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      04-09-2024, 12:09 AM   #1
LMBE92
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Infamous Post Liquimoly Oil Change Tick

As the title suggests I recently performed my second oil change since owning the car. The first oil change was done at EAS when the rod bearings were replaced, and they used Castrol. The second oil change was performed by myself, switching from Castrol to Liquimoly. (10W60 if it wasn't already assumed). After completing the oil change and inspecting the filter I noticed a small amount of metal bits (shavings? - not sure how to classify them) in between some of the filter fins. I'm not overly concerned, but am also wondering what it could possibly be. Possibly related possibly not, and to bring this post back to the main topic I noticed an intermittent ticking sound after driving my car roughly 50 miles this weekend on a spirited canyon drive. The car has now only done about 100 miles or so after the oil change, and I am hearing that same sound that others have described in many threads.. usually after performing an oil change and more specifically changing to or using Liquimoly. Just like others have experienced, the sound is intermittent with no true rhythm, and it is best heard near or behind the driver's front wheel. Tomorrow I will post pictures of my filter from the last oil change, and if anyone can chime in on the ticking noise I'd love to hear some opinions.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1167323

Went through this whole thread last night if anyone wants to see some other examples/discussions.

Also, I want to be clear I am in no way shape or form trying to bring down Liquimoly, I love their products and the engine seems to run better than ever after the change, I'm simply curious and a little concerned as to what may or may not be happening to my engine.
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      04-09-2024, 11:44 AM   #2
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if you're concerned, do another oil change to make sure you flushed out any other metal shavings.

^ probably best to do that.

LiquidMoly isn't that great and compared to other equivalent oil.. it introduces the most engine noise lol

also factor in the colder than usual climate here in SoCal right now..

personal experience. no valve tick on these oils I've tried below:

Redline
Motul 300V
Amsoil
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      04-09-2024, 11:48 AM   #3
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Unfortunately the shop that did my bearings used liquimoly. I’ve used motul 8100 10w60 for my past 2 changes and it’s nice and quiet.
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      04-09-2024, 02:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMBE92 View Post
As the title suggests I recently performed my second oil change since owning the car. The first oil change was done at EAS when the rod bearings were replaced, and they used Castrol. The second oil change was performed by myself, switching from Castrol to Liquimoly. (10W60 if it wasn't already assumed). After completing the oil change and inspecting the filter I noticed a small amount of metal bits (shavings? - not sure how to classify them) in between some of the filter fins. I'm not overly concerned, but am also wondering what it could possibly be. Possibly related possibly not, and to bring this post back to the main topic I noticed an intermittent ticking sound after driving my car roughly 50 miles this weekend on a spirited canyon drive. The car has now only done about 100 miles or so after the oil change, and I am hearing that same sound that others have described in many threads.. usually after performing an oil change and more specifically changing to or using Liquimoly. Just like others have experienced, the sound is intermittent with no true rhythm, and it is best heard near or behind the driver's front wheel. Tomorrow I will post pictures of my filter from the last oil change, and if anyone can chime in on the ticking noise I'd love to hear some opinions.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1167323

Went through this whole thread last night if anyone wants to see some other examples/discussions.

Also, I want to be clear I am in no way shape or form trying to bring down Liquimoly, I love their products and the engine seems to run [...]
Were your previous bearings worn? Supposedly worn bearings can have pieces come out of things like the oil cooler later on, which could explain metal in your filter. I had zero metal in my filter after my bearings were changed, but my previous bearings also had very little wear.
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      04-09-2024, 04:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92Bean View Post
Unfortunately the shop that did my bearings used liquimoly. I’ve used motul 8100 10w60 for my past 2 changes and it’s nice and quiet.
you probably caught your RB job just in time tbh, if you still have shavings in your engine.. best to just flush it out completely with generic oil from autozone/advanceauto parts w.e.

could be excess still in the oil cooler.

then let it idle for a bit and then change your oil with your preferred brand.
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      04-09-2024, 04:52 PM   #6
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I don't get the hype for Liquimoly in the BMW world. It gets laughed at on BITOG. The shop that did my bearings wanted to use it. Had em switch to Redline 5W50 instead. Especially for Chicago winters, also since I did them during the coldest part of this winter lol.

If you're concerned about shavings I'd dump and replace with Castrol or Redline/Motul. Not worth taking the chance.
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      04-09-2024, 09:00 PM   #7
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Ditch that junk ass liquimoly. I used that garbage in my motorcycle years ago and hated the shifting feel. Needless to say, I drained the oil after 500 miles and switched to Motul 300V/ 7100, & Redline.

Last year I did 3 or 4 oil changes using liquimoly and would consistently burn through 2 quarts of oil during a 5000 mile period. Now using Motul 8100, and have to top up a quart of oil after 3.5K-4K miles.
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      04-09-2024, 09:51 PM   #8
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Throwing my 2 cents in: currently using, and like, Redline 10W60. No problems so far.
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      04-09-2024, 11:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
if you're concerned, do another oil change to make sure you flushed out any other metal shavings.

^ probably best to do that.

LiquidMoly isn't that great and compared to other equivalent oil.. it introduces the most engine noise lol

also factor in the colder than usual climate here in SoCal right now..

personal experience. no valve tick on these oils I've tried below:

Redline
Motul 300V
Amsoil
Excellent advice, purchased the Motul 8100 kit from FCP today. I will be changing the oil again this weekend. Went with the 8100 because I wanted to stick with the 10W60 although the 300V is looking enticing. Thank you for your reply!
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      04-09-2024, 11:22 PM   #10
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@E92Bean I purchased the Motul 8100 today and it should be here before the weekend. Looking forward to changing the oil with the Motul kit. I greatly appreciate your reply!
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      04-09-2024, 11:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e92dud View Post
Were your previous bearings worn? Supposedly worn bearings can have pieces come out of things like the oil cooler later on, which could explain metal in your filter. I had zero metal in my filter after my bearings were changed, but my previous bearings also had very little wear.
I'm going to post some pictures here at the bottom of the thread. This has motivated me to actually take a look at my bearings... I never really did I just assumed everything was okay. I don't think they're necessarily horrible as I've seen worse but I can see small amounts of copper starting to show. Overall I'd say pretty good for 140,000?
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      04-09-2024, 11:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a5m View Post
I don't get the hype for Liquimoly in the BMW world. It gets laughed at on BITOG. The shop that did my bearings wanted to use it. Had em switch to Redline 5W50 instead. Especially for Chicago winters, also since I did them during the coldest part of this winter lol.

If you're concerned about shavings I'd dump and replace with Castrol or Redline/Motul. Not worth taking the chance.
Coming to find this out as everyone seems to have the same opinion. Ordered the Motul 8100 today and looking forward to making the switch this weekend. Might try Redline next change depending on how the car likes the Motul
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      04-09-2024, 11:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GinTonic View Post
Ditch that junk ass liquimoly. I used that garbage in my motorcycle years ago and hated the shifting feel. Needless to say, I drained the oil after 500 miles and switched to Motul 300V/ 7100, & Redline.

Last year I did 3 or 4 oil changes using liquimoly and would consistently burn through 2 quarts of oil during a 5000 mile period. Now using Motul 8100, and have to top up a quart of oil after 3.5K-4K miles.
You sent this after I had ordered the Motul 8100 so this gives me some peace of mind. I'll let you know what I think, very much looking forward to changing the oil.
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      04-09-2024, 11:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeHawk7 View Post
Throwing my 2 cents in: currently using, and like, Redline 10W60. No problems so far.
You're the second person who's recommended Redline. I might give it a go next time around, I purchased the Motul 8100 today.
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      04-09-2024, 11:33 PM   #15
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After the rod bearings were replaced I never really took a good look at the old ones. At the time I basically just pulled one out and said ehh not too bad. But tonight I inspected each one pretty thoroughly and my opinion is for 140K they're not too bad as I've definitely seen worse, but in certain spots I can start to see slivers of copper and I'm definitely glad I had the originals replaced.
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      04-09-2024, 11:36 PM   #16
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I also took a better look inside the filter. The left bigger chunk seems to be valve cover coating to me. I'm not overly concerned about that however there are multiple examples within the filter fins that look very similar to the metal piece on the right. The oil filter is not filled with these flakes but it's definitely more than I'm comfortable with.
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      04-10-2024, 12:12 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMBE92 View Post
@E92Bean I purchased the Motul 8100 today and it should be here before the weekend. Looking forward to changing the oil with the Motul kit. I greatly appreciate your reply!
Nice, FCP kit is solid. I know many people experiment, but I don’t see myself trying any other oils.
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      04-10-2024, 12:34 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMBE92 View Post
I also took a better look inside the filter. The left bigger chunk seems to be valve cover coating to me. I'm not overly concerned about that however there are multiple examples within the filter fins that look very similar to the metal piece on the right. The oil filter is not filled with these flakes but it's definitely more than I'm comfortable with.
you can even go as far as disconnecting your oil cooler and drain it if you have the weekend to your self.
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      04-10-2024, 12:38 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GinTonic View Post
Ditch that junk ass liquimoly. I used that garbage in my motorcycle years ago and hated the shifting feel. Needless to say, I drained the oil after 500 miles and switched to Motul 300V/ 7100, & Redline.


Quote:

Last year I did 3 or 4 oil changes using liquimoly and would consistently burn through 2 quarts of oil during a 5000 mile period. Now using Motul 8100, and have to top up a quart of oil after 3.5K-4K miles.
Consuming that much oil sounds like an issue to fix.
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      04-10-2024, 12:52 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a5m View Post
I don't get the hype for Liquimoly in the BMW world. It gets laughed at on BITOG. The shop that did my bearings wanted to use it. Had em switch to Redline 5W50 instead. Especially for Chicago winters, also since I did them during the coldest part of this winter lol.

If you're concerned about shavings I'd dump and replace with Castrol or Redline/Motul. Not worth taking the chance.

The hype is that it's almost $50 cheaper than the next cheapest option per oil change. It's a good oil for the price, but no one is saying it's the best thing ever.

My oil change interval is every other track weekend or about 2500 miles and differential fluid every other year. With these low change intervals, I've had no issues or indications of oil consumption with LM's 10W60 or their differential fluid.
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