Common E90 problems

[mr_z4mc1m_oz]

Hi there,

I'm potentially looking at purchasing a manual E90 M3 and am curious about what other issues to be mindful, apart from the rod bearing and throttle actuator.

Thanks in advance.

[perth1]

Originally Posted by mr_130i_oz

Hi there,
I'm potentially looking at purchasing a manual E90 M3 and am curious about what other issues to be mindful,

SPARE PARTS PRICES are astronomical for the M3 models, its like standard E90 prices, but with another 0 added.

It is of some comfort however that you can get parts from overseas at slightly better prices than here in Australia. I have ordered some new parts from Eastern Europe. It takes weeks, but the parts I have received from there have been 100% genuine, and at nearly half price.

Cheers,

[MJBO]

I wanted a new OEM badge for my bootlid, BMW parts was well over $100

What's even more wacky is it's barely any more expensive than somewhere like FCP Euro, which wanted almost $30 for the postage. For a badge.

[sct911]

a/c compressor, szl(steering angle sensor) unit, abs/dsc unit

[Heyeug]

Originally Posted by mr_130i_oz

Hi there,

I'm potentially looking at purchasing a manual E90 M3 and am curious about what other issues to be mindful, apart from the rod bearing and throttle actuator.

Thanks in advance.

Rear diff.... Rare but it happens. When you test drive make sure you do U turns or drive around a roundabout. If you hear clunking/grinding/thumping noises, then maybe you've got a lemon. However, it has been reported that the e9x diffs are a little noisy, but it shouldn't be too loud...

When I bought mine, I could hear noises but not super loud, after a diff oil changeover, the sound was gone!

[BMWM3TS]

Originally Posted by mr_130i_oz

Hi there,

I'm potentially looking at purchasing a manual E90 M3 and am curious about what other issues to be mindful, apart from the rod bearing and throttle actuator.

Thanks in advance.

Parts can be expensive locally. Best to stockpile servicing parts and dollar cost average your shipping fcp are probable the best delivered place to buy. Oem Brake discs are pretty expensive.
Just a view but wasted opportunity if your into sheer driving pleasure without spending additional coin on m3 e9x and putti;ng on a xpipe exhaust with lower cel cats, tune ( bugger all up increase in hp but better throttle response with the exhaust , after market air filter for some more induction noise and a dct tune. 3rd to 2nd gear downshift is where it is all at with those mods at least in dct. Id code out the coldstart particularly if you live close to you neighbours. Bit of a sleeper with the 4 doors as well. Really a waste of time owning one stock as I see it just pick your exhaust wisely. Fuel economy is horrendous but it hat older school v8 Na isnt. Very good bang forfor buck overall when tinkeredith. I would allow 60k all up FOR a dct including major servings and mods. ( ROD BEARINGS AND THROTTLE BODIE!S I can also recommend kw height adjustible springs to get rid of that 4x4 qqok. I have space grey but reckon white with black rims is the best color combo and in a manual may be a bit of a unicorn. Smart move buying a manual with the 4 doors potentially in the future.

[BMWM3TS]

Originally Posted by MJBO

I wanted a new OEM badge for my bootlid, BMW parts was well over $100

What's even more wacky is it's barely any more expensive than somewhere like FCP Euro, which wanted almost $30 for the postage. For a badge.

Each to their own but from the US I reckon fcp are the best in the business for postage but I would never buy just a badge from them. Eg i used to order always close to the 1000 duties threshold with shipping included. Eg if I needed a badge I would wait or order brake pads, oil filters plugs wipers, oil drain plugs and see what fluids I could buy and where the tipping point is on additional shipping for the next couple of services.

[JJH]

I'm sure you've done your research but some of those already mentioned are typical of the potential issues. The RBs and TAs you mentioned are the main ones often discussed. All that aside, you'll never regret getting yourself in one, that's for sure. Take your time to find one that suits you - colour, options, etc. as they're out there and now seems a great time to buy. Just make sure of the history, particularly regular oil changes. I think a full inspection is a must and if it checks out, go for it!

Then come back and tell us all about it!

[mr_z4mc1m_oz]

Haha thanks. I have a Z4MCoupe and a 130i, so it would be to replace the 130i if I pull the trigger.

[Rajvosa]

Originally Posted by mr_130i_oz

Haha thanks. I have a Z4MCoupe and a 130i, so it would be to replace the 130i if I pull the trigger.

What’s the specs of the 130i? I’m currently looking for a daily and that’s on the list too. Pm me if you like

[XIX]

Originally Posted by Rajvosa

What’s the specs of the 130i? I’m currently looking for a daily and that’s on the list too. Pm me if you like

Why not just drive the M ? The non Ms arent that cheap to maintain and once you factor dep, license, insurance etc is it worth it ?

[Rajvosa]

Originally Posted by XIX

Why not just drive the M ? The non Ms arent that cheap to maintain and once you factor dep, license, insurance etc is it worth it ?

few reasons, the main being daily (gets driven about 3 times per week) needs to be auto for when the wife takes it and i got family car with baby seats...

[XIX]

Originally Posted by Rajvosa

few reasons, the main being daily (gets driven about 3 times per week) needs to be auto for when the wife takes it and i got family car with baby seats...

Ahhh , yeh the stick shift is a bummer.

Cant go wrong with a BMW straight 6