Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

[Fizzy Duck]

Hi there. Wondering if someone can support.

I've got an E88 135i - wrong forum I know, but this seems to be the largest community of installers for this gen of BMW.



Info:

I've coded mp3_cdc using Bimmercode.
I don't have a cd changer installed.


Upon installing everything and testing the system, IDRIVE shows the CD/DVD section as "unchecked"


The Mr12Volt unit does turn on, as I can connect to it over bluetooth.



I spent about 5 hours trying to troubleshoot this myself but could not for the life of me figure this out.


Has anyone got any ideas?

Thanks

[Fizzy Duck]

Okay so I got this working.


The issue was that the fibre loop wasn't connected to anything on the CD changer side, so the light was going to the CD changer but not returning.



This is key because some cars without a CD changer WILL have that fibre loop, and some won't.



If you have a fibre connection already coming out of the head unit, and you DON'T have a CD changer (i.e. my situation) then you either need to add the loop connection provided, or just disconnect the fibre loop and re pin it so the Mr12Volt unit connects to the head unit.


Some people mentioned that the HiFi amplifier is connected via that fibre cable, but I checked my amplifier in the boot and there isn't a fibre connection going into it. This may not be true if you have the Harman Kardon system.

[Thumbie]

Originally Posted by Adam M

Can I ask the process for connecting to the stock mic and if there are any reviews of it?

Just to add, I don't recognise any of the cons above, nor did I have a high pitch whine or a pop from my set up, nor any any jagged lines, I also managed to change the splash screen to BMW.

There is a video a few pages back but long story short you do have to run a cable up the a-pillar and over to the oem mic. Not super difficult, can go up either side. But you no longer need to run a cable to the idrive controller.

And those issues were atypical and not common with mr12volt units.

[alee0729]

Where is the best place to mount the Mr12Volt on an E92 where it is still easy to get to the unit to do firmware updates? Not keen on burying it behind the head unit, and want to avoid doing SD card extenders if possible.

[lilabee253]

Originally Posted by alee0729

Where is the best place to mount the Mr12Volt on an E92 where it is still easy to get to the unit to do firmware updates? Not keen on burying it behind the head unit, and want to avoid doing SD card extenders if possible.

Below the glove box compartment where the footwell is. You only have to remove the 2 screws for the footwell cover to access it in the future. It fits in nice and snug in the upper left corner of footwell, with mr12volt unit placed in vertically.

[Ali-E90]

Do any of you guys have the dip switch settings for the CCC model? Can’t seem to find it on their site or through my other searches.

Thank you!!

[dat1981]

Originally Posted by Thumbie

There is a CCC version and most (not all, but most) have had good experiences. The updated unit is available for both.

As far as shops, any reputable car audio shop can do it. It's really not too difficult, and most do it themselves in a few hours. hardest part is feeding wires without pinching the fiber optic line (very important). Coding the CD player is easy, just requires the right software.

Hello Thumbie,
Could you recommend the software to code CDC? Thank you.

[Thumbie]

Originally Posted by dat1981

Hello Thumbie,
Could you recommend the software to code CDC? Thank you.

I used OBDLink CX adapter it was $80 and I used Bimmercode app on my phone (I think you need to purchase the feature in-app). There are PC based softwares out there if you want to save a little money.

[chern]

Hello all!
Just installed CIC unit with OEM mic integration!
Super happy and highly recommend!

Some notes:
Watch cic install video 0.25 speed, otherwise nice and easy appreciate the video, follow it to a T and no issue.
2013 335is e92, no CD changer in trunk just the 1 cd in the dash, didn't have to code at all, grateful.
Quality is awesome, no complaints and super worth it. Finally using the iDrive and screen whereas it was useless prior.

Some hangups during install:
1) during mic integration install, the Upper panel they show it being brought down with a pick tool. I wasn't able to release it from below, I had to take down the sunvisor holder clip t20 screw then stick my hand up above the headliner and push the panel down with my fingers. Not a big deal in the end.
2) other hangup with the Install was with the big quadlock... had trouble fitting the cic unit back in. Finally fit the quadlock off to the right side just outside of the cage. Definately use a microfiber towel on top of the shifter to avoid scratching it.
Mr12volt box sits vertically top left above the passenger footwell, good fit and easy 2 bolt access.

Reverse camera: GreenYi 720p camera from aliexpress $20.
For power I connected the red wire from the camera to the short red wire on the long extention cable that runs from headunit all the way back to the trunk. I used a screw cap connector.
And up front the mr12volt has a red trigger wire for reverse as well, used a butt connector. Canbus triggers power, so don't need to connect to reverse taillight for power.

If you want to change boot up logo, hit them up via their Whatsapp customer service and they sent me a file with instructions to change the boot up logo. It's basically uploading a jpg using a USB stick. The old method of going into Advanced Settings with a numeric password to select a different boot up logo no longer applies with this latest P2000 box.

A couple quick questions:
1) Has anyone been able to run MHD app on the screen? Looking to monitor gauges to view Temps, pressures, and vehicle parameters.
2) looking to use steering wheel button to activate Siri. Need to code out cic steering wheel voice control. Is Bimmercode the only tool able to do that? I was going to buy ProTools and I'm wondering if that can also handle this job

Thank you all!

[WayneK]

Answered my own question. The coding needs to be done in stock radio/headunit configuration which many people might already know but was news to me. Full version Bimmercode software needs to be purchased to actually do the coding but at least the various modules/ecus can be read with proper OBD2 adapter to verify it works first.

After completing the coding my P2000 unit works well. It definitely takes some getting used to using the idrive dial to navigate after using touchscreen carplay for so many years. But the audio quality is great and integration is really nice. Now waiting for my front/rear cameras to arrive.

One hint that worked well for me and I didn’t see it mentioned anywhere… the plastic “cage” that many reference here is is a major barrier to simple radio re-installation due to the huge quad lock adapter harness. However its only a handful of additional screws and two 8mm bolts to remove completely once the radio and hvac unit are out. Once the cage is removed the top rearmost corner can be easily notched (hack saw, Dremel, etc) to create an easy access spot for the quad-lock connector. Pushing everything through this notch made radio re-installation a painless process.
___________________________________________

I installed the CIC p2000 in my e93 in order to make sure that I needed to code out the cd changer which its clear now I do (I read all pages of this thread). I bought one of the recommended Bimmercode OBD2 adapters (veepeak ble+). First time using Bimmercode… I can talk and see settings for most of the modules except of course it says "Headunit ECU not supported". Any idea if this is because I need to first remove the p2000, or my obd2 adapter isn’t fully compatible, or if I need to buy the full version of Bimmercode first just to see/edit the one module I need? Thanks!

[WayneK]

Originally Posted by chern

Thank you all!

I copied this from elsewhere in the thread... starting point for DSP settings that I'm planning to try (finishing my install now):

General --> volume 30 --> 32.

Low DSP settings:

31HZ: +5
63hz +2
80Hz +1
160hz +4
375hz +0

Yes for steering wheel button to operate Siri only I read you have to code it... With Bimmercode:

Headunit -> Expert Mode -> 3000 HMI
Find SVS option and change it to nicht active
CODE -> START CODING

[BoostMW]

Don’t know if anyone else having this issue recently or
If it came with iOS update but now using Siri disconnects CarPlay. Was working just fine, now if I use say hey siri or use it in Spotify to search it disconnects

[SVP]

Hi all,

This post is just some feedback of my installation and coding process. I think my experience could help others out as well.

- The car is a BMW E61, 2009 with CIC.
- The car had NO CD Changer fitted, only 1CD in the Dash. Hence, I did not use the MOST loop connector during the installation process, but I did need to do some coding, as otherwise, it would not work (see more info below).
- The installation took me 4 hours (I wired the MR12 volt unit to the CIC unit and the OEM microphone, I did not install/wire any rear-view camera). I used the majority of the time to figure out how all the trim pieces needed to be removed (especially to access the OEM microphone, as there were not many resources available for my specific type of car).
- For the wiring to the OEM microphone, I followed this video which has a cleaner installation procedure (in my opinion).

- From the factory, the wiring harness (quadlock) was taped together with the other cables that go to the CIC unit. I needed to cut the tape such that I had more freedom to route the wires behind the CIC unit, especially because there was very little space with the additional quadlock connecter block of the MR12volt unit. You need to be very careful with the optical cables such that you do not pinch them and make sure there are no kinks in the cables.
- I installed the mr12volt unit below the glovebox. The cover that I needed to remove for the installation also already had a (factory made) hole in it, so I used that to route the USB cable through for easy access to USB connection when needed. But the USB cable cannot be seen unless your head is where your feet should be ...
- I coded my car using NCS expert and with this cable
- This video was a great help for me to easily code the car, start at 26:11 :

- I had no CD changer installed in my car. When reading the CIC module with NCS expert, the CDMM_CHANGER_3 value was "kein cdc". I just changed it to mp3_cdc, and it worked (as explained in video above). Literally a few minutes of work... I did not need to write VO/FA things or other things that people were doing...
- I performed the coding AFTER installation using NCS expert (which apparently cannot be done (afterwards) when using bimmercode, so in hindsight I would recommend doing it before - just in case...)
- I disconnected the battery of the car during the installation process.

User feedback:
- Sound quality is really nice
- Module responds fast, it also boots up fast enough.
- People who call me when I'm in the car say they have an "echo" (i.e. they hear themselves). --> Do other people also have this issue, if so, could you solve it? Nevermind, apparently a solution is already available (although I did not yet try it out) : https://www.youtube.com/shorts/CfqzovkA3ic .
- I use Android Auto. I did not disable the steering wheel voice button, as I can just say "ok/hey google" and the module starts picking up voice. There is also a button in android auto that you can select with the Idrive controller which then starts listening to your command. So for me it was not worth it to do the coding to disable the steering wheel voice button, as it can now still be used in the OEM idrive system...

[dat1981]

Originally Posted by Thumbie

I used OBDLink CX adapter it was $80 and I used Bimmercode app on my phone (I think you need to purchase the feature in-app). There are PC based softwares out there if you want to save a little money.

Thanks!
I code CDC with Bimmercode and it works well.

[pavjayt]

Originally Posted by SVP

Hi all,

This post is just some feedback of my installation and coding process. I think my experience could help others out as well.

- The car is a BMW E61, 2009 with CIC.
- The car had NO CD Changer fitted, only 1CD in the Dash. Hence, I did not use the MOST loop connector during the installation process, but I did need to do some coding, as otherwise, it would not work (see more info below).
- The installation took me 4 hours (I wired the MR12 volt unit to the CIC unit and the OEM microphone, I did not install/wire any rear-view camera). I used the majority of the time to figure out how all the trim pieces needed to be removed (especially to access the OEM microphone, as there were not many resources available for my specific type of car).
- For the wiring to the OEM microphone, I followed this video which has a cleaner installation procedure (in my opinion).

- From the factory, the wiring harness (quadlock) was taped together with the other cables that go to the CIC unit. I needed to cut the tape such that I had more freedom to route the wires behind the CIC unit, especially because there was very little space with the additional quadlock connecter block of the MR12volt unit. You need to be very careful with the optical cables such that you do not pinch them and make sure there are no kinks in the cables.
- I installed the mr12volt unit below the glovebox. The cover that I needed to remove for the installation also already had a (factory made) hole in it, so I used that to route the USB cable through for easy access to USB connection when needed. But the USB cable cannot be seen unless your head is where your feet should be ...
- I coded my car using NCS expert and with this cable
- This video was a great help for me to easily code the car, start at 26:11 :

- I had no CD changer installed in my car. When reading the CIC module with NCS expert, the CDMM_CHANGER_3 value was "kein cdc". I just changed it to mp3_cdc, and it worked (as explained in video above). Literally a few minutes of work... I did not need to write VO/FA things or other things that people were doing...
- I performed the coding AFTER installation using NCS expert (which apparently cannot be done (afterwards) when using bimmercode, so in hindsight I would recommend doing it before - just in case...)
- I disconnected the battery of the car during the installation process.

User feedback:
- Sound quality is really nice
- Module responds fast, it also boots up fast enough.
- People who call me when I'm in the car say they have an "echo" (i.e. they hear themselves). --> Do other people also have this issue, if so, could you solve it? Nevermind, apparently a solution is already available (although I did not yet try it out) : https://www.youtube.com/shorts/CfqzovkA3ic .
- I use Android Auto. I did not disable the steering wheel voice button, as I can just say "ok/hey google" and the module starts picking up voice. There is also a button in android auto that you can select with the Idrive controller which then starts listening to your command. So for me it was not worth it to do the coding to disable the steering wheel voice button, as it can now still be used in the OEM idrive system...

Thank you SVP for your feedback. I have been following this thread for a while now to get an idea on how well this is working and its cons. But most of the posts are for 3 series. Glad to come accross yours for E61 which is what I am planning to get this for.
For a breif history, mine is 09 E61 US spec with all the options available except for ACC2. It came with CCC professional with Idrive controller. I retroffited it with CIC, combox.

Few questions for you if you have vouple of minutes to spare
1) Did you use the MOST connector that is in the glove box (intended for most loop services and updates) with P2000?
2) I read in many posts that they have somekind of popping sounds from speakers when you turn on the car and also have to switch it from radio back to CD input to get the sound out of this unit when you turn on the car. Do you have any of these issues?
3) I see that you only have to code the CDMM_CHANGER_3 value to mp3_cdc in the CIC file with out doing any FA writes, hope that is really that easy.

Any feedback is much appreciated.
thanks

[SVP]

Originally Posted by pavjayt

Thank you SVP for your feedback. I have been following this thread for a while now to get an idea on how well this is working and its cons. But most of the posts are for 3 series. Glad to come accross yours for E61 which is what I am planning to get this for.
For a breif history, mine is 09 E61 US spec with all the options available except for ACC2. It came with CCC professional with Idrive controller. I retroffited it with CIC, combox.

Few questions for you if you have vouple of minutes to spare
1) Did you use the MOST connector that is in the glove box (intended for most loop services and updates) with P2000?
2) I read in many posts that they have somekind of popping sounds from speakers when you turn on the car and also have to switch it from radio back to CD input to get the sound out of this unit when you turn on the car. Do you have any of these issues?
3) I see that you only have to code the CDMM_CHANGER_3 value to mp3_cdc in the CIC file with out doing any FA writes, hope that is really that easy.

Any feedback is much appreciated.
thanks

Sure, you're welcome.

1) No, I did not use the MOST connector in the glovebox. I connected the MOST port of the P2000 with the supplied fiber optic cables to the wiring behind the CIC unit, exactly as shown in the video of MR12Volt:

But since my car had no CD changer, I did not use the MOST loop connector which should be added when you have a CD changer, even when it's in the glovebox (I think).
Maybe you can indeed connect the P2000 to the MOST connectors in the glovebox, but you would still need to get to the wiring behind the CIC unit to provide the power to the MR12volt unit, and for the LVDS cable.


2) I do not have any issues concerning popping sounds. If I turn the car off in CD input (MR12volt), the next time I turn the car on the MR12volt unit will automatically start and is already in the process of connecting to my phone. Once connected, it starts automatically playing Spotify music as well - so no need to switch back in order to get sound out of the unit, at least for me.
In some cases when I unlock the car in advance (e.g. when loading some things in the trunk), it's typically already fully connected and starts playing music as soon as I insert the key.


3) For me that was indeed the case. I only changed the CDMM_CHANGER_3 value. I've come across some YouTube videos that illustrate step-by-step how to do those FA writes and it does not seem to be overly complex, but of course easier if you don't need to do it .

Good luck installing the box in case you are planning to buy it. My experience so far is that it's definitely worth it.

Let me know if you have any further questions.
Cheers

[azatos612]

Originally Posted by SVP

Sure, you're welcome.

1) No, I did not use the MOST connector in the glovebox. I connected the MOST port of the P2000 with the supplied fiber optic cables to the wiring behind the CIC unit, exactly as shown in the video of MR12Volt:

But since my car had no CD changer, I did not use the MOST loop connector which should be added when you have a CD changer, even when it's in the glovebox (I think).
Maybe you can indeed connect the P2000 to the MOST connectors in the glovebox, but you would still need to get to the wiring behind the CIC unit to provide the power to the MR12volt unit, and for the LVDS cable.


2) I do not have any issues concerning popping sounds. If I turn the car off in CD input (MR12volt), the next time I turn the car on the MR12volt unit will automatically start and is already in the process of connecting to my phone. Once connected, it starts automatically playing Spotify music as well - so no need to switch back in order to get sound out of the unit, at least for me.
In some cases when I unlock the car in advance (e.g. when loading some things in the trunk), it's typically already fully connected and starts playing music as soon as I insert the key.


3) For me that was indeed the case. I only changed the CDMM_CHANGER_3 value. I've come across some YouTube videos that illustrate step-by-step how to do those FA writes and it does not seem to be overly complex, but of course easier if you don't need to do it .

Good luck installing the box in case you are planning to buy it. My experience so far is that it's definitely worth it.

Let me know if you have any further questions.
Cheers

Do you have noise at maximum volume when music is turned off? https://www.youtube.com/shorts/74ciIHpFb48

[pavjayt]

Originally Posted by SVP

Sure, you're welcome.

1) No, I did not use the MOST connector in the glovebox. I connected the MOST port of the P2000 with the supplied fiber optic cables to the wiring behind the CIC unit, exactly as shown in the video of MR12Volt:

But since my car had no CD changer, I did not use the MOST loop connector which should be added when you have a CD changer, even when it's in the glovebox (I think).
Maybe you can indeed connect the P2000 to the MOST connectors in the glovebox, but you would still need to get to the wiring behind the CIC unit to provide the power to the MR12volt unit, and for the LVDS cable.


2) I do not have any issues concerning popping sounds. If I turn the car off in CD input (MR12volt), the next time I turn the car on the MR12volt unit will automatically start and is already in the process of connecting to my phone. Once connected, it starts automatically playing Spotify music as well - so no need to switch back in order to get sound out of the unit, at least for me.
In some cases when I unlock the car in advance (e.g. when loading some things in the trunk), it's typically already fully connected and starts playing music as soon as I insert the key.


3) For me that was indeed the case. I only changed the CDMM_CHANGER_3 value. I've come across some YouTube videos that illustrate step-by-step how to do those FA writes and it does not seem to be overly complex, but of course easier if you don't need to do it .

Good luck installing the box in case you are planning to buy it. My experience so far is that it's definitely worth it.

Let me know if you have any further questions.
Cheers

Thank you for your prompt response. Everything checks with this unit except for one thing that I am contemplating with, touchscreen, how useful and convenient is it using android auto/carplay without a touchscreen while interacting constantly with the idrive knob

[SVP]

Originally Posted by azatos612

Do you have noise at maximum volume when music is turned off? https://www.youtube.com/shorts/74ciIHpFb48

I did not yet go for max volume, but I did turn it up the volume quite high without noticing any noise (for sure not the level shown in your video).

[SVP]

Originally Posted by pavjayt

Thank you for your prompt response. Everything checks with this unit except for one thing that I am contemplating with, touchscreen, how useful and convenient is it using android auto/carplay without a touchscreen while interacting constantly with the idrive knob

That's true, especially if you're used to working with AA/carplay in other cars with touch screen. When I just installed it, I must admit I always had the urge to want to touch the screen instead of using the Idrive knob, because I was used to it when driving other cars. But this is now my daily driver, and I was completely used to it in less than a week. I think I select things almost as fast with the idrive knob as it would take me to touch the screen (naturally my hand rests near the idrive knob while driving, so I think its quite convenient actually). Also, I use the google assistant voice commands regularly (mainly for playing specific music or navigation), which avoids the need to use the idrive knob.