DIY: S65 M3 Rod Bearing

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by frankc

Thanks for the DIY - I've read through it (and watched many videos) several times, and it will certainly make this job much easier.

I finally acquired a set of BE rod bearings and I'm now assembling the parts and tools I need for this job. The one question I have is regarding the 12mm socket for the OEM rod bolts. In this thread the terms 12pt, bi-hex and double-hex are used - but I believe these all refer to the same fastener type with a 120* angle on the point. This is different than a triple-square with a 90* angle. So my question is - is the head on the OEM rod bolt a double-hex or triple-square? I can't really tell from the photo I saw posted in this thread.



You can read more on the differences in this thread:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...d.php?t=406007

I've used a regular 12 point socket every time. Some people have had issues with theirs and end up with special sockets

Glad you were able to get the BE bearings

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I've used a regular 12 point socket every time. Some people have had issues with theirs and end up with special sockets

Glad you were able to get the BE bearings

I also used a normal 12 point socket and it worked to remove the OE bolts no problem. I think it is important to use a quality 12 point for this as some cheaper sockets likely do not have the best QA/QC.

Cheers,

[frankc]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I've used a regular 12 point socket every time. Some people have had issues with theirs and end up with special sockets

By "special socket", are you referring to a triple-square or just a different brand of 12-point? It seems like a 12-pt socket would fit (loosely) on a triple-square bolt head, but not vice-versa.

Doing some additional searching of OEM rod bolt images, they look more like a standard 12-pt (double hex), and not triple-square.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by frankc

By "special socket", are you referring to a triple-square or just a different brand of 12-point? It seems like a 12-pt socket would fit (loosely) on a triple-square bolt head, but not vice-versa.

Doing some additional searching of OEM rod bolt images, they look more like a standard 12-pt (double hex), and not triple-square.

I couldn't say for sure. I have plenty of the old rod bolts, if you want to see one I could ship it over

[frankc]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I couldn't say for sure. I have plenty of the old rod bolts, if you want to see one I could ship it over

Thanks for the offer, but I plan to at least drop the oil pan this weekend, so I'll find out soon enough for myself .

[jg2020]

Just an update on my rod bearing services. I got a used M3 with 90k on it for a good deal. PO didn’t know if the rod bearings were don’t. I got a measured mixed ACL rod bearings from Mpower motorsport.

Got prepared and did the job on jackstands due to some delivery and timing issues. I pulled everything to find out I have BE bearings already in there with no real wear. So I button things up replaced the valve cover gaskets and finally done.

Some notes if you are going to do this on your back.
- 6 ton jack stand to get good height
- disconnect their steering lines to the steering rack and drop it with the subframe. It’s not that hard to do and just get new washers for lines.
- the more you let it drain/drip the better
-go slow it’s tedious work and you aching body will want short cuts
- special tools mentioned in the beginning are a must

All in all not a bad job. I now have a set of New ACLs and a few other items if folks you like a good deal on them I am happy to sell them off just pm me. Glad that I rest easy now!

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by jg2020

Just an update on my rod bearing services. I got a used M3 with 90k on it for a good deal. PO didn’t know if the rod bearings were don’t. I got a measured mixed ACL rod bearings from Mpower motorsport.

Got prepared and did the job on jackstands due to some delivery and timing issues. I pulled everything to find out I have BE bearings already in there with no real wear. So I button things up replaced the valve cover gaskets and finally done.

Some notes if you are going to do this on your back.
- 6 ton jack stand to get good height
- disconnect their steering lines to the steering rack and drop it with the subframe. It’s not that hard to do and just get new washers for lines.
- the more you let it drain/drip the better
-go slow it’s tedious work and you aching body will want short cuts
- special tools mentioned in the beginning are a must

All in all not a bad job. I now have a set of New ACLs and a few other items if folks you like a good deal on them I am happy to sell them off just pm me. Glad that I rest easy now!

Wow!! Go buy a lottery ticket! What an awesome story

[MisterClutch888]

Thank you for this thread. I did mine bearings during the weekend. It went very smooth. The upper bearings took more time to remove, but once i did couple of cylinders, i got used to it. For removing the fan, definitely recommend removing the airbox, it has so much more room. Lining up the steering column bolt wasnt bad at all, just have to line up with the tab and ur marks, approx the engine mount holes and all the subframe holes, slowly raise up the subframe and u are there. Not a hard job at all, just more time consuming than difficult.

[SYT_Shadow]

Excellent, I'm glad everything worked out MisterClutch888

[ekfc63]

Just got my oil report back for my 160,000km (100,000 miles) '08. The oil had 10,000 miles on it. Very high Lead and Copper. I use regular 94 octane gas.



I guess its new bearing time.

[ha9981]

Originally Posted by MisterClutch888

Thank you for this thread. I did mine bearings during the weekend. It went very smooth. The upper bearings took more time to remove, but once i did couple of cylinders, i got used to it. For removing the fan, definitely recommend removing the airbox, it has so much more room. Lining up the steering column bolt wasnt bad at all, just have to line up with the tab and ur marks, approx the engine mount holes and all the subframe holes, slowly raise up the subframe and u are there. Not a hard job at all, just more time consuming than difficult.

I've been debating between doing it myself with confidence of it done right, or pay to get it done.

Was it the first time doing engine work?
How many hours did it take?
Did you do it on a lift or jack stands?

[MisterClutch888]

First time for rod bearings, but always been pretty good with hands-on stuff. I read this diy, and 100% confidence im doing this myself.

I did it on the hoist. I didnt calculate the total hours since there are lots of chilling time. But i remember, after removing the oil pan and oil pick up tubes, it was less than 3 hours. I spent the most hours on removing bearings, plastigauging, then remove bearings again. Lub them up and install. That part was most time consuming.

But all in all, you cant really mess this up. I would just be careful on putting the bearings on the caps. Line up the notch first then slide/push the other side of bearing to seat flush. Then torque the BE ARP bolts to 25 ft/lbs evenly first, then 50. Just to make sure your hands are somewhat clean. For the oil pick up tubes, make sure u push the o-rings inwards enough. And put blue locktite on all those 10mm and torx.

For the oil pan gasket, just make sure u torque them in sequence and mark each one that u torqued. And of course remember the different length of the bolts.

Well, let me know if u have any questions. Im pretty sure i can answer them as is still very fresh in my mind. Good luck.

Dont hesitate on doing this job, if you are pretty good hands-on, do it guys!

[ha9981]

MisterClutch888 yeah seems it's more work without a hoist. I'd need to buy bigger jack stands, engine support bar, and a more expensive 3/8 torque wrench (my currently one is a dewalt)

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by ha9981

MisterClutch888 yeah seems it's more work without a hoist. I'd need to buy bigger jack stands, engine support bar, and a more expensive 3/8 torque wrench (my currently one is a dewalt)

You can "try" the torque adjust of that dewalt with a bucket full of water hanging on the torque wrench handle (parallel to the ground plan). Just calculate how much weight force the bucket will do, and adjust the torque wrench to that value: if it clicks before hanging the bucket completely, the real torque adjust is below the indicated. If it doesn't click, pull the bucket down and see how much force is needed to reach the click. If it's a slight force, then it's okay. If it's too much force, then you better not trust it.

Edit: Actually, you have to calculate the torque corrected by the torque wrench lenght.

[ha9981]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

You can "try" the torque adjust of that dewalt with a bucket full of water hanging on the torque wrench handle (parallel to the ground plan). Just calculate how much weight force the bucket will do, and adjust the torque wrench to that value: if it clicks before hanging the bucket completely, the real torque adjust is below the indicated. If it doesn't click, pull the bucket down and see how much force is needed to reach the click. If it's a slight force, then it's okay. If it's too much force, then you better not trust it.

Edit: Actually, you have to calculate the torque corrected by the torque wrench lenght.

What's considered a good torque wrench? Do I have to go GearWrench. I don't think I'll be buying a SnapOn or MAC

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by ha9981

What's considered a good torque wrench? Do I have to go GearWrench. I don't think I'll be buying a SnapOn or MAC

I got a digital Westward. I got really good pricing cause of where I worked. Not sure if these are an option for you.

On another note, some places will rent you torque tools. I know we used to get some at a mine I used to work at. Perhaps you could rent a good one for this job.

Cheers,

[pbonsalb]

You can buy a quality 3/8 wrench for around $100. CDI and Precision are top names. And the HF Icon was recently tested by Grassroots Motorsports to be as accurate or more accurate than most of the big names.

As others have said, you can test the calibration using DIY instructions you can search for. There are also little digital torque boxes you can attach to measure the torque; they claim to be accurate within a few percent.

[MisterClutch888]

Originally Posted by ha9981

What's considered a good torque wrench? Do I have to go GearWrench. I don't think I'll be buying a SnapOn or MAC

I borrowed a snap-on 3/8" from a friend. The 10nm one for all the 10mm and torx, i used an rven smaller torque wrench.

[ha9981]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

You can buy a quality 3/8 wrench for around $100. CDI and Precision are top names. And the HF Icon was recently tested by Grassroots Motorsports to be as accurate or more accurate than most of the big names.

As others have said, you can test the calibration using DIY instructions you can search for. There are also little digital torque boxes you can attach to measure the torque; they claim to be accurate within a few percent.

The 3/8" Dewalt ($100usd on Amazon) should be more than good enough then, I see motorcycle engine builders who hobby using a HarborFreight.

Will do a sanity check by getting a more traditional 3/8" deflecting beam torque wrench. Probably use that for the lower torque ranges and it's also useful for spark plugs.

[da jemster]

Curious...why is it recommended to try to complete the job with one rotation of the crank/engine?

Danny, when I followed your E46, I used OEM bolts and I had messed up on 5 of them and had to get new ones. I learned that I should practice the 130 degree before using the new bolts. During this learning curve, I made about 3 full rotations of the engine. Like I mentioned in my other thread, this was back Nov 2017 and I've put 22k since then with no issues.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by ha9981

The 3/8" Dewalt ($100usd on Amazon) should be more than good enough then, I see motorcycle engine builders who hobby using a HarborFreight.

Will do a sanity check by getting a more traditional 3/8" deflecting beam torque wrench. Probably use that for the lower torque ranges and it's also useful for spark plugs.

I would at least test the calibration of the dewalt against another wrench or two. The rod bolt torque specs are serious. You May want a 1/4 drive for low torque. The 3/8 may do 10 to 80 lbs but it is most accurate in the middle and the least at the extremes.

A cheap wrench that has been tested may be better than a fancy wrench that is well used and has not been tested.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by da jemster

Curious...why is it recommended to try to complete the job with one rotation of the crank/engine?

Danny, when I followed your E46, I used OEM bolts and I had messed up on 5 of them and had to get new ones. I learned that I should practice the 130 degree before using the new bolts. During this learning curve, I made about 3 full rotations of the engine. Like I mentioned in my other thread, this was back Nov 2017 and I've put 22k since then with no issues.

I don't think it's actually needed, but like the vanos work back in the day, I feel better rotating the engine, making sure the lube/oil touches all the rotating parts, seeing if anything touches it

In the S65 each bolt is 9 steps, so unless you use the BE-ARP bolts it requires a LOT of steps!