JL Audio HD 600/4 Question...

[MaverickNemesis]

So far I have a Audison BitOne, 2 Earthquake SWS-8's and a Kicker L7 Sub 12" I wanted to know if to start off would that combination be okay to put on the JL Amp? I know I would need another one of those amps for the 4 focal components but I wouldnt sure if the kicker would be too much to put with the 2 earthquakes. Thanks

[quality_sound]

You're wasting your time with the SWSs if you're running an L7. You want a midbass driver to complement the sub, not another pair of subs. You're also grossly underpowering the L7 with only 300 Watts.

[MaverickNemesis]

im not underpowering the L7 I had it on my previous car with a rockford t1000.1 but I dont see the necesity of having so much bass with the earthquakes... but do you suggest anything else?

[quality_sound]

Originally Posted by MaverickNemesis

im not underpowering the L7 I had it on my previous car with a rockford t1000.1 but I dont see the necesity of having so much bass with the earthquakes... but do you suggest anything else?

Then why run the L7 at all? And yes, you're underpowering it. It won't hurt anything, but you're not doing the amp or the over sound quality any favors by running to little power to a sub that is kind of a power hog.

You are correct, if you're running the SWSs as subs you don't need much, if anything from the L7. But you're also going to have a gap between where the SWSs drop off and the 4s in the doors pick up which is another good reason to run a real midbass instead of the SWSs.

If you want to keep the L7s and have something that plays the bottom ocatave with much more authority then I'd do something like a single 15.

What kind of music do you listen to and how loud do you listen to it? And be honest.

[MaverickNemesis]

Originally Posted by quality_sound

Then why run the L7 at all? And yes, you're underpowering it. It won't hurt anything, but you're not doing the amp or the over sound quality any favors by running to little power to a sub that is kind of a power hog.

You are correct, if you're running the SWSs as subs you don't need much, if anything from the L7. But you're also going to have a gap between where the SWSs drop off and the 4s in the doors pick up which is another good reason to run a real midbass instead of the SWSs.

If you want to keep the L7s and have something that plays the bottom ocatave with much more authority then I'd do something like a single 15.

What kind of music do you listen to and how loud do you listen to it? And be honest.

well i listen to trance/dance type songs mostly but anything but i like my music to have bass and sound crisp so what amp do u suggest? would running the jl audio hd 600/4 be good for the focal k2's in the interior? and what would you recommend for the 2 sws's and the L7?

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by MaverickNemesis

well i listen to trance/dance type songs mostly but anything but i like my music to have bass and sound crisp so what amp do u suggest? would running the jl audio hd 600/4 be good for the focal k2's in the interior? and what would you recommend for the 2 sws's and the L7?

You best bet is to run the SWS and the L7 off 2 different amps because I don't think you'll find one that will fit the needs of both of those drivers. I'm planning to run the SWS8 off the 5&6 channels of my Zapco DC650.6 which is rated for 500W at 2 ohms mono. You'll probably want at least 500W for the L7. The JL should be fine for th Focals. If you're not going to run the Focals active, you might be able to use channels 3&4 of the JL to run the SWS8s and then get another amp for the L7.

You're still left with the problem of how you're going to use the SWS and L7 together and make it sound good. Like others have said, the SWS is meant to be a subwoofer and not so much a midbass. So you'll have to get your Focals to play really low or you'll end up with a gap between those and the SWS. If you weren't going to use the L7 and just use the SWS as your subs, you probably have an easier time making it work.

[Technic]

What model of Focals are you getting?

If you are getting the bit one then use it to get the best mid bass that you can between the 4" and the SWS-8. You will have plenty of tuning capabilities there...

[MaverickNemesis]

I already own the BitOne, SWS-8's and the L7. The L7 was previously installed in my previous vehicle so thats why I still have it along with my Rockford T1000.1 amp.

So you would recommend running the 4 focal K2 powers with 1 JL Audio HD 600/4?
And the SWS's and L7 would need 2 seperate amps then? Im looking for clear/crisp sound with nice bass. so give me your input before I go buy this amp lol thanks

[MaverickNemesis]

also is that amp good enough for 4 focal k2 power?

[MaverickNemesis]

would you recommend the 2 or 4 ohm earthquakes?

[quality_sound]

I thought you already had the SWSs? Go with something that makes max power into whatever load they are.

[MaverickNemesis]

I do but they are 2 ohm both of them and Im just asking to see what or which is better. Im still confused on what amp to get. Im pretty sure the JL is fine for the 4 focals but for the sws's im not sure what to do since I also have the L7 and I dont want to have 3 amps...

[quality_sound]

Neither is "better" they're just different. They just let you tailor the load to whatever amp you want to use. ince you have 2 Ohm SWSs just use a 2-channel amp that makes the power you need at 2 Ohms per channel. You could to 4 Ohms mono on a bridged 2-channel amp as well but I wouldn't just because it won't get you anything extra and it'll work the amp harder.

How about a 600/4 and a 900/5 or two 900/5s? You'd have an unused sub channel with 2 900/5s (or have to level match them at least) but either way you have plenty of channels and more than enough power. I'm debating what amps to use but I want a TON of power.

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by quality_sound

Neither is "better" they're just different. They just let you tailor the load to whatever amp you want to use. ince you have 2 Ohm SWSs just use a 2-channel amp that makes the power you need at 2 Ohms per channel. You could to 4 Ohms mono on a bridged 2-channel amp as well but I wouldn't just because it won't get you anything extra and it'll work the amp harder.

How about a 600/4 and a 900/5 or two 900/5s? You'd have an unused sub channel with 2 900/5s (or have to level match them at least) but either way you have plenty of channels and more than enough power. I'm debating what amps to use but I want a TON of power.

I would have kept my TRU T03-4.150 and Hammer H-1 from my last car if I could have figured out how to make it fit nicely in this car A 600/4 and 750/1 would probably make a good combo but I'm not sure how many channels of amplification you're looking for. Going to run active front, rear and subs or just front and subs?

[quality_sound]

I'm going to do a semi-active front and passive rear with a trunk sub. Have to do it that way to have enough channels on the Bit One.

[MaverickNemesis]

Well I want to do front, rear, and trunk sub but I also want the sws's. How many amps can a bitone run anyways? I bought it about 6 months ago and have yet to even use it

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by MaverickNemesis

Well I want to do front, rear, and trunk sub but I also want the sws's. How many amps can a bitone run anyways? I bought it about 6 months ago and have yet to even use it

BitOne only has 8 channels of input/ouput. So if you do active 3-way front, you can do a sub and then you either have to use the mid only output for the rear, run the rear fullrange, or process the rear through another processor.

You could also do a semi-active front like quality sound said. I don't know exactly which way he's doing it but I would assume its going to be mid and tweeter in the door with the tweeter being passively crossed over, the mid is sent a high pass signal from the BitOne through whatever amp its hooked up to. Then the midbasses, rears, and sub under the seat would get their own dedicated output channels from the BitOne. You could also instead of sharing BitOne channels with the mid and tweeter, share between the mid and rear. The only thing bad about that is that you lose the ability to control the volume of the rear with respect to the mids unless you install an external volume control like an L-pad. I did this in my last car and it worked pretty good. I'd probably do it the last way since I've done it before and I'd rather have independent control of the mid and tweeter rather than having control of the rears from the BitOne. That and the sound coming from the rears would be mids only which is actually kind of nice for ambient sound. The rear passengers can just suck it because I don't really care about them.

[MaverickNemesis]

how about a JL Audio HD900/5 I guess for the focals and the L7 and a HD 600/4 for the 2 SWS's? Is there any other amp options possible? I wanted the 600/4 for the focals but Im not sure how to fit the L7 in giving it the sufficient power it needs

[MaverickNemesis]

would it be better to seal the earthquakes like the original oem ones or leave it open under the seats?

[quality_sound]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

BitOne only has 8 channels of input/ouput. So if you do active 3-way front, you can do a sub and then you either have to use the mid only output for the rear, run the rear fullrange, or process the rear through another processor.

You could also do a semi-active front like quality sound said. I don't know exactly which way he's doing it but I would assume its going to be mid and tweeter in the door with the tweeter being passively crossed over, the mid is sent a high pass signal from the BitOne through whatever amp its hooked up to. Then the midbasses, rears, and sub under the seat would get their own dedicated output channels from the BitOne. You could also instead of sharing BitOne channels with the mid and tweeter, share between the mid and rear. The only thing bad about that is that you lose the ability to control the volume of the rear with respect to the mids unless you install an external volume control like an L-pad. I did this in my last car and it worked pretty good. I'd probably do it the last way since I've done it before and I'd rather have independent control of the mid and tweeter rather than having control of the rears from the BitOne. That and the sound coming from the rears would be mids only which is actually kind of nice for ambient sound. The rear passengers can just suck it because I don't really care about them.

With only 8-channels and an avtive 3 way front with a sub he won't have ANY channels for the rear so they'd have to stay OEM, which is fine anyway.

Originally Posted by MaverickNemesis

how about a JL Audio HD900/5 I guess for the focals and the L7 and a HD 600/4 for the 2 SWS's? Is there any other amp options possible? I wanted the 600/4 for the focals but Im not sure how to fit the L7 in giving it the sufficient power it needs

The combinations are only limited by what YOU want. There's no rule or limit to how you run what. If it was me, a 900/5 on the mids, tweeters, and L7 with a bridged 600/4 on the SWSs is how I'd run it. This way you're sending 100 Watts to each mid and tweeter, 500 Watts to the sub and if you switch to 4 Ohm SWSs they'll get 300 Watts. You can't do 2 Ohm bridged on the 600/4.

Originally Posted by MaverickNemesis

would it be better to seal the earthquakes like the original oem ones or leave it open under the seats?

What do you mean?

[MaverickNemesis]

Originally Posted by quality_sound

With only 8-channels and an avtive 3 way front with a sub he won't have ANY channels for the rear so they'd have to stay OEM, which is fine anyway.



The combinations are only limited by what YOU want. There's no rule or limit to how you run what. If it was me, a 900/5 on the mids, tweeters, and L7 with a bridged 600/4 on the SWSs is how I'd run it. This way you're sending 100 Watts to each mid and tweeter, 500 Watts to the sub and if you switch to 4 Ohm SWSs they'll get 300 Watts. You can't do 2 Ohm bridged on the 600/4.



What do you mean?

Yea I just bought 4 ohm SWS's and sold the 2 ohm ones today. I was thinking exactly that getting the 900/5 since the peak power for the focal k2's are 100 anyways (50 rms) and 500 going to the L7 (even though it wont be the full 750 rms) and the 600/4 for the 2 sws's. Thanks a lot for the help hopefully the sound system will sound great.

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by quality_sound

With only 8-channels and an avtive 3 way front with a sub he won't have ANY channels for the rear so they'd have to stay OEM, which is fine anyway.

Yeah, that's why I was saying he'd have to use the same outputs from the BitOne as the mid. You'd end up running the amp channels at 2 ohms to power the mids and the rears. The rears would obviously be bandpassed just like the front mids if you did it that way.

You could even do it another way to keep it all active but it gets way complicated. You could use 2 channels of the BitOne to high pass the signal where you want to high pass the mid and the rears. Then you send that signal to a 4 channel amp with a built in x-over like a 600/4 or something smaller. Then you use the amp's x-over to low pass the signal for 2 channels on the mids effectively making the signal bandpass and then you use the other 2 amp channels with no filtering from the amp to let the rears play all the way up. Possible but way to complicated because you end up with controls at the BitOne and at the amp that you need to worry about.