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      05-04-2019, 05:30 AM   #1013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpewpew View Post
Confirmed it does lift via data. It's very short but it's there. During WOT through several gears
Doesn't it also manage engine torque output during shifts? I seem to recall that's part of the DME programming.
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      05-04-2019, 12:01 PM   #1014
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If anyone is interested I sold my car and I have a Dinan front bar with the endlinks modded so you can use them and I also have an M Performance v2 exhaust for sale. If interested let me know and we can go from there.

I also have various cosmetic bits and e92 M3 roof rack base bars with rack.


Exhaust and Bar are sold.
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      05-04-2019, 12:54 PM   #1015
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M performance exhaust for e90 or e92?
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      05-04-2019, 02:56 PM   #1016
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M performance exhaust for e90 or e92?
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      05-09-2019, 11:09 AM   #1017
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Thanks all for the feedback. One more dumb question: how low can you go on fuel in one of these before fuel starve becomes a concern?
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      05-09-2019, 03:31 PM   #1018
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My car went down to fumes on the Hoosiers. Or more accurately - I never fuel starved it despite autocrossing it with < 1 gallon remaining a couple times (that’s about when you get the three bars on the range)

But it’s an 08 I’ve no idea whether there’s a difference on the later cars though I doubt it very much
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      05-10-2019, 03:34 PM   #1019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
My car went down to fumes on the Hoosiers. Or more accurately - I never fuel starved it despite autocrossing it with < 1 gallon remaining a couple times (thatís about when you get the three bars on the range)

But itís an 08 Iíve no idea whether thereís a difference on the later cars though I doubt it very much
I've never encountered it either although I've never gone much below 1/8'th by the end of a session. Having watched you in your AS Hoho days, I can't imagine anyone who challenged fuel starve more since we are on ***** *****.
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      05-15-2019, 02:11 PM   #1020
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Well I installed the Bilstein B6 EDC rears this past weekend, and have scored a pair of the fronts which are on a back order. The rear OE units were pretty easy to compress. The Bilsteins have much more pressure and ride really nice while retaining the EDC functionality. I am conceding the car will sit just a bit higher all around but am willing to accept this for higher functioning units. I suppose only time will tell.
Any updates on how the Bilsteins are working? I'm not looking for new shocks, but I'm not not looking for new shocks either.
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      05-15-2019, 04:19 PM   #1021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PedalFaster View Post
Any updates on how the Bilsteins are working? I'm not looking for new shocks, but I'm not not looking for new shocks either.
I felt the Bilstein B6 EDC fronts were a bit too high pressure for our application and raised the front up at least 2" higher than worn ZCP OEM EDC struts, and probably .8-1" higher than fresh OEM struts, which I felt was less than optimal for our use because they were a just too firm and because of the loss of camber. They have been sold and sent out with new OEM ZCP EDC struts which went in. My old set is at best compromised as are the lower control arms and thrust arms, all of which are being refreshed.

I kept the rear Bilstein B6 EDC units rather than then taking them off. The OEM rears were very shot, and I was left to only conclude the Bilsteins are better.

That said, my new alignment specs have been a bit of a disappointment as I dialed out much of the rear toe in and the car dances a wee bit too much to be confident with the go peddle. Got my butt handed to me by Cashmore this weekend. Kudos to him -- not so much to me. Once everything is in, I'll get it re-aligned and get back into the fray.
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      05-15-2019, 04:39 PM   #1022
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That's disappointing. I had a very similar experience on my E46 M3 -- installed Bilstein HDs on all four corners, found the amount they lifted the front of the car unacceptable, and replaced the fronts with Konis while keeping the rears on the car.
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      05-15-2019, 08:22 PM   #1023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PedalFaster View Post
That's disappointing. I had a very similar experience on my E46 M3 -- installed Bilstein HDs on all four corners, found the amount they lifted the front of the car unacceptable, and replaced the fronts with Konis while keeping the rears on the car.
Regular street ride handling characteristics were pretty nice. On lowering springs, I could really see where they would work but we can't use lowering springs, so such as it is.
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      05-20-2019, 12:06 PM   #1024
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Here are my runs from this weekend. It was great to meet some of you guys.

Made some mistakes on my fast run on day 1, pushing wide in a few of the 90 degree corners, but my time ended up being okay. I drove much better on day 2.

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      05-21-2019, 09:07 AM   #1025
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Looked like a fun course. I like how you turn in early. I can't seem to master that
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      05-23-2019, 01:23 PM   #1026
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[QUOTE=sgreer78;24743716]If anyone is interested I sold my car and I have a Dinan front bar with the endlinks modded ...QUOTE]


So I'm tired of trying to trouble shoot the front end clunk I get in one-wheel bump/roll. Endlinks and pivots are tight, and no signs of contact.

I have the Dinan front bar on half-stiff and un-modded end links shortened as far as they go.

Is the consensus that the Dinan endlinks clunk unless you cut a 1/2" off and drill/tap them if you're trying to use the half-stiff to full-stiff range on the bar? If you're buying new endlinks, is the Bimmerworld 11-12.5" length correct?
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      05-23-2019, 03:59 PM   #1027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Type_Yarr View Post
So I'm tired of trying to trouble shoot the front end clunk I get in one-wheel bump/roll. Endlinks and pivots are tight, and no signs of contact.

I have the Dinan front bar on half-stiff and un-modded end links shortened as far as they go.

Is the consensus that the Dinan endlinks clunk unless you cut a 1/2" off and drill/tap them if you're trying to use the half-stiff to full-stiff range on the bar? If you're buying new endlinks, is the Bimmerworld 11-12.5" length correct?
Are you sure your endlink bolts are completely tight, and were tightened with the bar unloaded?

My Dinan endlinks seem to get loose after a few events and will start to clunk from having a little bit of play. So every once in a while I get the car on ramps and make sure the nut where the endlink connects into the bar is very tight. Doing this with the car uneven or with the sway bar loaded, like if the car is just up on a jack stand, doesn't work.
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      05-23-2019, 04:38 PM   #1028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommysalami View Post
Are you sure your endlink bolts are completely tight, and were tightened with the bar unloaded?

My Dinan endlinks seem to get loose after a few events and will start to clunk from having a little bit of play. So every once in a while I get the car on ramps and make sure the nut where the endlink connects into the bar is very tight. Doing this with the car uneven or with the sway bar loaded, like if the car is just up on a jack stand, doesn't work.
Yeah I noticed that happened when I first installed the bar. The jam nuts loosened off after the first event I ran with it. Initially, it stopped clunking after I cranked them down, but it's gotten progressively worse over the past year. The jam nuts are still tight, but the clunk is much more noticeable than before. I don't have ramps so I haven't checked with the front suspension loaded since last fall, the best I've done lately is to have both front wheels off the ground with the struts at full extension.

I've seen a few people mention the endlink length as being an issue from Dinan, so before I move onto my next steps I was hoping someone could confirm if shortening the endlinks has helped.

Next steps:
Option 1: Leave Dinan endlinks unmodified, but completely disassemble, inspect and reinstall with zero preload. No compliance currently when fully installed, but potential for preload. Order new ball joint ends from Dinan if required.

Option 2: Take Dinan endlinks to machine shop to shorten by 1/2".

Option 3: Order Bimmerworld 11-12.5" endlinks. (I would prefer the booted/greased Dinan/OEM ball joint ends for a street car over the spherical rod ends, but whatever works...)
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      05-23-2019, 04:50 PM   #1029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Type_Yarr View Post

Is the consensus that the Dinan endlinks clunk unless you cut a 1/2" off and drill/tap them if you're trying to use the half-stiff to full-stiff range on the bar? If you're buying new endlinks, is the Bimmerworld 11-12.5" length correct?
Yes, the standard Bimmerworld adjustable end links work well with the Dinan bar.
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      05-24-2019, 07:24 AM   #1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Type_Yarr View Post
Yeah I noticed that happened when I first installed the bar. The jam nuts loosened off after the first event I ran with it. Initially, it stopped clunking after I cranked them down, but it's gotten progressively worse over the past year. The jam nuts are still tight, but the clunk is much more noticeable than before. I don't have ramps so I haven't checked with the front suspension loaded since last fall, the best I've done lately is to have both front wheels off the ground with the struts at full extension.

I've seen a few people mention the endlink length as being an issue from Dinan, so before I move onto my next steps I was hoping someone could confirm if shortening the endlinks has helped.

Next steps:
Option 1: Leave Dinan endlinks unmodified, but completely disassemble, inspect and reinstall with zero preload. No compliance currently when fully installed, but potential for preload. Order new ball joint ends from Dinan if required.

Option 2: Take Dinan endlinks to machine shop to shorten by 1/2".

Option 3: Order Bimmerworld 11-12.5" endlinks. (I would prefer the booted/greased Dinan/OEM ball joint ends for a street car over the spherical rod ends, but whatever works...)
I have ramps made out of 2x8 wood from the hardware store. it's worth a try, and you can use them for other stuff too. though on my car there also isn't much preload with both front wheels jacked up so i dunno. for what it's worth my endlinks are brand new so we're probably talking about a different clunk
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      05-24-2019, 11:06 AM   #1031
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^Thanks for the idea. I have a bunch of leftover lumber that will have a use now.

So I removed the endlinks and it turns out both ball joints on the bottom side are on their way out. There was just enough preload, or the bar shifted enough, to take out the slack when they were mounted.

I measured the Dinan endlink lengths at 13.3", which is pretty much as short as they go. I'm going to order those standard length 12-13.5" Bimmerworld ones and try going a little bit shorter. Also going to shorten and refurb the Dinan ones so I can easily swap sets the next time around.

Thanks everyone for the help.
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      05-25-2019, 05:58 PM   #1032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Type_Yarr View Post
^Thanks for the idea. I have a bunch of leftover lumber that will have a use now.

So I removed the endlinks and it turns out both ball joints on the bottom side are on their way out. There was just enough preload, or the bar shifted enough, to take out the slack when they were mounted.

I measured the Dinan endlink lengths at 13.3", which is pretty much as short as they go. I'm going to order those standard length 12-13.5" Bimmerworld ones and try going a little bit shorter. Also going to shorten and refurb the Dinan ones so I can easily swap sets the next time around.

Thanks everyone for the help.
I'm now using these and they seem fine.
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      05-26-2019, 11:59 PM   #1033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSBM5 View Post
Doesn't it also manage engine torque output during shifts? I seem to recall that's part of the DME programming.
Had my first-ever event in my DCT M3. In the morning session, I was just driving off of the line with no wheelspin, and during the 1-2 shift, there was a very long delay during which time the car was not accelerating. I tried turning the shift speed up to maximum, but the delay was still there.

In the afternoon session, I started pushing the gas pedal into the detent to trigger wheelspin off the line, and didn't notice as much (or any?) delay during the 1-2 shift. Not sure if the two are related, though.
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      05-28-2019, 11:26 AM   #1034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PedalFaster View Post
Had my first-ever event in my DCT M3. In the morning session, I was just driving off of the line with no wheelspin, and during the 1-2 shift, there was a very long delay during which time the car was not accelerating. I tried turning the shift speed up to maximum, but the delay was still there.

In the afternoon session, I started pushing the gas pedal into the detent to trigger wheelspin off the line, and didn't notice as much (or any?) delay during the 1-2 shift. Not sure if the two are related, though.
I never had that issue, in fact if I didn't turn the shift level down the 1-2 would turn me around if any steering lock was there. What's your shift setting and are you just letting the car shift itself? It's not a PDK, so I wouldn't rely on it to work well that way.
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