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01-10-2012, 07:57 AM | #27 | |
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+1 great investment for tire/pad swaps.
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01-10-2012, 10:58 AM | #28 | |
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01-10-2012, 11:08 AM | #29 |
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very cool, let us know if we can make a purchase
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01-10-2012, 11:16 AM | #30 |
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Skip the Craftsman stuff. I have two of their jacks and my friend has two of them as well. They leak and will prob fail eventually. I am looking for better alternatives myself.
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01-10-2012, 11:42 AM | #32 |
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Nice! Might be interested.
Just get the Harbor Freight jack...cost $60 with a coupon, has a saddle height of 3.5" and works fine. Just torque all of the bolts when you first get it. Otherwise they'll back out.
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01-10-2012, 12:35 PM | #34 |
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Where did you get this one?
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01-10-2012, 12:36 PM | #35 |
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01-10-2012, 12:40 PM | #36 |
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Id be interested depending on price and me being able to figure out how to get the jack under the car to that lift point.
I could pull up on some little ramps I guess and that would give me enough clearance. But def too tall for me to use even if I could get my jack under the front of my car. D |
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01-10-2012, 12:53 PM | #37 | |
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Quote:
http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo...Pad_Tools.html
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01-10-2012, 12:55 PM | #38 | |
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01-10-2012, 12:57 PM | #40 |
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You really need to two jacks to perform this or a ramp. I use one jack to lift a front corner and then I use the 2nd jack as pictured which gives me enough room/gap to operate the handle. I have the same Crapsman aluminum jack. It leaks as well.
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01-10-2012, 01:03 PM | #41 | |
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I have a cheap Craftsman jack. Doesn't leak no issues. If you're lowered, go to griotsgarage.com and buy one of the expensive ones that have a lower height. I don't use both jack points - I jack up at the front one and get enough height that the front and rear wheels are both off the ground, then I change them both. Really saves time, although I admit one should be a bit more careful this way. I always loosen front and rear wheel bolts BEFORE I jack up the car and only tighten them AFTER I lower it.
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01-10-2012, 01:13 PM | #42 |
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Almost have to wonder why the jack point is there in the first place if no one can get a jack under the nose of the car without having to use another jack on a front corner first
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01-10-2012, 01:23 PM | #43 |
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I have this jack + stands. I'm starting to wonder if I even need the adapter for the four plastic side jack points. Since my stands are not flat-top, I'm now wondering if that Reverse Logic adapter is even good for my stands.
I don't want to deform the plastic jack points, but I also don't want to risk the flat bottom of the adapter not fitting perfectly with my stands. |
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01-10-2012, 01:28 PM | #44 |
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I think the adaptors for the corners are a waste. Those rubber things cost about $25 ea IIRC and they do last as long as they don't fall off. So you spend~$100 to protect ~$100 part which is not essential nor hard to find. Plus I have my original pads on my 330...8 years and counting. I've put my car on jack stands probably 100 times.
Now...Disapr's pad adaptor does have value. Because messing up that aluminum front reinforcement ain't cheap and likely won't be in stock at some/most dealers. So its good insurance.
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