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10-10-2017, 01:28 PM | #1 |
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S65 Primary Cat delete - need opinions
Which tune are you guys running when deleting the primary cat ? Are you guys able to pass emission with the Tune ?
Also which DTC Tune do you guys have |
10-10-2017, 07:11 PM | #3 |
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10-10-2017, 07:16 PM | #4 |
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For some reason, my car doesn't like theirs or any other DCT tune. So I don't run one. But, I do run their ECU tune and it's a must if you've deleted 2 or more cats. Your car will feel much better after the tune.
Thanks for the compliments on the car. |
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10-10-2017, 10:50 PM | #5 |
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At first I had no tune and used an Akra Delete-R for the emissions CEL. Now am running Epic tune (Randy Miller's).
GTS DCT software. In Florida, so no smog control here. |
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10-16-2017, 08:07 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
You have a couple of options. - there are some good SIMs out there now With SIMs you leave the O2 monitoring ON in the tune and you're good to go. (I'm going to test this method myself, I'll post the brand of SIM only after I know it works) - get the O2 monitoring disabled in the tune. But when it comes time for E-test, you need to reload the original tune and put the primary CATs back. Then do a drive cycle to get readiness enabled. Fabspeed also has some mini-CATs that screw into an O2 bung hole but I don't know how effective they are. I would think they are best suited to getting a better reading when using Hi-flow CATs.... .....not sure
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11-15-2017, 09:21 AM | #8 |
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I have all cats deleted , just 2 resonators & performance mufflers , no drone, more hp! the smell is terrible. i believe there's many emission solutions.
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2008 BMW E93 6MT, Ess VT2 625 |
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11-16-2017, 03:07 PM | #9 |
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Drives: G30 M550i
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dinan midpipe, fully catless w/4 resonators and a dinan tune. paired with a dinan axleback the car sounds glorious when on power but has zero drone and is pretty tame during regular driving. the smell reminds me of mother russia and my grandad's (RIP) lada
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11-16-2017, 10:21 PM | #10 |
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Any you pass emissions no problem with their tune ?
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11-17-2017, 09:38 AM | #11 |
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02-13-2018, 08:03 AM | #12 |
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I have a Euro-charge Tune and a primary cat delete and recently passed the e-test.
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04-10-2020, 06:09 AM | #13 |
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Primary Cat down pipe self delete
This is just the primary cat delete I didn't delete my secondary!!!!! I just replace both my turbo on my 2008 335xi N54 and decided to delete the primary cats myself before re-installing the stock down pipes back on. Look guys replacing your stock turbos isn't so bad like what other people say. I have an XI and did not have to lower or remove my subframe at all. I didn't even remove my tires or any steering pinions or wheel control. Every thing that was hooked up to my front passenger side tire remain from start to finish. Now the only thing I did differently from every one is I cut off the rear flat metal in the back of the subframe that is right underneath the two front catylic converter pipe so I can pull them off without removing the subframe. I decide to save time and since I have a welder I simply spot weld it back. I only cut out about 9" worth of flat piece of metal that is there for nothing any ways. Instead of buying aftermarket down pipes that is useless and unnecessary I decided to gut all the Cats components and keep the stock look but without the signs of cats missing since I live in California. The entire process took me about 7 mins to gut both primary cats with the following tools and I'm not exaggerating one bit. 1) cordless drill with 1/2" slots minimum to hold my long standard wood drill bit (see photos). My drill bit is 12 inches long because I happen to own this one but a shorter one like 10 inches or a standard 6!inch wood drill spade bit from Home Depot or harbor freight will work as long as you have some kind of adapter to extend it. 2) a hammer. 3) and extra pipe to shove in after drilling. NOTE: There is NO NEED to cut and weld any of these stock down pipe catylic converter to remove the honey comb at all!!!!! It so simple. Now if you happen to own a short drill bit and have to extend it to another drill bit sleeve and duct tape it together it will also work, and don't worry if the drill bit get stuck and come apart into the muffler because the honey come is like foam and it will break easily to remove the bit. What will also work if you don't have a drill bit long enough a standard car jack crow bar with a sharp end to remove your tire lug nut will work as well but it might take longer then 7 min to do both. 1st. I drill through the end of the stock cat that I can see the honey comb and done it this way with each stock cats. 2nd. Drill many different holes through breaking the honey comb and turn each pipe over to dump out the broken internal pieces. 3rd. I then use the hammer to bang each outer side of the round part of where I drill knocking the inside loose and breaking the side glue. 4th. And that's it repeat with the other cat and re-install the O2 sensors. Whole process took me exactly 3 min with one cat and 4 min on the other. How and why??? Well because the first one will take 4 min longer then the 2nd one....why? Because once you get the hang of doing the first one the second one is easier and don't be afraid to bang hard on the outside part of the catt because you won't hurt it or break it. I bang the chit of mine and put a few scratches and dents but it's a stock down pipe it's fugly and hideous as is. Lastly I don't understand how people can reply to other posting about check engine light coming on or no power gain and so on so on if they haven't done it themselves. After I install it back and start the car here's the end result. 1) the sound of the muffler is awesome like a tuned car with after market muffler but using my stock down pipe. 2) non of my check engine light for O2 sensor came on (at least not yet going on a week now) 3) I definitely feel more torque and more response from the turbo soon as I floor the pedal it definitely boost faster then before. 4) regrading any more horse power I'd have to say yes I gain more power from it. How many???? I don't know maybe 1 horse power more maybe 15 or 30 but I doesn't matter to me because if I gain 1 HP that's more then what I had before and the 2nd reason why I didn't care if I gain more then 1 or 30 horse power is the sound is GOOOOOOOOD, and the response from the turbo is INSTANT!!!! 5) I remove my stock air filter and order a cheapie $25 cones air filters from eBay and I define hear the turbo hiss from that and I love it. Any ways this is what my end results are and so I can't speak for others since I did mine and this is what I got maybe some people do get the check engine lights but again all cars are not the same some cars DME might be set differently with other options turned on when mine isn't....it's like one buys a f150 and it last that person 20 years when the next guy buys the same kind of f150 and it breaks down 6 months later. It's the bad batch of cat that person happens to buy!!! Sooooo any post or comment that says none of what I did can't be good or done or will make your car go into limp mode is FULL of Ccchhhhiiit since they haven't done it they shouldn't discourage people with what they ThOUGHT!!!! So guys if you want to save money from ridiculous stainless steel down pipe that looks shiny and fancy by crawling under the car to appreciate it then this is the way to go. I mean what better way to guarantee your bolt pattern will fit perfectly or if or O2 sensor are going to fit back in right then to use your stock parts that was engineered by the BMW factory themselves. As far as how long it took for me to replace my own turbos well that took me 12 hours from start to finish since I have to crawl under neath my car like 200 times for smoke break and cursing break from busting my fingers and hands. In the end it was all worth it. And I didn't buy new turbos or rebuild my old one I simply bought two used complete turbo off eBay for $275 for both, I checked the blades for play or rattling before installing it. The turbo I bought off eBay were from a car that gotten into a wreck and I don't care if it breaks down in a week or month because now I know how to replace my turbo the way I did before and knowing it wasn't so bad or too hard I'd do it again if I had to next week but thats just me since I'm the owner of the car and need to be the one working on it any ways!!! I will guarantee every one that my BMW 335xi will be breaking down real soon....again....and I will be fixing more crap on it like every car out there. What I'm saying is buying new parts or used parts is all the same it's when things break if the person know how to fix it makes a difference. If some one told me it's a high risk Im taking for installing used turbos instead of new one my question back would be "What about my engine? Shouldn't I replace the engine with new since you recommend me to buy brand new turbo instead of used?"
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