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      04-26-2012, 10:46 AM   #1
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STOPTECHS ON! Bleeding Help Wanted?

Man was it a task to get these on!

Tried bleeding them last night and the pedal still goes to the floor. All lines are secure. Am going to give it another go tonight and was hoping to get tips on the best way to bleed them and get stock pedal feel. I appreciate your help with this.
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      04-26-2012, 10:49 AM   #2
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Did you bleed in the correct order? And did you do inside and outside correctly? How many times did you go around the car?
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      04-26-2012, 11:03 AM   #3
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went around only once as it was 2 am. started with passenger front and went clockwise. all lines are secure. had an issue with a couple of lines being a bit loose. I appreciate your inputs.
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      04-26-2012, 11:09 AM   #4
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Try rear right, rear left, front right, front left.
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      04-26-2012, 11:11 AM   #5
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Odd that you started at the passenger front. Try reading the manual that came with the brakes. It tells you EXACTLY how to do it.
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      04-26-2012, 11:14 AM   #6
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good point. was pooped and didn't think to refer to the directions for the order.
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      04-26-2012, 12:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
Odd that you started at the passenger front. Try reading the manual that came with the brakes. It tells you EXACTLY how to do it.
I just installed my Trophy's and the directions tell you to start with the closest to the master cylinder and work your way back. Luckily I read everyone's "bleeding" suggestions before following their Directions.

OP:
My brakes are soft as well, I went around and bled 1 time. I think it's important to do it at least 2-3 time which is a PIA when you are jacking up 1 wheel at a time. Last week I had a couple "close calls" trying to get my car on 4 jackstands So be VERY careful trying that chit... anyway I just bought a lift for my car so that I don't end up killing myself.
My brakes are also dragging on the rotors, loud as F*cK! The direction didn't mention using anti seize on the brake pads, so I am going to try that out see if it helps. I am also changing my fluid to SRF, hope that will help pedal feel.
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      04-26-2012, 12:30 PM   #8
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would you mind sharing the order that you bled them in?
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      04-26-2012, 12:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajvee View Post
would you mind sharing the order that you bled them in?
(1) Passenger side rear (2) Drivers Side Rear (3) Passenger side front (4) driver side front
And do the outside bleed screws first and then inside bleed screws on each caliper
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      04-26-2012, 12:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajvee View Post
would you mind sharing the order that you bled them in?
It was already stated above.

Passenger rear, driver's rear, passenger front, driver's front. You also bleed each caliper's bleed screw doing the outboard then inboard.
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      04-26-2012, 01:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j2M3 View Post
I just installed my Trophy's and the directions tell you to start with the closest to the master cylinder and work your way back. Luckily I read everyone's "bleeding" suggestions before following their Directions.

OP:
My brakes are soft as well, I went around and bled 1 time. I think it's important to do it at least 2-3 time which is a PIA when you are jacking up 1 wheel at a time. Last week I had a couple "close calls" trying to get my car on 4 jackstands So be VERY careful trying that chit... anyway I just bought a lift for my car so that I don't end up killing myself.
My brakes are also dragging on the rotors, loud as F*cK! The direction didn't mention using anti seize on the brake pads, so I am going to try that out see if it helps. I am also changing my fluid to SRF, hope that will help pedal feel.
Stop-Tech directions are incorrect. You should start with the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way in.

Passenger rear
Driver's rear
Passenger front
Driver's front

Do it thoroughly.
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      04-26-2012, 02:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j2M3 View Post
(1) Passenger side rear (2) Drivers Side Rear (3) Passenger side front (4) driver side front
And do the outside bleed screws first and then inside bleed screws on each caliper
jsm3 when you say outside screws first, do you mean go around all corners doing just the outside screws and then redo with the inside screws?

How will the final pedal feel compare to the stock brakes so I have a reference point?
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      04-26-2012, 02:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajvee View Post
jsm3 when you say outside screws first, do you mean go around all corners doing just the outside screws and then redo with the inside screws?

How will the final pedal feel compare to the stock brakes so I have a reference point?
No, you do the outside of the caliper then the inside of the same caliper before moving onto the next wheel.
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      04-26-2012, 02:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
No, you do the outside of the caliper then the inside of the same caliper before moving onto the next wheel.
Thanks a lot man! Will give this a go and let you know how it pans out.
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      04-26-2012, 02:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajvee View Post
Thanks a lot man! Will give this a go and let you know how it pans out.
I would do the entire car from one end to the other at least twice.
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      04-26-2012, 03:27 PM   #16
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I had same issue when fitting bbk. It turned out at the chap that was doing it was only bleeding the top valve, and that my kit had a nipple on the reverse side of the calliper as well. Bleed these as voila! Sounds obvious but have you checked for additional bleed valves??
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      04-26-2012, 04:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j2M3 View Post
I just installed my Trophy's and the directions tell you to start with the closest to the master cylinder and work your way back. Luckily I read everyone's "bleeding" suggestions before following their Directions.

OP:
My brakes are soft as well, I went around and bled 1 time. I think it's important to do it at least 2-3 time which is a PIA when you are jacking up 1 wheel at a time. Last week I had a couple "close calls" trying to get my car on 4 jackstands So be VERY careful trying that chit... anyway I just bought a lift for my car so that I don't end up killing myself.
My brakes are also dragging on the rotors, loud as F*cK! The direction didn't mention using anti seize on the brake pads, so I am going to try that out see if it helps. I am also changing my fluid to SRF, hope that will help pedal feel.
How did you have problems getting on 4 jack stands?
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      04-26-2012, 04:30 PM   #18
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If your pedal is going to the floor you must have a lot of air in the system or you haven't yet got the pads in contact with the rotors.

Did you let the master cylinder brake level get too low while bleeding?

Remember to put the pads in?
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      04-26-2012, 05:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajvee View Post
would you mind sharing the order that you bled them in?



Wheel farthest from the master cylinder, gradually getting to closest wheel.
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      04-26-2012, 05:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXmtrhed View Post
If your pedal is going to the floor you must have a lot of air in the system or you haven't yet got the pads in contact with the rotors.

Did you let the master cylinder brake level get too low while bleeding?

Remember to put the pads in?
Pads do have contact, the car does stop at full compression. I was monitoring the level during the bleed and definitely put the pads in
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      04-26-2012, 05:48 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ 1161 View Post
I had same issue when fitting bbk. It turned out at the chap that was doing it was only bleeding the top valve, and that my kit had a nipple on the reverse side of the calliper as well. Bleed these as voila! Sounds obvious but have you checked for additional bleed valves??

Good point. I had fluid spilling out from additional valves during the first round. We have them all tightened down at the moment, so I think it is only about getting the air out of the system. Wish me luck chaps!
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      04-26-2012, 06:53 PM   #22
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Sometimes it will be difficult to bleed a new caliper. Tap the caliper with a rubber mallet to loosen any bubbles a bit. Then bleed at the outboard bleeder first. Once you do that, the inner bleeder should be free of air pretty quickly.
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