DIY: S65 Throttle Actuator

[drivetolive]

Originally Posted by TX

It's been a few years since I did mine, but if I remember correctly, The actuators will have spring tension on it when the butterflies are closed (off). You will need to pull up on the arm to make them line up. Then push the ball end back over the fitting.

Thanks for the response. I ended up putting everything back together and the car started and ran fine. Guess it was just my paranoia.

This DIY was a life saver . My back and fingers hate me though.

[XKxRome0ox]

yeah i had to fiddle around with the "nipples" as well to make them fit
i kept thinking... this is all that's keeping the throttle actuators connected and opening and closing the flaps ??
felt kinda flimsy

anyway
has anyone experienced a BUZZING sound in the engine bay after taking the plenum off and putting it back on?
i have a feeling i did something wrong after the TA swap (and taking the plenum off again because i had to check on a different noise issue)

it gets louder than this
and it's weird ... it only starts to buzz after i've drive about 30+ minutes
my daily commute is about 12 miles
it starts buzzing when i am almost at work in the morning ...
but the same drive back, it doesn't start to buzz because it takes less than 30 minutes due to less traffic

i just haven't had time to open it back up again
but i hope it's just a matter of tightening or loosening one of those ring things under the plenum
or realigning it

[drivetolive]

Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox

yeah i had to fiddle around with the "nipples" as well to make them fit
i kept thinking... this is all that's keeping the throttle actuators connected and opening and closing the flaps ??
felt kinda flimsy

anyway
has anyone experienced a BUZZING sound in the engine bay after taking the plenum off and putting it back on?
i have a feeling i did something wrong after the TA swap (and taking the plenum off again because i had to check on a different noise issue)

it gets louder than this
and it's weird ... it only starts to buzz after i've drive about 30+ minutes
my daily commute is about 12 miles
it starts buzzing when i am almost at work in the morning ...
but the same drive back, it doesn't start to buzz because it takes less than 30 minutes due to less traffic

i just haven't had time to open it back up again
but i hope it's just a matter of tightening or loosening one of those ring things under the plenum
or realigning it

Weird. No odd issues here. I will note however that when putting my plenum back on it took quite a bit of force to get the intake tubes to seat into the throttle bodies. Hopefully it's something as simple as re-installing the plenum!

[Deadmon]

Just reporting back since I got this done a while ago (along with a ton of other replacements).

In hindsight, just doing the actuator replacement was fairly straightforward, even for someone like me who's never done any engine work before.

I did accidentally snap the connector that's attached to the back of the arm? that covers the actuators. I simply used twist ties to hold it down afterwards.

Putting the plenum back on wasn't too bad, I read a comment elsewhere to put a bit of grease on the inside of each sleeve so the plenum can fit in nicely. The trick though is to have each clamp loose enough, but if you have it too loose you may "push" the clamp bolts in as you're tightening, make it a pain to reach. A 6mm deep socket can really help, along with a screwdriver.

I also had a borescope handy (because I dropped a few things), which made navigating the screwdriver/socket to the harder reaching clamp bolts easier.

[XKxRome0ox]

Originally Posted by Deadmon

I did accidentally snap the connector that's attached to the back of the arm? that covers the actuators. I simply used twist ties to hold it down afterwards.

i snapped the same thing and used zip tie to put it back in place haha

[Schneidwerks]

I can't imagine how much money I saved doing this myself. The gear for the lever was in pieces when I opened the actuator. Ordered a new one on EBAY for $125. Thanks for the write up! She is back up and running again and I can stop being sad now haha.

[E46tknv]

Is there a reset required after install?

[Schneidwerks]

Originally Posted by E46tknv

Is there a reset required after install?

No there isn't.

[roninCoder]

My e92 danced the M3 Meringue - within 100 miles of purchase the DSC warnings started; three months later the car was mostly in limp mode.

I purchased a pair of actuators from M Power Motorsports (rebuilt with lifetime warranty) and replaced the original actuators. The following are my observations to add to the body of knowledge.

1. Plenum removal. Folks have described using various socket extensions to get to the clamps that hold the plenum on to the throttle bodies. An alternative is to use a flexible 6mm nut driver (about $9). Get the one with the fixed head; I ordered the version with the detachable head and it detached. This tool makes dealing the the clamps easy.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2. Plenum installation. Instructions describe positioning the clamps and tightening them enough so they don't move when remounting the plenum and tightening the clamps. I spent two hours trying to get the plenum to seat properly without success. Finally, I loosened each of the clamps to the point where the clamp could be rotated freely. I counted on the rubber stop to keep the clamps in the correct position. The plenum then seated with no issues and I tightened the clamps without a problem. With the flexible nut driver, one doesn't have to apply much pressure to the clamp and it will stay in position for tightening. If you are tightening the clamp and it doesn't tighten in a few turns, the plenum isn't seated. Remove the plenum, reset the clamps and start over. Start with the clamps in the back. For the two in the back on the passenger side, I favored holding the tool in my left hand and a flashlight in my right. For the other clamps, the opposite.

3. Connectors. I cracked one of the tva connectors because I thought the "button" to release it was the feature on the tva end of the connector. The release was actually on the wire end. It will make a sound when it is released. These connectors are kind of fragile. One piece of information that is glossed over in the instructions is how to release each of the connectors. I struggled to figure out how to separate several of the connectors and there is only so much bending, tugging and squeezing these things will take before they fail. For the record, for the connectors with the M shaped wire, squeeze the wire towards the connector. For the tva connectors, press down on the latch which is at the wire end of the connector. That will lever up the catch. For that tubular connector in the V that is held by a metal u clamp, I never figured out how to get that separated. Luckily, removing it from the clamp creates enough slack to lift the wiring bundle sufficiently to extract the tva's.

4. Quality control. When I finished and buttoned up everything, I started the car and got 19!! faults, mostly can-bus issues. And one fault for the bank 1 tva. It turns out the tva connector was not fully seated. It seemed tight when I tugged on it but repeated tugging caused it to eventually slide off. Reseating it until the connector "clicked" solved the 19!! failures.

5. Cleaning. Since the plenum was off I took advantage and cleaned the throttle bodies. I sprayed throttle body cleaner on the blue shop paper towels and rubbed away the carbon buildup. Don't use the blue shop paper towels. One of them tore and allowed a piece to float down into the valve train. I managed to fish it out. Use cloth instead.

The greatest time-sinks for this project were trying to figure out how to separate some of the connectors, and trying to correctly reseat the plenum. Both of these issues were due to unfamiliarity with the correct way to perform these tasks. I suspect with experience this job could be done in two hours. I rate this project as no more difficult than replacing the distributor cap and rotor on an e30. Follow the instructions, take care with the wiring (broken wires will place you in the 10th circle of Hell), be patient and check your work before starting the car.

One final note: Without the instructions on this forum, I would never have attempted to do this myself. Thanks for the effort.

[Helmsman]

Lots of good info in this thread to prepare for future TA replacement. One question though, I had limp mode with the infamous 2B15 code 3-4 times over the last 6 weeks or so. Clear the code and the car drives fine again for a week or two. Most folks seems to get limp mode and done. Thinking whether it could be a matter of cleaning/lubing the control arms in my case or if some others had their TAs confirmed going the same way?

Thanks

[Abdul]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Lots of good info in this thread to prepare for future TA replacement. One question though, I had limp mode with the infamous 2B15 code 3-4 times over the last 6 weeks or so. Clear the code and the car drives fine again for a week or two. Most folks seems to get limp mode and done. Thinking whether it could be a matter of cleaning/lubing the control arms in my case or if some others had their TAs confirmed going the same way?

Thanks

Most Actuators go out in the same manner you have described. Initially, you will get into Limp Mode once in a while. At this point, once you start again, the lights go away. After some time, you will have to clear the codes for limp mode to go away. Eventually, no matter what you do, you will be in LimpMode until you replace your actuators.


If you have experienced limp mode even once, there is no point in lubing or changing the gears. Some electrical component is faulty by then.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by Abdul@mpowermotorsports

Most Actuators go out in the same manner you have described. Initially, you will get into Limp Mode once in a while. At this point, once you start again, the lights go away. After some time, you will have to clear the codes for limp mode to go away. Eventually, no matter what you do, you will be in LimpMode until you replace your actuators.


If you have experienced limp mode even once, there is no point in lubing or changing the gears. Some electrical component is faulty by then.

Many thanks for the input Abdul! Seems boling down to replacement. Local shops push to use OEM so I'll aim to do it myself using Jason.

Thanks again!

[MTM]

Had the dreaded TA1 failure last week. THANKS to this forum and the great information from the OP, I was able to replace them fairly easily. Since I was in there for TA1, car is 10 years old, and I hope to drive it for many more years I decided to proactively change TA2 at the same time.

And...M Power Motorsports really took care of me. I was leaving the country in a few days and they were able to fast ship two replacements to me. Parts worked perfectly.

Some minor hints:
a. When doing both, I found that pulling out TA1 gives much more space to then remove and install TA2 before putting a TA1 back in.
b. I have two very short vids of the BEFORE starting sequence showing how TA1 was stuck, and then the AFTER sequence where both move freely. PM your email address if you want to see them (I can't be bothered to join a vid hosting page).

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by MTM

Had the dreaded TA1 failure last week. THANKS to this forum and the great information from the OP, I was able to replace them fairly easily. Since I was in there for TA1, car is 10 years old, and I hope to drive it for many more years I decided to proactively change TA2 at the same time.

And...M Power Motorsports really took care of me. I was leaving the country in a few days and they were able to fast ship two replacements to me. Parts worked perfectly.

Some minor hints:
a. When doing both, I found that pulling out TA1 gives much more space to then remove and install TA2 before putting a TA1 back in.
b. I have two very short vids of the BEFORE starting sequence showing how TA1 was stuck, and then the AFTER sequence where both move freely. PM your email address if you want to see them (I can't be bothered to join a vid hosting page).

Replaced both TAs with Rebuild UK. Bit of a project but seem ok. After coming home from the garage - scanning no codes on my way home - I realized I forgot to connect the hose on the front plenum. Anyone know what its for?

Thanks

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Replaced both TAs with Rebuild UK. Bit of a project but seem ok. After coming home from the garage - scanning no codes on my way home - I realized I forgot to connect the hose on the front plenum. Anyone know what its for?

Thanks

It's the suction hose for your air pump that slowly warms up your cats...

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by SAMM3Y

It's the suction hose for your air pump that slowly warms up your cats...

Thanks Sammy! So should be okay for that to survive on non cleaned air for another day.

Cheers

Ps. Any idea why that would require filtered air?

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Thanks Sammy! So should be okay for that to survive on non cleaned air for another day.

Cheers

Ps. Any idea why that would require filtered air?

Keep dust and debris out of pump and cats

It'll be fine ,only pumps during cold start, if you're tuned to remove cold start it won't run that pump anyway

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by SAMM3Y

Keep dust and debris out of pump and cats

It'll be fine ,only pumps during cold start, if you're tuned to remove cold start it won't run that pump anyway

Btw seem to be crank case vent (i.e. not the thicker hose running above the valve cover, but this: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=WL93-USA-08-2008-E93-BMW-M3&diagId=11_4117).
Anyways, will try to get it back today hopefully without the need to loosing/wiggle the plenum itself.

Cheers

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Btw seem to be crank case vent (i.e. not the thicker hose running above the valve cover, but this: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4117).
Anyways, will try to get it back today hopefully without the need to loosing/wiggle the plenum itself.

Cheers

Hose in place, all good.

Oh, and a million thanks to the OP!

Ps. Btw I loosened my harnes slightly differently not having to disconnect the tricky connector on top, on passenger side, just pulled it out of its metall frame. Instead disconnected an easier one below the plastic frame driver side. Also didnt have to disconnect any of the two closest to the wind shield. Plastic frame was just about possible to pull up and push towards wind shield resting on its studs, no need for a pipe under the frame to access the actuators.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by Abdul@mpowermotorsports

Most Actuators go out in the same manner you have described. Initially, you will get into Limp Mode once in a while. At this point, once you start again, the lights go away. After some time, you will have to clear the codes for limp mode to go away. Eventually, no matter what you do, you will be in LimpMode until you replace your actuators.


If you have experienced limp mode even once, there is no point in lubing or changing the gears. Some electrical component is faulty by then.

Abdul btw, funny I noticed a distinct change (improvement!) in the throttle down shift blip since I changed TA's. Surely they can't be the reason, if the play was that bad I'd assume it would've been constant limp mode? Thoughts?

Thanks

[A-sam]

Nice!

[omgzirra_exe]

was getting limp mode bank 1 failure during aggressive downshifts...from 4k+ rpm opened up the actuators to find the gear chewed to pieces which i would assume caused the issue, the board look perfect, didn't look burnt.

replaced the gears with odometer, let it cure for a day. took it out for a drive and no more limp mode on downshifts. well it did it once, but that was user error on my end. i can now downshift from 7th to 4th with out having to slow down to lower rpms. and same for 4th to 2nd.

again this only happened when i was above 4k rpm and aggressively downshifting.

this was really annoying for me, since i track the car.

sometimes i wonder if the GTS tune caused the limp mode lol.

i also want to add, i also did a adaptation reset on the trans as well. + clutch re learn.