Oil temps high?

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by ethan9273

after changing the thermostat/water pump/full purge of coolant. Still same issue. It's 45 degrees in socal in the mountains and went for a drive and any time I gave consistent load over 4000pm over a period of time, temperatures would start visibly spiking over 220. (all speeds. 40mph-100mph)

man.. this is so frustrating as no one seems to have a clear answer.
folks are saying it's normal but many folks experience this only after a couple years of it NEVER going over 210F. anyone that has a fix insight would be amazing.

I've thought about the radiator/oil cooler replacement but like I said, the last thing I want is for it not to work or to be a masking band aid (I prefer OEM,not upgrade) and then give up and have to sell the car.

It's super normal - You're freaking out about nothing. If you're going to aggressively track the car with aero, slicks, etc then it's likely worthwhile to upgrade. Otherwise, let it be. If you insist, flush the coolant and increase the % of water to coolant ratio.

[wrk.eat.drive.rpt]

Im concerned it’s early signs of RB or other issues. It wouldn’t worry if the cars came out of the box like things but all these oil temp issues are happening after a certain amount of use/mileage .

[dbrian]

i bought mine at 65k and noticed that my temps were ranging 210-230. i thought these were normal temps since i rarely pushed above 4k rpms. had the rod bearings replaced, oil change (10w60 liqimoly) & filter, coolant flushed, and now i don’t go above 210. i’ll hit 210 when i push past 6k rpms, but i never really see it go past 210 even on the freeway. don’t know if this correlates to anything but that was my experience.

[pbonsalb]

The thicker oil may have helped, but there is no problem with synthetic oil at 230F.

[wrk.eat.drive.rpt]

Thanks DBrian. have you run in a bit hard in warner vegas weather? I'm seeing 230-235 ish temps in 45-50 degree weather driving extended 2-3min sessions in the 4-5.5k rpm range. (regardless of freeway , or slow speed)

I've done almost everything (therm/water pump/belts/coolant flush-purge/oil cleaner clean out/undertray) except for RB, (38K miles) Only issue is I've even seen folks have this over heating issue after thye do RB's.

[dbrian]

i haven't driven it in the summer yet since i got it in november so i've only had it for about 2 months... currently at 67k and i use it as my DD.

maybe you could take it to a reputable bmw shop and have them diagnose it? the manual says normal operating temps are 175-250 and if the temp is too high you'll get a message on the dash. so...you should be good? :|

[wrk.eat.drive.rpt]

Completely clean out oil cooler. It was pretty dirty. BUT temp concern is still there/present. I'm going to ride it out in the summer and consider if it bothers me enough to consider trying the rod bearings (even though some had said there is no correlation- and some who said there may be). it's on 08 so I'm doing a second oil analysis w/blackstone.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by ethan9273

Completely clean out oil cooler. It was pretty dirty. BUT temp concern is still there/present. I'm going to ride it out in the summer and consider if it bothers me enough to consider trying the rod bearings (even though some had said there is no correlation- and some who said there may be). it's on 08 so I'm doing a second oil analysis w/blackstone.

Ethan, could the aux coolant pump possibly be part of your issue? Doing a bit of research myself reg a fail code, when Theodore provided a chart. Not sure how this pump works but what if its clogged up somehow and hinder some of the coolant? Maybe a long shot but I figure thats where you are by now. Have a look further down in this thread mate:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1687639

Cheers

[bmwpower603]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Ethan, could the aux coolant pump possibly be part of your issue? Doing a bit of research myself reg a fail code, when Theodore provided a chart. Not sure how this pump works but what if its clogged up somehow and hinder some of the coolant? Maybe a long shot but I figure thats where you are by now. Have a look further down in this thread mate:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1687639

Cheers

I think it’s the oil t stat inside the filter housing.

Replacing the filter housing for $380 might fix the issue.

The aux coolant pump just regulates the flow of coolant through the cabin.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by bmwpower603

I think it’s the oil t stat inside the filter housing.

Replacing the filter housing for $380 might fix the issue.

The aux coolant pump just regulates the flow of coolant through the cabin.

Whatever the pump does, all coolant seems to pass through it?

[bmwpower603]

I’m not going to count it out.

Usually if they die, it directly affects the heat in the cabin. If it’s an actual pump, and it dies. I think you would get a code since it’s electronic.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by bmwpower603

I’m not going to count it out.

Usually if they die, it directly affects the heat in the cabin. If it’s an actual pump, and it dies. I think you would get a code since it’s electronic.

My aux pump seesm to have died (generating code), haven't changed a thing from what I can tell. Different subject though, I was wondering as a long shot if the same pump of some reason partly clogged up, could limit the coolant to the engine. Anyways, lets see what Ethan think.

cheers

[wrk.eat.drive.rpt]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

My aux pump seesm to have died (generating code), haven't changed a thing from what I can tell. Different subject though, I was wondering as a long shot if the same pump of some reason partly clogged up, could limit the coolant to the engine. Anyways, lets see what Ethan think.

cheers

I'm going to try the coolant temp trick on my dash so I can check it to see if coolant temps are going up with oil temps. If it was a faulty oil tstat, wouldn't it give me a code and also default to open?

[bmwpower603]

Originally Posted by ethan9273

I'm going to try the coolant temp trick on my dash so I can check it to see if coolant temps are going up with oil temps. If it was a faulty oil tstat, wouldn't it give me a code and also default to open?

You wouldn’t get a code.

It’s a mechanical part within the oil filter housing.

[wrk.eat.drive.rpt]

gotcha. before I spend 400 bucks for the part and labor (apparently not easy to get to), any additional info to chime in on how likely this might be the issue? Anyone have experienced replacing that with positive results?

thanks!

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by ethan9273

gotcha. before I spend 400 bucks for the part and labor (apparently not easy to get to), any additional info to chime in on how likely this might be the issue? Anyone have experienced replacing that with positive results?

thanks!

Yo, not following you here Ethan, whats the next action planned costing $400 in parts?

[pbonsalb]

He would be paying for labor to pull the OFH.

[bmwpower603]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Yo, not following you here Ethan, whats the next action planned costing $400 in parts?

He might be referring to the oil filter housing.

Some shops might charge a lot of labor to replace it. Depends on if the shop you take it to can remove it without taking off the harmonic balancer.

And it’s just an idea of mine. Since everyone has tried everything else. Not 1 person tried replacing the oil filter housing.

(People have replaced the oil diverter valve in the oil filter housing, and it brought temps down to normal) But I’ve heard it’s only good on the track. Since engine temps take a long time to reach 210 with the aftermarket diverter valve installed into the oil filter housing.

I might do the while housing when replacing OFHG. Just to see if I see a change in temps.

[wrk.eat.drive.rpt]

Originally Posted by bmwpower603

He might be referring to the oil filter housing.

Some shops might charge a lot of labor to replace it. Depends on if the shop you take it to can remove it without taking off the harmonic balancer.

And it's just an idea of mine. Since everyone has tried everything else. Not 1 person tried replacing the oil filter housing.

(People have replaced the oil diverter valve in the oil filter housing, and it brought temps down to normal) But I've heard it's only good on the track. Since engine temps take a long time to reach 210 with the aftermarket diverter valve installed into the oil filter housing.

I might do the while housing when replacing OFHG. Just to see if I see a change in temps.

Correct the oil filter housing costs $400 plus labor... appreciate the insight here.

[bmwpower603]

Originally Posted by ethan9273

Correct the oil filter housing costs $400 plus labor... appreciate the insight here.

I also found this. If someone else wants to chime in. I believe it’s the transmission cooler ? Or might only be found on DCT vehicles.

But maybe it’s the culprit for some erratic oil temps.

[wrk.eat.drive.rpt]

Originally Posted by bmwpower603

I also found this. If someone else wants to chime in. I believe it’s the transmission cooler ? Or might only be found on DCT vehicles.

But maybe it’s the culprit for some erratic oil temps.

Hmm ok. Wonder if this applies to the 6sp I have

[NAK91]

I'm definitely interested to see if anyone resolves this issue. I have an E60 M5 with the same issue. So far, the items I've replaced are as follows:

Oil cooler
Radiator
Coolant thermostat
Oil filter housing thermostat

All fluids are new and I've just recently replaced rod bearings. The car has 90,000 miles.

Also, anyone that says it's normal is totally wrong. My oil temperature always stayed at 210, not varying more that a needle one way or another.