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03-25-2020, 04:44 PM | #530 | |
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Perhaps you could buy a "used" skidplate from a member and have them ship it to you by snail mail... Cheers,
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03-25-2020, 04:47 PM | #531 |
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Exactly. When I lived in Europe I was always buying car parts and all of them were used
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03-25-2020, 04:55 PM | #533 |
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Horrible.
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03-25-2020, 05:59 PM | #534 |
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SMH...
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03-26-2020, 07:43 AM | #537 | |
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Got a bucket of 460g, put 9540g of water, which sum 10kg, and I am at sea level, put it hanging on the torque wrench adjusted to 28,1 ft/lb which is the torque I calculated with this weight and the torque wrench lengh. Man, both of them worked nice. It clicks right in that adjust. Tried with 27 ft/lb adjust, clicks before I leave the bucket hanging completely. Tried with 29 ft/lb adjust, doesn't click. Unfortunately, I can't try with 50 ft/lb, because of the experiment limitations here. Tried with the chinese, it went perfectly as well. |
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03-27-2020, 07:36 AM | #538 |
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All bearings done. Should I rotate the engine and come checking every bolt torque again?
Rod bearings condition on the proper thread at the link below: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1602 Last edited by jvictormp; 03-27-2020 at 07:53 AM.. |
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03-27-2020, 08:01 AM | #539 | |
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Time to enjoy the peace of mind of having new bearings!! |
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03-27-2020, 08:40 AM | #540 |
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One doubt: do I need to put some chemical seal in the sump gasket? And how do I remove that old chemical seal?
It seemed to have a chemical seal there, when I removed the old gasket. |
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03-27-2020, 08:42 AM | #541 | |
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You'll have to strip your oil pan and the engine portion from all that crap |
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03-27-2020, 09:01 AM | #543 |
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I would use brake cleaner. That tool will scratch the mating surfaces
I used an 'american blade', the kind of tool you use to remove stickers from windshields/glass one time and it worked out ok |
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03-27-2020, 09:35 AM | #544 |
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03-27-2020, 09:35 AM | #545 |
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Thanks for the suggestion.
I don't have brake cleaner, so I used injector fuel cleaner. And you made me remember that I have a glass scraper. So I used it. It's pretty plan and dry now, but I don't know if satisfactory. You think I should remove everything at all? Should I remove oil from the engine mating surface too? Edit: fuck that picture orientation. |
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03-27-2020, 09:41 AM | #546 |
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You need to remove ALL of the foreign material from both mating surfaces. And it needs to be clean and free of OIL or the new gasket won't seal long term. If you don't have brake clean, go get some lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, or some kind of solvent that cuts oil and dries without a residue. Not mineral spirits, not turpentine, fuel injector cleaner, etc.
It helps to take the blade out of the holder. Hold it near vertically by hand and drag it across the gasket surface. That will scrape the gasket off without marring or cutting into the aluminum surface. |
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03-27-2020, 10:20 AM | #547 |
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Nice, worked way better with the blade vertically, while applying fuel cleaner simultaneously. After that I applied isopropyl alcohol, and now it seems completely dry.
Made a little crappy movement, as you can see in a picture. |
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03-27-2020, 10:48 AM | #548 |
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That is what I did. Razor blade and brake clean.
If you feel up for a messy job, your coolant block drains and the most accessible they will be. Allen head plugs on each side above the header collectors (think of the area where the oil pan flares out towards the rear of the pan if the pan was attached). |
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03-27-2020, 12:50 PM | #549 |
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I wonder why your pan gasket had goo on it. Had it been off before? If so, why?
Cheers,
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03-27-2020, 01:05 PM | #550 |
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Did your gasket come off the pan and block clean and leave nothing behind? I remember scraping with a razor blade and running/wiping with brake clean and a rag. The gasket is metal/rubber and I assumed the rubber and compressed and stuck.
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