WingZeroX5's Maintenance Log

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

If you did all that other work yourself, you can handle bearings. It's $500 to $1000 in parts depending on what bearings and what bolts you buy plus a long day of your time.

In that case, I'll consider DIY-ing . Want to come down and help? I'll upgrade your vehicle software while that's going on.

[pbonsalb]

I would be up for that. I live in Concord and Hampton. Where are you?

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I would be up for that. I live in Concord and Hampton. Where are you?

Hudson

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

In that case, I'll consider DIY-ing . Want to come down and help? I'll upgrade your vehicle software while that's going on.

In this video you have *the cold start clunk noise* => exactly at 12 sec. runtime.

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

In this video you have *the cold start clunk noise* => exactly at 12 sec. runtime.

Yeah i dunno where that comes from. I do know that if the car sits overnight and I start in the morning, i would hear it

If i drain the oil for fresh, it is there

But it is not there at every cold start though

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

Yeah i dunno where that comes from. I do know that if the car sits overnight and I start in the morning, i would hear it

If i drain the oil for fresh, it is there

But it is not there at every cold start though

Yeah I know it from day 1 . You/We actually have this => http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...ight=LIMITLESS

It doesn't hurt our S65s , your car is proof of it with 150K on it !
I have it too like most of the S65s all over the world , but when I daily drive my car I don't hear the noise .
When Mike-Benvo tuned my S65 via Skype with the remote cable , he said he heard the noise all over the world through Skype..
The cold start clunk noise is caused by the S65 Vanos-Gears .

[Down_Shift]

Originally Posted by gordon@

Slow clap.... 150k miles and still on the original bearings. Are you not worried?

Dunno why you would be paranoid on a car with 150k. If they let go, it's prob a better investment just to get a new motor at this point. This Thing is running strong and no reason to open Pandora's box. I'd say enjoy her and drive it like you are. You're probably getting more out of your car than the people on the forum posting bout every metallic clunk and jumping to bearing conclusions. Don't forget the recent Main bearing thread that had everyone paranoid bout that too. It's a car. There's always risks and issues.



Oil analysis is like playing roulette too.

[pbonsalb]

I would do what I believed was reasonable to get 200 or 250k out of the motor before rebuilding. If I do the clutch in a couple of years I might do the main bearings and change the rod bearings again (changed them at 60k and coming up on 90k and maybe I'll be at 120k in a few years).

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Wow original throttle actuators. Although I had money budget to replace them in case they break, it's nice to see you have a chance to not have to.

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Wow original throttle actuators. Although I had money budget to replace them in case they break, it's nice to see you have a chance to not have to.

Buy them at FCPEuro so its a one time purchase, lifetime warrantee replacemenr

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

Buy them at FCPEuro so its a one time purchase, lifetime warrantee replacemenr

Yeah, if I need to do them I will get them from FCP euro even if I'm not in the USA. It's like one of the only things that are worth to do.

[DSpencer18]

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

Parts are lifetime warrantied through FCPEuro.

Not sure how they can afford this, but they gained a new customer. That's service.

edit - prices are pretty steep so I guess that's it. Still seems like a hassle, bet they get a shit load of returns, exchanges, etc.

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by DSpencer18

Not sure how they can afford this, but they gained a new customer. That's service.

edit - prices are pretty steep so I guess that's it. Still seems like a hassle, bet they get a shit load of returns, exchanges, etc.

Not really a hassel, if a part breaks just buy the new one and return the broken part with a warranty form filled out.

It is not that much more expensive on most parts, they used to price match before they took that away recently

Well worth it if replacing cosmetic/plastic parts that break frequently...ie) under panels

[DSpencer18]

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

Not really a hassel, if a part breaks just buy the new one and return the broken part with a warranty form filled out.

It is not that much more expensive on most parts, they used to price match before they took that away recently

Well worth it if replacing cosmetic/plastic parts that break frequently...ie) under panels

I was talking about it being a hassle for the business. I was looking at it from their prospective. I think it's awesome for the consumer and will be looking into them next time I need something!

[WingZeroX5]

165k updated with vid

Edit: Added oil report.
I was messing around with the coolant during this OCI because I wanted to flush it. I also mentioned previously that I have a very tiny leak, which I guess it is starting to show up now. I'll wait until 172500 miles unless things get troublesome.

[Honda]

You didn't need to do any gasket change at all during your ownership? Like the infamous DCT pan leak or the valve cover gasket?

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by Honda

You didn't need to do any gasket change at all during your ownership? Like the infamous DCT pan leak or the valve cover gasket?

Funny you mention those two, because they've been on my list for quite some time, but never had the need to do them...yet...AND I've just placed the parts in my cart from FCP two days ago

Valve cover - no, because nothing was leaking, quite possibly until now
DCT - I noticed the pan was sweating with oil while I performed the fluid change at 100k. About the correct amount of fluid came out so I never bothered with it.

I know something is/was leaking, it's just that the problem was so minor (for me at least) that I just kept an eye on my garage floor. Plus, I hate changing fluids on the floor. Now that I have a lift, I'm way more inclined to change the gaskets, especially the DCT pan/gasket/filter (again).

[WingZeroX5]

170k and 172.5k updated

[Honda]

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

170k and 172.5k updated

Which tool did you use to remove the coils?

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by Honda

Which tool did you use to remove the coils?

Division M

You don't necessarily need it, I did it before without it and used a Cat5 cable. Certainly makes things easier though

[Honda]

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

Division M

You don't necessarily need it, I did it before without it and used a Cat5 cable. Certainly makes things easier though

How did you break the coil if you werr using this tool?

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by Honda

How did you break the coil if you werr using this tool?

For the coil passenger side last one at the firewall, I used a 24mm wrench as leverage to pop the coil out. I went the wrong way at first, the resulting action was prying the top part out while it's suctioned in the spark tube. That's when I had to resort to my trusty cat5 and pull the the whole thing out