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07-13-2019, 08:45 PM | #23 |
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How do you plan on pressing out the old bush out of the subframe? I have a silent block bushing removal tool which I don't believe has the right sized cup and a 20 ton H frame shop press but don't think the whole subframe will fit under it. I am planning on making some cups for my tool to do mine unless you have a better suggestion? Maybe I'll be able to get the angles on the shop press?
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07-13-2019, 08:57 PM | #24 |
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I have the same jack if its the DK13HLQ. When I had stock suspension it would hit the felt, so I have always used ramps at the front. Great jack for a garage or shop, but it's heavy. The hydraulics can be rebuilt.
I appreciate the work that VictorH is doing. I will be doing the same later this year. I am happy to hear it hasn't been too difficult....I didn't think it was. Just one heavy part. Last edited by chalbe; 07-18-2019 at 08:11 PM.. |
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07-14-2019, 05:54 AM | #25 |
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Yes, it's a nice piece of equipment. I've had it for at least 10 years, maybe more (before the prices started getting a bit crazy). If will reach the front center mount to lift the front of the car, but if you are lowered and I am just a little bit, it's tight but it will work. Parts for the jack are available from Pelican parts, since things like the O-rings on the wheels will wear out and break every once in a long while.
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07-14-2019, 06:02 AM | #26 | |
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E82-E90...kAAOSwoixc0Xvx The actual bushing removal and installation will be interesting. I'll post that process here. Talking to a couple of folks it sounds like, the best bet will be to get the bushings started with the bushing removal tool used in reverse but evidently when you get about half-way through the bushings get so tight it's next to impossible to advance them more. The suggestions has been, "use a hydraulic press if at all possible." Once I have them started and straight, I'm thinking I'll take the subframe to my track inspection shop and have the bushings pushed in the rest of the way. My local grocery store has dry ice so I'm going to see if that makes a meaningful difference in getting the bushings started as well. I'm not really wild about heating the subframe with a torch, maybe a heat gun but I don't really want to burn the paint off the subframe. |
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07-14-2019, 06:05 AM | #27 | |
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07-14-2019, 08:29 AM | #28 |
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Drive onto planks and there might be a lot of floor jacks that work. I can fit a $59 HF aluminum jack under the car if it is raised a few inches.
I wonder whether using a flat undertray like the Deansbimmer one helps increase clearance to get the jack under. |
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07-14-2019, 10:02 AM | #29 | |
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F80Z is gone (one year of depreciation was all I could stomach - amazing machine nonetheless) and getting serious about another E9XM. It would be hard for me to tear into a low mileage/fresh E9XM rear suspension to 'improve' something that really doesn't need improving. The rear setup in these cars is quite good and much, much more planted than the 46M. HOWEVER - aside from the massive power, the other most defining factor of the F8X is its immense 'on rails' feeling. It is immediately noticeable... the lateral control of the rear suspension is incredible, no doubt a result of its solid mounted subframe. From this, I can see the appeal of solid subframe bushings on the E9XM as they would, presumably, provide a similar feeling and if so.... a big step up.
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07-14-2019, 02:16 PM | #30 |
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FYI: Adressing question 2: BW subframe bushing ALL go in bottom up.
Dont make the same mistake I did pressing in the new BW subframe bushings. I thought they went in same way as oem but I was wrong. I received pdf with orientation from BW after I suspected I had it wrong. pdf really should be included with the product. I bought the harbor freight 12 ton press which made installation a piece of cake. Last edited by M43S7RO; 07-14-2019 at 02:23 PM.. |
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07-14-2019, 02:22 PM | #31 | |
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07-14-2019, 02:42 PM | #32 | |
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My F80 experience has taught me that this is a huge upgrade, even just in normal driving. Nothing ever jostles the rear end - the car always tracks precisely where you put it regardless of what the tires may encounter. It's remarkable and gives immense confidence. The F80 also rides significantly 'harder' than the E9XM so no free lunch. Rear impacts are sharp and pointy and ultra direct - good for performance bad for comfort. Surely the solid mounted subframe contributes to this. It's just that the stock E9XM is very good in this regard and doesn't 'need' an upgrade in this area even though improvements are possible.
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07-14-2019, 03:19 PM | #33 |
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F80 is probably even better than an E90 with stiffer subframe bushings due to additional suspension improvements. I’d take one (with some mods to substantially increase power) over my E90 but am inclined to just wait until I can afford an AWD big power car like a 911 Turbo. The problem with RWD and big power is putting it down. Might be fine in warm weather on a good road, but those two don’t exist in much of my driving. Even my E90 with bolt on mods can’t put its power down off the line very well.
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07-14-2019, 04:55 PM | #34 |
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Just a little work today.
The passenger side brake wear sensor and wheel speed sensor are no issue to disconnect from the holder inside the fender well. On the driver's side I found it easier to just remove the whole suspension height sensor with it's wiring as one unit and tuck it into the back bumper cavity. My picture shows the sensor connection disconnected but you don't need to do that. The white plastic clip on the sub-frame that is holding both the suspension height sensor and wheel speed sensor can be pushed out from the cut-out in the sub-frame from the back-side with your finger. Also, since the brake lines need to be opened I figured to just remove the rear calipers with the mounting bracket in one unit and remove the brake line at the hard-line connector. No need to wire up the calipers and can be easily put back on prior to re-install of the subframe. |
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07-14-2019, 05:02 PM | #35 |
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Close to removal now, parking brake cables removed, tried to remove backing plates from the rear hub but the bearing carrier would need to be removed and this is not worth the effort, so I just left them loose so it's less likely to get bent or damaged when I maneuver the sub-frame around.
Last three items to remove 1) Lower shock mount 2) V-brace to front sub-frame mounts 3) Brake line transition from body to sub-frame (the brake lines people generally don't replace because they're such a pain to get to). Front diff bushings seem to look okay. |
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07-14-2019, 06:57 PM | #36 |
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Great work, Victor. Are you replacing anything else "while you're in there?"
Eric, glad you chimed in, I've always valued your suspension input. But you're making this tougher. |
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07-14-2019, 08:09 PM | #37 | |
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07-14-2019, 08:11 PM | #38 |
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VictorH can you show a pic of your diff bushings - front and rear - when they are out? I did mine 40k kms ago and wondering if I should change them again since I'm getting some work done on the diff soon.
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07-14-2019, 08:33 PM | #39 | ||
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It's easy for us to get sucked into the 'upgrade' fever but you have to ask yourself if you have any issues with the stability of the stock rear end. Surely things can be better but sometimes ignorance is bliss. I remember being quite impressed with my 30k mile E90M's road handling... big step up from the 46M, which was my reference point, as so I had no urge to upgrade the rear subframe bushings. But now.... as my reference point has changed.... hmmmmm. Quote:
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07-14-2019, 08:55 PM | #40 |
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I'll detail all the bushings with lots of pictures when I get there.
Only plans at this time are all 3 diff bushings and the solid sub-frame bushings. Things I wish I could do, but not at this time. Diffs on-line 3-clutch LSD PFC Z-45 rear BBK I do have one upgrade coming which I'll show the install in this thread when it comes. |
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07-15-2019, 12:23 AM | #41 | ||
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Victor, sorry for the semi-jacking of your thread. |
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07-15-2019, 12:44 AM | #42 | ||
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07-15-2019, 10:58 AM | #43 |
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Just done the job last week, i've try the drill trick but subframe bushing have aluminium in the middle of the rubber. I hand up removing everything on the subframe and press out bushing on my 30 ton press. You need to be 2 , one leveling the subframe and the other on press pump. I've found some old wheel bearing race to fit under the subframe and then i press them out.
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07-15-2019, 08:01 PM | #44 |
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Got the bushing tool I ordered this afternoon. I don't have the sub-frame off yet so I don't know how this tool works. The quality appears to be adequate, the nuts are good, just cant tell if the threaded rod is high quality (i.e. high tensile strength) or not. If the rod breaks I guess we'll know.
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