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      03-05-2020, 07:07 PM   #1
s0ldats
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has anyone used this subframe bushing tool?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E82-E90...-/333158778716

seems very simple compared to the bav auto tool, but does it work well?
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      03-05-2020, 09:54 PM   #2
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Interesting find, curious to see if forum members have experience with the tool.
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      03-05-2020, 11:11 PM   #3
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I bought one last week but not sure when I'll have time for the install.
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      03-07-2020, 11:26 AM   #4
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The OP of the below thread used it. I have used it also. There are likely others who have used it. It works for removal of stock subframe bushings. The poly bushings I installed could be installed by hand. It seems a shop press or a better tool is needed to install metal bushings.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1633323
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      04-25-2020, 03:15 PM   #5
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I used this tool but the rod can bend easily if you don't line up the tool straight. Buy a few extra 1/2 inch x 8 inch threaded rod and extra nuts then you are good to go. It works very well
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      04-26-2020, 06:47 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalbe View Post
The OP of the below thread used it. I have used it also. There are likely others who have used it. It works for removal of stock subframe bushings. The poly bushings I installed could be installed by hand. It seems a shop press or a better tool is needed to install metal bushings.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1633323
Yes, that's me. It's good for about half the job. Would be nice if there were one tool for both removal and installation, but haven't seen one yet. It's pretty good for the removal of both the front and rear subframe bushings. On the front ones I don't see, given how tight the interference fit is (if you are replacing with the billet aluminum ones) on the bushings, how it would ever work (the thin flange thing bends). You really need a press and a 3.00" inside diameter pipe to get the front ones on properly.
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      04-27-2020, 02:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justint5387 View Post
I used this tool but the rod can bend easily if you don't line up the tool straight. Buy a few extra 1/2 inch x 8 inch threaded rod and extra nuts then you are good to go. It works very well
did you use it to install or only remove?
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      09-21-2021, 08:36 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorH View Post
Yes, that's me. It's good for about half the job. Would be nice if there were one tool for both removal and installation, but haven't seen one yet. It's pretty good for the removal of both the front and rear subframe bushings. On the front ones I don't see, given how tight the interference fit is (if you are replacing with the billet aluminum ones) on the bushings, how it would ever work (the thin flange thing bends). You really need a press and a 3.00" inside diameter pipe to get the front ones on properly.
Did you support the subframe gap when you tried to press the bushing in? That might have been the issue why you couldn't use the tool without breaking it
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      09-21-2021, 05:39 PM   #9
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I used that tool to remove the oem rubber bushings and it was painless and worked perfectly. I installed condor speed shop Delrin replacements which I was able to tap into place with a rubber mallet, so I don’t know how the tool works for the install portion.
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      09-21-2021, 06:03 PM   #10
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I bought it as well a couple months ago, figured it was worth a shot for the price. I was planning on dry freezing the aluminum bushings prior to install. I did think the bolt was a bit shaky though. Worst case scenario I figured I'd take it to a machine shop or Indy to press in if I fail
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      09-21-2021, 09:35 PM   #11
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Harbor Freight 12 ton press and you'll get it in. No freezing science experiments needed. I put a light film of oil on the bushings and it went in without a fuss with the press.

I've used the press for various other jobs as well such as front tension arm monoball replacement & pressing new bearings into the rear wheel hubs.

You can always sell the press afterward if you dont have the space for it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajolives View Post
I bought it as well a couple months ago, figured it was worth a shot for the price. I was planning on dry freezing the aluminum bushings prior to install. I did think the bolt was a bit shaky though. Worst case scenario I figured I'd take it to a machine shop or Indy to press in if I fail
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      09-21-2021, 10:13 PM   #12
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I used this to remove the old bush. Worked fine. I dry iced bw solids in an attempt to try and install them with the same tool. It didn't work. Ended up stripping the threads of the bolt. I upgraded the bolt and nut, still didn't work. I ended up dropping the subframe and putting it in a h frame 20 ton press and it was done in minutes. I wouldn't recommend attempting to install solids with this tool, the eBay description was accurate so I can't be mad…. In the end it cost me time, effort and $120 for tool, hardware and dry ice. I was trying to be slick and do it without removing the subframe.
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      09-22-2021, 07:04 AM   #13
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They've sold 196 so it cant be bad
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      09-22-2021, 12:34 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by amrazM View Post
They've sold 196 so it cant be bad
They sold so many but we have like a handful of reviews here-. Who is buying them all.

I ordered one 😂
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      09-22-2021, 05:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M43S7RO View Post
Harbor Freight 12 ton press and you'll get it in. No freezing science experiments needed. I put a light film of oil on the bushings and it went in without a fuss with the press.

I've used the press for various other jobs as well such as front tension arm monoball replacement & pressing new bearings into the rear wheel hubs.

You can always sell the press afterward if you dont have the space for it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajolives View Post
I bought it as well a couple months ago, figured it was worth a shot for the price. I was planning on dry freezing the aluminum bushings prior to install. I did think the bolt was a bit shaky though. Worst case scenario I figured I'd take it to a machine shop or Indy to press in if I fail
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAMM3Y View Post
I used this to remove the old bush. Worked fine. I dry iced bw solids in an attempt to try and install them with the same tool. It didn't work. Ended up stripping the threads of the bolt. I upgraded the bolt and nut, still didn't work. I ended up dropping the subframe and putting it in a h frame 20 ton press and it was done in minutes. I wouldn't recommend attempting to install solids with this tool, the eBay description was accurate so I can't be mad…. In the end it cost me time, effort and $120 for tool, hardware and dry ice. I was trying to be slick and do it without removing the subframe.

Bummer, guess Harbor Freight it is. Add a transmission trolly to the list too. Thanks for the heads up!
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      10-01-2021, 07:09 PM   #16
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So far got three subframe bushings out with this while the subframe was bolted to the car but lowered. Last bushing (driver front) will be removed tomorrow but I definately need to remove the brake line nowx. The other three do not need anything disconnected
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      10-02-2021, 12:21 PM   #17
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Just my 2 Cents…
Sam and throatpunch brought this up earlier, and I'd also like to reinforce how important I feel it is to get a snug fitting spacer to keep the bores in alignment with each other when installing the new bushings.
If there is ANY deflection, as you are pressing the new bushing in, the two bores will become misaligned and I believe the force required to install will dramatically increase.
I used a hydraulic press to do my installation, and my opinion is that because my spacer fit so well, the force required to install never exceeded 3 tons.
I didn't experience any of the "pops" or high forces others have reported.

So I'd guess that to give yourself the best chance for the hand tool to work for installation, you'll want to spend the effort to get a good support between the frame halves worked out.
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      10-02-2021, 01:06 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davisca455 View Post
Just my 2 Cents…
Sam and throatpunch brought this up earlier, and I'd also like to reinforce how important I feel it is to get a snug fitting spacer to keep the bores in alignment with each other when installing the new bushings.
If there is ANY deflection, as you are pressing the new bushing in, the two bores will become misaligned and I believe the force required to install will dramatically increase.
I used a hydraulic press to do my installation, and my opinion is that because my spacer fit so well, the force required to install never exceeded 3 tons.
I didn't experience any of the "pops" or high forces others have reported.

So I'd guess that to give yourself the best chance for the hand tool to work for installation, you'll want to spend the effort to get a good support between the frame halves worked out.
Agreed and it totally makes sense. I decided to go poly as I didn't feel like dealing with trying to balance subframe on a press or bringing it somewhere. Plus I only drive my car less than 1,000 miles a year... The poly bushings went into without.much of a hassle
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      10-02-2021, 02:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Throatpunch View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Davisca455 View Post
Just my 2 Cents…
Sam and throatpunch brought this up earlier, and I'd also like to reinforce how important I feel it is to get a snug fitting spacer to keep the bores in alignment with each other when installing the new bushings.
If there is ANY deflection, as you are pressing the new bushing in, the two bores will become misaligned and I believe the force required to install will dramatically increase.
I used a hydraulic press to do my installation, and my opinion is that because my spacer fit so well, the force required to install never exceeded 3 tons.
I didn't experience any of the "pops" or high forces others have reported.

So I'd guess that to give yourself the best chance for the hand tool to work for installation, you'll want to spend the effort to get a good support between the frame halves worked out.
Agreed and it totally makes sense. I decided to go poly as I didn't feel like dealing with trying to balance subframe on a press or bringing it somewhere. Plus I only drive my car less than 1,000 miles a year... The poly bushings went into without.much of a hassle
Absolutely agree.
I didn't even attempt to try it alone and planned for it to be 2 person task.

I went with solids because I started tracking the car, and the OEM bushings made the rear of the car twitch in a really uncomfortable way.
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