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      07-22-2020, 07:58 PM   #1
jr8896
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Cel light car runs like garbage

So my started died about a year ago, got it replaced, added oil and lubricant of some sort I’m assuming liquid molly as I wasn’t the one who did the service. Car supposedly ran fine but then I started it up and had a rough idle that was red lining at 3k and multiple codes even though the car ran fine before the starter issue. My battery was also replaced. When the person who added the oil and starter worked on the car they never changed the filter for whatever reason. I could really use some help trying to pinpoint this issue without throwing too much money at the car.
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      07-22-2020, 08:06 PM   #2
bvrider1
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umm.. stop taking it to the shop that changes oil without doing the oil filter. You picked the wrong car if you don't want to throw money at a 12 yr old M car.

Clear out your codes and see if they return. Then if they do , search each issue and run through the diagnosis and troubleshooting process.

Seems like a good reputable shop is needed to help you out. Good luck man.
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      07-22-2020, 09:50 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by bvrider1 View Post
umm.. stop taking it to the shop that changes oil without doing the oil filter. You picked the wrong car if you don't want to throw money at a 12 yr old M car.

Clear out your codes and see if they return. Then if they do , search each issue and run through the diagnosis and troubleshooting process.

Seems like a good reputable shop is needed to help you out. Good luck man.
Lol, it was a family member who was doing me the favor and is experienced, guess he decided to cut corners for that same reason smh. I don’t mind spending money is it’s the right issue, but I’ll run through the code clearing like you suggested thank you.
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      07-23-2020, 02:53 PM   #4
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throttle actuators or alternator......

when alternator starts going, you will get the most random ass codes....

has your car ever just die while driving??
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      07-23-2020, 04:31 PM   #5
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If I recall correctly those were similar codes that I got when my throttle actuator on bank 2 went.

Replace both when doing the job. If you are somewhat handy you can do the job yourself.

I forgot the name of the guy on the forums who does rebuilds. He will send you rebuilt TA for a good price and will give you a refund once you ship your broken ones to him. Have had my TAs from him almost 3 years now and no issues.

I think the rebuilds are better than new stock since the rebuild they use higher strength gears. Correct me if I’m wrong anyone.
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      07-25-2020, 06:47 AM   #6
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It may be that the family friend is a mechanic, but knows little about these cars and dud not spend the time to research. Perhaps the starter was fine, but the alternator or battery or main engine ground between the oil pan and frame rail (pretty much under the driver’s left foot under the car) is bad. As others noted, electrical issues cause all sorts of problems.

To replace the starter, you have to remove a lit of stuff. It is possible the guy misconnected a harness or broke or pulled a wire. Cam sensor wiring is part of the wiring he would have had to disconnect to get to the starter.

It is also possible the problem is entirely unrelated, such as a bad chain guide or failing vanos unit. But that seems unlikely given that you have problems on both sides and the problems started after the guy worked on your car.

I agree any mechanic who changes the oil and leaves the filter is not one to trust your car to. His rate may be low, but I don’t think he saved you any money in this case. It may end up that he cost you some money.

Let us know what you find to be the problem. I’d start by giving that ground wire a tug. Then pull the plenum and check the connections.
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      08-22-2020, 05:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
It may be that the family friend is a mechanic, but knows little about these cars and dud not spend the time to research. Perhaps the starter was fine, but the alternator or battery or main engine ground between the oil pan and frame rail (pretty much under the driver’s left foot under the car) is bad. As others noted, electrical issues cause all sorts of problems.

To replace the starter, you have to remove a lit of stuff. It is possible the guy misconnected a harness or broke or pulled a wire. Cam sensor wiring is part of the wiring he would have had to disconnect to get to the starter.

It is also possible the problem is entirely unrelated, such as a bad chain guide or failing vanos unit. But that seems unlikely given that you have problems on both sides and the problems started after the guy worked on your car.

I agree any mechanic who changes the oil and leaves the filter is not one to trust your car to. His rate may be low, but I don’t think he saved you any money in this case. It may end up that he cost you some money.

Let us know what you find to be the problem. I’d start by giving that ground wire a tug. Then pull the plenum and check the connections.
It was a family friend who worked on my car, he paid back a favor smh lol, I do work myself at a shop. I will swap Vanos units just in case, I tested one with a battery and it worked good and cleaned the unit. I’ll follow all the steps suggested and go from there and leave a update. Thank you.
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      08-22-2020, 11:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fooksdaddy View Post
throttle actuators or alternator......

when alternator starts going, you will get the most random ass codes....

has your car ever just die while driving??
Nope, I’m sure it would throw a dash symbol too and throw codes before hand, throttle actuators seems plausible so I will look into that I appreciate it 👍🏽
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      08-22-2020, 11:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJiGGs View Post
If I recall correctly those were similar codes that I got when my throttle actuator on bank 2 went.

Replace both when doing the job. If you are somewhat handy you can do the job yourself.

I forgot the name of the guy on the forums who does rebuilds. He will send you rebuilt TA for a good price and will give you a refund once you ship your broken ones to him. Have had my TAs from him almost 3 years now and no issues.

I think the rebuilds are better than new stock since the rebuild they use higher strength gears. Correct me if I’m wrong anyone.
Thank you for the extremely helpful and detailed reply I’ll definitely start looking into throttle actuators.
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