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      05-04-2020, 11:36 AM   #155
wrk.eat.drive.rpt
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NAK91. Did you see any changes after those items? RB/radiator/cooler Fluids etc?
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      07-01-2020, 08:49 PM   #156
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just an update.
1. Changed rod bearing
2. changed oil level sensor (from a recommendation).

Still no reduction in oil temps if pushing the car.....

We will see what's next. Feel adamant about addressing this. It's possible oil filter housing and oil thermo inside of it is next... (not a cheap fix)
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      07-02-2020, 12:36 PM   #157
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Ive noticed if your under tray is damaged at all your oil temps will read higher. Replace any damage under tray sections or make sure it properly installed.

I still get it hotter than I like but I have noticed this has helped a bit.
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      07-04-2020, 06:18 PM   #158
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agree . the undertray was covered early and inspected. but thank you!
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      09-11-2020, 09:37 PM   #159
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Wanted to follow up on this thread so folks are aware.

1. Replaced the entire Oil filter housing and the oil thermostat inside of it in case it was stuck/clogged.

2. Installed a brand new do88 oil cooler.

Result: Absolutely NO change. Oil temps still get up to 250 or so when pushing on a hot day.... I've officially given up.

Before you ask to try X,Y,Z, look back at my posts on this thread. I've Tried EVERYTHING.
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      09-17-2020, 08:36 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk.eat.drive.rpt View Post
Wanted to follow up on this thread so folks are aware.

1. Replaced the entire Oil filter housing and the oil thermostat inside of it in case it was stuck/clogged.

2. Installed a brand new do88 oil cooler.

Result: Absolutely NO change. Oil temps still get up to 250 or so when pushing on a hot day.... I've officially given up.

Before you ask to try X,Y,Z, look back at my posts on this thread. I've Tried EVERYTHING.
If it makes you feel any better, my car (SC'd) will run up past the 210 mark as well.
Normally it's around the 210 mark or a needle width past the 210.
If it's hot on a track day I've seen it get a needle width past the 255 mark. (Oil changes right away after that though).
The picture was taken on the freeway a couple of weeks ago. I was driving home going thru the mountains in southern Oregon. It was 103f and smokey out.
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      09-19-2020, 11:13 AM   #161
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I totally love this forum.

I bought my M3 in april this year, in the deal a rod bearing change was included.

During the test drive in april the engine was at 100/212 (C/F). Outside temp was pretty cold, 12/54 (C/F).

After the delivery (and change of rod bearings) I'm unable to get it past 95/203 (C/F).

I've always thought this was very odd, why the engine temp was higher when it was colder outside, and now during the summer the engine temp is lower...

But since reading this thread it seems that the rod bearing change is the answer...
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      09-20-2020, 10:17 AM   #162
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My car is always past the 210 mark (pretty much the exact same temp as the pic above)even when below 50F outside. Is that a problem?
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      09-21-2020, 04:24 AM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOF-M3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvegasR View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
Describe what's going on here or this post is useless. For the ambient temp of 70's that is a high temp motor temp. I see my M in this temp range when it is hot out and I'm NOT MOVING IN TRAFFIC. See how I describe my driving scenario there? Lack of airflow on a hot day will produce this temp reading. Now your turn.....
Whatever, Scrippy.

Thanks everyone else. This is sort of where it ends up, no matter how I drive it (ie sitting in traffic on a hot day, or in the case of a photo, driving on a 20-30 mile trip on the highway, not pushing it, just cruising in 5th gear on a cool-ish morning for Atlanta). Hot day, in traffic, reads here. Cold day, on highway, good airflow, not driving aggressively, reads here.

The car used to remain stable around 210, as did my now departed E93 M3.

Oil is right between high/low via IDrive. Hmm. I'll add and see.
I'm curious, does everyone drive in 5th gear at 70mph? For me I'm always in 7th gear when driving at that type of speed, unless of course I am about to crush the hopes and dreams of an Audi, Mustang, Camaro insert vehicle name here... I just can't ever recall cruising at that speed and holding Rpm's at 4,000. Could this be why OP is running a bit hotter, as I have never seen my gauge go over 210 on normal day to day driving regardless of the duration of the drive . Also I imagine the M3 would just guzzle gas at that rpm.
Couldn't agree more? Unless you are overtaking or having fun what's the point of cruising in 5th??
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      09-22-2020, 04:04 PM   #164
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Things to check:

1. Make sure the engine oil cooler isn't covered up by bugs and dust.
2. Make sure water thermostat and engine oil thermostat are working properly.
3. Do NOT drive low rpm, heavy load i.e. floor the car at 3000 rpm holding in 7th gear. Better to rev out with light throttle in 3rd-4th gear than stay in low rpm with heavy load in a prolonged period.
4. Make sure engine oil you are using isn't too thick (varying viscosity/characteristic even under same SAE 10w60).
5. Change the coolant regularly. Use 70:30 water to coolant mix for better cooling.

If these don't fix the problem, you might have main/rod bearing issue. My E36 M3 euro engine went toast shortly after temps started reading 115C even on low loads. S65 on the other hand is designed to run at 115C when tracking.
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      10-28-2020, 09:50 PM   #165
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Not sure if some of you know but it is normal for engine temps to fluctuate quite a bit. Coolant is more constant than oil temp in my experience.
I had a Corvette that could display coolant temp, oil temp, and oil pressure.
On a very hot track day I've hit 280f but water temp was close to the middle of the guage.
I rode shotgun in an e46 m3( I know it's not s65 but still) and that one was getting close to similar temps around 270f.
I recall watching my engine oil temps creep up to 230 in the z06 sitting in traffic on hot summer days. The engine is actually going to be hotter in that scenario because there is no airflow. Normal cruising temps for the coolant and or oil would fluctuate between 180 and 210 ish.
I don't know why bmw left out a coolant temp guage, but I've never seen the coolant temp go higher than engine oil temperature AFTER warmup.
Most likely the 10w60 that most are running will easily handle the "higher" readings I've seen in your pics. My c5 z06 only used 5w30 and it is still driving fine today with almost 100k of abuse.

My m3 normally sits just at 210 or slightly above. It definitely is a slight bit higher sitting in traffic as well.
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      02-21-2021, 12:30 AM   #166
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reviving -

bought my 2nd e90 M: 140k miles, RBs done at 90k, csf radiator and new water pump and i noticed temps were constantly passing 210F, even at night, 58F outside, no traffic freeway cruising in 6th, all flat.

My previous E90 M a few year back, never did this as often but it did creep over 210 at times.

What i remember reading was that a torn up or missing undertray is crucial for cooling purposes. My old M was ripped up, my new (old) M has a deans bimmer alum tray.

my rad fan has also come on after normal driving and i dont recall hearing it very often with either cars.





not worried, but just odd to me... or should i be worried? lol
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      02-21-2021, 10:16 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyuhh View Post

not worried, but just odd to me... or should i be worried? lol
S65 is a race engine tuned for street, designed to run 120C+ at optimum.
Keep the revs high or you will blow the motor by stressing it with high load i.e. excessive throttle cruising in 6th gear.

It could also be a sign of main bearing wear, where you will see oil temp climbing very fast before it blows the motor, but it is more likely that radiator/oil cooler needs good cleaning.
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