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      03-16-2020, 09:34 PM   #1
tsk94
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Home Built E92 M3 Project

Hi everyone!

Last year we completed the build of our race/track E92 M3. Along the way we decided to take lots of pictures to document progress. Over the years of following build threads, using build threads as inspiration and a source of information for our own project, I decided to create my own thread documenting our journey.

My father and I built the car together in his home garage. The entirely of the build was done by the two of us, from stripping, suspension upgrades, cooling upgrades, fabrication of the roll cage and so on. My main intent for this thread is provide reference for anyone looking to do a similar project and provide a place of discussion relating to build related questions, design and part choice. As well as provide updates regarding the cars evolution and track/race events.

The Car:
2008 E92 M3
6 Speed manual
Silverstone
EDC, no nav, single hump car
CF Roof
87k miles on body
24k on engine






Purpose of the build:
Up here in Western Canada we run NASA rules. However we also wanted to build the car to be eligible to run in SCCA and BMW Club racing. Safety, particularly the roll cage, was designed to accommodate the rules of all 3 of these sanctioning bodies.

The purpose of the build was to build a car that would be competitive running TT/ST3 for competitive events. But also serve as a lapping, HPDE car, with the option to run a passenger seat for ride-alongs.


The Build: Pt.1 – Strip down

The fun begins..














The Build: Pt.2 – Cleanup

Removal of sound deadening: Heat gun + scrapper combo worked very well..





Wax and Grease remover removed the remaining residue nicely:



The CF roof was covered in a foam insulating material, upon removing it it left a horrible amount of glue residue. No lie this took ~4 hours to clean off completely…



Dash removal in prep for roll cage fabrication:



Excess material/mount points that were no longer needed were removed:
Here the rear shelf behind the rear seats was cut off, as well as the rectangle boxes above the wheel arches:
Before:


After:



Various other pieces from the transmission tunnel around the handbrake, rear seat mounting points and brackets:




So much wiring…! P.S Label your wires if you do this, you’ll thank yourself later during the build!






The Build: Pt.3 – Roll Cage
The cage, overall, was the most difficult and time-consuming part of the build. We designed and fabricated the entire cage ourselves. Making sure it would comply with NASA, SCCA and BMW Club racing rules. Number of bars, design, tube size and thickness, number of bents and more had to be considered to make it work around all 3 sets of safety regulations. Inspiration for design was taken mainly from the E92 M3 GT4 factory build car.

Main hoop plate:



Front roll bar:



We wanted to keep all bars as close to the chassis/frame as possible.
Lateral bars:




Most the rear bars were straightforward as they are all straight and required no bending. We reinforced the rear strut tower quite intensively as we are running rear coilovers:












Completed door bars:



Completed cage prior to paint:



Smaller diameter (lighter) tubing was used to tie the cage together at multiple points:




The bar in the center of the door bars goes thru the floor and sticks out ~2in below the car. This is used as a better balanced, center jack point, on the car. This was done on both sides:





Another view looking back:



The cage was tied into the chassis as well at multiple points using plates that connected the roll cage to the chassis/frame of the car:





My favorite view of the cage:



The interior + cage was then sprayed with a light grey color. We wanted a tough paint to resistant scratching/peeling and could use chemicals like lacquer thinner on to clean without harming the paint. If anyone is interested, I can get specifics on the paint for you.




Looks so much better painted:






The Build: Pt.4 – Suspension, Cooling, Brakes, Wheels, Exhaust, Aero etc.

All suspension/under the car work was done without a lift, we primarily used Quick Jacks.

Replaced the stock clutch and flywheel with a Clutch Masters upgraded clutch and JB Racing lightweight Flywheel:


Taking out and putting back the transmission was a pain:


Next we upgraded cooling: CSF radiator, oil cooler, transmission cooler and power steering cooler. I didn’t take many pictures of this as there wasn’t much to see. These parts were straightforward swap out and bolt on.

We also deleted the AC, secondary air pump and heater core:


AC (on the far left) was removed. Mach Schnell underdrive pulley and custom length second belt to accommodate AC delete, if you want details on length for AC delete msg me:


While in the engine bay we also did some basic maintenance. Upgraded the waterpump, new coils and spark plugs, cleaned and test the fuel injectors.



Suspension:
We started our suspension work on the rear axle. First, we removed the diff and dropped the whole rear subframe:





We replaced the existing subframe with a new rear subframe and installed solid subframe and solid diff bushings:


Differential:
Prior to putting the new subframe in we installed new control arms; spherical rear set from Ground Control, new lower control arms, new axles and a brand-new diff.

I worked with Florian (driftflo here on the forum) to build me a top notch diff. We decided on an 8-clutch Drexler unit, with 60% lock-up on accel and coast – a true 2-way diff. Also included; new spines, 4.10 motorsport final drive and associated hardware:






Ground Control rear arm set:


New subframe + diff installed. Hotchkis rear sway bar, new lower control arms. New rear wheel bearings + new OEM brakes:


Everything installed:







KW Suspension: 2-way Remote Coilovers with EXR valving:
I spent a long time researching and debating which route to go with suspension. MCS and JRZ are very popular option here in North America and I was strongly considering that route. Ultimately, I decided to go with KW, for several reasons. First, they were familiar with the E9X platform and have done extensive work with the GT4 chassis. They’ve setup hundreds of E92 M3 race car and had lots of data from testing these cars on their suspension dyno with different spring rate setups.

I worked directly with an engineer from KW’s competition department in California. Here are some details on my custom setup:
• 2-way remote
• Monotube F+R
• Inverted monotube front struts
• Custom length reservoir hoses for better/quicker shock response
• 800F/570R spring rates (equivalent to 800/1150 in a divorced setup)
• 50mm rear springs for increases rear tire clearance
• EXR valving
• Integrated camber plate
• Solid bushings throughout



Rears:


Fronts:




Moving onto the front suspension:

Cleaned front knuckles, new wheel bearings and Hard brake duct plates:




BimmerWorld Front control arms + bump steer kit:


Installing the new front control arms and Hotchkis front sway bar:


Front coilovers installed:


Front suspension all installed + picture of brake duct routing:





Brakes:
This is probably the most controversial part of the car. I’m running OEM brakes, but they have been modified slightly:
-New OEM calipers + rotors
-Solid brass guides in all 4 calipers
-Titanium shims
-3in brake ducting
-PFC08/11 F+R
-Stainless steel lines
-ST660 or Endless fluid

We’ve experienced no fade and consistent pedal and stopping performance from this setup over long session, even in hot days. For now, the brakes aren’t a weak point of the car and until they become so we feel no need to upgrade.

One of the big reasons we’d like to stick with OEM brakes is the free rotor replacement from FCP Euro. They’ll replace your OEM rotors that you buy from them even if they’ve been tracked. So every season we can send back our ‘used’ and almost worn out rotors and get brand new replacements for the next season.



Wheels:
Fast FC04 – 18x10.0 ET35, 20lb per wheel

Wheels pictured with NT01 275’s F+R:






Exhaust:
Currently running OEM header + axle back with BimmerWorld cat-less resonated X-Pipe. For sound restriction purposes this combo works out well. Axles backs to little for power gain and the OEM unit provides much better aerodynamics then most aftermarket units and is still reasonably light. Removing weight from the rear isn’t much of a concern.

BimmerWorld X-Pipe:



Aero:
Aero is a ongoing process with this car, currently ‘aero’ wise we haven’t done much. Just a front GT4 splitter and a rear wing:

Front GT4 splitter with integrated brake ducting:




BimmerWorld Ultralight GT Carbon Rear Wing:




Aero will be an ongoing development that I will keep updated.



Build Completion:
Here are some pictures of the completed car as is:



Homemade door cards:


Cockpit view:





Interior – passenger side view:


Homemade delete panels and block-off plates:




We knew we wanted to retain the OEM dash and spent many hours cutting and messing around with it to make it fit in neatly with the cage:



2x Sparco Pro 2000 seats on homemade Aluminum seat brackets:







Build Specs/Summary:

Engine/Power:
-Stock 4.0L S65
-Mach Schnell underdrive pulley kit
-Mach Schnell cold air intake
-AC delete
-Secondary air pump delete
-EPIC Motorsports 93 octane tune
-BimmerWorld Catless & resonated X-Pipe
-OEM Headers & axle back
-Full CSF Cooling package (Radiator, PS, trans and oil)

Dyno #’s:
-375whp and 280wtq


Brakes:
-New OEM rotors + calipers
-Brass caliper guides front & rear
-Titanium brake shims/backing plates
-Stainless steel lines
-3in brake ducting
-PFC 08/11 pads
-Stoptech ST660/Endless fluid
-Factory ABS retained


Wheels & Tires:
-Fast FC04: 18x10.0 ET35
-Square 275/35R18 NT01
-275/295 Toyo RR


Drivetrain:
-Clutchmasters upgraded clutch
-JB racing lightweight flywheel
-limitedslip.de 8-clutch Drexler LSD, 2-way 60% lockup
-4.10 final drive
-RTD shifter


Suspension:
-Hotchkis 4-way adjustable front sway bar
-Hotchkis 3-way adjustable rear sway bar
-BimmerWorld rear adjustable sway bar endlinks
-KW front adjustable sway bar endlinks
-Ground control spherical rear arm set
-Solid subframe and diff bushings
-SPL and BimmerWorld front control arm combo + bumpsteer kit
-BimmerWorld motor mounts
-Revshift transmission mounts

-Custom 2-way KW Competition dampers:
-Inverted monotude fronts
-Rear coilover
-800F/570R spring rates (equivalent to 1150 rear)


Aero:
-GT4 Front splitter
-BimmerWorld Ultralight Carbon GT wing


Safety:
-NASA/SCCA/BMW CCA legal roll cage
-Sparco PRO2000 seats
-Homemade/custom aluminum seat brackets
-Schroth racing harnesses
-BimmerWorld front window defroster kit


Oh, and the car is still registered and street legal! Occasionally it gets driven on the street, to the car wash, dyno, or for a short cruise

More to come as the car will continue to evolve and be tweaked. I'm also planning on posting video & pictures from events throughout this season so stay tuned for that!

Last edited by tsk94; 05-13-2020 at 03:34 PM..
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      03-16-2020, 09:53 PM   #2
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Bravo

I intend to strip my interior next winter - your paint job was so clean - well done. Love the build.
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      03-16-2020, 10:22 PM   #3
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Beautiful!!
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      03-16-2020, 10:52 PM   #4
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Awesome build!!!
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      03-17-2020, 12:11 AM   #5
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Very cool - thanks for sharing! What does it weigh?
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      03-17-2020, 12:20 AM   #6
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looks great! i love these attention to detail builds!

i do have a question about the shorter coilover reservoir lines... this is something i thought about in the past, but wasn't sure about. i always sort of fantasized about slightly longer lines that put the reservoirs on the rear center "hump" that would be within the driver's reach. i'd also like the fronts to go through the firewall and also be accessible to the driver... not that you would actively adjust them, but you could take a short stop in the pits and turn knobs and it would be a hell of a lot easier to fine tune things for individual tracks.
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      03-17-2020, 12:39 AM   #7
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she's a beaut, and awesome to build with your dad.

Me thinks you'll be wanting some fat brakes soon though. I had the same FCPeuro plan. Did one season on stockers with PFC08 and had enough, though.
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      03-17-2020, 04:48 AM   #8
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Looking good, cage came out great. What's the paint you used? I want to look into it for a future respray
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      03-17-2020, 06:51 AM   #9
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      03-17-2020, 10:00 AM   #10
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Thanks for the kind words so far everyone. Happy to share!

Quote:
Originally Posted by slicer View Post
Very cool - thanks for sharing! What does it weigh?
Currently its 3350 w/ the passenger seat and associated hardware and ~1/2 tank of gas. Keep in mind that's with doors with glass and window motors!

This seasons we're getting a 2nd set of doors that will be fully gutted and stripped out. For competition we will put these doors on and remove the passenger seat if needed. Those 2 together should save about 120lbs. So let's say ~3200lbs competition. I'll post an update in the coming weeks with the new doors and weights once they are on!

We'll keep the 'fancy' doors with working windows for wet events, which we get a lot of up here, or for HPDE when we want a closed cockpit. The doors are easy to swap off so when we want a lighter setup we will put the gutted doors on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
looks great! i love these attention to detail builds!

i do have a question about the shorter coilover reservoir lines... this is something i thought about in the past, but wasn't sure about. i always sort of fantasized about slightly longer lines that put the reservoirs on the rear center "hump" that would be within the driver's reach. i'd also like the fronts to go through the firewall and also be accessible to the driver... not that you would actively adjust them, but you could take a short stop in the pits and turn knobs and it would be a hell of a lot easier to fine tune things for individual tracks.
I did a lot of research and spoke to a lot of people when I was looking at what suspension to get. There is some good stuff online about how long reservoir hoses delay shock response and have greater potential to create hysteresis. We're not talking HUGE but enough that it made sense to make the hoses shorter because we could make the shorter ones work. When you buy MCS, JRZ, Moton etc. they come with standard length hoses. Moton's are often 4 feet long! This is because these suspensions kits are designed to work on a large variety of different platforms and allow the customer to mount the reservoir in many places. For us this wasn't a concern as beforehand we figured out where we would mount them and figured out the hose lengths we'd need. We send that info to KW and they made they to our spec.

Regarding the rears coming in, that will work if the reservoir comes from the top of the shock. Some do, some don't. The KW's come off of the bottom so we fabbed a bracket to attach them to the rear control arm. It allows the reservoir to move with the suspension so no strain is put on the line.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartledoo View Post
she's a beaut, and awesome to build with your dad.

Me thinks you'll be wanting some fat brakes soon though. I had the same FCPeuro plan. Did one season on stockers with PFC08 and had enough, though.
As I said I figured this would be a talking point of the car haha. Initially we weren't sure and were a bit skeptical about how they'd perform. The previous car we ran was an E36 M3 race car with a PFC BBK all around, also had a pretty modified E46 street car with StopTechs.

So far we've been pleasantly surprised and had no issues. I know the ducting makes night and day difference for cooling and maintaining consistent performance. BBK would overall be better, but as of right now the brakes aren't a weak point per say and until they are or slowing us down we'll keep this setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shmelgy View Post
Looking good, cage came out great. What's the paint you used? I want to look into it for a future respray
I don't know off the top of my head but I will check and get back to you with that info
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      03-17-2020, 10:07 AM   #11
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Great build! And Great write up!!

So amazing that you were able to build this yourselves. Looks so clean. Very nice attention to detail.

Thoughts/questions:
-Brakes: As you go faster in this build, you may find that while the stock sized pad is able to provide decent stopping power, the pads themselves may be destroyed very quickly because they're so small. The heat just overwhelms them. My friend was destroying Endless pads in his stock calipers in less than two days. A BBK pad lasts quite a bit longer than the stock pad simply due to size and more heat dissipation. At some point, it becomes expensive to replace race pads every couple track days and a BBK doesn't look like such a bad deal.

-Halo seats: for such a serious build, I would highly recommend halo seats. Neck restraints simply do not provide much lateral protection.

-Doors: get you some fiberglass or carbon doors! It's not hard to get them for an E92. Massive weight savings from the middle of the car. And not that expensive. The pounds-per-dollar is really good.

-I'm curious about the forward hoop tube that goes from the main hoop over the door frames to the front. There's a lot of small bends in that tube. I count 5 or 6 bends. NASA has rules about only having 4 bends in them. What was your approach there? Did you go with a thicker tubing than necessary for the weight of the car?

-What was the final weight of the car without fuel and driver?

-A big 66" wing will need solid front aero to balance out. I see a splitter in your future!

-I don't see hood latches. Where did you move the hood release lever to? When I still had the stock hood catches and the release lever, it was hard to pop my hood with the cage tube in the way....hahaha I highly recommend hood latches. Just keep a couple spare pins around. After 5 years, I broke one of the pins.

-Hood vents!!! Get some! Seriously though, I think they are a valuable addition to a dedicated build. Anything that allows air flow and reduces potential lift is a win.

-Did you do an oil diverter valve? I highly recommend it. Good results for me and jakob66. (I'll post a bit more info about that on my thread soon.)

-Hang on......after all this huge write up, you didn't say how the car is to drive!!!! So----how is it!!? hahaha

Anyway, really nice stuff man! Congrats!
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      03-17-2020, 10:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
Great build! And Great write up!!

So amazing that you were able to build this yourselves. Looks so clean. Very nice attention to detail.

Thoughts/questions:
-Brakes: As you go faster in this build, you may find that while the stock sized pad is able to provide decent stopping power, the pads themselves may be destroyed very quickly because they're so small. The heat just overwhelms them. My friend was destroying Endless pads in his stock calipers in less than two days. A BBK pad lasts quite a bit longer than the stock pad simply due to size and more heat dissipation. At some point, it becomes expensive to replace race pads every couple track days and a BBK doesn't look like such a bad deal.

-Halo seats: for such a serious build, I would highly recommend halo seats. Neck restraints simply do not provide much lateral protection.

-Doors: get you some fiberglass or carbon doors! It's not hard to get them for an E92. Massive weight savings from the middle of the car. And not that expensive. The pounds-per-dollar is really good.

-I'm curious about the forward hoop tube that goes from the main hoop over the door frames to the front. There's a lot of small bends in that tube. I count 5 or 6 bends. NASA has rules about only having 4 bends in them. What was your approach there? Did you go with a thicker tubing than necessary for the weight of the car?

-What was the final weight of the car without fuel and driver?

-A big 66" wing will need solid front aero to balance out. I see a splitter in your future!

-I don't see hood latches. Where did you move the hood release lever to? When I still had the stock hood catches and the release lever, it was hard to pop my hood with the cage tube in the way....hahaha I highly recommend hood latches. Just keep a couple spare pins around. After 5 years, I broke one of the pins.

-Hood vents!!! Get some! Seriously though, I think they are a valuable addition to a dedicated build. Anything that allows air flow and reduces potential lift is a win.

-Did you do an oil diverter valve? I highly recommend it. Good results for me and jakob66. (I'll post a bit more info about that on my thread soon.)

-Hang on......after all this huge write up, you didn't say how the car is to drive!!!! So----how is it!!? hahaha

Anyway, really nice stuff man! Congrats!
Thanks! I remember sitting down with my dad and going through your thread many times looking for info and ideas!

-Yeah the brakes are a talking point. So far they've been performing well. Last season we had 7 lapping events with the car (3 wet days) and brake pads are at ~half after being new at the start of the season. The wear has been reasonable I'd say and no fade on track over 30 minutes sessions. Our current local is a small track with no high speed braking zones. Also a HOT day for us here is like 85*F and we're often running in the 65-72*F day temps. I'm sure that plays a role too..

-As the build was a somewhat equal priority build between a lapping car and something that would also be competition legal it was a bit of a compromise. The seats were one of those. We liked the idea of the Halo seat for racing, but we know how they restrict visibility, which for lapping would be a pain. We decided to go with the Pro2000's as they fit us really well. In the future we thought we could always upgrade just the drivers seat to a Halo seat if we wanted. We also always use a Hans when driving the car.

-Doors! Yes, that's the next stop for us. We picked up an extra set of E92 doors and we're going to fully guy them and use some light weight mirrors. We estimate it will save us almost 100lbs compared to the doors we have now, which are heavy. We'll keep the doors with glass and working windows for wet days or lapping so we can close the windows if we want. Then have the lighter doors for competition or when we want to go faster

-Splitter will be coming. For this season we're going to throw some dive planes on to start.

-The tubing was a bit of a compromise as it needed to accommodate all 3 sets of rules; NASA, SCCA and BMW CCA. It was slightly bigger than 1 set of rules required but then required size for another set - if that makes sense.

-The hood latch has been moved to outside the car, at the bottom of the windshield on the drivers side. It's still the factory mechanism. Latches aren't required by the regs so it's not something we did right away. Eventually it is something we'd like to add.

-Hood vents and fender vents are another thing that's on the list to add! I will admit fender vents more so, for the aero purposes. We've had no issues with heat soak thus far.

-No oil diverter valve yet. Again, like the hood vents, we've had no issues with overheating/heat soak. We've never seen the oil go above 230*F on our hot days of running and is often in the 220's. Maybe it could still be helpful though?

Overall the car drives great! The suspension and diff are the real highlights of the car. At this point we're just fine tuning suspension and alignment to get the car to where we like it. Our benchmark for this year is the ST3 lap record for our track, which is a 1:25.9. So far we've managed a 1:27.6, but that's with a car ~200lbs overweight for our class, running 275/295 RR's. With this tire setup we could drop 200lbs which should be worth about 2 seconds. The other option would be leave the weight as is and run 275/295 A7's. I think both of these options should get us within reach of beating the class record - and that's our goal.

Edit: I forgot weight: currently ~3350lb with 1/2 tank of fuel. Should be near 3200lbs with the new doors and passenger seat removed.

Last edited by tsk94; 04-28-2020 at 11:39 PM..
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      03-17-2020, 10:36 AM   #13
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One other thing I will add is this project is still ongoing. There are many things we'd like to add to the car and little upgrades that we plan to do. The build is not fully complete. So far we've put in a total of 700hours into the build - a lot of that time was figuring things out but nonetheless we've put in a lot of hours. Certain things haven't yet been addressed that will be in the future. The priority was to have a car that was race legal and ready to use for this past season. Now we're in the process of refining things are doing further upgrades/updates!
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      03-17-2020, 11:31 AM   #14
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Curious why you chose to use a 2-way diff. Won't that screw with turn in or make the car difficult to trailbrake?
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      03-17-2020, 11:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk94 View Post
Thanks! I remember sitting down with my dad and going through your thread many times looking for info and ideas!

-Yeah the brakes are a talking point. So far they've been performing well. Last season we had 7 lapping events with the car (3 wet days) and brake pads are at ~half after being new at the start of the season. The wear has been reasonable I'd say and no fade on track over 30 minutes sessions. Our current local is a small track with no high speed braking zones. Also a HOT day for us here is like 85*F and we're often running in the 65-72*F day temps. I'm sure that plays a role too..

-As the build was a somewhat equal priority build between a lapping car and something that would also be competition legal it was a bit of a compromise. The seats were one of those. We liked the idea of the Halo seat for racing, but we know how they restrict visibility, which for lapping would be a pain. We decided to go with the Pro2000's as they fit us really well. In the future we thought we could always upgrade just the drivers seat to a Halo seat if we wanted. We also always use a Hans when driving the car.

-Doors! Yes, that's the next stop for us. We picked up an extra set of E92 doors and we're going to fully guy them and use some light weight mirrors. We estimate it will save us almost 100lbs compared to the doors we have now, which are heavy. We'll keep the doors with glass and working windows for wet days or lapping so we can close the windows if we want. Then have the lighter doors for competition or when we want to go faster

-Splitter will be coming. For this season we're going to throw some dive planes on to start.

-The tubing was a bit of a compromise as it needed to accommodate all 3 sets of rules; NASA, SCCA and BMW CCA. It was slightly bigger than 1 set of rules required but then required size for another set - if that makes sense. Technically there are more then 4 bends, but since they are so minor they didn't cause any issues - the car was been teched and passed with no issues!

-The hood latch has been moved to outside the car, at the bottom of the windshield on the drivers side. It's still the factory mechanism. Latches aren't required by the regs so it's not something we did right away. Eventually it is something we'd like to add.

-Hood vents and fender vents are another thing that's on the list to add! I will admit fender vents more so, for the aero purposes. We've had no issues with heat soak thus far.

-No oil diverter valve yet. Again, like the hood vents, we've had no issues with overheating/heat soak. We've never seen the oil go above 230*F on our hot days of running and is often in the 220's. Maybe it could still be helpful though?

Overall the car drives great! The suspension and diff are the real highlights of the car. At this point we're just fine tuning suspension and alignment to get the car to where we like it. Our benchmark for this year is the ST3 lap record for our track, which is a 1:25.9. So far we've managed a 1:27.6, but that's with a car ~200lbs overweight for our class, running 275/295 RR's. With this tire setup we could drop 200lbs which should be worth about 2 seconds. The other option would be leave the weight as is and run 275/295 A7's. I think both of these options should get us within reach of beating the class record - and that's our goal.

Edit: I forgot weight: currently ~3350lb with 1/2 tank of fuel. Should be near 3200lbs with the new doors and passenger seat removed.
hehe Iíve found my build to be a constant work in progress over 8 years!! Thereís always something to tweak. Youíve done an amazing amount of work in a short period of time.

Glad you had no problems with tech.

I would recommend the oil diverter. Itís a cheap part and obviously you guys can do the labor. Helps reduce the increase in oil temps. Iíll try to get my post about it up soon.

Is the car wired for data collectionólike an AIM Solo on the CAN bus? Another highly recommended item. Incredible for learning and analysis. I didnít see any obvious GPS device or aftermarket dash. Would be cool to build a permanent mount in the middle of the car.
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      03-17-2020, 11:44 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Redd View Post
Curious why you chose to use a 2-way diff. Won't that screw with turn in or make the car difficult to trailbrake?
Good question. The main benefit to a 2-way diff, or any LSD with a high amount of lock-up on coast, is it's increased stability on the brakes. Since the diff is locking up under coast (thus while you brake), the LSD is actively trying to limit the wheel speed differences between the 2 sides. This aids in provides more stable straight-line braking as the diffs acts to keeps the wheels turning at close to the same speed. This means that bumps or pavement changes in braking zones upset the car less and keeps the rear end planted. For this reason it also aids trail braking, not harm it. Since it keeps the wheels at closer speeds to one another it encourages less rotation - since both wheels are trying to maintain speeds close to one another it wants to 'keep going straight'. This allows you to trail brake more aggressively while maintaining more rear end stability.

The downside of a 2-way diff is the turn-in. For the reasons listed above it has a negative effect on turn in, creating more understeer. This is compensated by tuning the suspension around the diff in order to have the car turn in like you want. It's not as extreme as a spool diff where it's totally locked at all times, since it is a LSD the amount of lock varies up to a certain peak point. Overall the diff has been one of the highlights of the car. It works phenomenal. On the E36 we had a 1-way LSD, so no lock-up on coast, and the 2-way is a noticeable improvement overall. The drexler unit I'm running is basically the same as what BMW motorsports runs in the GT4 and Z4 GT3 cars.
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      03-17-2020, 11:46 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
hehe Iíve found my build to be a constant work in progress over 8 years!! Thereís always something to tweak. Youíve done an amazing amount of work in a short period of time.

Glad you had no problems with tech.

I would recommend the oil diverter. Itís a cheap part and obviously you guys can do the labor. Helps reduce the increase in oil temps. Iíll try to get my post about it up soon.

Is the car wired for data collectionólike an AIM Solo on the CAN bus? Another highly recommended item. Incredible for learning and analysis. I didnít see any obvious GPS device or aftermarket dash. Would be cool to build a permanent mount in the middle of the car.
Yeah exactly. As you're well aware of it's a continuing and ongoing process and progression with the car. This is only the start!

Interested in what you have to say about the oil diverter. Is the primary purpose to reduce oil temps? Since it's such a cheap part I would consider trying it just to see..

The plan is to get a AIM data system sometime in the very near future!
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      03-17-2020, 12:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk94 View Post
One other thing I will add is this project is still ongoing. There are many things we'd like to add to the car and little upgrades that we plan to do. The build is not fully complete. So far we've put in a total of 700hours into the build - a lot of that time was figuring things out but nonetheless we've put in a lot of hours. Certain things haven't yet been addressed that will be in the future. The priority was to have a car that was race legal and ready to use for this past season. Now we're in the process of refining things are doing further upgrades/updates!
Race cars are never finished!

Visibility, halo seats, doors - one thing you might consider is replacing the oem side mirrors and removing the triangle area they mount to on the doors. Might not be the case with you - but in my car with the new lower seating position they killed visibility out the sides. Left turns in particular - like a tight double apex or something - could be very hard for me to pick up. We cut off that triangle and mounted some GT convex mirrors up as far on the door as we could. With those mirrors and the big convex rear view mirror like you have my visibility is great - and this is with halo seats. I do not find the halos to be at all restrictive with this setup.

I'm replacing the fiberglass doors that I've been running with the carbon fiber ones from Bimmerworld. Not my first choice for wheel to wheel but I'm done with the fiberglass ones we talked about. I asked if they could leave off that oem side mirror triangle mounting area - they requested that from their manufacturer & hopefully it happens. I also asked about replacing just one door if need be and they said that would not be a problem. Made me a lot more comfortable going to CF on my build.

Amazing build - just awesome how clean it is. Good luck with ST/TT3!
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      03-17-2020, 12:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG Shark View Post
Race cars are never finished!

Visibility, halo seats, doors - one thing you might consider is replacing the oem side mirrors and removing the triangle area they mount to on the doors. Might not be the case with you - but in my car with the new lower seating position they killed visibility out the sides. Left turns in particular - like a tight double apex or something - could be very hard for me to pick up. We cut off that triangle and mounted some GT convex mirrors up as far on the door as we could. With those mirrors and the big convex rear view mirror like you have my visibility is great - and this is with halo seats. I do not find the halos to be at all restrictive with this setup.

I'm replacing the fiberglass doors that I've been running with the carbon fiber ones from Bimmerworld. Not my first choice for wheel to wheel but I'm done with the fiberglass ones we talked about. I asked if they could leave off that oem side mirror triangle mounting area - they requested that from their manufacturer & hopefully it happens. I also asked about replacing just one door if need be and they said that would not be a problem. Made me a lot more comfortable going to CF on my build.

Amazing build - just awesome how clean it is. Good luck with ST/TT3!
Thank you. People like yourself and dogbone were big inspirations to make my own build thread.

After our conversation about your doors I was hesitant to go the fibreglass route given your experience. I wasn't ready to bite the bullet to go full carbon like the BimmerWorld ones yet either. It certainly doesn't help that with the Canadian dollar being weak it makes these items even more expensive for us to get unfortunately...

I found a set of used E92 doors locally for dirt cheap. They'll be fully gutted and put on the car in the next few weeks. I'll post an update when we do so. We're expecting that to save us almost 100lbs just there.

At this point we're just hoping our track events won't be cancelled due to corona
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      03-17-2020, 01:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk94 View Post
Yeah exactly. As you're well aware of it's a continuing and ongoing process and progression with the car. This is only the start!

Interested in what you have to say about the oil diverter. Is the primary purpose to reduce oil temps? Since it's such a cheap part I would consider trying it just to see..

The plan is to get a AIM data system sometime in the very near future!
You can see my initial write up about the oil diverter with AIM data here: Posts #1091 and 1093. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...158445&page=50

The summary of that write up is that the oil diverter seems to reduce the increase in oil temps from one lap to the next. I see every M3 being able to benefit from that.

(I only have a little more to add to the conversation. I'll see if I can put it up today.)
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      04-15-2020, 11:32 PM   #21
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Incredible build journey!!! Such a great track car, can't wait for you to share some feedbacks on how the car drives on track. I love the painted interior+ cage, makes the whole car so much cleaner. Would love to know how much the car weighs now wet. Also, are your KW suspension custom made by KW NA out of California?
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      04-16-2020, 12:53 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthraciteOG View Post
Incredible build journey!!! Such a great track car, can't wait for you to share some feedbacks on how the car drives on track. I love the painted interior+ cage, makes the whole car so much cleaner. Would love to know how much the car weighs now wet. Also, are your KW suspension custom made by KW NA out of California?
Thank you! A big priority for us was a clean build. It's a fairly modest build, especially compared to some other great builds posted here on the forums. It was/is a budget conscious build while trying to get the best performing car possible. Also, the intent was to show that nicely prepared (at least in our eyes) cars can be done with a very modest setup. This was built in a regular home garage, without a lift and without any tools crazy tools that the average car enthusiast probably wouldn't have (other than for the roll cage really). Hopefully it can inspire people to do something as well - whether that's their own mods or a bigger project like this!

I'll post some more feedback and videos of the car on track later this season - not sure when that will be exactly with what's going on, but it will come.

Currently the car weights 3500 with me in it and a passenger seat. We're getting it a bit lighter for this season. Fully gutted doors, lighter battery (still using the stock one) and passenger seat removal. Those things combined will take us to around ~3300-3350. So figure ~3200ish wet. I'll post the actual weights once everything is done - working on it all now.

I worked with KW out of California, yes. The suspension was built in Germany and assembled at the plant in California before they shipped it out to me. I was very happy with my experience working together with KW and the suspension has been incredible thus far.

Last edited by tsk94; 04-16-2020 at 10:03 AM..
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