Can anyone identify this sound?

[deansbimmer]

Originally Posted by kooolaid

Did you have to remove the A/C lines on passenger side?

No. Doing so will give more room to work with but it's not necessary with the right tools. You can weasel a wrench between the two refrigerant pipes to loosen the tensioner. It will still try your patience. You'll have to remove the wrench and unscrew it by hand for the last few turns before it springs out, because there won't be enough room to keep the socket on the tensioner while pulling the assembly out. It will hit the pipe.

[Leonardo629]

OP what did Doc OC said? He said driver side replacement made no difference, passenger side one could've been the culprit, he never really updated his progress.

[Doc Oc]

Eventually I got the passenger side one done....made no difference whatsoever unfortunately. My noise was all on startup though...and only cold starts. This guy's got something else going on I think. If tensioners were refusing to hold pressure the noise would be constant imo...not rev dependent.

[Doc Oc]

I had the exact same issue. Engine bed plate needed to be retorqued -- my dealer (Brian Jessel BMW) has seen it happen a few times. I'll see if I can dig up my service order and post a photo of it..

Example of the sounds mine was making:

[/QUOTE]

This is the intermittent clacking noise so many have, but it doesn't sound like the op's rattle at all to me.....

[deansbimmer]

Originally Posted by Doc Oc

Eventually I got the passenger side one done....made no difference whatsoever unfortunately. My noise was all on startup though...and only cold starts. This guy's got something else going on I think. If tensioners were refusing to hold pressure the noise would be constant imo...not rev dependent.

I mentioned before that the tensioners are not a normal failure point because they are metal on metal fit so pressure loss is highly unlikely. There are no O-rings or gaskets to fail, so really the only reason one might stop working is if the block's oil supply is hindered or debris is introduced into one.

I too still think that there is something else going on with his engine.

[Scrippy]

$20 says it's one maybe two of your self adjusting valve box tappets.

[ash4390]

Originally Posted by nick3753

There have been tons of people with that ticking noise and no found diagnosis and fix. I will be interested to hear if it comes back on your car when the weather gets warmer. The ticking had been known to disappear in the winter and return in the spring as temperature heat up. If yours is truly fixed then we shall all rejoice, but doesn't sound like an easy DIY.

Haha you jinxed me! The sound is back with the warmer weather we've been having. I'm taking it in for the battery cable recall on Thursday, I'll point out the sound again. I don't think the bed plate is the issue anymore, it's hard to believe that would need retorquing again after 4000km.

[Heckler]

Originally Posted by kooolaid

Thanks. Just read his thread. I'll try to do it when I replace spark plugs.

kooolaid,

Did you ever get to the bottom of this issue/sound?

I've got a 2011 E90 DCT that is making the same noise as apparently yours and apparently Cwelo who posted the video... I can reproduce it on-demand all-day every-day, easiest for me is 1st gear (manual mode), ~1250 rpm, and ideally an incline/up-hill slope (for the added "load" on the engine)... Can also get it in 2nd, with negligibly higher rpm.

I still have an in-effect extended warranty if I can get a independent/dealer to identify what the issue is...

[Eme 3]

Originally Posted by Heckler

kooolaid,

Did you ever get to the bottom of this issue/sound?

I've got a 2011 E90 DCT that is making the same noise as apparently yours and apparently Cwelo who posted the video... I can reproduce it on-demand all-day every-day, easiest for me is 1st gear (manual mode), ~1250 rpm, and ideally an incline/up-hill slope (for the added "load" on the engine)... Can also get it in 2nd, with negligibly higher rpm.

I still have an in-effect extended warranty if I can get a independent/dealer to identify what the issue is...

Heckler:

Mine is a 2013 with about 35k miles with exactly what you are describing. I'll start with new sparks and keep you informed.

[Cwleo]

Any updates with the spark plug change? My rattling did reduce with the spark plug change but there is still some rattling esp noticeable under load eg during a hill climb. Esp on 2nd gear rpm range of 1800-2000.

Originally Posted by Eme 3

Heckler:

Mine is a 2013 with about 35k miles with exactly what you are describing. I'll start with new sparks and keep you informed.

[m3jala]

Originally Posted by Doc Oc

This is the intermittent clacking noise so many have, but it doesn't sound like the op's rattle at all to me.....

I agree with this. What I think I heard was what I have heard before in older cars. I do not know what it is but have always thought it was more about the engine running rich rather than something mechanical. I used to get it on light acceleration in the 2-3k range on my e46. You can sometimes replicate it in newer cars if you apply too much gas in a low rpm. Love to hear other's inputs on this, as I can't say that my gut is scientific by any means but perhaps those are some avenues to explore for the OP.

[Eme 3]

Originally Posted by Cwleo

Any updates with the spark plug change? My rattling did reduce with the spark plug change but there is still some rattling esp noticeable under load eg during a hill climb. Esp on 2nd gear rpm range of 1800-2000.

In my case in my opinion is knock. That sound is knock. My last 3 fuel tanks I used 91 oct. On Wednesday night put a full tank of 93 oct and the knock disappear. Yesterday I change sparks everything was fine but during the afternoon the noise appeared again. The temp was close to the 90s. If it's knock something still needs to be done.

[m3jala]

Running rich would indicate fuel air mixture is off so something like oxygen sensors or perhaps even air filter? Are there any codes?

[Eme 3]

Originally Posted by m3jala

Running rich would indicate fuel air mixture is off so something like oxygen sensors or perhaps even air filter? Are there any codes?

No codes

[m3jala]

Originally Posted by Eme 3

No codes

Dumb thing like air filter checked right? O2 sensor I assume would throw code. There are those that swear by products like sea foam. I am no expert in this but these are the things I would consider. I know what you are describing as I had it in my old car. It would be worse in the summer months and happened at light to medium load in the 2-3k rpm range. I always had the sense it was air fuel mixture related. I also know after a long highway drive a couple times my car sounded great. Someone told me the short city sprints the car was typically driven in caused carbon buildup which the long highway drive later burned off - made sense to me as all I ever got elsewhere were blank stares. The car had 120k miles. If you find the solution please post back here. Good luck.

[Cwleo]

Originally Posted by ash4390

Haha you jinxed me! The sound is back with the warmer weather we've been having. I'm taking it in for the battery cable recall on Thursday, I'll point out the sound again. I don't think the bed plate is the issue anymore, it's hard to believe that would need retorquing again after 4000km.

Noticed the same... rattle is more prevalent on a hot day. Does anyone think the sound maybe coming from the gearbox instead of the engine?