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      04-01-2012, 10:06 AM   #1
Lerxst M4
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First Post...and New Door Lock Issue

Hey everyone. First post here and new to the ///M community.

Picked up my CPO 08 E90 on Thursday and all has been well up until this morning.

Went out to the car to take her for a drive and after I got back from the store I went to lock the car with the remote and I heard what sounded like the door locks do a very quick cycle (almost like a blllrrrrrp) and then nothing.

Now I can lock the driver (only) door but the passenger side and the driver rear stays unlocked whether I use the remote or the button on the dash. The driver door will not unlock unless I use the actual key in the door after I roll down the window.

I found this thread: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...t=locks+driver but it seems that all of his doors locked. Of course it's Sunday and none of the dealerships are closed.

I am having trouble locating the correct search terms to see if there are any other issues like this so please be gentle.

Thanks in advance.

Chris Connor
Houston, TX area.
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      04-01-2012, 10:12 AM   #2
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You best visit your dealer, sounds to me like a wiring malfunction. They will straighten it out for you.

Good luck.

PS. we have the same issue on our 25 year old 535is some years back she was re-painted since some idiot keyed the car all around. Ever since the paint job the rear driver side door does not lock with the key. I will check into this this summer make it a weekend project once the weather is agreeable and I can take the door apart.
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      04-01-2012, 10:16 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alter Peter View Post
You best visit your dealer, sounds to me like a wiring malfunction. They will straighten it out for you.

Good luck.

PS. we have the same issue on our 25 year old 535is some years back she was re-painted since some idiot keyed the car all around. Ever since the paint job the rear driver side door does not lock with the key. I will check into this this summer make it a weekend project once the weather is agreeable and I can take the door apart.
If only this could have happened yesterday I could have taken it then. :\

Thanks for the reply and I will see what they say tomorrow. Not fun to have an issue so soon after purchase (not that it is fun to have it happen ANYTIME after purchase).
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      04-01-2012, 10:17 AM   #4
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check your fuse box

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=321638
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      04-01-2012, 10:22 AM   #5
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61,72,73,79
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      04-01-2012, 10:23 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connorcp View Post
If only this could have happened yesterday I could have taken it then. :\

Thanks for the reply and I will see what they say tomorrow. Not fun to have an issue so soon after purchase (not that it is fun to have it happen ANYTIME after purchase).
It's a minor inconvenience you be okay ... (checking the fuse box is a good start - it is a good suggestion from the fellow above).

Welcome BTW to the forum and Congratulations on your find ... drive safely!
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      04-01-2012, 10:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuespeedgti View Post
61,72,73,79
Thank you...heading out now to check.
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      04-01-2012, 10:24 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuespeedgti View Post
61,72,73,79
good recommendation !
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      04-01-2012, 10:49 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuespeedgti View Post
61,72,73,79
Well, it looks as if the #73 was the culprit.

Thank you so much for the suggestion and HOPEFULLY this was my one 'newbie crisis moment' post.

Balance is restored to my galaxy.
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      04-01-2012, 10:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connorcp View Post
Well, it looks as if the #73 was the culprit.

Thank you so much for the suggestion and HOPEFULLY this was my one 'newbie crisis moment' post.

Balance is restored to my galaxy.
it might have just been an isolated incident but could actually be something larger. how much longer is your warranty intact? that fuse may blow again if there is an actual wiring issue.

glad i could help enjoy the new ride.
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      04-01-2012, 11:00 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuespeedgti View Post
it might have just been an isolated incident but could actually be something larger. how much longer is your warranty intact? that fuse may blow again if there is an actual wiring issue.

glad i could help enjoy the new ride.
You make an excellent point !

OP follow up with your dealership if it happens again, keep a record in your glove box Happy Travels !
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      04-01-2012, 11:29 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuespeedgti View Post
it might have just been an isolated incident but could actually be something larger. how much longer is your warranty intact? that fuse may blow again if there is an actual wiring issue.

glad i could help enjoy the new ride.
As AP stated...that was an excellent question.

I will be calling them tomorrow to get the issue looked at. I need to bring the car in anyway to have them take care of a few cosmetic things that I pointed out when I was in the process of buying it and will make this issue known as well. Just to keep me out of trouble, I will be buying a handful of 15A fuses today to keep handy.

The car is an 08 CPO model with 40K on the clock.
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      04-01-2012, 08:12 PM   #13
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It will blow again, just give it some time

In fact, there was a service bulletin. It happened twice on my car. The soluion was to replace with a higher amperage fuse..
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      04-02-2012, 06:05 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo
It will blow again, just give it some time

In fact, there was a service bulletin. It happened twice on my car. The soluion was to replace with a higher amperage fuse..
On the m3? I thought that was for fuse 57 on early model e90's

edit: found the service bulletin. doesn't include m3's as our fuses are numbered differently then the non m e90.

SUBJECT
Doors Will Not Unlock Using the Key Fob or Central Locking Button

MODEL
E90, E91 (3 Series) produced up to 11/2008 SITUATION
One or more of the doors may not unlock when using the remote key outside the vehicle, or the central locking button inside the car. It is still possible, however, to unlock the door by using the key in the driver’s door lock cylinder or by pulling the door handle on the inside of the car.Typically fault codes A6D4 and A6D5 are stored in the Junction Box Electronics (JBBF).CAUSE
This is due to a blown fuse in the JBBF caused by either:

An excessive amperage draw by one of the door lock actuators, which is commonly attributed to silicone contamination; or
An intermittent, but acceptable, amperage spike slightly above 15A, due to normal variation in the locking system.
CORRECTION
Replace the fuse with one of a different rating.Replace the necessary actuator as well, but only if it is drawing excessive amperage.

PARTS INFORMATION

Part Number Description Quantity
51 21 7 263 086 Door latch kit (contains both left and right latches) As required
51 22 7 060 295 Door latch – left rear As required
51 22 7 060 296 Door latch – right rear As required
61 13 6 942 071 20 Amp mini fuse 1
PS: Check the fuses before spending hundreds of dollars at BMW to fix something that cost $0.15 and will only take 30 minutes of your time.

** Following the service bulletin SIB-51-19-07 you should replace the fuse with a 20amp one.

Last edited by audioMeth; 04-02-2012 at 08:17 PM..
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      05-18-2013, 01:18 PM   #15
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Why would there be an intermittent, variable spike in amperage above 15, that BMW knows about? If that's a normal condition, they should have put in the 20A from the beginning. Kinda stupid. Does anyone know an easy way to test the amperage draw on the actuator with a multimeter DIY?
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      05-22-2013, 08:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cotenseto View Post
Why would there be an intermittent, variable spike in amperage above 15, that BMW knows about? If that's a normal condition, they should have put in the 20A from the beginning. Kinda stupid. Does anyone know an easy way to test the amperage draw on the actuator with a multimeter DIY?
Assuming your meter has a fast enough transient response to see the real peak value, you can do this two ways depending on how you feel. one way keeps protection in the circuit, one way doesn't.

If you remove the fuse that controls current to the actuator and use the meter's probes putting them where each blade of the fuse would insert into the holder you can get a current measurement when you energize the actuator. However if you are getting an excessive spike this could be bad as you have no fuse protection (aside from what's in your meter if applicable).

Another way you could do it is to buy a blade fuse holder that has a "pigtail" or wire leads coming off of it. one lead you would put into the fuse holder where a blade of the fuse would go, one probe goes into the holder where the other blade would go, and the extra wire connects to the extra probe to complete the circuit. You can then energize the actuator and get a current measurement.

When you want to measure current in a DC circuit, you want the meter to be an element that is in series with the rest of the loop you are testing. When you want to test voltage, the meter becomes an element that is placed in parallel across the element you want to test.
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      05-22-2013, 08:11 PM   #17
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Had this happen three times over 5 years. Fix was two years ago replacing fuse with higher amperage. No issues to date.
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      05-22-2013, 08:11 PM   #18
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That sucks
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