Paint Correction Strategy - Please Help

[MahiC]

Products don't really matter. It's how much you use, and speed/pressure of the polisher which is really going to make the difference. This is why it's beneficial to do different test areas at different amounts of speeds/liquids. Even thought it will take more time, you'll see what works best on your paint, and end up with an overall better result.

[bmwm3s65]

I have a question, i've looked at a lot of car polishing videos and i am trying to confirm the polishing/buffing process. is the process normally wash>ironx>clay>wash>polish>buff out scratches>re-polish those areas? or buff the whole car then polish the whole car? i am putting together my own kit to start doing this on my m3 after i practice on my ford edge.

[JPWEraser]

Originally Posted by bmwm3s65

I have a question, i've looked at a lot of car polishing videos and i am trying to confirm the polishing/buffing process. is the process normally wash>ironx>clay>wash>polish>buff out scratches>re-polish those areas? or buff the whole car then polish the whole car? i am putting together my own kit to start doing this on my m3 after i practice on my ford edge.

Kinda. Buffing and polishing are really the same thing these days, especially when it's not a new clear job.

Strip/chemical decon > wash > clay > wash if needed > polish > wash if needed (only if significant dusting exists) > lsp

[bmwm3s65]

Originally Posted by JPWEraser

Kinda. Buffing and polishing are really the same thing these days, especially when it's not a new clear job.

Strip/chemical decon > wash > clay > wash if needed > polish > wash if needed (only if significant dusting exists) > lsp

I apologize ahead of time if i am making this confusing, but i wanted to clarify the polishing process. During the polish process, would you normally A.) use a higher cutting polish on the whole car with a orange pad, then a finishing polish with a white pad on the whole car or B.) use finishing polish on whole car with white pad, then if needed, a more aggressive cutting polish for scratches and paint discrepancies with orange pad, then followed by a finishing polish on those areas with white pad? Basically do most people use a finishing polish and pad first and more aggressive polish and pad if necessary, or the latter?

[JPWEraser]

No apology necessary. It's far better to ask questions than to make a costly mistake.

I ALWAYS recommend to go as non aggressive as possible first. You have to remember that every time you polish you are removing small amounts of clear coat. If you go unnecessarily aggressive you are shortening the life of your finish overall.

I would go with a mid-low grit polish with a green pad to start. Not a glazing finish but slightly more coarse than a finishing polish. Most times that is enough to achieve the desired results but it might take more than one pass.

Do a test area first to see how it comes out and if you need to get more aggressive then move up to an orange pad and more course polish. You will likely have to go back over the area with the lighter combo to remove hazing/marring.

Hope this gives you what you're looking for.

[bmwm3s65]

Originally Posted by JPWEraser

No apology necessary. It's far better to ask questions than to make a costly mistake.

I ALWAYS recommend to go as non aggressive as possible first. You have to remember that every time you polish you are removing small amounts of clear coat. If you go unnecessarily aggressive you are shortening the life of your finish overall.

I would go with a mid-low grit polish with a green pad to start. Not a glazing finish but slightly more coarse than a finishing polish. Most times that is enough to achieve the desired results but it might take more than one pass.

Do a test area first to see how it comes out and if you need to get more aggressive then move up to an orange pad and more course polish. You will likely have to go back over the area with the lighter combo to remove hazing/marring.

Hope this gives you what you're looking for.

that helps, thanks for the info!

[SoCalRPM]

Originally Posted by bmwm3s65

that helps, thanks for the info!

Yep! No stupid questions - always good to ask so you don't actually make stupid mistakes.

I agree with what is said above. Always start with the least aggressive method first to see if that works. Compounding and polishing are inherently removing a certain amount of your car's clear coat. You always want to avoid removing more than is necessary.

Try some experimentation. I would start with a finishing polish on a cutting pad for moderate defects. Something like Sonax Perfect Finish and an Orange Hex pad. Use the DA on a small test area (that's been properly prepped), then buff off the residue with a microfiber and inspect the area.

If you're satisfied with the results, then good. Do the rest of the car this way.

If not, try something slightly more aggressive like a cutting polish and either the same pad or a slightly more aggressive pad.

Whenever you're happy, stop there and complete the rest of the car. Don't use more aggressive products than needed.

Also, manage your expectations. Are you trying to perfect the car to a showroom ready finish? Or will you be more than happy with getting the car 80% of the way there?

Enjoy!

[bmwm3s65]

Originally Posted by cclinard1

This is my process...

Wash - 2 bucket system...Chemical Guys Mr Pink soap with Torq Foam Cannon

Wheels - Chemical Guys Diablo Wheel gel with Chemical Guys Wheel Whoolies

Using the Griot's Garage 6" orbital for below...

Paint decontaminate - Nanoskin Autoscrub Fine Grade with Nanoskin Glide and Nanoskin Fine grade sponge in tight areas

Compound - Meguiars M105 with Chemical Guys Hex Logic Orange pad

Polish - Meguiars M205 with Chemical Guys Hex Logic White pad

Glaze - Chemical Guys EZ Crème Glaze with Chemical Guys Hex Logic Blue Pad

Paint Sealant - Jescar (Mezerna) Power Lock Plus Polymer Sealant with Chemical Guys Black Pad

Wax - Chemical Guys Butter wax with Chemical Guys Red pad

Quick detail - Chemical Guys Hybrid V7 Optical High Gloss Spray Sealant/Quick Detailer

i am getting ready to finally paint correct since i have a little more time and not to beat a dead horse, but using the example above, the compound step, this step is only used where needed, on panels and spots that need to be corrected, the polish,glaze and sealant steps are used on the whole car, correct?

[cclinard1]

Originally Posted by bmwm3s65

i am getting ready to finally paint correct since i have a little more time and not to beat a dead horse, but using the example above, the compound step, this step is only used where needed, on panels and spots that need to be corrected, the polish,glaze and sealant steps are used on the whole car, correct?

Yes, that's correct.

[Wally1552]

I just did this on my 11 e90 Jerez black car. Mine looked similar to yours san the deeper scratches. Check my post for what I used and what I learned my first time doing anything like this. YouTube is amazing for knowledge.

Also wish I read this thread before I did my car. I think sonax perfect finish would have been enough instead of compounding (jescar) the whole car. Nothing bad happened paint looks amazing but they are right about going as minimally invasive on the clear coat as possible.

[91foxbody]

Originally Posted by Wally1552

I just did this on my 11 e90 Jerez black car. Mine looked similar to yours san the deeper scratches. Check my post for what I used and what I learned my first time doing anything like this. YouTube is amazing for knowledge.

Also wish I read this thread before I did my car. I think sonax perfect finish would have been enough instead of compounding (jescar) the whole car. Nothing bad happened paint looks amazing but they are right about going as minimally invasive on the clear coat as possible.

I just spent 4 days doing my AW E90, Sonax was not enough to finish out this kind of stuff. I did compounding with Jescar and Rupes yellow pads, but I really should have used a microfiber pad for a little more cut.