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10-30-2017, 11:50 PM | #26 | |
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BTW...when I drained the redline DCTF after 1200 miles, it came out pretty much the same color new.
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10-31-2017, 05:48 PM | #27 | |
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No, not really. They don't break down over time, but they do get contaminated. I think 5-6 years is probably the longest I would go for a DCT in a performance car.
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05-03-2018, 02:11 PM | #28 |
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Resurrecting an old thread here. Has anybody used the Liqui-Moly 8100 DCT fluid? The shop I use pushes Liqui-Moly for everything, and I'm trying to determine if I need to fight them on it.
Can't say I'm loving the OEM fluid at the moment. Getting occasional violent clunks like redpriest described, as well as longer-than-normal delays and roughness when shifting from R to D. 30k miles since my last change. |
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05-05-2018, 02:48 PM | #29 | |
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Just a hunch but maybe make sure it was filled properly. I've been running the Motul fluid with no issues which is the same fluid redpriest reported issues on. Several others reported no issues with Motul which leads me to believe it maybe fluid level related. No experience with Liquimoly dct fluid.
Additionally, have you had the GTS gearbox flash done? Thats clears up some of the jerkiness. Quote:
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05-06-2018, 05:50 PM | #30 | |
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I doubt that switching to that fluid will make much of a difference. If there is a mechanical issue in the transmission, fluids won't magically fix it. The LM fluid will work fine, but a 30k change interval seems really short. Pretty much everyone who has posted the UOAs for the M-DCT has shown that the fluid has plenty of life left even at 50k.
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06-14-2018, 03:55 PM | #32 |
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Anyone here ever used Ravenol DCT fluid? Their spec sheet mentions BMW-DCTF-1. A local parts dealer offered this stuff for $15/L when quoting me for a new pan and gasket. Sounds a lot better than $37/L for BMW fluid, but don't wanna save a few bucks and risk losing any lubricating qualities.
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06-14-2018, 04:35 PM | #33 | |
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I would give a nod towards the Motul fluid since it has viscosity nearly identical to the OEM fluid (within a few percent) but has a viscosity index 21 points higher. That points to it being a higher quality oil. Price is on-par with the other aftermarket fluids and it can be obtained from a lot of different suppliers. If you want the OEM fluid without the OEM price, just get Pentosin FFL4 since that is what DCTF-1 is. This fluid is the factory fill in VWs and Audis now, too. OEM DCTF-1 has the following specs, so if you're shopping around for other fluids, get the datasheets and verify they're similar: KV @ 40C = 34.7 KV @ 100C = 7 VI = 168 (this is rather low, many aftermarket choices are higher, which you want) Brookfield @ -40C = 7400
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06-14-2018, 04:48 PM | #34 |
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So is there a benefit in using any specific aftermarket oils? If a heavier oil is better for our DCTs, it would also have less potential to leak from the gaskets, correct?
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06-14-2018, 08:28 PM | #35 | |
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As I said above, an oil with a higher viscosity index will generally be a better choice -- much like it is with engine oils. The VI is an approximation of how the oil resists viscosity changes with temperature. Higher VI oils are generally blended from higher quality basestocks. Ultimately, I doubt that you or the car will know the difference between most of the commonly-available DCT oils. They are all extremely similar and the UOAs have shown that the M-DCT isn't destroying these fluids; even at 50k they have plenty of life left, which is way better than what a typical MTF will show at 50k. My message to you is that you should really just get whichever DCT fluid is cheapest and/or easiest to get, and if you have multiple oils that are cheap/easy, get one with a high VI. Hence...my recommendation of the Motul fluid.
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