Brembo Caliper on stock rotor

[FMLYSDN]

Originally Posted by FFM

Could just powder coat them shocker yellow.

And then what?

[FFM]

Powder coat is much more likely to hold up to the heat. I assumed he's painting them?

[FMLYSDN]

Originally Posted by FFM

Powder coat is much more likely to hold up to the heat. I assumed he's painting them?

Yes. Agreed. To a certain extent. However powder coat is baked at 450F. Above that and the powder coat is gonna be affected too. Ceramics are good to 1200F and above.

Albert is having someone else powder coating them I assume. But I don't really know. I asked the question but received no response to this.

The powder coating will hold up fine if you drive it on the street. The track is a different story. There are more knowledgeable and experienced members on this board that will say the same thing. Regardless of these or any other caliper (factory Brembo, Stoptech....) they'll all change colour. That is why the high end kits are anodized.

[Richbot]

EDIT - Nevermind, FMLY said it all

[Spoff_E90_M3]

So I guess hearing that all colors are going to fade at the track - I guess Black would be best. Anyone else have a better thought?

[FMLYSDN]

Originally Posted by Spoff_E90_M3

So I guess hearing that all colors are going to fade at the track - I guess Black would be best. Anyone else have a better thought?

That's an option for sure. I would have considered this except my wheels are black so I wasn't looking at this option but you're right that it is a way to go.

I am trying ceramic coating underneath my powder coating to see if it helps.

But I also am adding cooling ducts and have changed my front rotors from stock to the Stoptech Aero.

I personally am not a fan of the OEM rotors for tracking. Just my personal observation.

[FMLYSDN]

[Spoff_E90_M3]

Originally Posted by FMLYSDN

Or brown. How do you like pooh brown? Anybody else on here for pooh brown? Let's see about a group buy for pooh brown.

YUCK!!

Albert - what other options can you provide so that the caliper does not fade after being run at track temperatures? Powder coating won't stand the hear. Do you have a way to get them anodized?

[whats77inaname]

Originally Posted by Spoff_E90_M3

Powder coating won't stand the heat.

Realistically, the caliper won't get hotter than the brake fluid, otherwise the fluid would boil, causing brake failure. Amsoil's Dominator race brake fluid has a boiling point of 580 degrees F.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2476.pdf

There are plenty of powders that can withstand those kinds of temps w/out failing.

[The HACK]

Originally Posted by whats77inaname

Realistically, the caliper won't get hotter than the brake fluid, otherwise the fluid would boil, causing brake failure. Amsoil's Dominator race brake fluid has a boiling point of 580 degrees F.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2476.pdf

There are plenty of powders that can withstand those kinds of temps w/out failing.

That's not true.

The brake system can easily generate over 1,000ºF of heat on track. At that temp you can do some serious damage to the powder coated paint.

You're confusing brake fluid's boiling temperature with how it actually boils. While the brake system can generate up to 1,000ºF in heat, it doesn't do it for a prolong period of time. The caliper will have to be at 600ºF or higher for a period of time in order to bring ALL the fluid up to that temperature, thus boiling the brake fluid. However, the brake rotor and caliper, being made of materials that transfer and radiate heat much faster than the fluid, will evacuate that excess heat away from the fluid thus preventing it from boiling and vaporizing right away. Most of the time brake fade resulting from fluid failure actually occurs IN THE PADDOCKS when no proper cool-down laps were taken, and the heat trapped in the rotor and calipers continue to "cook" the fluid as you sit and rest.

So even though your fluid isn't boiling, it doesn't mean that your rotors and calipers aren't getting up to temperatures that will damage, destroy, or discolor powder coated paint.

[albertracing]

Originally Posted by Spoff_E90_M3

YUCK!!

Albert - what other options can you provide so that the caliper does not fade after being run at track temperatures? Powder coating won't stand the hear. Do you have a way to get them anodized?

Best colors that will hold on for longest are
- black
- red
- yellow
- blue
- green
- orange

For last 6 years we have sold 1000+ sets. This is first time that we have that radical color change. It is due that "special" yellow was very hard to paint and it consists of 3 layers of paint.

I would advice to sick with basic colors and they will hold.

Things that will help:
- getting brake air ducts (helps really a lot)
- race pads
- better rotors

[FMLYSDN]

Originally Posted by The HACK

That's not true.

The brake system can easily generate over 1,000ºF of heat on track. At that temp you can do some serious damage to the powder coated paint.

You're confusing brake fluid's boiling temperature with how it actually boils. While the brake system can generate up to 1,000ºF in heat, it doesn't do it for a prolong period of time. The caliper will have to be at 600ºF or higher for a period of time in order to bring ALL the fluid up to that temperature, thus boiling the brake fluid. However, the brake rotor and caliper, being made of materials that transfer and radiate heat much faster than the fluid, will evacuate that excess heat away from the fluid thus preventing it from boiling and vaporizing right away. Most of the time brake fade resulting from fluid failure actually occurs IN THE PADDOCKS when no proper cool-down laps were taken, and the heat trapped in the rotor and calipers continue to "cook" the fluid as you sit and rest.

So even though your fluid isn't boiling, it doesn't mean that your rotors and calipers aren't getting up to temperatures that will damage, destroy, or discolor powder coated paint.

Thanks for sharing this.

[TrAcK TRaP]

Originally Posted by The HACK

That's not true.

The brake system can easily generate over 1,000ºF of heat on track. At that temp you can do some serious damage to the powder coated paint.

You're confusing brake fluid's boiling temperature with how it actually boils. While the brake system can generate up to 1,000ºF in heat, it doesn't do it for a prolong period of time. The caliper will have to be at 600ºF or higher for a period of time in order to bring ALL the fluid up to that temperature, thus boiling the brake fluid. However, the brake rotor and caliper, being made of materials that transfer and radiate heat much faster than the fluid, will evacuate that excess heat away from the fluid thus preventing it from boiling and vaporizing right away. Most of the time brake fade resulting from fluid failure actually occurs IN THE PADDOCKS when no proper cool-down laps were taken, and the heat trapped in the rotor and calipers continue to "cook" the fluid as you sit and rest.

So even though your fluid isn't boiling, it doesn't mean that your rotors and calipers aren't getting up to temperatures that will damage, destroy, or discolor powder coated paint.

[whats77inaname]

Originally Posted by The HACK

That's not true.

The brake system can easily generate over 1,000ºF of heat on track. At that temp you can do some serious damage to the powder coated paint.

You're confusing brake fluid's boiling temperature with how it actually boils. While the brake system can generate up to 1,000ºF in heat, it doesn't do it for a prolong period of time. The caliper will have to be at 600ºF or higher for a period of time in order to bring ALL the fluid up to that temperature, thus boiling the brake fluid. However, the brake rotor and caliper, being made of materials that transfer and radiate heat much faster than the fluid, will evacuate that excess heat away from the fluid thus preventing it from boiling and vaporizing right away. Most of the time brake fade resulting from fluid failure actually occurs IN THE PADDOCKS when no proper cool-down laps were taken, and the heat trapped in the rotor and calipers continue to "cook" the fluid as you sit and rest.

So even though your fluid isn't boiling, it doesn't mean that your rotors and calipers aren't getting up to temperatures that will damage, destroy, or discolor powder coated paint.

Thanks for the education. I appreciate the thoroughness of your explanation, as well as the fact that you took the time to post and share the information

[FMLYSDN]

Originally Posted by whats77inaname

Thanks for the education. I appreciate the thoroughness of your explanation, as well as the fact that you took the time to post and share the information

Nice. Great gesture and well done. I appreciate your post.

[JFB]

You guys are way too polite to each other..

Are y'all Canadian or something?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Spoff_E90_M3

So I guess hearing that all colors are going to fade at the track - I guess Black would be best. Anyone else have a better thought?

My StopTech kit is black and I do take my car to the track. While the black itself hasn't faded, the white StopTech text did take on a slight brown tinge. It's not that noticeable unless you're looking closely.

[The HACK]

Originally Posted by Spoff_E90_M3

So I guess hearing that all colors are going to fade at the track - I guess Black would be best. Anyone else have a better thought?

What are you after? Looks? Actual track use? If you want performance for the track, strip the calipers bare (they're aluminum) and run naked. Brembo's race kit, AP Racing, and StopTech's Trophy kits are like that for that purpose.

If you're in it for the track performance AND want the calipers to retain the painted/powder-coated color, run cooling ducts to the rotors. The faster the rotors evacuate heat the less likely the calipers will discolor. It will increase the lifespan of your brake component and their performance anyway.

[opihi5]

For those of you looking to buy this kit..
I have been running this kit for awhile now and have nothing but good things to say. I love the fact that you can upgrade the weak stock m3 calipers with these, and still upgrade the rotors if you want for better heat dissipation.

I'm not a huge fan of the current pads on the kit and i think Albert should make a dedicated pad section on his website with various options making purchase easier.

If you don't want to spend 8k on a "proper" kit this is the perfect way to get some more stopping power.

[Powashiftin]

Originally Posted by opihi5

For those of you looking to buy this kit..
I have been running this kit for awhile now and have nothing but good things to say. I love the fact that you can upgrade the weak stock m3 calipers with these, and still upgrade the rotors if you want for better heat dissipation.

I'm not a huge fan of the current pads on the kit and i think Albert should make a dedicated pad section on his website with various options making purchase easier.

If you don't want to spend 8k on a "proper" kit this is the perfect way to get some more stopping power.

Did you figure out the cause of the rust ring you mentioned from the pads not making contact all across the rotor?

[Redd]

Red rotors will turn brown with track use.

Try titanium brake pad heat shields. They keep a lot of the heat away from the pistons and calipers. My last car had them in the front Brembos and they didn't discolor even after 5 years with track use.

[FMLYSDN]

Originally Posted by Redd

Red rotors will turn brown with track use.

Try titanium brake pad heat shields. They keep a lot of the heat away from the pistons and calipers. My last car had them in the front Brembos and they didn't discolor even after 5 years with track use.

Any recommendations for suppliers or manufacturers?