How often do you replace your studs and lug nuts?

[Kong Sheng Han]

I'm getting tired of using lug bolts, and it may be time to convert to a stud kit. Studs break and lug nuts stretch over time, I've read/been told. APEX recommends that both studs and lug nuts be replaced annually on a track car, but I was wondering what interval(s) actual users follow. When ordering, should I purchase 1-2 extra studs and/or lug nuts just in case of unexpected failure?

[roastbeef]

I'm getting close to two years on mine. I'm going to be proactively changing mine soon. Had turner's, ordered four extras. None broke.

[ThunderMoose]

I think every two years is reasonable. I see some folks checking torque before every session. In my experience my lugs stay properly torqued through the weekend, so I only check in the morning. I think constantly torquing these fellas leads to early failure. YMMV.

[1MOREMOD]

Every other season for me. Depends on studs. I have the bimmerworld race and haven't snapped any. Can't say same for some other brands

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

I think every two years is reasonable. I see some folks checking torque before every session. In my experience my lugs stay properly torqued through the weekend, so I only check in the morning. I think constantly torquing these fellas leads to early failure. YMMV.

Exactly. There's an art to using a torque wrench. Putting your full weight on the torque wrench when you're just checking torque will certainly shorten the life of your studs. I see so many do that.

Just takes a light pull to get a click. Once the fastener turns...you're adding torque.

[redpriest]

I had to replace mine after about 20 track days, or 7 months. It all depends how much use you put on, TBH. One of mine snapped after 20 and that's all she wrote. I'm not abusive on torquing them either.

[ExxelDistributions]

Most brands for stud conversion kits recommend annually.

[M3 Number 86]

I do it annually now just bc of breaking things before. They're not expensive so better safe than sorry. That's just me though.

But I see a lot of ppl looking to buy used ones who don't think cal. Maybe I'll put them on the for sale forum LOL

[roastbeef]

i'm not sure if it contributes or not, but i like to let them cool before i mess with them. if i'm swapping wheels at the end of the day, i'll be sure to get a generous cool down lap in, and then let the car sit for a little bit. i just feel like torquing to tighten/loosen when hot might not be healthy for them.

[okusa]

I replace annually. Definitely a bad idea to torque them while hot.

[roastbeef]

while on the topic of studs, has anyone used the expensive turner "dry lube" race studs?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...-e9x/Checkout/

[Kong Sheng Han]

Cool. I'll start at 2 years and adjust if necessary.

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Exactly. There's an art to using a torque wrench. Putting your full weight on the torque wrench when you're just checking torque will certainly shorten the life of your studs. I see so many do that.

Just takes a light pull to get a click. Once the fastener turns...you're adding torque.

I'm skinny and weak now. Light pull won't work for me.

I stop right when I hear the torque wrench click. For proper use, is there more to it than just that?

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

But I see a lot of ppl looking to buy used ones who don't think cal. Maybe I'll put them on the for sale forum LOL

Sounds like pretty good ROI.

Originally Posted by roastbeef

i'm not sure if it contributes or not, but i like to let them cool before i mess with them. if i'm swapping wheels at the end of the day, i'll be sure to get a generous cool down lap in, and then let the car sit for a little bit. i just feel like torquing to tighten/loosen when hot might not be healthy for them.

I don't mess with bolts when hot. I've gotten lazy since my first event, so I torque once, twice max in a day. Morning always, then maybe at lunch if I remember...I usually forget...

[dparm]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

I think every two years is reasonable. I see some folks checking torque before every session. In my experience my lugs stay properly torqued through the weekend, so I only check in the morning. I think constantly torquing these fellas leads to early failure. YMMV.

Same. I don't understand why people feel the need to check torque after every session. In fact, I don't really want to be re-torquing stuff when the hubs, nuts, and everything else is extremely hot AND at ambient temperature.

I have never checked the torque and found them to be loose.

[doogee]

I swap mine at every other rod bearing change

Probably a good idea to change studs annually though.

[macdude357]

Is there ever a need to check the torque on the studs themselves? If so, how often do you do it?

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by macdude357

Is there ever a need to check the torque on the studs themselves? If so, how often do you do it?

I've never done it. Red loctite + torque them down = no worries.

[okusa]

Originally Posted by redpriest

I've never done it. Red loctite + torque them down = no worries.

I would stay away from red and go with blue. If you use red and break a stud in a bad place you will end up having to replace the hub itself.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by Kong Sheng Han

Cool. I'll start at 2 years and adjust if necessary.

I'm skinny and weak now. Light pull won't work for me.

I stop right when I hear the torque wrench click. For proper use, is there more to it than just that?

Sounds like pretty good ROI.

I don't mess with bolts when hot. I've gotten lazy since my first event, so I torque once, twice max in a day. Morning always, then maybe at lunch if I remember...I usually forget...

You've got to be familiar with your torque wrench since they all click differently. You don't want to be leaning on it with all your might when the wrench clicks. You can easily get an extra 1/8th of a turn.

If you want to be super anal retentive then you'd torque to about 90% and then do a final torque to 100%.

I don't even use a torque wrench. I use a 80ft lb torque stick on a Milwaukee 18v battery impact. Squeeze the trigger and keep going until the nut stops turning. I've check it enough to know I'm right around 80 ft/lbs.

This is assuming that the mating surfaces on your wheels and hubs are clean and you've properly seated the wheel flush against the face of the hub.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

I don't even use a torque wrench. I use a 80ft lb torque stick on a Milwaukee 18v battery impact. Squeeze the trigger and keep going until the nut stops turning. I've check it enough to know I'm right around 80 ft/lbs.

i've been looking at torque sticks. do they work well?

i'm looking at this one.
https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-5009...s=torque+stick

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by okusa

I would stay away from red and go with blue. If you use red and break a stud in a bad place you will end up having to replace the hub itself.

i think blow torch will take care of it. unless red means you can't even fire it off lol

[Groundpilot]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

You've got to be familiar with your torque wrench since they all click differently. You don't want to be leaning on it with all your might when the wrench clicks. You can easily get an extra 1/8th of a turn.

If you want to be super anal retentive then you'd torque to about 90% and then do a final torque to 100%.

I don't even use a torque wrench. I use a 80ft lb torque stick on a Milwaukee 18v battery impact. Squeeze the trigger and keep going until the nut stops turning. I've check it enough to know I'm right around 80 ft/lbs.

This is assuming that the mating surfaces on your wheels and hubs are clean and you've properly seated the wheel flush against the face of the hub.

It should be 88-90 ft/lbs

[1MOREMOD]

It's lower with studs, read the directions.