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      09-06-2021, 05:27 PM   #1
bklynbred88
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Exclamation Battery not charging !!

Hi I'm new to the M3 community and made an account just to seek help for this particular issue. I've seen many posts on different solutions and I have almost exhausted out of all my options. To keep a long story short here's my issue.

Recently I have replaced a battery with a brand new one because the car would charge randomly. Some days the alternator would charge the battery at roughly 13.8v-14.2v while running. Other days the battery would not be charging and would stay at 11.8v-12.2v while running and eventually Christmas tree my dash and the car would shut off while driving or at a red light. This happened to me on 4 separate occasions and had left me stranded once. I'd have to get towed each time or a very strong jump.

Previous specs:
MTP-49/H8 Lead Acid
CCA 730 | CA 910 | RC 175 | Ah 100

Coded as AH 110 (not sure why)

Recommended specs:
H8 AGM
CCA 900 | Ah 90

Current specs:
H8-AGM
CCA 900 | Ah 95

I coded the battery from Ah 110 down to Ah 90 AGM using BimmerCode.
Registered the battery afterwards using BimmerLink.

After this sequence I started the car and read the voltage readout and it stayed roughly at 11.80 to 12.2 volts. I let the car sit for about 5 minutes and assumed the charging sequence has changed and it would take longer to kick in. However nothing has changed. The battery life charge drained to about 90% after 10 minutes of the car idling so I turned off the car.

Notes to consider: Alternator has been replaced already.
No codes. (yet?)

There are a lot of questionable details that may lead to the reason this is happening. If anyone wants to know the story I'll be glad to share. I have some theories but would like to hear from other people on how to properly take care of the problem.

Thanks in advance!

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      09-12-2021, 06:17 PM   #2
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Since you have the oldest 2008 E9X M3, the alternator, plus belts and pulleys could be causing this. Search BMW belts and pulleys on Youtube (Kies Motorsports). There are idler pulleys with bearings that wear and start to wobble and make noise. I would take the car to a BMW Indy Shop to troubleshoot and electrical issue. It could be a crappy aftermarket alternator....the alternator install/unit could be warrantied for 1-2 years.

Also double check the IBS sensor wire that runs to small light blue connectors on the negative battery terminal.

Disconnect the negative terminal first, then the positive. The large red electrical distribution bracket has 2 plugs that release...one blue and one black. Try to release them and then reconnect. That red bracket also comes apart...in two pieces. Try to take it apart and reconnect using the 3 nuts/bolts.

Since you were left stranded, it could also be the battery cable recall. The battery cable runs from the trunk to the fusebox under the glovebox. So you have to take the interior apart. The BMW dealership will probably not replace the entire battery cable...but cut it near the front seat and just solder it to replace the last 2 feet. The fuse box connector is defective, so it can kill the power to the engine.

The blower motor recall is also an area under the glovebox....the wiring starts to cook/brown and could start a fire in rear circumstances.

You can look up BMW Recalls for your VIN online.

Pick up a CTEK battery trickle charger and portable battery booster (super small now, since they use Lithium batteries).

BROOKLYN!!

Cheers
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      11-17-2021, 01:43 AM   #3
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Hello, I am having issues very similar to op. Following in hope of learning resolution.
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      11-17-2021, 06:51 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyc_dude View Post
Since you have the oldest 2008 E9X M3, the alternator, plus belts and pulleys could be causing this. Search BMW belts and pulleys on Youtube (Kies Motorsports). There are idler pulleys with bearings that wear and start to wobble and make noise. I would take the car to a BMW Indy Shop to troubleshoot and electrical issue. It could be a crappy aftermarket alternator....the alternator install/unit could be warrantied for 1-2 years.

Also double check the IBS sensor wire that runs to small light blue connectors on the negative battery terminal.

Disconnect the negative terminal first, then the positive. The large red electrical distribution bracket has 2 plugs that release...one blue and one black. Try to release them and then reconnect. That red bracket also comes apart...in two pieces. Try to take it apart and reconnect using the 3 nuts/bolts.

Since you were left stranded, it could also be the battery cable recall. The battery cable runs from the trunk to the fusebox under the glovebox. So you have to take the interior apart. The BMW dealership will probably not replace the entire battery cable...but cut it near the front seat and just solder it to replace the last 2 feet. The fuse box connector is defective, so it can kill the power to the engine.

The blower motor recall is also an area under the glovebox....the wiring starts to cook/brown and could start a fire in rear circumstances.

You can look up BMW Recalls for your VIN online.

Pick up a CTEK battery trickle charger and portable battery booster (super small now, since they use Lithium batteries).

BROOKLYN!!

Cheers
This ^ is great advice especially the IBS tip which is notorious for charging issues. Have the alternator output voltage and current carefully checked -> regardless of it being new. I think AutoZone or Advance Auto will check the alternator for free. The IBS connection, plastic connector and the smaller wires it uses might not be secure and well connected. The IBS sensor itself can also fail (it's cheap though). Good luck. Whenever it's parked keep it on a Battery Tender.
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      01-22-2022, 07:55 PM   #5
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[Follow-up]

Hello and happy new year!

I have a late but bittersweet update that may or may not help anyone experiencing the same/similar issue. Since the time of the post I've been tired of running around diagnosing the car so I did what I felt like I should have done in the first place. I took my car to my local BMW dealership and noted the self diagnosis that the battery is not charging and the alternator is damaged/weak. In response, BMW replaced my alternator and battery for OEM ones, coded and registered the new battery and the problem stopped. The job took a day to complete and about $2200 for the entire job and a 2 year warranty on the parts. Despite the cost, I had a piece of mind and a fun car to enjoy until the winter hit.

As far as the recalls go, I did have an open recall two months prior to my op. The recall was to replace a positive battery cable behind the fuse box that seemed to have the exact symptoms my car was experiencing. After the recall service, there was no difference to my problem. I still recommend checking the recall status of your own car and getting that resolved anyways. It won't be a hit to your pockets because it is free of charge!

Unrelated to the topic, less than 500 miles later I had a rod bearing spin.
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      01-23-2022, 08:14 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bklynbred88 View Post
[Follow-up]

Unrelated to the topic, less than 500 miles later I had a rod bearing spin.
Great update and everything was going so well until the end part.. Oh the joys of BMW ownership. So what do you plan to do with it now that a rod bearing has spun?
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      01-23-2022, 09:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bklynbred88 View Post
[Follow-up]

Hello and happy new year!

I have a late but bittersweet update that may or may not help anyone experiencing the same/similar issue. Since the time of the post I've been tired of running around diagnosing the car so I did what I felt like I should have done in the first place. I took my car to my local BMW dealership and noted the self diagnosis that the battery is not charging and the alternator is damaged/weak. In response, BMW replaced my alternator and battery for OEM ones, coded and registered the new battery and the problem stopped. The job took a day to complete and about $2200 for the entire job and a 2 year warranty on the parts. Despite the cost, I had a piece of mind and a fun car to enjoy until the winter hit.

As far as the recalls go, I did have an open recall two months prior to my op. The recall was to replace a positive battery cable behind the fuse box that seemed to have the exact symptoms my car was experiencing. After the recall service, there was no difference to my problem. I still recommend checking the recall status of your own car and getting that resolved anyways. It won't be a hit to your pockets because it is free of charge!

Unrelated to the topic, less than 500 miles later I had a rod bearing spin.
Bloody h...500 miles after invested $2200. Sincerely hope the engine can be saved. Keep us posted mate.
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