $1,700. I’ll just purchase one on fcp euro for $505 shipped.
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      11-19-2018, 08:45 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayocpavao View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by StripclubDJ View Post
A reduced power light usually results in a idle of around 1500 or so


From my time building e92s and owning one

My car got the reduced power light becuz of my own ignorance , after I installed my BBK I topped the fluid to max, and the brake fluid boiled over a dripped in the vacuum pressure sensor below the brake res.
That made the car un drivable , but was a easy fix.


Our race car , throttle actuator went bad , and we replaced both.
Fixed

Then our race car again, got the reduced power light for a bad actuator, but ended up being a bad bank 1 tps sensor


Pull codes and follow up


bank 1 throttle actuator. just got quoted $1,700. I’ll just purchase one on fcp euro for $505 shipped.
1700.....
Cheese and rice!!


Where are you located lol
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      11-19-2018, 08:47 AM   #19
cjpavao
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StripclubDJ View Post
1700.....
Cheese and rice!!


Where are you located lol
lol yeah a bit upset about it. I’m in MA.
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      11-19-2018, 12:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayocpavao View Post
lol yeah a bit upset about it. I’m in MA.
Damn son BMW of San Francisco, who tries to charge you about 8 million dollars for an oil change, quoted me something like $2000 to replace both, parts included. What shop/dealer is this?? That's a crazy markup.
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      11-20-2018, 07:33 PM   #21
cjpavao
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatalelement View Post
Damn son BMW of San Francisco, who tries to charge you about 8 million dollars for an oil change, quoted me something like $2000 to replace both, parts included. What shop/dealer is this?? That's a crazy markup.
after speaking with several people, I will be picking the car up and bringing it to another friends shop. I could not justify paying that for one actuator replacement, I really thought it was for both.

anyways, the car only has 48k and doesn’t get driven much, I’m surprised it happened already.
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      11-02-2019, 08:05 AM   #22
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Sorry to revive an old thread but im having your issues too, I changed both T.A's but the misfiring in Bank B remains in all cylinders... any outcome on your end ?
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