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      12-17-2018, 04:09 PM   #1
bmwlover0725
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Need to figure out how bad my bearings are

I've been waiting since summer in an effort to put off the inevitable. I'm not really dying to hear opinions since I'm assuming that they'll be bad news, but I need them. I'll start off this thread by saying that I'm an idiot. I reset my oil life monitor when I started getting warned that I was close or over (I forget which one) and forgot to actually do the oil change when the warning went away - genius, I know.

After hearing what sounded like rod knock, I decided to stop being stupid (too late) and changed my oil. The sound went away, but came back after about 150 miles. I parked it and because I travel weekly for work, I haven't used it since summer.

I went out today and hooked up my GoPro to the engine and started it. You'll hear the startup sound in the video below at around 15 seconds. If you move to 4:40 (while wondering why in the world I'd keep it going for this long), you'll hear a small rev up to 2.5-3k where the knocking comes back. It's fine at idle, but every few seconds you hear a small click.

One thing to note is that I also had 271A for VANOS control, intake bank 1. Not sure if this is of any help.

I've done some research on here and other places, but I wanted to have an individual thread for my own issue.

My questions are as follows:

-Have a potentially spun a bearing? I'm assuming yes.

-What is the average amount of labor hours and what is BMW charging these days for labor on average?

-I know that it can't be determined exactly, but what are the odds that I've caused crank damage?


I appreciate any input here. I know that I'm incredibly dumb for this so I can appreciate anyone who wants to laugh at me, but please no insults if you wouldn't mindI don't have time to do a job like this myself anymore so my main concern is what am I going to have to pay roughly aside from parts which I already have an idea of. I've owned this car for a while. It's a 2008 with 162k which I could probably just trade in given that nobody in a dealership would even hear the sound in person, but I've developed a ridiculous sentimental attachment to it and would love to keep it if possible.

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      12-17-2018, 04:23 PM   #2
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When you changed the oil after you initially heard the knock did you find any metal shavings in the filter or oil? If you didn't notice, go out to the car and pull the filter and check to see if you see any shavings. Use a flashlight and pull the fins apart. The shavings will be obvious, it'll look like specks of gold. My friend that blew his motor recently had a lot of metal shavings in the filter when we checked
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      12-17-2018, 04:46 PM   #3
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You could rush and try to trade in but it could blow up on test drive/inspection not to mention you posted about it so not good. Stop driving and revving your car at this point. Tow to a local reputable indy shop. Dont deal with a dealer. A replacement core motor is roughly 20k installed by an Indy shop, and its really hard to find an undamaged core these days because of this very issue. BMW will charge you 30k I suspect.

Spazzyfry123's motor is in good shape but the body got damaged so his car is selling at auction. Your best bet in my opinion is to buy a car like his and swap engines. You might get a good deal on the auction and lower that replacement cost if you want to keep the car. And in this situation you would be able to have a full history on the motor since hes a member here. That is unusual unless it comes up on the forum.

https://www.copart.com/lot/44614988
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Last edited by Mvy; 12-17-2018 at 04:53 PM..
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      12-17-2018, 05:16 PM   #4
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I've seen one with rod knock once warm.

Crank was scored, rebuild was needed.
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      12-18-2018, 06:07 PM   #5
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I didn't notice any shavings when I initially changed it and I did check closely with a light, but I saved the oil. I'm not sure if it's too late now since it's been a few months, but I did save it in order to get a sample and a new drain pan was used when I did it. I need to order a blackstone kit. I'll update once I find out more.
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      12-18-2018, 06:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwlover0725 View Post
I didn't notice any shavings when I initially changed it and I did check closely with a light, but I saved the oil. I'm not sure if it's too late now since it's been a few months, but I did save it in order to get a sample and a new drain pan was used when I did it. I need to order a blackstone kit. I'll update once I find out more.
I almost commented yesterday with a joke about you trying to make a $20,000 YouTube video but I stopped because it's not funny and I'd be in a shit place if my car was making that noise and not in the mood for people's nonsense.

What you need to do is stop speculating, forget a blackstone analysis, it's not going to tell you what's actually wrong, it's not a crystal ball. Call a reputable Indy shop, make an appointment, and have your car dropped off there by a flat bed.

Do not start your car again. I'd even bring the video with you to the shop in hopes the shop won't need to start the car. If the engine is salvageable, every second that thing is running you're taking a chance of swinging the bill $10,000-$15,000 in your shop's favor.
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      12-18-2018, 07:39 PM   #7
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Am I reading that right? You had 162,000 miles on motor with the original rod bearings?
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      12-19-2018, 08:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvrider1 View Post
Am I reading that right? You had 162,000 miles on motor with the original rod bearings?
It's not uncommon. The engines that last that long were the ones built on the looser end of the tolerance spectrum. But it sounds like the bearing failure demons still caught up to the OP.

This is guaranteed: If you hear knock, the crank is already toast. The more you run it the more likely you'll ruin the block too...And then you're really done. At this point from a financial standpoint you'll be better off with a replacement used engine. The chassis value won't support forking out big dollars for a new/rebuilt engine. You should do the RB service to the replacement motor before installing, don't make the same mistake twice. The VANOS code is likely due to bearing debris having made its way into that system and blocking its operation. Common for engines with failed bearings.

I would take it to an M3 specialist. Probably will need to have them drop the pan- it's the only way to verify.
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      12-19-2018, 09:15 AM   #9
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Thank you everyone for the advice. As I said, jokes are welcome! I genuinely appreciate everyone's help with this though. I'll have to get it to a specialist. I might not have time to get this done for a little while, but I will keep this thread updated as more information comes my way. My biggest concern of having anyone else start the car at this point is throwing a rod which would really screw me.
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      12-19-2018, 10:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwlover0725 View Post
My biggest concern of having anyone else start the car at this point is throwing a rod which would really screw me.
Disconnect the battery, put the keys in a lockbox/safe.
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      12-19-2018, 11:16 AM   #11
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I can hear your rod knock . To avoid further damage , don't push your start button again !!!
How bad it is ? It's too late and game over !
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      03-05-2019, 10:10 AM   #12
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Well I have it in the shop now. We'll find out soon.
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      03-05-2019, 11:34 AM   #13
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I'm so sorry to hear this

I highly doubt it has anything to do with not changing your oil one time. These bearings are known to fail on these engines and this is vital preventative maintenance
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      03-05-2019, 12:10 PM   #14
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Don't know if this helps but.. this folk also heard ticking noise from the engine, changed the rod bearings ASAP, the crank was luckily not damaged.



Can't say anymore though. if VANOS is toast from particles, I imagine the issue is on the more serious side.
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      03-06-2019, 06:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwlover0725 View Post
Well I have it in the shop now. We'll find out soon.
Any updates about your situation ?
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      03-06-2019, 08:24 PM   #16
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Interested to see what the shop says.

Last edited by bvrider1; 03-06-2019 at 08:25 PM.. Reason: edit....
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      03-06-2019, 09:42 PM   #17
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Sounds horrible when revving
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      03-07-2019, 09:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwlover0725 View Post
Well I have it in the shop now. We'll find out soon.
Any updates about your situation ?
You probably wont hear back because the car got "stolen" and "torched". Ya know, insurance stuff.
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      03-15-2019, 02:40 PM   #19
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Update:

Went in this morning to see everything. No hot spots or anything like that, but the rods were still connected.


This afternoon: The shop called and wants me to meet with the tech and service manager on Monday to form a "game plan" now that everything is apart.

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      03-16-2019, 09:49 AM   #20
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They didn't take the rod apart before calling you? Seems like a natural next step regardless, now when the sump is off?

Good luck man!
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      03-16-2019, 04:16 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwlover0725 View Post
Update:

Went in this morning to see everything. No hot spots or anything like that, but the rods were still connected.


This afternoon: The shop called and wants me to meet with the tech and service manager on Monday to form a "game plan" now that everything is apart.

What was the verdict? I think inquiring minds want to know.
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      03-18-2019, 10:59 AM   #22
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What was the verdict? I think inquiring minds want to know.
I'm pretty furious now. I told them before they agreed to do the work that if there was slight damage but not awful, that I'd have them toss in new bearings and deal with it myself (don't ask). They said that was fine. They've removed everything, found one spun bearing which magically caused no damage to the crank, but they also found another bearing that did have some scoring on about one quarter of it's surface on the journal.

I told them to throw in the new bearings regardless and now they're going back on their original word and saying they don't want to. So I'm stuck with my car sitting on a lift trying to figure out how to fight this battle.

I understand that everyone here will say that the repair wont last (which I agree with). The reason I'd be doing this is because I almost NEVER and I mean really never drive this thing due to the fact that I fly for work every week and ride in my wife's X3 on the weekends with our daughter. The car is lucky to get 1K in miles per year at this point.
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