Oil pan cracked + rod bearings opinions please!

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by TheRussski

Lol don’t listen to people saying to go with OEM bearings. VAC or wait for BE and do it right the first time.

This is opinion. Don't mislead folks. Just replace them should be the mantra. What is used is really nothing more than debate. Claims have been made and nothing more when it comes to parts.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by Scharbag

BE and WPC are totally different animals.

BE is designed to resolve the clearance issue.

WPC is an OE bearing that has been treated but does not resolve the clearance issue.

I do not plan on replacing my BE bearings.

Originally Posted by Scharbag

BE and WPC are totally different animals.

BE is designed to resolve the clearance issue.

WPC is an OE bearing that has been treated but does not resolve the clearance issue.

I do not plan on replacing my BE bearings.

VAC, BE or WPC they all wear. Not one entity has done definitive testing that matters nor ends this parts debate. They all make claims and nothing more. Just know it's a service for an awesome motor and get past these debates. Once a manufacturer of the parts runs 3 cars equally on 3 sets of bearings multiple times.....I don't see reason for an allegiance to any of'em:

[NeverL8]

Originally Posted by Scharbag

There is a ton of data that describes the differences between OE, VAC, ACL, King, BE bearings. There is even a detailed thread describing the significant difference in oil flow between OE and BE bearings.

So how can you say there is no data?

Thank you!

[NeverL8]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

This is opinion. Don't mislead folks. Just replace them should be the mantra. What is used is really nothing more than debate. Claims have been made and nothing more when it comes to parts.

What really misleading is telling someone to install OEM bearings, knowingly they have clearance issues (FACT)

OP, do your research and let your common sense guide you!

[M43S7RO]

Wow, what does your skid plate look like? That is quite an impact to go through the plate and still cause that kinda damage to the pan.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

VAC, BE or WPC they all wear. Not one entity has done definitive testing that matters nor ends this parts debate. They all make claims and nothing more. Just know it's a service for an awesome motor and get past these debates. Once a manufacturer of the parts runs 3 cars equally on 3 sets of bearings multiple times.....I don't see reason for an allegiance to any of'em:

Increased clearance bearings coming out of cars are either not wearing or have very little wear.

To the OP whatever you do have them use ARP bolts, much less chance of install error than OEM bolts that have a more complex install.

There is data that increased clearance bearings have better oil flow at high rpms relative to OEM.

My understand is that there is variance when manufacturing any bearing and BE actually measures the bearings and makes sure you get a set where you won't have a tolerance stacking issue, but they cost more. Other increased bearings sets you might get a whole set that's a little on the small side, or large side, or in the middle. Your mechanic can measure them for you or you can find a shop to measure and give you a set that's going to fit right with proper clearance.

There isn't anything wrong with VAC or ACL to my knowledge but I would want someone who knows what they are doing to measure and mix the set for me.

WPC treated I don't think really fixes the root issue.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

VAC, BE or WPC they all wear. Not one entity has done definitive testing that matters nor ends this parts debate. They all make claims and nothing more. Just know it's a service for an awesome motor and get past these debates. Once a manufacturer of the parts runs 3 cars equally on 3 sets of bearings multiple times.....I don't see reason for an allegiance to any of'em:

WPC is a process. Not a product.

The ability of some to ignore data will never cease to amaze me.

[d r i v e]

Originally Posted by akkando

Increased clearance bearings coming out of cars are either not wearing or have very little wear.

To the OP whatever you do have them use ARP bolts, much less chance of install error than OEM bolts that have a more complex install.

There is data that increased clearance bearings have better oil flow at high rpms relative to OEM.

My understand is that there is variance when manufacturing any bearing and BE actually measures the bearings and makes sure you get a set where you won't have a tolerance stacking issue, but they cost more. Other increased bearings sets you might get a whole set that's a little on the small side, or large side, or in the middle. Your mechanic can measure them for you or you can find a shop to measure and give you a set that's going to fit right with proper clearance.

There isn't anything wrong with VAC or ACL to my knowledge but I would want someone who knows what they are doing to measure and mix the set for me.

WPC treated I don't think really fixes the root issue.

Interesting - what is it about the ARP bolts that's easier to install?

Noted about the measuring, very helpful thank you. I'll definitely ask the shop if they measure them prior.

[d r i v e]

Originally Posted by M43S7RO

Wow, what does your skid plate look like? That is quite an impact to go through the plate and still cause that kinda damage to the pan.

It seems like whatever was in the road hit the bottom edge of the bumper and sort of did a back flip and whacked the oil pan. You're right, the impact must have gone through the skid plate somehow; I'll take a look next time I'm at the shop. It did crack the plastic shield under the bumper pretty good on it's way there. You can see the scratch on the underside of the bumper where it first hit..

[akkando]

Originally Posted by d r i v e

Interesting - what is it about the ARP bolts that's easier to install?

Noted about the measuring, very helpful thank you. I'll definitely ask the shop if they measure them prior.

The OEM bolt install is many step process. It's probably fine if done correctly but it adds more chance of install error when it's a more complex install.

see post here of someone who used OEM
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1152861

[d r i v e]

Originally Posted by akkando

The OEM bolt install is many step process. It's probably fine if done correctly but it adds more chance of install error when it's a more complex install.

see post here of someone who used OEM
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1152861

Interesting - thanks for the info!

[Redd]

Originally Posted by akkando

The OEM bolt install is many step process. It's probably fine if done correctly but it adds more chance of install error when it's a more complex install.

see post here of someone who used OEM
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1152861

Plus the ARP bolts are reusable but stock bolts are not.

[drrust]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

VAC, BE or WPC they all wear. Not one entity has done definitive testing that matters nor ends this parts debate. They all make claims and nothing more. Just know it's a service for an awesome motor and get past these debates. Once a manufacturer of the parts runs 3 cars equally on 3 sets of bearings multiple times.....I don't see reason for an allegiance to any of'em:

Unfortunately the data for replacement bearing wear is scarce. Scrippy's WPC bearings pulled when his pan was damaged have more mileage than any of the BE bearings that have been shown after use. Keep in mind that prior to the semi-availability of BE and other increased clearance bearings, WPC was the preferred choice.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by d r i v e

Great info - thank you! It seems like the decision sort of comes down to what tolerance amongst the aftermarket options (I think I read that BE has the highest tolerance, with VAC slightly less if I remember correctly). Any preference in your opinion?

i'm no authority on the matter. my mechanic uses his own bearings spec'd to accommodate his specified coating.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1073979

[nrubenstein]

You should be able to get a used oil pan for a LOT less than the new price. Welded oil pans are more likely to leak.

(I don't have anything against a welded up pan per se - and have a heavily modified pan that's going into an E30 / S54, but when stock pans are reasonably available used, why?)

[d r i v e]

Does anyone know if there are any differences in the oil pan across the years (lci/pre-lci), e90 vs. e92, or manual vs. dct? Seems like they would be the same but wanting to make sure in case I find a used one.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by d r i v e

Does anyone know if there are any differences in the oil pan across the years (lci/pre-lci), e90 vs. e92, or manual vs. dct? Seems like they would be the same but wanting to make sure in case I find a used one.

They are the same. A higher mileage pan is going to have more oil changes (theoretically). The threads are known to be soft and easily stripped- just be aware. Welcome to Bmw.

[d r i v e]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

They are the same. A higher mileage pan is going to have more oil changes (theoretically). The threads are known to be soft and easily stripped- just be aware. Welcome to Bmw.

That sounds like fun too.. good to know - thanks for all your help!

[drrust]

Originally Posted by d r i v e

That sounds like fun too.. good to know - thanks for all your help!

Check with Deansbimmer, he sells remanufactured units with Timeserts properly installed.

[d r i v e]

Originally Posted by drrust

Check with Deansbimmer, he sells remanufactured units with Timeserts properly installed.

This is awesome, I'll send him a note - thank you! The under-tray looks tempting too..

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by M43S7RO

Wow, what does your skid plate look like? That is quite an impact to go through the plate and still cause that kinda damage to the pan.

Our skid plates have a 6" hole in the bottom. A direct unlucky hit here is all pan and no shield.

[sahilthegreat]

2 different things you asked here and reading the first page of answers, I want to chime in.

1) you can make a claim through insurance. But if they do decide to make it a collision claim (instead of a comp claim), what would you do? You would need to see whether or not it would be considered collision or comprehensive.

2) since you want to do bearings, obviously the oil pan has to come off. Grab an oil pan off of eBay (read the listing and look at photos to make sure it's good). They should go for around $600 (as compared to the $15xx I saw somewhere. Also, the oil pan is aluminum, so I don't know if you can really fix it. You probably can, it might just be worth buying a used one.

3) let's talk about bearings
BMW did change the bearings, but it doesn't resolve the issue. BE would be your best bet for bearings, but I believe they're on back order. When I did my bearings, I went with the WPC coated ones (aka VAC). I have a friend with an E92 M3 that went King Bearings. I also have a friend with an E46 M3 that went ACL bearings. Honestly, it shouldn't really matter which bearings you go with - they're a wear item regardless, and they need to be seen as a maintenance item. They should be replaced every 80-100k anyways in my opinion.

4) With the labor, just take the car to an independent shop (not dealer) to get the bearings done. They shouldn't charge you labor to swap the pan if you bring them a new (or new to you) one. With doing bearings, the pan has to come off and new hardware and the same old pan has to be put on anyways. So there's no difference in labor.