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07-26-2022, 08:13 PM | #21759 | ||
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07-26-2022, 08:32 PM | #21760 | |
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As far as XP12 vs XP20, the 20 has a higher temp range, but it's also not as "rotor friendly." A "rotor friendly" pad is code for the pad wearing out quicker to save the rotor wear. While the XP20 may fix the pad wear issue, it could be at the expense of wear on the rotor rings.
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07-26-2022, 09:03 PM | #21761 | ||
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I'm either going back to Endless ME20, Colbalt Friction XR1 or those yellow Pagid Enduro pads (forget the name).
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07-26-2022, 10:46 PM | #21762 |
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good thing my XP12s are 25mm thick lol
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07-27-2022, 11:09 AM | #21763 |
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I'm sure this has been beaten to death… but after my last track incident I'm looking at other options besides RLI cuz of the high deductible.
What other options are legit? Open track seems like a decent deal if you go annual. 5% deductible too.
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07-27-2022, 11:59 AM | #21764 | |
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Also, keep in mind this offers are for "HPDE track insurance" and they specifically say open track days aren't covered.
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07-27-2022, 12:02 PM | #21765 | ||
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But I would need to do at least like 8-10 events in the next year to get my money's worth out of open track.
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07-27-2022, 12:07 PM | #21766 | |
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JK, that incident definitely wasn't your fault : Have you looked at Hagerty? I haven't purchased insurance in about 4yrs but I recall you can build your own policy? On other news, TPM got my Nexens here in 2 biz days w/ free shipping! Can't wait to try them out, might hit up Laguna Sunday if NCRC has any open spots. Anyone else going? Would love to share a garage...
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07-27-2022, 12:07 PM | #21767 |
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Saving money on track insurance is a very good excuse for attending more events.
I think OpenTrack also offers a thing where you can purchase insurance with a group of people that covers everyone and their cars. If you have a group, it's an option for saving more money, but claims would affect everyone else.
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07-27-2022, 12:09 PM | #21768 | ||
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I'll be there Sunday
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07-27-2022, 12:53 PM | #21769 | |||
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QQ for NorCal folks.... It's my first time at Laguna in the E92 so I'm worried about sound even with the 103dB limit. I have a resonated X-Pipe with a POS Megan muffler (it came on the car) but it's fairly loud. Think Laguna Pipes are necessary? Anyone know the distance of the microphone for dB testing from the actual track? Might run some tests on the street at WOT with one of those dB reader apps. I'm going to sign up shortly! I'll ping you and we can meet up Sunday morning.
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07-27-2022, 01:36 PM | #21770 | ||||
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Attached is a pic for scale. 103 is really loud though.
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07-27-2022, 02:16 PM | #21771 |
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If it's a 103 day you should be totally fine
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07-27-2022, 02:36 PM | #21772 |
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Hagerty / RLI for me was always $278 at Laguna, then recently increased to $324. $60k, no mods. I think I put 10% deductible.
I've heard a lot of people prefer open track and you can stack cars on a single policy.
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07-27-2022, 03:16 PM | #21773 | |||||
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Either way I'll probably fab up some Laguna Pipes since I'm sure I'll need them for future events. I should be fine at the 103dB day though.
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07-27-2022, 03:32 PM | #21774 | |
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07-27-2022, 04:08 PM | #21775 | ||
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8 laps per session x 5 session = 40 laps per day x 5 - 6 days = 200 - 240 laps. I get 5ish days.
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07-27-2022, 05:58 PM | #21776 |
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Electrical question for the group: Having charging/voltage issues. Difficulties starting car lasr fall. Originally thought it was a battery so I replaced it with an original type AGM battery. Good for a short time but problems returned at Mid Ohio in May. Slowing crank throughout the weekend until it lit up the dash with lights and stranded me in Park in the grid line for a 40min session. Unhooked and rehooked the battery, packed up and it got me home. OK, must be the alternator. Replaced it with OEM (not rebuilt). Bought foxwell scanner for codes. Cleared lots of codes. Ran relatively well for a day and it went back to throwing enough codes to light a Christmas tree. Took new alternator out again to have tested and of course it passed (as did the original alternator). Had battery tested, low on charge but healthy. One of my favorite codes: "alternator not found". Ordered replacement alternator in case it was a deffective. And of course same results. Voltage (after charging battery) 12.9V and drops with lights an AC. Does increase slightly when revving engine and driving but only to about 13V max. Took it to the track over the weekend hoping the new alternator would make it and had the charge battery between every run (did at least get PB lap) Does anyone have a recommendation before I drive it into a lake in frustration?
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07-27-2022, 06:00 PM | #21777 | |||
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2X Thunderhill East 1X Sears Point 3X Laguna Seca Front DTC60 pads (ST-60 Trophy). Maybe could have squeezed a 7th day, but the last session of day 6 the pedal started to feel different so I switched to new pads for the next event and everything felt back to normal. Pad material thickness was equal to the backing plate, so that will likely be my benchmark to go to new pads.
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07-27-2022, 06:35 PM | #21778 | |
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07-27-2022, 07:25 PM | #21779 | |
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Another possible culprit is the big red power cable behind the main fuse box inside your glove box. Look for discoloration on the shielding of the cable, especially at the fuse box end. We've been seeing this happen more frequently as the car ages. |
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07-27-2022, 08:11 PM | #21780 | |||
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RLI underwrites for Lockton and Hagerty. Might as well go directly to them. I want to mention that they distinguish mods and the mods have more weight to raise the daily rate. For example, my E90: $50k M3 was $285, where $35k M3 + $15k mods to $50k total was $448. This is listed during the quote: Quote:
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