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02-27-2023, 03:31 PM | #22705 | ||
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I convinced him to buy it in early March 2020 with the promise that "if you don't like it, I promise you won't lose money on it". Best possible time before the supercar explosion with the financial wackiness of Covid. Now it's worth like 30k more (Loaded, PTS). and it took a ton of work to get him off the desire for a high HP turbo. Unless you do tons of custom work, turbos ain't like they used to be. Lag used to be kinda desirable. Turbos aren't even available with manuals unless you get that ridiculous 300k Sport Classic with the 7 speed. I guess what I'm saying is, it's great. It's not $230k great. But yeah, the speed district GT3 guys generally rule, super fast, and I get their desire for them. The GT cars just work and don't quit. Quote:
They are like ice unless driven hard though. Needs heavy braking for ~5 mins Last edited by chocstraw; 02-27-2023 at 03:44 PM.. |
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02-27-2023, 09:48 PM | #22706 |
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I don't know what you guys are talking about... I track my cars and my M3 is much slower than my GT3.. Wait. I don't have a GT3, I only dream of one.
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02-28-2023, 06:36 PM | #22707 |
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I wish the track forums were merged into one group. I'll now be posting across E9X, F8X, and F87 😅, but this area has probably got the most in-depth discussion around tires. I'd like to get some experienced input to offset my inexperience as I try to understand why I was slower and why my tire wear is worse on a supposedly fast tire.
Background I recently tried out a set of Goodyear SC3 R for a weekend and was a bit surprised by the tire. Surprised in that I was a hair slower than my PB on worn RE-71RS of the same 275/35-18 size with the exact same setup. The Goodyears were more consistent but never felt quite as grippy, especially at the front end. Looking at the wear, the outside shoulder looks a bit knackered. Even though I was about .5s slower, I spent most of my time about 1-1.5s off that PB. For comparisons sake Hot pressures: SC3 R at ~36psi / RE-71RS at ~35psi Ambient temps: 58º / 64ºF. COTA lap times: 2:29.8 / 2:29.3 Car setup F87 M2 comp 14k fr 12k rr spring (true coilover) CS Racing bars set to soft -3.2º fr / -2.3º rr camber 0mm fr / .15mm rr toe 7º fr caster Smidge of rake, corner balanced, and no aero Pics of the SC3 R after 1 weekend (don't have pics of the RE-71RS but they wore pretty well) Front left (front right is basically a mirror) Rears (left on left, right on right) So why was I slower and what's with that front wear?
I've got your basic Aim Solo2 DL/Smarty cam setup so can likely answer data questions if asked. I appreciate any thoughts or input! 👏🏻 🙇🏻*♂️ Last edited by M1500Z; 03-02-2023 at 11:29 AM.. |
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02-28-2023, 06:42 PM | #22708 |
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do you have a pic of the sidewall marker?
my one time experience with S3 at 36F and 34PSI hot temp on a full weight E92 M3, on a technical track like BW in SoCal, i think for COTA you might want to start at a higher cold temp... with a slightly higher hot temp due to more extended high speeds? although im barely a sub 2 guy at BW so my experience isn't much...
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03-01-2023, 10:15 AM | #22709 | |
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03-01-2023, 11:34 AM | #22710 |
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SC3R is substantially faster. You just weren’t using the tire’s potential. Perhaps you weren’t getting them up to temp and getting less than peak grip from them as a result. The SC3R is a bit different from the other “street” tire offerings.
Also, sounds like you were struggling with understeer, so blasting the already susceptible outside should could make sense from that, particularly if you have the tires running at preset cold (i.e. low) pressures during that. You have to build up temp before sending it on a slick or slick-like SC3R.
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03-01-2023, 06:20 PM | #22713 |
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They like a different PSI than you’d intuitively expect. Confirmed by 2 other SC3R users when I brought it up. One was a 720s, other was another E92.
One explanation I saw was that they were designed for a heavier car (the Camaro? Don’t remember) one guy told me like 31 cold, and I did that, took a hot temp (don’t remember, sorry), then played w/ PSI and couldn’t beat the original cold / hot combo I tried. Similar to when you set better times with softer suspension settings despite feeling like you aren’t (body roll is good sometimes!) Last edited by chocstraw; 03-01-2023 at 06:28 PM.. |
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03-01-2023, 11:01 PM | #22714 | |||||
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Appreciate the responses and now I'm thinking maybe this would've made more sense in the tire talk thread—too late for that.
As a generalized question, if adding grip, should you be adding camber or increasing roll rate with a bar adjustment? The difference between a 200 and 100tw tire didn't seem like enough to me so I left my setup the same as had been working for me. Quote:
For these SC3 R, I started at 29psi cold to get to that 36ish hot. Quote:
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I definitely read a lot about these tires prior to running them so did all the things because I was worried I'd destroy them by accident.
To get them up to temp, I increased pace to about 80% over the first 2 laps and tried to put heat into the carcass with acceleration and braking, then I'd go for it. They definitely are sketch cold—way more than any 200 I've driven. Quote:
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03-01-2023, 11:30 PM | #22715 | |
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Hint, was probably 10+ different factors and variables resulting in your differing times.
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03-01-2023, 11:49 PM | #22716 | |
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03-02-2023, 05:47 AM | #22717 |
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M1500Z
I want to see your throttle application vs location in the turn. for example, if the high grip SC3R led you to brake later, not fully rotating your car, and lazy applying the throttle on exit as a result, it will add lap time. This is one example on what I am looking for. You wanted to know the difference between the two tires. I would want to start by looking at how you drove differently. To make my point, if Sir L. Hamilton drove your car with SC3R vs you driving your car with 71RS, I am sure he will be quicker because he drives differently and the data would show how he drives differently. Also, for 100w tires you have to generate more heat for them to be more stiky than 200tw tire. theoritically if you drove the same, you will have less traction with the 100tw tire. It is a very complex topic. I have been down the tires rubbit hole for few years now. Perhaps I can help. |
03-02-2023, 09:21 AM | #22718 |
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I noticed in the G8X track prep video, they specify to remove the water guards on the brake ducts before track use:
I checked on my E92 and it also has these duct rain guards with the same two screw removal. I'm going to try running without them on the track next session and see if that helps my front pad wear. At the moment, I'm wearing through the fronts (PFC 08) twice as fast as the rears. I'm running a stock car at the moment and this might help improve pad wear without going to GT4 style ducting. |
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03-02-2023, 10:19 AM | #22719 | |
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03-02-2023, 10:51 AM | #22721 |
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No joke, really.
I'm genuinely curious how he can interrupt tire wear based on data, accurately. In my experience, two tires will always require different pressures & alignments to wear evenly. What worked for you with the 71RS I'm not surprised to hear is not working as well with the Goodyears. Most of your photos won't load for me, so I can't offer much insight. |
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03-02-2023, 11:36 AM | #22722 | |||
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03-02-2023, 11:59 AM | #22723 | |
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Edit: although you can find understeer in data and then look at inputs (throttle and steering angle) to see its driver induced which would signify push dragging the tire and thus accelerated wear. Or am I thinking about it wrong?
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03-02-2023, 01:08 PM | #22724 | |
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My G80 gets filled with garbage and dead bugs because there's air intake ducts behind those covers. Removing them does reduce temperatures on track.
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03-02-2023, 03:13 PM | #22726 | |
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https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_5862 I haven't poked around yet to find out. |
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