E93 M3 Random starting problem. (100% SOLVED)

[anselmw]

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

Mmm. I am telling you you need to diagnose the way i did! Do not trust dealer either! They will not spend time like you do! You should see the live terminal values when the car acting like this! You may think car act totally like dead but you may also get some electricity on some terminals during that time! Did Dealer gave you any information about terminals? Did you ask them any question about getting any electric on terminals?

Dealer is still going to fix under warranty otherwise I would do it myself. Full power at front terminals and at battery. just no power anywhere else.

The power cable, fuse box issue recall that the M3 is not included in, describes all the exact symptoms I have. I asked them to check this. I just have this feeling this is it because I have read other M3's have seen this happen as well. Power seems to come back when if the corrosion on the cable wears off by vibration. Will check with dealer tomorrow if they found anything.

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by anselmw

Dealer is still going to fix under warranty otherwise I would do it myself. Full power at front terminals and at battery. just no power anywhere else.

The power cable, fuse box issue recall that the M3 is not included in, describes all the exact symptoms I have. I asked them to check this. I just have this feeling this is it because I have read other M3's have seen this happen as well. Power seems to come back when if the corrosion on the cable wears off by vibration. Will check with dealer tomorrow if they found anything.

Mmm, it makes sense. I am glad you mentioned to them, otherwise it is hard for them to figure it out i guess! I am really curious about this problem. Keep us posted!

[anselmw]

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

Mmm, it makes sense. I am glad you mentioned to them, otherwise it is hard for them to figure it out i guess! I am really curious about this problem. Keep us posted!

I mentioned to them but in normal dealer fashion, they are still looking into it. I just wish when they were towing it that the problem was still there. These intermittent problems always make it harder for them to resolve.

[anselmw]

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

Mmm, it makes sense. I am glad you mentioned to them, otherwise it is hard for them to figure it out i guess! I am really curious about this problem. Keep us posted!

I believe the problem is finally resolved. Just picked up the car today and I got lucky in that when the car was dropped off it did not start. I had suspected it had to do with the 3 series recall(M3 is not included) on the fuse box and battery cable corrosion.

Turns out that is what they fixed and it was confirmed that they got the car to power up by shaking the fuse box. I got it covered under warranty but I think this will eventually happen to all M3's so not sure why BMW has not included M3's as part of this recall. Hopefully my additional claim will help them include M3's.

Here are the parts that were used in the repair
61-12-9-312-133
61-14-9-119-445

I believe the cable is now just the end piece vs the whole cable so parts and labor should be much cheaper if you are out of warranty.

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by anselmw

I believe the problem is finally resolved. Just picked up the car today and I got lucky in that when the car was dropped off it did not start. I had suspected it had to do with the 3 series recall(M3 is not included) on the fuse box and battery cable corrosion.

Turns out that is what they fixed and it was confirmed that they got the car to power up by shaking the fuse box. I got it covered under warranty but I think this will eventually happen to all M3's so not sure why BMW has not included M3's as part of this recall. Hopefully my additional claim will help them include M3's.

Here are the parts that were used in the repair
61-12-9-312-133
61-14-9-119-445

I believe the cable is now just the end piece vs the whole cable so parts and labor should be much cheaper if you are out of warranty.

I am so glad you posted this info. Fantastic job! Hope will help many people as well. Thank you!

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

So Should i wire the cables to starter and stick them out side of the intake and secure them with the plastic wire protection covers and whenever happens again i can check the current on the starter whenever push the start button. And i read somewhere that, the voltage should be 12V or more and BMW did a weird thing that whenever you push the start button it drops to 0 Volt and when engine starts goes back to 12V is that right? And if i wire extra cable, which cables i am going to extend? Big Red + cable which comes from Battery and Little black cable which comes from solenied ?

After realizing how you can read all the live values on DIS or ISTA, i am laughing my solution technique here It make sense but ridiculous to do all this!

[Savage_M3]

Originally Posted by anselmw

I believe the problem is finally resolved. Just picked up the car today and I got lucky in that when the car was dropped off it did not start. I had suspected it had to do with the 3 series recall(M3 is not included) on the fuse box and battery cable corrosion.

Turns out that is what they fixed and it was confirmed that they got the car to power up by shaking the fuse box. I got it covered under warranty but I think this will eventually happen to all M3's so not sure why BMW has not included M3's as part of this recall. Hopefully my additional claim will help them include M3's.

Here are the parts that were used in the repair
61-12-9-312-133
61-14-9-119-445

I believe the cable is now just the end piece vs the whole cable so parts and labor should be much cheaper if you are out of warranty.

Do you happen to have any more info on this 3-series recall? Is there a recall number I can look up or reference? I'd love to bounce this off my service adviser.

[anselmw]

Originally Posted by Savage_M3

Do you happen to have any more info on this 3-series recall? Is there a recall number I can look up or reference? I'd love to bounce this off my service adviser.

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs...3V044-6848.PDF

[jotrevza]

Sorry for the long post but, I could really use some help...

I have a starting related problem as well on my 2008 E92 M 6MT. Mine is COMPLETELY dead in the water! It won't start at all. I just got the car recently and it was running VERY well until it just died with no warning symptoms. It's clear I'm not getting any signal to the fuel pump now and the the NAV display confirms that. 'fuel pump malfunction', DSC malfunction, and a long and distinguished list of other symbols all over the instrument cluster. It's ugly.

Here's some of what I've found/done:

When checking fuses I found fuse # 16 blown behind the glove box. I've been told that this 10 amp fuse IS the DME fuse. That seems to be consistent with the overall problem if I have the right fuse??? The fuse has been replaced (several times) and keeps blowing each time I replace it, but only while attempting the start sequence with the button. It just cranks and cranks, but, won't fire off.

The battery is currently charged up and in good condition. The starter always cranks the engine over with authority. It behaves as though it's getting spark. It sounds like it actually wants to fire off, but won't. There were no warning signs with fuel delivery problems (starvation, missing, etc. under load) leading up to the instant failure, which, would have otherwise lead me to believe that the pump was starting to fail. I don't believe it is/was bad. I think that it's not getting the signal(s) it needs from the DME.

I'm generally not in favor of 'swaptronics' but, I don't have the diagnostic tools yet to pull BMW specific codes, and no wiring diagrams available. More importantly, I don't have the 'budget' to be dragging it to the dealer or import shop right now. I do have a cheap, generic scanner that told me all 8 cyl's were misfiring when I plugged it in. (using obd2 generic mode) I would expect to see that though if it's not getting any fuel. I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump control module. No help. I replaced the fuel pump as well. No help. I replaced the DME relay. No help there either...

At this point I could really use some help from someone who's knowledgeable about these cars. It does appear to me that we have a (potential) short to ground, either through the DME itself, or, possibly a power wire between the DME and fuel system operating off of fuse #16.

If anyone could help out with SOLID ideas/knowledge it would be appreciated!

Thanks, Tracy

[Titan_br]

Hi Sangria
I really need your help.
Mine is 2011 DCT version. The engine start but dies on next
I though it would be the Throttle Actuator and replaced them. But still the same problem. Replaced the battery. Still the same.
I believe it is terminal15 since all erros I get are triggered by it.
I can run the car all day long. But I stop in garage and after hours, next day in the morning, car got problems again. The first start no matter what you do it won't start. So I have to unplug and plug the battery. Then it starts normally.

[Titan_br]

I changed the relay but I still getting the problem.

I really want some help if you all guys can help me

<===========================>
0. Motor Control:
<--------------------------->
Engine / Motor:
- Falha: Activation EV1
- Code: 0027A6
- Falha: Oxygen sensor before the cat
- Code: 00271A

13. Systems:
<--------------------------->
Junction Box Passenger / Beifahrer:
- Falha: Short circuit to positive or open circuit - Compressor Valve
- Code: 00A6D0
- Falha: Central control timeout
- Code: 009C5E
<--------------------------->
Theft alarm / Diebstahl Warnanlage:
- Falha: Alarm: Power supply manipulation
- Code: 009D44

[Titan_br]

Well, I don't know what to do... if you can help me, please do it. I willing to pay for support.

[SaNGRia]

Hey Titan,

Here is the possible reasons :

Code : 0027A6

DME Fuel Injector Cylinder 1
or

Tank-ventilation Valve,bank 1
or
Injection Valve
or
Fuel Injector

Code : 00271A

Oxygen sensore before cat, bank 1 or bank 2
or
Vanos Control, intake 1
or
Interference from adjacent lines

Code : 00A6D0

JBE- Control Valve in A/C compressor

Code : 009C5E

Refrigerant Pressure Sensor

Code : 009D44

Alarm memory : Voltage-supply tampering

Let me know when you are available I will remote connect to your car to see what is going on!

[Lyubomir.Rangelov]

Hello guys,
I have the same problem with my car. Every day when I go to work in the morning there is no problem with start engine. After work (around 9-10 hours) it is the same. But when I use the car Saturday or Sunday and I stop and start more than 2-3 times the car won't start. I can hear only one sound like relay on left side (click-click). All lights are on the screen but nothing happened when I press the start button. After 1 hour as example it is working without any problem.
The car is with automatic transmission and I don't know if the problem might be the same with this clutch switch sensor.
I was in dealer in Sofia .. but the couldn't found anything. The car was there 10 days and nothing .... On the diagnostics there isn't any errors. Only the AUC sensor and Additional water pump.
Today I was in a service but they said me about this clutch sensor that in my car there isn't this part.
Stop light switch has been with the same function. It was changed in the past..with OEM part.
Can someone help me with advice? Where I can see the diagram on my car?
In realoem I can see this message -->

"For vehicles with
Automatic transmission
S205A=No
02 Module, clutch switch 1 61319231129 "

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by Lyubomir.Rangelov

Hello guys,
I have the same problem with my car. Every day when I go to work in the morning there is no problem with start engine. After work (around 9-10 hours) it is the same. But when I use the car Saturday or Sunday and I stop and start more than 2-3 times the car won't start. I can hear only one sound like relay on left side (click-click). All lights are on the screen but nothing happened when I press the start button. After 1 hour as example it is working without any problem.
The car is with automatic transmission and I don't know if the problem might be the same with this clutch switch sensor.
I was in dealer in Sofia .. but the couldn't found anything. The car was there 10 days and nothing .... On the diagnostics there isn't any errors. Only the AUC sensor and Additional water pump.
Today I was in a service but they said me about this clutch sensor that in my car there isn't this part.
Stop light switch has been with the same function. It was changed in the past..with OEM part.
Can someone help me with advice? Where I can see the diagram on my car?
In realoem I can see this message -->

"For vehicles with
Automatic transmission
S205A=No
02 Module, clutch switch 1 61319231129 "

Sorry to hear that. The best thing is you need to get this :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-ISTA-D-...-/252168141994

and then go to CAS and check all the terminals especially Terminal 50 - 50E for the starter and other terminals to see is there any problem on the voltages.

As far as i know Auto Tranny has brake sensor . This sensor activates the starter and gives permission to the DME and CAS to start the car! Basically the CLutch\Brake sensors are On Off switch which completes the circuit!

Good Luck!

[SaNGRia]

Update : It has been 3 years by now and car is as new as the day it is produced in 2008 and had no issue whatsoever. Check the beast on IG : _theblackm3_ #Cheers

[JRV]

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

Update : I went to dealer and purchased the sensor. Went out, car didn't start right in front of the service I reach the sensor cables and shaked them, car start immediately. Came home replaced the sensor. Watching the status!

Sangria, sorry to bring back an old thread but which sensor is it? I am having this same issue...ticking noises in glove, drive it once a week, and battery is new-ish and registered. Alternator was tested and was showing good levels. If I drive it twice a day for 2 days, I have no issues. IBS cable was replaced under recall about maybe 2 years ago. I'm stumped.

Edit: re-read this, so clutch\brake sensor?

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by JRV

Sangria, sorry to bring back an old thread but which sensor is it? I am having this same issue...ticking noises in glove, drive it once a week, and battery is new-ish and registered. Alternator was tested and was showing good levels. If I drive it twice a day for 2 days, I have no issues. IBS cable was replaced under recall about maybe 2 years ago. I'm stumped.

Edit: re-read this, so clutch\brake sensor?

Hey there, Is yours MT? If so it is behind the clutch :

[JRV]

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

Hey there, Is yours MT? If so it is behind the clutch :

It is. Thanks

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by JRV

It is. Thanks

And so, did it work?

[JRV]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

And so, did it work?

I think my issue is the alternator. It's a bit different from your issue.

[JRV]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

And so, did it work?

Originally Posted by jvictormp

And so, did it work?

I don't want to hijack this thread but for the sake of accuracy and not giving out wrong info, the alternator was replaced but the issue remains on my car. Next step is to bring in Friday to BMW to see if footwell module is the culprit. Apparently BMW extended this warranty.