Yep another one of these: looking at a E90 M3

[PiZauL]

Hello all! Man it fees amazing to be back on this forum. I used to be a frequent member here and owned an E90 325 and 335, and an F80 M3. I loved all these cars and am looking to get back into an M3. I've always had a love for the E90 M3 and was between that and the F80 M3 a few years ago, and settled on an F80 as at that time it was to be a daily driver and it seemed that the F80 would have been the better choice for that purpose. Well it ended up that as much as I loved that car, it just didn't feel right to me as I was missing the intoxicating sound of the motor and exhaust note. So a few years ago I sold it and bought a 2018 Mustang GT350, which I absolutely love. So now I would like to add a E90 M3 to the stable, neither will be daily drivers (I have a Model 3 Performance as the daily) .

With all that said, I have found a 2011 E90 M3 Base DCT w/124k miles that was once on BaT, didn't sell as buyer backed out due to finances, and it ended up in a dealership 400 miles away from me. I know the market is totally out of whack, but they initially listed it crazy high to try and take advantage of the market so it has been sitting and they have dropped the price to $22.8k. The car looks solid from all the pictures, was a Chicago car so it was in the salt zone. From what I gather seems these go for 25-40k depending on miles, spec and if RB/TA done.

But here are my thoughts on it and I was wondering what the community thought on if this is a good deal? I'd 100% do a PPI before flying out there to take a look and purchase and drive back home.

The Good:
-Solid maintenance record, regular oil changes
-One Owner and 100% stock
-TA, Valve Cover Gasket, Idle Control Valve, DCT maintenance done recently
-A prior listing says suspension components were replaced, would get clarification on that
-Flawless Interior
-Exterior appears in decent shape

The Bad:
-RB's not replaced, i'd take it to get done right away
-2 Minor fender benders on carfax
-Chicago car all it's life, maintenance record shows owner went to dealer every season to swap wheels so it def got a taste of salt but undercarriage, looks ok in pics
-Some curb rash on rims (would get new rims anyway)

Appreciate any feedback!

[Cmassey3]

-TA, Valve Cover Gasket, Idle Control Valve, DCT maintenance done recently

This is good news, I'd say it's worth a look.


Maybe see what info you can get on the fender benders. My e92 would technically show up in a similar way but that's because I filed an insurance claim when the mail carrier scratched my door in an apartment parking lot.

Insurance claimed = damage reported

I also had mine repaired at a BMW certified shop and that would be worth looking into to see if this one has been handled in a similar way. Some colors are very tricky to paint match with Interlagos Blue and Jerez Black being the more notable ones.

[PiZauL]

Originally Posted by Cmassey3

-TA, Valve Cover Gasket, Idle Control Valve, DCT maintenance done recently

This is good news, I'd say it's worth a look.


Maybe see what info you can get on the fender benders. My e92 would technically show up in a similar way but that's because I filed an insurance claim when the mail carrier scratched my door in an apartment parking lot.

Insurance claimed = damage reported

I also had mine repaired at a BMW certified shop and that would be worth looking into to see if this one has been handled in a similar way. Some colors are very tricky to paint match with Interlagos Blue and Jerez Black being the more notable ones.

Here's the BaT posting for the car that is very thorough. Seems 2 side swipes with one being minor. Since I am buying to enjoy and not for an investment it doesn't really bother me as long as it was fixed correctly.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2011-bmw-m3-sedan-31/

[Cmassey3]

Originally Posted by PiZauL

Here's the BaT posting for the car that is very thorough. Seems 2 side swipes with one being minor. Since I am buying to enjoy and not for an investment it doesn't really bother me as long as it was fixed correctly.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2011-bmw-m3-sedan-31/

From the comments:

"The first ” accident” noted on the carfax was a driver in a turn lane just kissing the LF wheel and fender. Wheel was repaired and the LF fender was refinished. The second was the vehicle next to the car making contact with the RR wheel backing out next to the car while stationary. Both Sub-$1000 repairs. The owner had some colorful words to express his aggravation for the above motorists’ stupidity and was shocked to learn both incidents were noted as ” accidents” on the CARFAX. Rightfully so! Unfortunately a police report will always result to a ding on the carfax. I’ve added paint meter readings to all panels as a reference for some clarity. confirming original paint. Front and rear bumpers are also free of paintwork. "

I'd say this falls in the acceptable category. It's a shame there's no nuance to repair reporting in CARFAX. From folks in the industry, they've told me to always be skeptical of it anyway, since it only reports when insurance is claimed. This owner could have paid out of pocket at a body shop and the car would never flag damage on the report.

[PiZauL]

Originally Posted by Cmassey3

From the comments:

"The first ” accident” noted on the carfax was a driver in a turn lane just kissing the LF wheel and fender. Wheel was repaired and the LF fender was refinished. The second was the vehicle next to the car making contact with the RR wheel backing out next to the car while stationary. Both Sub-$1000 repairs. The owner had some colorful words to express his aggravation for the above motorists’ stupidity and was shocked to learn both incidents were noted as ” accidents” on the CARFAX. Rightfully so! Unfortunately a police report will always result to a ding on the carfax. I’ve added paint meter readings to all panels as a reference for some clarity. confirming original paint. Front and rear bumpers are also free of paintwork. "

I'd say this falls in the acceptable category. It's a shame there's no nuance to repair reporting in CARFAX. From folks in the industry, they've told be to always be skeptical of it anyway, since it only reports when insurance is claimed. This owner could have paid out of pocket at a body shop and the car would never flag damage on the report.

Yeahhh I found on my mustang the original owner put a claim in to replace the front lip from curb damage (they are $$) but now it shows as a accident on the carfax. I am in talks with the dealer regarding this M3, as one that loves to score the best deal I can, I may offer less and see if we can come to an agreement on price to account for RB's needing to be done (even though they have no idea of the significance of that service). I have this fear of driving it home and the engine going on me, lol.

[kolosy]

that feels like a pretty good price on a clean car. for comparison i bought its twin (2011 non-comp DCT JB/Bamboo) last summer with 140k for 22K. mine also had a bunch of owners and a bunch of mods (i wanted them so it was fine). it did have RBs done, so the differences wash out imo.

[PiZauL]

Originally Posted by kolosy

that feels like a pretty good price on a clean car. for comparison i bought its twin (2011 non-comp DCT JB/Bamboo) last summer with 140k for 22K. mine also had a bunch of owners and a bunch of mods (i wanted them so it was fine). it did have RBs done, so the differences wash out imo.

I did just have them agree to $22k (plus taxes and dealer fees). Only thing rubbing me wrong is they are forcing LoJack on me ($699). I know this method and have refused it with them saying its already applied and tied to VIN. Seems silly to refuse a decent deal like this, thinking not to cave on it and tell them to remove that from the deal.

Just to have it posted, after digging into the car history the notable services are with oil changes not included here but are consistent:
-4/7/12 10,206: Idle Control Valve Replaced (misread that initially thinking it was 100206)
-8/12/16 53,335: Power distribution box replaced, positive battery cable replaced
-11/1/19 90,857: Thermostat and bleeder hose to thermostat replaced
-4/13/20 94,599 Gas tank vent valve replaced
-3/4/21 100,053: DCT Transmission Service
-7/29/21 102,689: Valve cover gaskets replaced
-2/15/22 108,286: Rear pads and rotors replaced
-4/26/22 109,721: Both TA replaced
-8/2/22: 112,386: Brake fluid flush
-4/18/23 120,384: Looks like they replaced valve cover gaskets again under warranty as previously they didn't seal them well

What do you guys think?

[kolosy]

given the double gasket replacement, the valve covers themselves are the issue (which is typical). plan on having to do that again, and installing new (or aftermarket aluminum) covers.

the rest look like good services done by someone who cares about hte car. the lojack thing is stupid, but i just caved to something similar on my X5M -- they forced a $999 ceramic coat + door edge ppf and wouldn't budge on it.

[PiZauL]

Originally Posted by kolosy

given the double gasket replacement, the valve covers themselves are the issue (which is typical). plan on having to do that again, and installing new (or aftermarket aluminum) covers.

the rest look like good services done by someone who cares about hte car. the lojack thing is stupid, but i just caved to something similar on my X5M -- they forced a $999 ceramic coat + door edge ppf and wouldn't budge on it.

Ah, didn't know that. I'd for sure do it right the third time around. If I even run into the problem, given I'll likely drive it about a thousand miles a year.

Yeah there is def pride of ownership on this one. I agree on the lojack, I hate these dealer tactics. I can just throw an airtag into the car for $10 if I wanted to track it... And yep I've had to play that ceramic coating game with dealerships before. I bought my Tesla from a private dealer and they tried to do that, but all my buddies that bought from Tesla said they literally can care less if you buy the car or not and there is 0 pressure which sounds lovely.

[fs34]

I’d pull the trigger. It’s great deal IMO, seems well kept with normal wear and tear.

[PiZauL]

Originally Posted by fs34

I’d pull the trigger. It’s great deal IMO, seems well kept with normal wear and tear.

Working out some logistics! I hate that every single car I ever find is always multiple states away, lol. My biggest setback is dancing between emptying the account paying for it, and possibly just financing half and saving half for maintenance and rod bearings. I'd hate to delay changing those out and it goes poof. Although the issue seems overblown and there are many examples with original bearings out there, with some owners not even knowing its an issue, but I don't like the risk.

[PiZauL]

Oh man PPI came back with no major issues. No leaks or seepage anywhere. Might need new front brakes and tires soon. Some solar sensor code stored, looks like its that little piece in the dash board that might need to be replaced. No biggie. Looks like this might be happening

[PiZauL]

Gonna be ordering all this goodness plus some new spark plugs. Any reason to not get the BE-ARP rod bolts over the ARP rod bolts? Consensus seems split on this when I searched, but sounding like BE-ARP is fine for a engine that will stay stock.

BE-ARP: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...nce-rod-bolts/
ARP: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...3-new-revised/

[Nomad Dave]

Where are you going to have the rod bearing replaced?
Im in Richmond Va, and need to start looking around for
a good shop.

Dave

[PiZauL]

Originally Posted by Nomad Dave

Where are you going to have the rod bearing replaced?
Im in Richmond Va, and need to start looking around for
a good shop.

Dave

Flemming Automotive in Harwood, MD was recommended to me by a few forum members. Tuning Tech in Crofton, MD is my backup if Flemming Automotive can't get me in timely. Pending type of bearings you were looking for, if it was BE those seems to be out of stock until May in every shop I've checked.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by PiZauL

I did just have them agree to $22k (plus taxes and dealer fees). Only thing rubbing me wrong is they are forcing LoJack on me ($699). I know this method and have refused it with them saying its already applied and tied to VIN. Seems silly to refuse a decent deal like this, thinking not to cave on it and tell them to remove that from the deal.

Just to have it posted, after digging into the car history the notable services are with oil changes not included here but are consistent:
-4/7/12 10,206: Idle Control Valve Replaced (misread that initially thinking it was 100206)
-8/12/16 53,335: Power distribution box replaced, positive battery cable replaced
-11/1/19 90,857: Thermostat and bleeder hose to thermostat replaced
-4/13/20 94,599 Gas tank vent valve replaced
-3/4/21 100,053: DCT Transmission Service
-7/29/21 102,689: Valve cover gaskets replaced
-2/15/22 108,286: Rear pads and rotors replaced
-4/26/22 109,721: Both TA replaced
-8/2/22: 112,386: Brake fluid flush
-4/18/23 120,384: Looks like they replaced valve cover gaskets again under warranty as previously they didn't seal them well

What do you guys think?

Apart from rod bearings, parts replaced more than three years ago shouldn't be considered recent and can fail at any moment. ICV changed 12 years means it's overdue to fail again.

Like others mentioned, the valve covers themselves may have issues so a 2 year interval for valve cover gaskets isn't unexpected.

For what it's worth, my car was in the salt zone/rust belt and driven between 2010 and 2016 when I bought it and started storing it over winter. Underside is clean and does not have rust anywhere apart from a few bolts. If rust is easily visible on the underside of the car you're looking at, that would be concerning.

[PiZauL]

Originally Posted by Ximian

Apart from rod bearings, parts replaced more than three years ago shouldn't be considered recent and can fail at any moment. ICV changed 12 years means it's overdue to fail again.

Like others mentioned, the valve covers themselves may have issues so a 2 year interval for valve cover gaskets isn't unexpected.

For what it's worth, my car was in the salt zone/rust belt and driven between 2010 and 2016 when I bought it and started storing it over winter. Underside is clean and does not have rust anywhere apart from a few bolts. If rust is easily visible on the underside of the car you're looking at, that would be concerning.

Yeah I’m expecting some things to pop up during ownership outside the big items, I’ve budgeted for the rod bearings and will have to rebuild the maintenance budget. It won’t be a daily driver so that helps. PPI noted the valve covers themselves looked to be replaced with the gaskets actually and bottom of car was solid thankfully! I’m driving it from NC to MD on Wednesday, let it be a smooth ride!!

[PiZauL]

Reporting live as we speak from the car during my walk around and test drive. Test drive went well! Should this be of concern at the rear?

[kolosy]

any body rust? or just the subframe?

[PiZauL]

Originally Posted by kolosy

any body rust? or just the subframe?

None that I see while crawling around the floor, haha.

[kolosy]

hard to tell from the pic if it's just surface or structural (some spots do look like it's more than just surface), so i'd budget on refreshing the rear end, including at least a sand blast / powder coat for the subframe, at worst a new subframe. that's a few K depending on how involved you get.

[BimmerMan33]

Rear subframe on all E9x is steel & almost always has at least some surface rust even in no snow/salt states if the car was driven in rain..
An E9x driven in snow/salt zone will definitely look like this.. It’s the only underbody part on these cars that rusts!
New rear subframe is just under $1,000 last I checked but is labor intensive..
Not sure if sandblasting/rust proofing at this point would help.. just drive it & replace in the future when needed..