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      07-16-2018, 05:42 PM   #1
wahwill
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PFC 08 Life

Do you guys run your PFC 08 pads down to the backing plates?

Mine are at a little less than 50% and they don't seem to perform as well but I'm not sure if it's just me. I flushed the fluid with ATE Type 200 so it's not the brake fluid.
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      07-20-2018, 09:17 PM   #2
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I run mine down to a few mm and change them out.

Assuming the flush was done correctly, have you engaged the ABS since the bleed? Sometimes the tiniest air bubble can get in there and needs to be flushed out by activating the pump.
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      07-20-2018, 09:24 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahwill View Post
Do you guys run your PFC 08 pads down to the backing plates?

Mine are at a little less than 50% and they don't seem to perform as well but I'm not sure if it's just me. I flushed the fluid with ATE Type 200 so it's not the brake fluid.

Don't run any pad down to the backing plates. You will transmit a huge amount of heat into the caliper and fluid when it gets below 50%. The increase is not linear -- it's exponential. This will lead to obvious problems like fluid fade, but you will also shorten the life of the calipers.

So let me put it a different way: would you rather replace the pads more often or rebuild calipers?


And yeah, reduced performance as the pad nears the end of its life is normal.
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      07-20-2018, 11:50 PM   #4
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Curious how do you guys like this pad compared to the oem pad for street driving?

I remember running PF Z pads 20 years ago and they had terrible brake torque for the street but were great once warmed up.
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      07-21-2018, 10:23 AM   #5
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The 08 will be noisy and very abrasive to rotors during street use. How much street driving do you plan to do on them? Will any of it be in cooler temps?
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      07-23-2018, 06:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
I run mine down to a few mm and change them out.

Assuming the flush was done correctly, have you engaged the ABS since the bleed? Sometimes the tiniest air bubble can get in there and needs to be flushed out by activating the pump.
I actually did seem to engage ABS a lot quicker than usual but not sure if it was because of my driving style. I bled the brakes using a motive power bleeder.

What do you mean by "activating the pump"?
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      07-25-2018, 09:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahwill View Post
I actually did seem to engage ABS a lot quicker than usual but not sure if it was because of my driving style. I bled the brakes using a motive power bleeder.

What do you mean by "activating the pump"?
Re-bleed the brakes. Activating the ABS pump means getting the ABS to cycle. Since you have done that, you've likely removed any trapped air in that system and it's now in your lines.

Tap your calipers with a lug nut, or if you have pretty painted calipers, with a non marking mallet to help trapped air escape. Also, I like to move the brake and clutch pedals when I bleed the brakes with a pressure bleeder. Don't fully stroke the brake pedal (a block of wood underneath prevents this -- remove block before moving the car). Give this a try and report back. If things are still squishy, further diagnosis (including possibly switching brake fluid). Ate 200 isn't the hot set up for brake fluid, especially for the track. You may want to step up to a more track oriented fluid.
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      07-31-2018, 12:38 PM   #8
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My favorite heavy-car HPDE pad factoring cost into the equation. I like the softer pads even more like the old 01s but I can't pay up for a new set every few weekends.

In my E92 M3 they aren't the last word in stopping power but they're good enough, and the release feel is super-good, I love the way they trail brake.

Using them with stock calipers for maybe 50 track days using treadwear 200 tires. I have replaced the piston seals at about 40 track days. No other maintenance issues to speak of. I often get lazy and just leave them on the car between track days but they are squeaky. I managed to get one set of front rotors down to minimum thickness at about 30K miles but the rears are still good at 40k.

I run them down until they look noticeably thinner than the backing plates when I'm inspecting them with a flashlight though the wheel spokes. Usually at that point they are even thinner on the hidden side.
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