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09-11-2018, 02:19 PM | #309 | |
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The BE-ARP spec is specifically designed to solve the issues with the regular ARP bolts and cap deformation. This issue was identified in M3F on the S54 a long time ago and the issues persist in the S65 The BE-ARP bolt does not deform the cap regardless of which bearing you use, whether it's BE or OEM/WPC, etc |
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09-11-2018, 02:33 PM | #310 | |
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The torque value for at least the BE ARP bolts was not arrived at arbitrarily. There was testing involved and many measurements taken to find a torque number that gave the most circular rod bore. So, we use calibrated torque wrenches and proceed as directed in faith, with BE's warranty as security. |
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10-17-2018, 12:23 AM | #311 | |
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Failure?
Hi SYT_Shadow,
could you say more about the failure after the job? At the end of the 2nd post you have an update about a failure due to improper installation!? I looked through all the posts in this thread from that date and didn't see anything further on that failure. Are you able to elaborate on it? Was it minor failure that simply needed the bearings to be properly reseated? Or did it destroy the engine? I'm a keen DIYer, but had been hesitant to do this one because I've heard of a few cars that still experience engine destroying failures even after getting their rod bearings replaced. -This is one of those jobs you just don't want to get wrong. But then I found and read through your whole DIY, really liking it and getting the confidence to tackle this myself - then I saw that update and I feel like I'm back at square one. -Simeon Quote:
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10-17-2018, 07:11 AM | #312 | |
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Someone had theirs installed incorrectly and blew their engine. There have been a few thousand sales of increased clearance bearings and how many failures are there to show for it? One should be careful when having shops who don't know what they're doing disassemble their engine |
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10-19-2018, 06:56 PM | #313 | |
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-Since my question to you, I've been reading more, and I will go ahead and do the job myself. I'm a reasonably experienced DIYer, this job seems fairly straightforward. -Especially thanks to all the detail you've put up, noting the care points. -Simeon |
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10-19-2018, 06:59 PM | #314 | |
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10-19-2018, 07:25 PM | #315 |
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Thanks man. Appreciate it.
Building a home garage at the moment. I'm trying to decide how to allocate budget. Tossing up whether to spring for a car hoist, but sacrifice elsewhere. Or do I just get some 6-ton truck jacks and and go through the pain-in-the-arse process of getting the car up onto them... -Simeon |
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10-19-2018, 07:30 PM | #316 | |
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10-22-2018, 07:56 AM | #317 |
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10-22-2018, 08:55 AM | #318 |
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If quickjack is $1200, maxjax is $1800, Greg Smith 2 post is $1800, and a 4 post is $2400, which do you choose among these inexpensive lift options (you can spend more — $6k on a fancy 2 or 4 post)?
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10-22-2018, 09:08 AM | #319 |
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I have such fond memories of my Max Jax... but in the new house it doesn't fit, so I went with the QuickJack.
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10-22-2018, 09:12 AM | #320 | |
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If you don't have the ceiling height, get the maxjax or quickjack based on what you think will be best for your needs. The maxjax requires drilling, the quikjack doesn't, but the maxjax does rise higher and provides more access beneath the car. |
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10-22-2018, 09:56 AM | #321 |
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Another consideration with the Quickjack is that it's portable. The entire system will fit in your trunk if you lower the rear seats and slide the front passenger seat forward. Granted, it's not how you might normally use a jack like this, but it's nice to have the option to take it with you or loan it out to friends.
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10-23-2018, 12:33 PM | #322 | |
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Thanks! |
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10-23-2018, 01:15 PM | #323 |
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I have an F15, and the pad spread at the furthest point is 67". The max EXT spread is 66" per the spec, but in actuality with the lift pads in place, it's a touch over 65", so there's about an inch of overhang. I just line it up so the overhang is even front and back and it works fine. I'm going to make some custom lift pads when I get around to it so the lift pads fully cover the jack pads. It's not unstable or anything the way it is, but I'll feel better knowing it's perfect.
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10-24-2018, 12:23 PM | #324 | |
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Thanks again, John |
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01-02-2019, 06:31 PM | #325 |
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hello
Compeleted the rod bearing replacement on my m3 with your diy just have on remaining question. Did u unplug injectors or fuel pu p prior to starting the car to get oil in system. I finished two days ago and I am trying to find out some more info prior to cranking for first time. My buddy is telling there is a procedure to start any help would. E great |
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01-02-2019, 06:36 PM | #326 | |
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As soon as the oil pump can pump (i.e when the engine is on) it will build pressure. Until then it's best to allow the assembly lube or engine oil you used to lube do its job. Removing the fuel pump fuse meant the engine cold cranked over and over again without starting and without building oil pressure. Last edited by SYT_Shadow; 01-03-2019 at 06:53 AM.. |
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01-03-2019, 06:55 AM | #327 | |
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01-03-2019, 06:56 AM | #328 | |
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I've done 7 S65s and only on the first one did I remove the fuse... what a mistake. Never again. |
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01-03-2019, 07:12 AM | #329 | |
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Disconnecting the fuel pump fuse causes a mess of issues and faults with the DME. |
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01-03-2019, 09:14 AM | #330 | |
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