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08-25-2015, 11:36 AM | #1 |
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Liquid Glass v. Traditional Wax
I was told yesterday (by a helpful gentleman at Auto Zone who used to own several bimmers 'back in the day') that he recommended Liquid Glass over any other wax product.
He said after 3-4 applications of LG, it would take about one year to wear off, and would protect the paint better than anything else. But... if something were to happen within the year and Lorraine needed any body work done, they would have to remove the LG with acetone, otherwise the new paint would not stick. (That freaked me out a bit) Does anyone have any experience with Liquid Glass? TIA! |
08-25-2015, 12:03 PM | #2 |
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takes recommendations from auto zone guy about detailing...
i have no idea what liquid glass is, but just forget it. forget all about it. the most durable wax you can get would have to be collinite 476. it won't require acetone to remove...lol the absolute best protection you can get in today's market would be a coating and that only requires polishing to remove. acetone on paint? cmon seriously think about the advice and where it came from. |
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08-25-2015, 12:10 PM | #3 | |
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No- I didn't buy it. Like I said... Acetone?! I was just curious about it. It had a $35 price tag. Thanks for your suggestion- will check out the Collinite!
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08-25-2015, 12:16 PM | #4 | |
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personally i would invest the money in a coating, but it is pricey for sure. for those who still want protection/looks you can't go wrong with collinite (so hard to beat the price and protection it offers) or my sealant recommendation of sonax polymer netshield (still great price for the level of protection and looks you get). |
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08-25-2015, 01:17 PM | #6 |
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Liquid Glass is still being produced? Oh man! That stuff has been around forever.
Go for a modern synthetic sealant. Plenty of great choices that I'm sure other folks on here have experience with. I still use Klasse.
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08-25-2015, 02:01 PM | #7 | |
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Those crazy kids sniffing that, too?!
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08-25-2015, 02:37 PM | #8 |
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Dude, tons of shit is weirdly labeled or illegal in California. They're really cautious about everything. I'm pretty certain you have to wear a helmet to jerk off in that state.
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08-25-2015, 03:05 PM | #9 |
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The original Battery Tenders (as re-sold by BMW) are illegal in CA too-- didn't meet new power efficiency requirements! The Deltran corp. was forced to do a complete re-design to get back into California sales.
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08-26-2015, 11:08 AM | #10 |
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Menzerna Powerlock is the shit. Every time I think I'm due to redo the sealant, it keeps beading up.
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08-26-2015, 11:20 AM | #11 |
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I'm +1 for Optimum Opti Gloss coat. I love this stuff.
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08-26-2015, 04:29 PM | #12 | |
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I love listening to some of the stuff autozone guys say. Using acetone on a car?? |
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08-30-2015, 01:33 AM | #13 |
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Used to use that on my car back in the day and it was good....back then, but there are much better products now (or at least that I am aware of now). Better off using Collinite 845 if you are looking for a long lasting wax. Menzerna Powerlock isn't bad but I feel as though the Collinite has a wetter look to it then the Powerlock. Hydro2 seems to be pretty good (applied it on my X3 a couple months ago) and is much easier to apply (spray on a clean surface and pressure wash or hose off).
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09-10-2015, 06:13 AM | #14 |
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Liquid glass does not allow the paint to flex and bend. And nothing lasts for a year. Use a sealant like AMMO skin once every 3 months, and do a quick paste wax after every wash. I still get compliments on how new mine looks after 6 years.
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12-11-2015, 08:21 AM | #17 |
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12-13-2015, 10:18 AM | #18 |
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Liquid glass is by far the best polish I have used. Having managed a service/detail department, we have experimented many different types of polishes (we do not use wax because the long-term negative effect it has on paint such as fading in Florida sun). Liquid Glass provided the easiest application and take off, protection and shine, and smells great
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03-02-2016, 03:50 PM | #19 | |
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I still use it today on the face/barrels of the wheels on all my cars as well as the paint on my winter runner (Silver Xterra). It has some good attributes: it is a true rust inhibitor, can be applied in direct sun, will not buildup or lift like wax can, adheres to the clear coat, does do minor paint/clear coat cleaning when applied, can be applied and removed with a machine, will last for quite a long time (8+ months) with a proper application even through salty roads and when exposed to the regular elements. It does have some drawbacks: it can leave streaks in dark colors like black, will not hide any surface scratches unlike a good wax that has carnauba, will leave residue on rubber and black plastic, and will have you working overtime to get residue left in body seams if you are too liberal with the application. It is not as permanent as the instruction on the back would imply "for paint prep use mineral sprits and 0000 Grit Sand Paper to remove" Even though it does bond to the clear coat it is not like OptiCoat and while it offers less protection, it does not seal in imperfections if not applied correctly. Basically there are products out there that with more prep and application time will produce a better shine/depth and so for most of my cars I do not use it on the paint. However, for my daily/winter driver that I really do not want to spend the time on, the results are outstanding. And no regular wheel wax that I have tried will hold a candle to it in terms of protection and shine for clear coated alloy wheels.
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