Track forum general chit chat.

[roastbeef]

The bolts are bonded in. They are a lost cause unless you want to trim them. The big countersunk boi in the tow hook base goes all the way back to be flush with the crash bar base. You have to have a Allen key in it to get the bolt off, so the crash bar has to come off. It's about 10mm longer than oem, but still less weight. I may try to trim it because it's bugging me.
I have six more of the M12's for the front crash bar, plus two for the center exhaust mount at the differential.

[roastbeef]

The base comes off easily, and that's the next project.
Hardware for the lower air box mount is also going on, as well as the expansion tank and power steering hardware.
I forgot to get the center strut brace bolt off at the firewall, but it's a decent size and will be in the next order.

[M3MPH1S]

Originally Posted by kpewpew

Great - I'm running Vibra-Technics' "fast road" (not full race) motor mounts. Based on what you shared, it seems like I've got a list to look at - are the hardness numbers correct? I assume you went with 95A for transmission and diff.

Revshift transmission mount - 80A or 95A?
https://www.revshift.com/product-p/ptm-e9xm.htm

AKG 95A diff mount
https://www.akgmotorsport.com/produc...yurethane-95a/

Subframe: I'll pick a solid one, maybe Turner

I went with 75D (aka delrin) for the motor and trans mounts because I wanted something as hard as possible that still had a tiny bit of "give" (from the perspective of an engine shaking around at 8k rpms). I would suggest 95A if you don't mind a bit of mechanical engine noise, 80A otherwise.

I went solid metal for the diff and would NOT recommend that for a street car, 95A will be plenty stiff.

[kyippee]

Originally Posted by M3MPH1S

I went with 75D (aka delrin) for the motor and trans mounts because I wanted something as hard as possible that still had a tiny bit of "give" (from the perspective of an engine shaking around at 8k rpms). I would suggest 95A if you don't mind a bit of mechanical engine noise, 80A otherwise.

I went solid metal for the diff and would NOT recommend that for a street car, 95A will be plenty stiff.

thank you! I think I'll do 80A on transmission and try to dig around for something 80A-like for diff. Still planning solid on rear subframe. Car's not stripped yet, so still tip-toeing the line on full race parts.

I would very warmly welcome any recommendations to minimize NVH for the diff mount while providing OE or better mounting!

[StripclubDJ]

Hey beef, find me some sun roof bolts please

[roastbeef]

get a makrolon sunroof. when you want the wind in your hair, but need to go fast.

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

get a makrolon sunroof. when you want the wind in your hair, but need to go fast.

Ima just get a e93
I'm over having a roof

[roastbeef]

yea you can be one of those e93 guys that gets all butthurt when people mention the weight.

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

yea you can be one of those e93 guys that gets all butthurt when people mention the weight.

See That's where you're wrong, because I'm
Gonna Titanium bolt the whole mu' fuckin thang and show these e93 guys how it's done

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

get a makrolon sunroof. when you want the wind in your hair, but need to go fast.

A makrolon sunroof would look sweet.





I may replace my poorly painted N15 fender vents with makrolons too.

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

A makrolon sunroof would look sweet.

Attachment 2272799



I may replace my poorly painted N15 fender vents with makrolons too.

Attachment 2272804

Lmao

[roastbeef]

anyone know how much space there is between the gas tank and the rear seat tub?

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

anyone know how much space there is between the gas tank and the rear seat tub?

Zero

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

anyone know how much space there is between the gas tank and the rear seat tub?

Ask my drill bits how they know lmao

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

Ask my drill bits how they know lmao

welp, i'll just put my thoughts into text- i was thinking about moving the audio amp and communication box from the rear of the car into the rear seat tubs and doing some sort of bracket. then doing some sort of floor (maybe not the floor).

on the other hand, i'm not going to be tracking very much over the next year or so, so there isn't a huge push to get rid of the radio. so all this moving stuff and taking out usable amenities isn't really needed.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

Ima just get a e93
I'm over having a roof

Tired of a roof?? This might be the car for you!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...7773626156747/

[Ximian]

Who else has a new ST60 kit? The PFC pads are pad shape 7793 while the StopTech street pads they ship with the kit is DR11. They're very close but the 7793 is several mm taller. BW thinks this shouldn't be a problem when mounted but I'm not convinced.

Other than jacksonE92 who else is has the PFC pads on the ST60 BBK? What other pads are out there for the kit?

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by Ximian

Who else has a new ST60 kit? The PFC pads are pad shape 7793 while the StopTech street pads they ship with the kit is DR11. They're very close but the 7793 is several mm taller. BW thinks this shouldn't be a problem when mounted but I'm not convinced.

who else is has the PFC pads on the ST60 BBK? What other pads are out there for the kit?

I have this kit and ran DTC-70's last season and running Pagid RSL-29 (have not test fit yet) this season.

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

welp, i'll just put my thoughts into text- i was thinking about moving the audio amp and communication box from the rear of the car into the rear seat tubs and doing some sort of bracket. then doing some sort of floor (maybe not the floor).

on the other hand, i'm not going to be tracking very much over the next year or so, so there isn't a huge push to get rid of the radio. so all this moving stuff and taking out usable amenities isn't really needed.

You could probably use the center seat belt latch anchor points to build a nice stout bracket to hang everything off of, those are designed to take 2000+lb of force in a collision and use IIRC an M12 or M10 bolt and that's enough titanium to hang a small building from, you'll need to use carbon and honeycomb material for the bracket, obviously, or GTFO, and then just use HD foam between the bracket and the floor to fight gravity.

[dparm]

Question about R888R lifespan: I'm at the wear bars and am wondering if these can be run down to the cords. From what I've read on various forums, the answer is yes.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by dparm

Question about R888R lifespan: I'm at the wear bars and am wondering if these can be run down to the cords. From what I've read on various forums, the answer is yes.

I ran all my tires to the cords, including the R888R.

[Shmelgy]

roastbeef slicer

I picked up my car from Racewerkz yesterday and have some weights for you guys.

Stock radiator fan- 10.62lbs
Spal fan- between 2 and 3 lbs
For those wondering, the Spal fan is part # 30100400

The complete electric power steering pump conversion only saves 4lbs because the electric pump is actually heavier. The electric pump used is from a Mercedes A class (W168) which was impossible to find new. I settled on a refurbished one I found on eBay.

The total savings ended up being 30lbs off the nose because the A/C compressor was finally able to be removed since it shares a pulley with the stock power steering.

I'm going to willow springs on Friday, but from the quick drive around the block, the steering feels heavier. Added bonus-the fan and pump are routed to some new switches on the dash! #race

Pics- new pump with custom bracket, old fan plus weight, new fan's box