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      03-13-2018, 03:58 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by derbo View Post
Thanks for the input! I was reading the BMS MI40 installation PDF (for research) and noticed this page.



Is your setup at 8 clicks for the street?
No problem. Yes, it's at 8 clicks for the street...for me personally, that had the best feeling for street comfort and spirited driving.
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      03-13-2018, 04:12 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by dj_dub View Post
No problem. Yes, it's at 8 clicks for the street...for me personally, that had the best feeling for street comfort and spirited driving.

Perfect! I figured I would most likely be in a similar dampening setup as you.

One thing I was thinking about as well, was the rear adjustment process. I found someone who used furniture hole covers and the HPA rear adjuster extenders.. It is actually very effective and looks clean to me!

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      03-13-2018, 04:38 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by derbo View Post
Perfect! I figured I would most likely be in a similar dampening setup as you.

One thing I was thinking about as well, was the rear adjustment process. I found someone who used furniture hole covers and the HPA rear adjuster extenders.. It is actually very effective and looks clean to me!

Nice dude! ...I did something similar, minus the rear adjuster extenders. I feel you can't really feel each click well with those. Plus there's plenty of room once you pop the cap off to make adjustments. I spent $10 total for the plastic caps and spray paint.

IMG_8856 by dj_dub, on Flickr

IMG_4463 by dj_dub, on Flickr

IMG_4469 by dj_dub, on Flickr

IMG_4467 by dj_dub, on Flickr
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      03-13-2018, 05:06 PM   #70
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dj_dub That looks way better! It also will save myself $200 for those HPA shop extenders!

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      03-13-2018, 09:56 PM   #71
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Yes, the drives around Skyline highway 35 are awesome at 7 am in the morning! Good thing you know a guy! In your situation, I definitely see the benefit of moving in smaller steps to view progression as a driver instead of vehicle capability. I've "been there, done that" with my old E46 ZHP in regards to progression and I don't want to overhaul my suspension more than once. Spring changes are fine so getting the right dampeners the first time would be ideal. Realistically, I probably will be happy with either the B16 or the R&T. The decision really comes down to two questions: Is retaining EDC worth extra roughly $700? Is the B16 compliant on the street like Ohlins? Hopefully, someone buys the B16 locally and I can have a ride in it. I'm on the same path, that I want the ability to adjust my dampening myself but the B16 dynamic adjustment with the ZCP might be more than enough for an average joe like myself in Advanced HPDE groups.

Oh, yea! FWIW DreamTime, EDC can be unplugged and coded out without the ugly aftermarket modules sitting around.
Can i just code out EDC? Awesome! I originally thought that would be an option, but I was told somewhere along the line that it wasn't easily done. If that is an option though, it is definitely way better than a box sitting in my car tricking the system. I'll need to find out more about this... thanks!
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      03-13-2018, 10:04 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by DreamTime View Post
Can i just code out EDC? Awesome! I originally thought that would be an option, but I was told somewhere along the line that it wasn't easily done. If that is an option though, it is definitely way better than a box sitting in my car tricking the system. I'll need to find out more about this... thanks!
Indeed! That's what I plan to do. If a laptop + NCSexpert is not part of your toolset, you can either learn it or get someone that does coding to help you.


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## Code out edc
1) Disconnect EDC module. It's located on the passenger side rear quarter panel, accessible through the trunk. It's the module with 2 connectors (white and blue). Can't miss it.
2) Remove option $233 from Vehicle Order in CAS using FA_write; then change ECU and FA_write the NFRM.
3) In KOMBI set EDCK_ALIVE_ZAEHLER to nicht_aktiv and EDCK_ID_MONITOR to nicht_aktiv.
4) If you have the first gen idrive (08) in CAPPL set EDC to nicht_aktiv. / if you have the later idrive in CIC set EDC_CIC to nicht_aktiv

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1141087
Post by Kevin (Kaiv)
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      03-13-2018, 10:31 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo View Post
Indeed! That's what I plan to do. If a laptop + NCSexpert is not part of your toolset, you can either learn it or get someone that does coding to help you.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1141087
Post by Kevin (Kaiv)
This. ...is literally everything I would need to know. Great advice, thanks man. I'm a fan of buying tools that are useful over and over again for many applications vs something that is a single use type thing. I'm going to check out that software, thanks! I will want to talk with my friends who code their BMWs and Porsches before I try anything on my own. I'm just a little intimidated by this, but I am always willing to learn something new.
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      03-14-2018, 02:35 AM   #74
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This is what I get for not logging into m3post for a while...

I also have an E90M... Slicktop... in Alpine White... in the South Bay Area... and my name is also Derek!! Also have the same shift knob, haha.

Welcome, sweet car. Maybe I'll see you out there sometime soon!

P.S. May I ask how much the rod bearings ran you at P-Tech? I have a warranty but when that runs out (have a lot of time still, but it's a keeper) I plan to do this.
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      03-14-2018, 08:39 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj_dub View Post
Nice dude! ...I did something similar, minus the rear adjuster extenders. I feel you can't really feel each click well with those. Plus there's plenty of room once you pop the cap off to make adjustments. I spent $10 total for the plastic caps and spray paint.


IMG_4463 by dj_dub, on Flickr
Do you happen to remember where you got the caps? This is perfect
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      03-14-2018, 10:37 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -BEASTMW- View Post
This is what I get for not logging into m3post for a while...

I also have an E90M... Slicktop... in Alpine White... in the South Bay Area... and my name is also Derek!! Also have the same shift knob, haha.

Welcome, sweet car. Maybe I'll see you out there sometime soon!

P.S. May I ask how much the rod bearings ran you at P-Tech? I have a warranty but when that runs out (have a lot of time still, but it's a keeper) I plan to do this.
There can only be one Derek in the Bay Area! We must duel to the death for the rightful owner of Derek of the Bay!

Kidding aside, awesome man!! I'll eventually pop up at a meet sometime (maybe) but definitely will expect to see me at an HPDE.
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      03-18-2018, 11:42 PM   #77
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##Update
Ideally, I would love to install the European bumper but since my bumper is not broken and I can't justify buying one without damage, I purchased IND painted reflectors from one of the E9x folks! Thanks, Jorge Jr!

This is the best solution even though I think the painted reflector looks like a mole since it is not flushed with the bumper. The next best solution is shaved bumpers, then finally euro bumper. This could be a very slippery slope.




##Wheels
As part of the discovery process on what is causing the issue, I went back to OE wheels as a baseline. A quick test drive shows that the OE wheels are fine and I have no vibrations between 60-120mph. It sure looks awkward with a full 90mm extended stud with no spacers.



Road force measurements on the wheels show a range from 45lbs to 60lbs! My buddy is going to re-balance them with true road force balancing:
1. remove all weights
2. road force measure the low spot and high spot on wheels/tire
3. match mount the spots of the wheel and rim by rotating the tire position on the rim.
4. re-balance.

Hopefully, this will fix the issue and the issue is the tires not the brand new GT4s. If it is the tires, I can contact TireRack to get them replaced.
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      03-19-2018, 07:59 AM   #78
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That's an insane level of roadforce. Michelin tires are the best in the industry for manufacturing process control (i.e. mass, stiffness, and geometric uniformity). The set of PS4S tires I just put on my M5 all balanced out with no more than 1 ounce of weight and with roadforce measurements between 0-3 lbs.

Find an experienced user of a Hunter roadforce machine, and then use the feature on the machine to measure wheel runout with the tire OFF the wheel. It's actually a pretty cool feature as it will plot the runout measurement all around the circumference of the rim.

I hate to say it, but with roadforce levels like those with PS4S, odds are very high the wheels have issues.
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      03-19-2018, 09:52 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo View Post
##Update
Ideally, I would love to install the European bumper but since my bumper is not broken and I can't justify buying one without damage, I purchased IND painted reflectors from one of the E9x folks! Thanks, Jorge Jr!

This is the best solution even though I think the painted reflector looks like a mole since it is not flushed with the bumper. The next best solution is shaved bumpers, then finally euro bumper. This could be a very slippery slope.

I just pulled the painted reflectors that came on my car and put a set of stock ones back on. The reflectors look terrible, but at least they don't look... like painted reflectors.

I'll do a Euro bumper if this one gets replaced, of course. I did that on my E46.
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      03-19-2018, 02:54 PM   #80
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That's an insane level of roadforce. Michelin tires are the best in the industry for manufacturing process control (i.e. mass, stiffness, and geometric uniformity). The set of PS4S tires I just put on my M5 all balanced out with no more than 1 ounce of weight and with roadforce measurements between 0-3 lbs.

Find an experienced user of a Hunter roadforce machine, and then use the feature on the machine to measure wheel runout with the tire OFF the wheel. It's actually a pretty cool feature as it will plot the runout measurement all around the circumference of the rim.

I hate to say it, but with road force levels like those with PS4S, odds are very high the wheels have issues.
I'm afraid that may be the case. I'm waiting for data for the rim runout to see what to do. I would be very bummed if it is indeed the BBS GT4s as they were brand new (never mounted) and purchased 2nd hand from AlekShop. My hope is that is is a bad batch of PS4S that I got. Awaiting results from the tire guy.


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Originally Posted by nrubenstein View Post
I just pulled the painted reflectors that came on my car and put a set of stock ones back on. The reflectors look terrible, but at least they don't look... like painted reflectors.

I'll do a Euro bumper if this one gets replaced, of course. I did that on my E46.
Yea.. I'm not happy with the painted reflector on a light colored cars. I think the red center caps on the BBS just made the amber reflectors look more apparent to my eyes and bothered me. On the factory grey rims, I felt the amber was fine.
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      03-19-2018, 03:57 PM   #81
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Do rim guys buy second hand rims without actually checking them? I would think/hope you got a bad batch of rubber.
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      03-19-2018, 04:20 PM   #82
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Do rim guys buy second hand rims without actually checking them? I would think/hope you got a bad batch of rubber.
We will find out soon enough.
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      03-19-2018, 08:11 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo View Post
Yea.. I'm not happy with the painted reflector on a light colored cars. I think the red center caps on the BBS just made the amber reflectors look more apparent to my eyes and bothered me. On the factory grey rims, I felt the amber was fine.
Give the smoked or clear reflectors a try, I couldn't find a set of painted ones that matched my space gray. I got both the smoked and the clear and think the smoked look best

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      03-19-2018, 08:29 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverstoneorspacegray View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo View Post
Yea.. I'm not happy with the painted reflector on a light colored cars. I think the red center caps on the BBS just made the amber reflectors look more apparent to my eyes and bothered me. On the factory grey rims, I felt the amber was fine.
Give the smoked or clear reflectors a try, I couldn't find a set of painted ones that matched my space gray. I got both the smoked and the clear and think the smoked look best

I'm not buying any more reflectors! Haha. I'll live with this till I shave or do the euro bumper.
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      03-19-2018, 09:16 PM   #85
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It's funny that a cute three inch reflector has our heads spinning. Euro is the wayo to go o.
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      03-19-2018, 10:48 PM   #86
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It's funny that a cute three inch reflector has our heads spinning. Euro is the wayo to go o.
That fact that a $500 unpainted Euro bumper is a feasible solution to get rid of a stupid DOT regulation.



##Update

At least 3 of the tires have excessive road force. That is a bit of a relief as I can contact TireRack and get the tires warrantied.

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      03-21-2018, 11:16 PM   #87
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## Vibrations
After a full month of on and off diagnosis, we finally figured out what as wrong! I called TireRack and they suggested another tire shop take a look at it too. So I took it to my guy, Ron at Dependable Tire & Brake in San Rafael. He found the tires were not 100% seated in the groove of the rim and caused the wheel to have lateral runout. This is what caused any road force testing to fail miserably. After remounting the tire again with lots of lube, he was able to get great numbers for the road force. The high 18lb one went on the rear passenger.






After installing them, all vibrations were no longer present. Thank you to Ron!! I should've gone to Ron in the first place as I originally intended.

The M3 with it's partner in crime.




CSBM5 You were right that Michelin couldn't possibly have that kind of poor QA. I'm glad it was resolved by a proper experience tech.
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      03-23-2018, 03:11 PM   #88
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@derbo glad you got it sorted. I've got a new set of ps4s soon to be mounted on some apex wheels...will definitely keep an eye on this!
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