Track forum general chit chat.

[Bimmer Barney]

Originally Posted by derbo

In case you didn't already, make sure to torque all bolts with rubber bushings when the suspension is loaded at normal static height.

That includes the inboard rear camber arm (spring arm), both trailing arm bolts, upper outboard arms but not the toe links. If you don't have front monoballs, that would also be another one too.

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Yep thanks 👍🏼 I know to do that but also you listed a lot more bolts than I removed for the install. Are you saying I should loosen those and then retorque even if I didn't touch them?

I removed 2 bolts in the rear (#5 and #6) for install and didn't touch anything else. When I do the front monoballs I will retorque at ride height.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

I don't have a build thread.

Driver side done front and rear. Cut a nice clean access hole for the adjusters in the trunk. Really going to miss the RE71R's when these are done. 3 track days and 12k miles on these and still tread left. Hopefully I have a window tomorrow to knock out the passenger side. Then just need to throw on the new thrust arms with monoballs pre installed and code out the EDC.

What’d you cut that hole with? Clean.

[Bimmer Barney]

Originally Posted by admranger

What’d you cut that hole with? Clean.

1 1/2" wood spade drill bit. The adjusters really only need finger pressure to click, so this is enough access and it's discreet, and because it's not a huge hole it will help keep dirt and stuff from getting in there.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

Yep thanks ���� I know to do that but also you listed a lot more bolts than I removed for the install. Are you saying I should loosen those and then retorque even if I didn't touch them?

I removed 2 bolts in the rear (#5 and #6) for install and didn't touch anything else. When I do the front monoballs I will retorque at ride height.

I personally would. I bet you could get away with just retorquing the camber arm and trailing arm at static height.

so #12 on the trailing arm both ends, 6 and 5 and 7.


I bought a end cap to shipping tubes to put it cut hole. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Round-10-14-1...%2C157&sr=8-15

[Bimmer Barney]

That looks great

[admranger]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

1 1/2" wood spade drill bit. The adjusters really only need finger pressure to click, so this is enough access and it's discreet, and because it's not a huge hole it will help keep dirt and stuff from getting in there.

Surprised it cut so cleanly.

I was about to suggest caps but derbo beat me to it!

[Bimmer Barney]

Got the thrust arms in (gotta love an easy job) and now just have the last rear corner. Ok guys, what the hell is the trick to line up the lowers control arm and rear knuckle bolt hole? I struggled with the other rear side last night. Taking a break for now and hope to come back armed with some pro tips from you all.

Almost done!

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

Got the thrust arms in (gotta love an easy job) and now just have the last rear corner. Ok guys, what the hell is the trick to line up the lowers control arm and rear knuckle bolt hole? I struggled with the other rear side last night. Taking a break for now and hope to come back armed with some pro tips from you all.

Almost done!

use a jack and slowly jack up the arm and make sure the bearing is lined up.

[Bimmer Barney]

Originally Posted by derbo

use a jack and slowly jack up the arm and make sure the bearing is lined up.

Yeah that's been my method. Not sure why I can't seem to get it lined up. I have only the spring in the arm to get that first bolt in. Argh.

[slcook54]

Goodies going on with cage next month. Not pictured, Fall Line Camber shim kit and Bimmerworld rear camber arm bearing kit.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

Yeah that's been my method. Not sure why I can't seem to get it lined up. I have only the spring in the arm to get that first bolt in. Argh.

I've seem to have the best luck by leaving the top unbolted and bolting everything below first and jacking it up to line up the top mount.


Other option is to shove a screwdriver when the hole is semi-lined up to straighten it up.


Good luck!

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

Yeah that's been my method. Not sure why I can't seem to get it lined up. I have only the spring in the arm to get that first bolt in. Argh.

skinny long pry bar, such as long flat head you can guide it in.

[Bimmer Barney]

Yeah sound like I should I'm unbolt some of that stuff you mean ruined so I'm not fighting.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

Yeah sound like I should I'm unbolt some of that stuff you mean ruined so I'm not fighting.

yea for me I leave the lower shock bolt loose. then floor jack on the center of the camber arm, do not put it on the knuckle.. then use a flat head on the knuckle to realign the ball joint, it always moves.

[Bimmer Barney]

Bingo! Screwdriver trick was…the trick. All back together and survived a lap around the block. Like I said earlier - ride height, corner balance, alignment happen next week so no flame comments on stance.

[roastbeef]

corner balance is just adjusting ride height while the car is on scales to get it as even as possible, right?

i don't understand how some cars have so much rear rake, but then i look at my car with a decent (eyeballing it) looking front leaning rake with a very small relative difference between the front/rear weights.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

corner balance is just adjusting ride height while the car is on scales to get it as even as possible, right?

i don't understand how some cars have so much rear rake, but then i look at my car with a decent (eyeballing it) looking front leaning rake with a very small relative difference between the front/rear weights.

yeah, I have a lot more forward rake, but it's mainly due to how i wanted the car to look. lol

but yea corner balance is mainly just figuring out the ride height per corner, generally. I have it corner balanced for how my track conditions are. amount of fuel being roughly 1/2 tank.

[roastbeef]

3,800 lbs! wtf.
i made it a point to drop my car off with 1/2 tank, but there wasn't a ballast in the car to simulate me sitting in it. i'm 245lbs. heh

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

3,800 lbs! wtf.
i made it a point to drop my car off with 1/2 tank, but there wasn't a ballast in the car to simulate me sitting in it. i'm 245lbs. heh

that's my driver weight added lol. I'm corner balanced with me in the driver seat.'

nice fat shaming I'm 30lbs heavier than you heh

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

corner balance is just adjusting ride height while the car is on scales to get it as even as possible, right?

i don't understand how some cars have so much rear rake, but then i look at my car with a decent (eyeballing it) looking front leaning rake with a very small relative difference between the front/rear weights.

I did wonder what she weighed.. nice one ☝️

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

corner balance is just adjusting ride height while the car is on scales to get it as even as possible, right?

i don't understand how some cars have so much rear rake, but then i look at my car with a decent (eyeballing it) looking front leaning rake with a very small relative difference between the front/rear weights.

Corner balancing can't change weight distribution much at all, pretty much every modded/gutted E9X track car I've seen is 45/65 like yours. Sucks that all the low hanging fruit re: weight is in the back :

PS congrats on getting to 3200, that's impressive with DCT!

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by spxxx

Corner balancing can't change weight distribution much at all, pretty much every modded/gutted E9X track car I've seen is 45/65 like yours. Sucks that all the low hanging fruit re: weight is in the back :

PS congrats on getting to 3200, that's impressive with DCT!

thanks. this was before the carbon doors, single hump conversion, speaker strip, door cards, front carpet, seats, and headliner came out.