New OE front brakes + track pads swap

[strokemycocktus]

I'm replacing my front rotors and pads for new OE ones. I'm going to follow all replacement instructions from TIS, but I am not sure whether I should follow BMW instructions for bed in procedure. They say brake moderately for 200km. The Internet says slam the brakes 10 times to heat them up and get good pad transfer. Which one should I follow when I have both pads and rotors brand new? Do rotors need some specific "break in"?
Second question, the new Textar pads have some adhesive on the backplate. Is this going to be a pain to remove when I replace them with a set of DS 1.11 for a trackday? What about reinstallation?
I'll be also flushing my RBF 660 with Castrol SRF, do I add new fluid to the reservoir right after I have sucked out what was left of the old fluid? I suppose there will be some left and they will mix.

Thanks!

[roastbeef]

You'll have to flush the fluid.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by strokemycocktus

Second question, the new Textar pads have some adhesive on the backplate. Is this going to be a pain to remove when I replace them with a set of DS 1.11 for a trackday? What about reinstallation?

Yes, it'll be a pain. You can use a clamp to force it out but it becomes easier with each pad change.

[gmx]

Becomes easier each pad change because it loses it's adhesiveness each time, just like OEM.

[strokemycocktus]

Thanks for all the answers!
What about the bed in? Gentle driving for 200 km and them slam them, or slam immediately? :

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by strokemycocktus

Thanks for all the answers!
What about the bed in? Gentle driving for 200 km and them slam them, or slam immediately? :

Slam immediately.

[Scharbag]

For bed in of OE pads, likely best not to cook them tooooooo badly. That said, you do want to heat them up. I have found the most important thing is to bed them in with 4-6 moderate stops (60KPH - 20KPH with moderate pressure) to warm them and then 2-3 hard stops (80KPH - 20KPH with heavy pressure) to get them hot. Do NOT come to a complete stop and do not drag the brakes. The next step is key: drive home and try to not really use the brakes much at all (only as needed) and then park your car and let the pads and rotors cool completely. Do not set E-Brake or leave your foot on the pedal when stopped.

Not sure how OE pads react, long time since I owned any, but any type of performance pad seems to really work well with this method. I am always surprised at how much better properly bedded pads perform.

Most of the info above comes from Hawk as those were the first performance pads I ever owned. The Hawk HPS is a great OE replacement that works well when cold and does not emit a lot of brake dust.

Cheers,

[strokemycocktus]

A question from a different perspective now, I have installed all the OE stuff but didn't have a chance to go and bed the brakes in yet. I am going on a trackday next sunday and I was wondering if it makes any sense to bed in the OE pads now and then do the same with track pads after a week or so? Can I bed in track pads on brand new rotors that don't have any pad transfer yet?

[jritt@essex]

Here's another relevant video for what you're doing:

A question from a different perspective now, I have installed all the OE stuff but didn't have a chance to go and bed the brakes in yet. I am going on a trackday next sunday and I was wondering if it makes any sense to bed in the OE pads now and then do the same with track pads after a week or so? Can I bed in track pads on brand new rotors that don't have any pad transfer yet?

If you haven't yet bed-in the OEM stuff, then don't bother with the street pads. If the discs are fresh, yes, just bed-in the Ferodo race pads on them. That will give you a clean slate for this first track day on the new discs.

After your event is over, leave the track pads in and drive home on them. Maybe drive them around for a week or two (depending on how much you drive the car), and the track pads will scrub off the track pad material that's on them. Then you'll have a clean slate to start with for the street pads.

Again, check out the above video...it should help you manage your street and track pads.

Also, here's our "Essex Track and Racing Brake Pad Owner's Guide". It should demystify numerous topics and help you get the most from your pads.

Good luck, and let us know if we can help.

[strokemycocktus]

Thank you for all the advice, I think I am starting to understand how brakes work haha!
I have watched the videos you linked, but seems I have missed some information there - I'll give it another go
I am waiting for the solid caliper guide bushings to arrive and I'll go ahead and install the track pads along with them

[strokemycocktus]

Here's how the rotors look after bedding in the ferodo ds 1.11. Should be good, right?
I did around 8 hard stops from 100 kmh to about 10-20kmh. The pads started fading a bit for two last stops and that's when I stopped. Then took a 15km highway trip back home and cooled the brakes.

The brakes feel funny, much more pedal travel before they bite and it feels a bit spongy. But it seems normal for track pads as I have read on the forum. The system was bled 2 weeks ago and I haven't opened the bleeder, so there shouldn't be any air.

But when they bite, the car stops like mad

[strokemycocktus]

Ok I'm after the track day. The pads performed well, they didn't fade and I had consistent stopping power even after a 30 min session with a cooldown lap in the middle.
But, the PADS ARE COMPLETELY GONE after one event
I didn't take them out yet, but it looks like the left side has a few milimeters left, but the right side is just bare metal scratching my new disc. I also don't get it how the outer pads could have worn before the inner did (I didn't get the notice on CBS which means the sensor didn't touch the disc yet).
Also, the rotors look like this (pic below).
What should I do now? I think I need put my street pads to not brake with bare metal and demolish that right rotor. What will happen with the deposits from track pads then?

Also another question, why did I go again through a set of brand new track pads in one day? I mean it was hot today and I did brake very hard, but come on, it can't be that bad right?

[strokemycocktus]

Here's what is left from the pads. 50 laps (including in-laps and cooldown) on a 4km circuit.
Calipers seemed fine so I doubt it was a seize issue.

[Bartledoo]

Yowzer!! My PFC08's lasted several dry track days. They actually still have a little meat left, but the heat buildup was way too bad so I swapped them. I was consistently out-breaking my original instructor in his very modded 996 turbo last week even with the pad fade though so I'd say I brake hardish.

[roastbeef]

Are you running a sticky tire with unlimited sessions with mdm on? Mdm can kill front pads if you're overdriving the car.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by strokemycocktus

Here's what is left from the pads. 50 laps (including in-laps and cooldown) on a 4km circuit.
Calipers seemed fine so I doubt it was a seize issue.

Jeez, do NOT run pads down that far. You'll destroy the calipers and rotors, as you found out.

Didn't you notice a huge drop in performance as the day went on? Were you checking pad thickness after each session?

[strokemycocktus]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Are you running a sticky tire with unlimited sessions with mdm on? Mdm can kill front pads if you're overdriving the car.

PS4S, 15 min sessions each hour, later in the afternoon 30 min sessions with cooldown after 15 min. Yes MDM on, I know it is hard on front brakes, but I need the car for daily driving and I prefer to change the pads more often than to have to weld in a quarter panel after a track event xD

Originally Posted by dparm

Jeez, do NOT run pads down that far. You'll destroy the calipers and rotors, as you found out.

Didn't you notice a huge drop in performance as the day went on? Were you checking pad thickness after each session?

I would never run them that far on purpose. I thought I'd get a warning from the computer when they would start going out, but as it turned out the sensor was out first...it may be strange but the braking felt solid to the last lap. And knowing these pads are supposed to be ultra durable, I wasn't worried.

Definitely a lesson to look at the pads after each session rather than trust in the car's systems.

[dparm]

Did you inspect the seals & boots on the calipers?

[strokemycocktus]

Originally Posted by dparm

Did you inspect the seals & boots on the calipers?

I took a look at the boots and they had some small cracks, but nothing was leaking.
Is replacing the boot and the seal easy on these calipers?

[tdott]

Yikes, do you have any video of your laps? How much was MDM intervening?

I have like 4 track days on my track pads and they still have some life in them but I drive with DSC off for most sessions.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by strokemycocktus

I took a look at the boots and they had some small cracks, but nothing was leaking.
Is replacing the boot and the seal easy on these calipers?

I think I'd replace them for peace-of-mind. It's cheap and doesn't take too long once you get the caliper off.

[M3ANMACHINE]

Holy hell, one track day?! Are you dragging brakes into turns or what?
Never seen anything like that before