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      10-14-2015, 09:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
These are the stock plug, right?

The ion sensors on mine got corroded and I dropped 40 HP. New plugs, back to the dyno and BAM, back up to 570 wheel.

I thought maybe it was your dyno but running the 335i confirms you are not making the power you should be. Hope you get it squared away soon.
Thank you Sir. your help is ALWAYS appreciated. Hoping to get mine running like yours soon .
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      10-14-2015, 09:33 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrón View Post
did you already buy the p3 gauge? you are going to love it, it's a great product.
if you haven't i highly recommend buying it from AUTOCOTURE because their p3 has some features that the regular p3 doesn't (AFR, etc...)
its funny you say that, I tried finding 2 used ones both didn't have the AFR. I am aware it was a limited thing. Got a hold of the owner of p3 and he is throwing in the upgraded chip for free. costing me about 399 to my door . Any less someone can beat that haha.
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      10-19-2015, 11:43 PM   #25
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Looking at longbored's dyno from another thread also on a dynojet my car is missing 100WHP pretty much -__-. I changed oil and plugs today. Both looked BRAND spanking new. changed them anyways. I did look at the circulating valve and it has a T vacuum connector, one to the meth module i guess to read boost and one to the back of the motor. Any idea where that goes? i tried to do a vacuum test on it with a hand held pump but it wouldn't hold any pressure.

Below is a picture of the vacuum line i am asking about. One side goes to the Valve and the other end to the back of the motor somewhere. Only difference between mine and this picture is i have a T( which i replaced) to T in the boost gauge i guess for the snow performance meth module. When i unplugged from the valve and put a handheld vacuum pump it holds 0 vacuum. But if i put the pump on the valve it closes with vacuum.
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      10-20-2015, 09:15 AM   #26
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if you put pressure in that line it's supposed to close a valve. you are losing boost through that valve/bypass. the line that goes to the back actually goes under neath the manifold. that is where it gets the vacuum off of. it's my opinion your diverter valve isn't holding boost. I had the same problem due to an installation error and i was losing at least a few pounds of boost, when i reinstalled all of the vacuum lines i gained a significant amount of hp based on my butt dyno. my bypass valve was making an odd fluttering sound (because boost was leaking out of it).

your boost/vacuum gauge will prove all this to you
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      10-20-2015, 09:46 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrón View Post
if you put pressure in that line it's supposed to close a valve. you are losing boost through that valve/bypass. the line that goes to the back actually goes under neath the manifold. that is where it gets the vacuum off of. it's my opinion your diverter valve isn't holding boost. I had the same problem due to an installation error and i was losing at least a few pounds of boost, when i reinstalled all of the vacuum lines i gained a significant amount of hp based on my butt dyno. my bypass valve was making an odd fluttering sound (because boost was leaking out of it).

your boost/vacuum gauge will prove all this to you
Thanks for the reply, I actually tested 2 things. One was hooking up a vacuum line and hand pump to the valve. it closes fine. I then connected the vacuum pump to the line that was coming out of the valve. So from the manifold to the vacuum pump. But it wouldn't hold ANY vacuum is that normal? I guess if it goes inside the manifold its too large of a space to create vacuum no?
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      10-20-2015, 12:53 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
Thanks for the reply, I actually tested 2 things. One was hooking up a vacuum line and hand pump to the valve. it closes fine. I then connected the vacuum pump to the line that was coming out of the valve. So from the manifold to the vacuum pump. But it wouldn't hold ANY vacuum is that normal? I guess if it goes inside the manifold its too large of a space to create vacuum no?
if that valve closes fine, then i'm stumped...
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      10-21-2015, 02:50 PM   #29
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Anyone know what's target boost on the 625 package ? 7?
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      10-21-2015, 03:06 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
Anyone know what's target boost on the 625 package ? 7?
according to their website 6.5-7.0 PSI
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      10-21-2015, 03:07 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedE93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
Anyone know what's target boost on the 625 package ? 7?
according to their website 6.5-7.0 PSI
I'm hitting 6.1 from what I can see . Wish there was a way to log the damn thing
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      10-21-2015, 03:12 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
I'm hitting 6.1 from what I can see . Wish there was a way to log the damn thing
Your best option to sort your setup out would be to take Alekshop's advice and log boost on a dynojet and send the file to Roman or AJ. They'll be able to tell whether everything is working properly.
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      10-21-2015, 03:13 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81bear
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
I'm hitting 6.1 from what I can see . Wish there was a way to log the damn thing
Your best option to sort your setup out would be to take Alekshop's advice and log boost on a dynojet and send the file to Roman or AJ. They'll be able to tell whether everything is working properly.
Going to redyno as soon as I get my cable for ess and reflash the car with their software to illuminate that variable .
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      10-21-2015, 03:25 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
Going to redyno as soon as I get my cable for ess and reflash the car with their software to illuminate that variable .
That's the ticket! Don't stress or invest anymore cash into fixing the perceived issue until you re dyno and send to ESS for evaluation.

Good Luck man!
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      10-21-2015, 03:27 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
I'm hitting 6.1 from what I can see . Wish there was a way to log the damn thing
your sig says AA full exhaust. does it have any cats or resonators?
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      10-21-2015, 03:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrón
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
I'm hitting 6.1 from what I can see . Wish there was a way to log the damn thing
your sig says AA full exhaust. does it have any cats or resonators?
I'm pretty sure it has some highflow cats.
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      10-21-2015, 04:07 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81bear View Post
Your best option to sort your setup out would be to take Alekshop's advice and log boost on a dynojet and send the file to Roman or AJ. They'll be able to tell whether everything is working properly.
Do not send the file to me as I no longer work at ESS But yes you should send your dyno with boost and AFR logs to ESS for review if you believe there might be an issue.
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      10-21-2015, 08:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
I'm pretty sure it has some highflow cats.
You may lose a little boost with an after market exhaust and any cat deletes.
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      10-21-2015, 08:49 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rom3n
Quote:
Originally Posted by 81bear View Post
Your best option to sort your setup out would be to take Alekshop's advice and log boost on a dynojet and send the file to Roman or AJ. They'll be able to tell whether everything is working properly.
Do not send the file to me as I no longer work at ESS But yes you should send your dyno with boost and AFR logs to ESS for review if you believe there might be an issue.
My hopes are gone
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      10-21-2015, 08:52 PM   #40
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Why would I lose boost with an aftermarket exhaust ? I think almost every one with a s/c m3 has an after market exhaust AA or Akrapovic
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      10-21-2015, 10:09 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown__m3 View Post
Why would I lose boost with an aftermarket exhaust ? I think almost every one with a s/c m3 has an after market exhaust AA or Akrapovic
Less back pressure. Which is a good thing.
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      10-22-2015, 07:32 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sales@Alekshop View Post
You should log boost while on the dyno. Without a boost reference you will have no idea if the hardware is working as intended and you will be guessing. On a dynojet with fair ambient temps you should be in the 520-530 whp on average. Water Meth will not make a lot of power on these cars. You can maybe expect +10 whp at most if it is hot enough out but at 85 deg I would not imagine it would make much of a difference on the dyno.

If you do not know the history of the car you should make sure you have the latest version of software from ESS.
This^^^

Also wouldn't hurt to log your ignition timing through the run to see if its pulling timing. How new are the spark plugs and were the O2 sensors changed when installing the S/C kits?
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      10-22-2015, 07:42 AM   #43
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If you still have that ECS tune that is your issue. It's a mail order tune. it's conservative and safe. Get a custom tune done by TTFS and you will see those numbers come up. You're trouble shooting the car assuming it's missing something but in reality it's going to end up being the tune on the car. A buddy of mine just installed the same kit on a well maintained e90 with rod bearings replaced and it made the same numbers as you with that mail order tune.
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      10-22-2015, 09:41 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sered View Post
This^^^

Also wouldn't hurt to log your ignition timing through the run to see if its pulling timing. How new are the spark plugs and were the O2 sensors changed when installing the S/C kits?
I replaced the spark plugs this week. The spark plugs that were on the car during the dyno were pretty much new. They were still silver. Who ever owned the car before changed them often it looks like.
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