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01-19-2018, 07:05 AM | #23 | |
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01-19-2018, 08:58 AM | #24 |
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jpacy, the same thing happened to me, the alternator would work fine then i would get increased battery discharge. if you can do that check when you get that message, or just take a voltmeter to confirm...i have changed my alternator and no issues to date
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01-28-2018, 03:50 PM | #25 |
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Is the bottom screw on the alternator much longer than the top one? Also, I cannot get the alternator out. It wiggles up and down a bit, but will not slide forward. Also, for it to come forward, the tensioner pulley would have to come off. So which direction should I be pulling the alternator after I get the bolts out?
Last edited by Budge; 01-28-2018 at 04:24 PM.. |
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01-28-2018, 04:29 PM | #26 | |
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02-24-2018, 06:50 PM | #27 |
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I'm convinced that NO ONE is participating in this thread anymore. But I'm going to give some advice anyway so that the next person won't have to struggle the way I have.
The reason why the alternator in the M3 is held in so incredibly tight at the bottom is because there is a bushing that compresses when the bottom screw is tightened. It took a pry bar and rocking the the alternator back and forth TO THE RIGHT for a long time before it finally came out. As far as I know, there is no way to loosen the bushing while in the vehicle. But then, it's just as hard to put the alternator back if the bushing on the new alternator is toward the center. You need to knock that bushing outward until it's flush. Then the alternator will slide back in and the bushing will pull itself tight when you tighten the bottom bolt. I really hope this helps someone else. I appreciate that y'all took the time to write a walk-through. |
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03-07-2018, 01:47 AM | #28 | |
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There is no bushing on the alternator, it is literally metal, there is no way you can push anything. I know exactly what you are talking about, i have seen it on other vehicles, on power steering pumps. |
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03-07-2018, 10:16 AM | #29 |
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Maybe I'm using the wrong term when I wrote "bushing", but there is definitely a movable metal nut that is lagged tight when you secure the bottom bolt of the alternator. That nut sits tightly within a fitted slot. I put the bottom rear portion of the alternator in a vice to squeeze that nut (or bushing) back into that slot. THEN the alternator fell back into place with no effort at all. I'm 100% positive about this. The original alternator in my car was made by Valeo (BMW OEM).
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03-08-2018, 11:56 PM | #30 | |
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03-09-2018, 09:24 AM | #31 | |
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In retrospect, I thing I have a new way to easily remove the alternator if one gets stuck like mine. Find a short bolt that's the same size and insert it with a washer from the back side. As you tighten it, the nut should back out enough to easily release the alternator from it's mounting position. If that works (it should), people should send me some beer money for how much time I just saved them. Seriously! |
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03-28-2018, 05:28 PM | #32 |
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This write up was extremely helpful. I had a charging malfunction warning last week followed by a completely dead alternator a couple of days later. If I might add one thing to this - it’s to keep an eye out for the small expansion take hose that branches off of the upper radiator hose. I was tired and got lazy with this part while I was violently shoving the fan shroud back in and broke it as a result. Thankfully I was able to half ass it with JB Weld until the new part comes, but I wish that I was more careful.
Thanks again for the DIY. This was perfect. |
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04-04-2018, 06:51 PM | #33 |
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I can't get the alternator out either... and afraid to put a crowbar against anything cause seems there is a lot of breakable items near there. Any other tips? How the hell does this thing come out?
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06-04-2018, 02:32 PM | #34 | |
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However, as this is my only car, I was wondering if you'd share how you finally got the alternator out. I'm trying to be prepared so I don't have to leave it in my friend's driveway overnight because I can't get the thing out... I had posted about this before but I replaced the battery and the problem went away. It's back now though so I figured the alternator is next. Thanks in advance! |
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06-04-2018, 02:53 PM | #36 |
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06-04-2018, 03:02 PM | #37 | |
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But I was asking about how the poster I had quoted finally got the thing out of the car. Evidently it can become stuck, as noted be several others in the thread. I only have the one car. The more I learn now about issues I may come across while replacing the alternator, the less down time my car will have. Also as I said, I'll likely be doing this in someone's driveway, I live in a city and can't do it in my apartment's underground garage. I wouldn't want to leave it in my friend's driveway overnight - or longer! - if I can help it... |
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06-04-2018, 03:13 PM | #38 | ||
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06-04-2018, 04:08 PM | #39 | |
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Another piece of advice that I will offer is to take a flat piece of cardboard and tape it over your radiator to protect it from dings (or worse). Also, I would use tape or a towel to cover the sharp edges at the front of the engine bay. Otherwise, you will cut up your forearms no matter how careful you are. |
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06-04-2018, 04:37 PM | #40 | |
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https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...22&postcount=2 |
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06-05-2018, 12:05 PM | #41 | |
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06-05-2018, 12:11 PM | #42 | |
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06-05-2018, 12:13 PM | #43 | |
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thanks again. |
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06-05-2018, 12:19 PM | #44 | |
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most important key is remove the Alternator's top bolt about quarter inch and remove the bottom bolt about half inch. And get a hammer and start hitting the bottom bolt like you are hammering a nail! There is the back part of this bolt has to move quarter inch while you are hammering! And you will see that alternator start getting loose. And then jiggle the alternator and see how loose it become. If it is not that loose hammer back again! Once it is loose remove regardless of order bottom or top bolt and put the alternator to the bottom of the engine tray! |
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