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      07-26-2016, 03:38 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerkiraios00 View Post
Any recommendation on a shop in ny that can do this? Plus my car has only 20k not tracked or anything? Still doesn't matter? Should be done no matter what?
There have been very few failures with that little mileage. Tracking does not seem directly related to it. It seems like a small percentage of cars will have this issue regardless due to tolerance stack up, so if you really want to be sure you should replace it.

I will be replacing mine this winter or during early spring and will post the DIY

If I was not willing to DIY I would take it to AutoCouture in NJ or Rogue Engineering in NY.
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      07-26-2016, 04:00 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
There have been very few failures with that little mileage. Tracking does not seem directly related to it. It seems like a small percentage of cars will have this issue regardless due to tolerance stack up, so if you really want to be sure you should replace it.

I will be replacing mine this winter or during early spring and will post the DIY

If I was not willing to DIY I would take it to AutoCouture in NJ or Rogue Engineering in NY.
Thanks for the reply.. I was gonna sc it that's why I'm a little worried.. Otherwise if I wasn't I'd just leave it.. I have a yr of cpo left
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      08-21-2016, 05:25 AM   #135
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Can someone please post the install guide for the BE ARP bolts? Both in stretch and in torque procedure
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      08-21-2016, 11:34 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
Can someone please post the install guide for the BE ARP bolts? Both in stretch and in torque procedure
They are not TTY. Just torque 'em to 50-ft/lbs.

http://wiki.rcollins.org/core/index....2000_rod_bolts
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      08-21-2016, 05:04 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javarithms View Post
They are not TTY. Just torque 'em to 50-ft/lbs.

http://wiki.rcollins.org/core/index....2000_rod_bolts
That's great, thank you for the information.

Should the threads be lubed with oil beforehand? Inevitably they will have some oil on them as the rod is covered in it
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      08-22-2016, 11:00 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerkiraios00 View Post
Any recommendation on a shop in ny that can do this? Plus my car has only 20k not tracked or anything? Still doesn't matter? Should be done no matter what?
AutoCouture in Fair Lawn, NJ is your best bet in the NYC area.
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      08-22-2016, 02:12 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
That's great, thank you for the information.

Should the threads be lubed with oil beforehand? Inevitably they will have some oil on them as the rod is covered in it
I don't know the definitive answer, but I would imagine ARP's are spec'd using their assembly lube, but I could be wrong...

Great question.
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      08-23-2016, 08:08 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
That's great, thank you for the information.

Should the threads be lubed with oil beforehand? Inevitably they will have some oil on them as the rod is covered in it
The threads and underside of the bolt head should be well coated with assembly lube. Torque values will be skewed if not.

Last edited by Doc Oc; 08-23-2016 at 02:21 PM..
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      08-23-2016, 12:41 PM   #141
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Thanks for the info

I'm thinking of getting a quick jack system for the DIY as I do not have a proper garage. It looks pretty interesting!

https://www.quickjack.com/
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      08-23-2016, 01:06 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoTalent View Post
-- Better Bearings for your BMW

Background:
  • BMW M5 (2005-2010), BMW M3 (2008-2013) can suffer early bearing failure due to inadequate rod bearing clearance.
  • Insufficient clearance means insufficient oil flow, excessive bearing surface heat, and premature wear.
  • These symptoms can lead to early bearing failure and a very expensive engine rebuild.
  • Problem can be addressed during engine rebuild, but it's expensive.
  • Some people switched to thinner oils -- as a stopgap measure.
  • Other stopgap measures include anti-friction teflon coated factory bearings, WPC anti-friction treated factory bearings, and custom bearings with same clearance as stock.
  • WPC treated bearings slightly increase clearance, but are a stopgap.
  • Newer factory bearings (2010.5 and later) are made from tin-aluminum, not lead-copper. Tin-aluminum bearings are 4-times harder on the surface than lead-copper bearings. This extra hardness shows signs of doing more damage to motors as there seems to be more bearing failures with 2010.5 and later vehicles. Tin-aluminum bearings also don't show the same signs of premature wear in Blackstone oil analysis due to lack of lead and copper.
  • We are the guys who came up with the WPC treated bearings and we realized a better solution was needed.
The Better Solution:
  • Designed to address and fix the rod bearing clearance issue.
  • Designed for use with factory 10W60 weight oils.
  • Increases oil flow.
  • Improves lubrication for "Start-Stop" vehicles over factory bearings.
  • Designed in consultation with leading industry experts from NASCAR, Indy Car, and former BMW M-Division engine designer.
  • Designed and manufactured by Clevite, factory BMW bearing supplier.
  • Traditional lead-copper bearing design; less wear on crankshaft journals, traceable with Blackstone oil analysis.
  • Each bearing is measured and size-binned. Allows for custom bearing selection when necessary.
Do you have any user or test BE Bearings that you can demonstrate the comparison against WPC, VAC, OEM etc. bearings?
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      08-23-2016, 05:01 PM   #143
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I've heard of people getting the rod bearings replaced for less than $1500, but I get quoted for $3000+ everytime.

Does anyone know where to get rod bearing replacement in the Bay Area for a reasonable price?

Thanks,
Dennis
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      08-23-2016, 05:03 PM   #144
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If I were in CA I'd write Kaiv, he can probably do this in an afternoon
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      08-23-2016, 06:24 PM   #145
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If you choose to do a list you can use my car. Just did my BE Bearing install, honestly my factory bearings look better than a lot that I've seen
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      08-23-2016, 07:33 PM   #146
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Quote:
Just did my BE Bearing install, honestly my factory bearings look better than a lot that I've seen
Ditto, I was happy to find my bearings had worn fairly nicely
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      08-23-2016, 07:45 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
If I were in CA I'd write Kaiv, he can probably do this in an afternoon
Unfortunately he's in San Diego and I'm in the SF bay area : /
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      08-23-2016, 09:26 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shredicus View Post
Ditto, I was happy to find my bearings had worn fairly nicely
Yeah mine had even less wear than that. car is 92k and supercharged.
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      08-23-2016, 09:38 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mit_Boost View Post
Do you have any user or test BE Bearings that you can demonstrate the comparison against WPC, VAC, OEM etc. bearings?
Yes. I suggest you email Bert and ask him.
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      08-23-2016, 10:11 PM   #150
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Take your time, keep it dust free and torque it just right. If assembly is the issue you'd best do it as good as they did at the factory.
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      08-23-2016, 10:50 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shredicus View Post
Ditto, I was happy to find my bearings had worn fairly nicely
Those bearings are not worn nicely, not by any stretch. I'll give you that they aren't the worst looking bearings I've seen, but are not good either.

One positive thing I can say is that they are evenly worn, that means that your rod big end and crank journal stack up is nice and even across all 8 rods/journals which means this engine should have even clearance in all rod bearings.

With the new BE bearings installed this engine will be very healthy for a long time!
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      08-24-2016, 09:09 AM   #152
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BMRLVR could you please post or link to a color picture of normal bearing wear?
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      08-24-2016, 09:49 AM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sephiroth View Post
BMRLVR could you please post or link to a color picture of normal bearing wear?
That's the thing....they shouldn't be wearing. If you take a look @ this thread http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1073979 after the VAC bearings were used for 30k+ miles on a s/c'ed engine....there is no wear.
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      08-24-2016, 10:01 AM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whats77inaname View Post
That's the thing....they shouldn't be wearing. If you take a look @ this thread http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1073979 after the VAC bearings were used for 30k+ miles on a s/c'ed engine....there is no wear.
I don't think that is normal. See attached is a B&W photo of normal wear according to Clevite's paper on bearing failure analysis. I just want a color version of this.
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