Official Harrop TVS1740 Supercharger Thread

[RUG8RB8]

Originally Posted by drwankel

I'm assuming there's some sort of a gasket between the two? Or is is it just RTV?

Originally Posted by christoepurrr

The "lid"/top mount assembly must be removed to access the drain bolt which is indicated here with a red arrow:


Torque specs for reinstallation of the lid/top mount assembly here (obtained from Harrop AU):

Thanks!!!

[RUG8RB8]

I would also like to know about whether or not a gasket is required? Need to have everything in place before performing this ASAP as I am way past due.

[RUG8RB8]

Originally Posted by Mvy

While im at it, whats the best belt to use to replace the factory belt?

I use this one:

[RUG8RB8]

[QUOTE=christoepurrr;32710240]The "lid"/top mount assembly must be removed to access the drain bolt which is indicated here with a red arrow:


Torque specs for reinstallation of the lid/top mount assembly here (obtained from Harrop AU):




Chris:

Have you done this procedure yourself? I found some contradicting information on Chat GPT and called Eaton. I just want to be sure. Thank you.

[RUG8RB8]

According to “Chat GPT” the sealant required for the top cover to S/C body is Loctite 518 which makes perfect sense. That is what I use on many of my Porsche Engines.

[christoepurrr]

[QUOTE=RUG8RB8;32718135]

Originally Posted by christoepurrr

The "lid"/top mount assembly must be removed to access the drain bolt which is indicated here with a red arrow:


Torque specs for reinstallation of the lid/top mount assembly here (obtained from Harrop AU):




Chris:

Have you done this procedure yourself? I found some contradicting information on Chat GPT and called Eaton. I just want to be sure. Thank you.

I have, yes, following the instructions received from Tyler from Harrop AU. I drained and refilled with the same amount of oil (AC Delco supercharger oil part # 12345982 per Harrop USA). Loctite 518 is the gasket to use.

[RUG8RB8]

Hello Gentlemen, I have confirmed with Harrop of Australia that this is indeed “The Way”! I have oil on order and when I perform this task I will document with proper pics and make a “Procedure”. Happy Boosted Smiles for Miles!

[narkotic]

Careful with GPT. It hallucinates more now than ever, I think to speed up it's response time. I routinely have to tell it to recite it's sources where it will actually crawl the web and correct itself but in a way that makes it sound like it never made the original error in the first place. A bit of a silly time waster sometimes. Great to use for writing code though. Sometimes.

I intend on performing this procedure on my harrop while it's not installed yet (purchased used). Looks like loctite 518 for the gasket. and 262 for the bolts. Harrop support told me 50ml of oil, so who knows the actual right answer lol. I do intend on measuring out what I drain so i'll report back next week.

[smokinjoe64]

Originally Posted by narkotic

Careful with GPT. It hallucinates more now than ever, I think to speed up its response time. I routinely have to tell it to recite it's sources where it will actually crawl the web and correct itself but in a way that makes it sound like it never made the original error in the first place. A bit of a silly time waster sometimes. Great to use for writing code though. Sometimes...

Found similar not only w/ChatGPT even more so w/ Gemini.
For topics with some degree of knowledge, frequently "re-ask" to find a more refined output and more so for new inquiries.

Essentially, treat responses as another data point/indicator rather than 'actual fact'.

[narkotic]

Originally Posted by RUG8RB8

I use this one:

BTW this belt is NLA and long discontinued. Continental bought the technology and killed the unique pattern on the belt to help with squeal issues.

I found one one ebay ($90!!) and then summit racing for less. But, after it arrived it was a bait and switch and I ended up with the newer one that has just straight grooves.

[aw_e90_SC]

This thread was super helpful. I may list my SC for sale though having some issues with my car

[RUG8RB8]

Originally Posted by narkotic

BTW this belt is NLA and long discontinued. Continental bought the technology and killed the unique pattern on the belt to help with squeal issues.

I found one one ebay ($90!!) and then summit racing for less. But, after it arrived it was a bait and switch and I ended up with the newer one that has just straight grooves.

I just bought two on EBay, they are correct!

[RUG8RB8]

I have managed to take out all the bolts and I am now trying to separate the top from the lower S/C assembly which is apparently more difficult than I anticipated. I have tried to add heat and whacked quite a few times with large rubber mallet and towels with no help. Anybody that has done this previously have any kind of input for the best way to remove without damaging anything?

[RUG8RB8]

Success!!!

This is slightly more of a job than some will want to tackle, but here are some rare pictures that I have never seen posted. That 518 sure makes a tight seal, literally like expoxy.

You will see the amount of oil I found in intake, not bad for 130,000 miles. I extracted exactly 50ml of oil and it was black. I flushed twice with 25ml of new oil and removed each time.

Finding some conflicting things online and from email from Harrop, they said 100ml many on here say 50ml. I think I am going to add 60ml and call it a day.

[RUG8RB8]

Item of note, oil filler plug is SAE, not Metric! It is 3/16” standard hex key and quite tight. I could not find torque parameter. Also, 6mm socket works great with correct length extension for the bellmouth worm gear clamps. I hate slotted screwdriver but it will work. You will need a new bottle of Redline Water Wetter or equivalent and a gallon of distilled water. Wish someone would have mentioned that, but I should have know. Would have been a good time to change the belt as well, but I changed it not too long ago.

[RUG8RB8]

Here are some pics of the IAT sensor and good shot of location. While Not perfect it is better than I thought it was. If it were extended and centered on the bellmouth for cylinder #1, I would like it better. Honestly I would prefer #2 or #3, but that would require a new boss.

[drwankel]

I really appreciate this post and photos. I've never seen a photo of the supercharger separated from the plenum. (is that the right word here?)

Any pictures of the dirty oil? Would like to see what it looks like after that much mileage.

The one thing that gives me pause is the idea of leaving the supercharger attached to the feed assembly while removing the plenum from the supercharger.

The harrop torque sequence has us install and torque the feed assembly after the supercharger assembly is torqued to the fuel rail mounts.

Because of that, completely removing the entire supercharger assembly feels necessary in order to maintain the correct torque sequence.

[RUG8RB8]

I asked this question directly to Harrop AU and was told no problem. I posted a picture of the dirty oil in the syringe above. Please note new oil is clear. Car is back together and running great. Boost is dead nuts at 6.5 psi, so I got her sealed up properly. No signs of any leaks. All in start to finish is about 6 hours for me. Now, that I have done it once, I think I could do it in 3, maybe even 2. I spent quite a bit of time searching for information and questioning how to break it free.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by RUG8RB8

I asked this question directly to Harrop AU and was told no problem. I posted a picture of the dirty oil in the syringe above. Please note new oil is clear. Car is back together and running great. Boost is dead nuts at 6.5 psi, so I got her sealed up properly. No signs of any leaks. All in start to finish is about 6 hours for me. Now, that I have done it once, I think I could do it in 3, maybe even 2. I spent quite a bit of time searching for information and questioning how to break it free.

That's awesome that you actually asked Harrop this. Good to know this is a an option.

I wasn't sure if that was the dirty oil or not. I figured it probably was with how dark it was at the bottom. Thanks for confirming.

Great work here.

[RUG8RB8]

Driven over 300 miles now, no issues and car pulls hard to RL.